Planning a trip to Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone is more than photo ops and zoos where the animals roam free. It's not a museum, either, where magnificent scenery is merely on display. The park, unlike a picture hanging lifelessly on the wall of a museum, is a work-in-progress; a living, breathing wilderness area. Plant your feet in a comfortable pair of walking or hiking shoes, find a trailhead, and set off into the woods with a sack lunch and a big bottle of water. Better yet, if you can afford the time, plan an excursion around Shoshone Lake or to the south end of Yellowstone Lake by boat to areas few visitors ever see.

If you're more adventurous, take a white-water trip down Snake River Canyon, sleep under the stars and listen to the wolves howl at Slough Creek Campground, or backpack for a week on the Thorofare Trail.

You'll never plumb the absolute depths of this park -- no one ever will. You could spend your whole life trying, though, and have a wonderful and illuminating time doing it.

It's no one's idea of a fun vacation to end up inhaling exhaust behind a long line of cars waiting for a break in construction at Yellowstone's east entrance. Few things can do more to ruin a much-anticipated vacation than poor planning. So look over some of this crucial information before you hit the road -- it might make the difference between a trip you'll never forget and one you'd rather not remember.

Packing

Nothing will ruin a trip to the parks faster than sore or wet feet. Bring comfortable walking shoes, even if you plan to keep walking to a minimum. Bring shoes that are broken in, and if you plan to do some serious hiking, get sturdy boots that support your ankles and wick away water. Early in the season, trails might be wet or muddy; late in the fall, you can get snowed on. The more popular trails are sometimes also used by horses, which can make stream crossings a mucky mess.

Wear your clothing in layers, and bring a small, empty backpack or fanny pack so that you have somewhere to put the clothes as you take those layers off and on as temperature, altitude, and your level of physical exertion change. Cotton is a no-no in the backcountry; synthetic fabrics are recommended because they dry much faster. Gloves or mittens are useful before the park heats up, or in the evening when it cools down again, even in summer.

The atmosphere is thin at higher altitudes, so protect your skin. Bring a strong sunblock, a hat with a brim, and sunglasses. I also recommend bringing insect repellent, water bottles, and a first-aid kit.

Take into account that elevations at the parks are between 5,000 and 11,000 feet; in campgrounds and on hiking trails, you'll want clothing appropriate to the temperatures -- in summer, 40°F (4°C) in the evening, 75°F (24°C) during the day.

Planning a Backcountry Trip

Regulations

The theme in the backcountry is “leave no trace,” and that means packing out any garbage you take in, not taking pets, and avoiding leaving scars on the landscape by staying on designated trails and reusing existing campsites. Fires are allowed only in established fire rings, and only dead and downed material may be used for firewood; fires are prohibited in some areas, but backpacking stoves are allowed throughout the parks. You must have a park permit for overnight stays in the backcountry. There’s a complete list of do’s and don’ts in the Backcountry Trip Planner, available at most visitor centers. For more information on “leave no trace” ethics, see www.lnt.org.

Backpacking for Beginners

Be sure to wear comfortable, sturdy hiking shoes that will resist water if you’re planning an early-season hike; cotton socks are not a good idea because the material holds moisture, whereas wool and synthetics, such as fleece, wick it away from your body. Your sleeping bag should be rated for the low temperatures found at high elevations; if you bring a down bag, keep it dry or suffer the consequences. A lightweight sleeping pad is a must. An internal frame backpack with good padding, a lumbar support pad, and a wide hip belt helps ensure a comfortable trip. Be sure that you’ve tried out the pack and boots—wear them around the house!—before you take it on a long trip with heavy loads, so that you’ll have time to break them in.

Personal Safety Issues

It’s best not to backpack alone, but if you must, be sure that you have told park rangers and friends where you’ll be and how long you’ll be gone. Don’t leave the parking lot without the following gear: a compass, topographical maps, a first-aid kit, bug repellent, toilet paper, a headlamp, matches, a knife, food supplies, a bear-resistant food container if your campsite doesn’t have a bear pole, bear spray, as well as a tent, a stove, and a sleeping bag. At this altitude, sunscreen and sunglasses with UV protection are also wise. You’ll also need water treatment pills or a good water filter, because that seemingly clear stream could be filled with parasites that are likely to cause intestinal disorders. If you don’t have either, bring water to a boil before you drink it.

Jump to:

Getting Around

Road Openings & Closings

Traveling Yellowstone's roads during spring months can be a roll of the dice because openings can be delayed for days (sometimes weeks) at a time, especially at higher altitudes. There is always some section of road in Yellowstone under construction (projects for Dunraven Pass and the stretch between Madison and Norris being the current hot spots) -- so call ahead and get a road report (tel. 307/344-7381). It's irritating, but don't take it out on the road workers; they often labor through the night to cause as little inconvenience as possible.

The only road open year-round in the area is the north entrance to Mammoth Hot Springs. From Mammoth, a winter access road to the northeast entrance and Cooke City is plowed throughout the winter. This service for Cooke City residents gives visitors a great opportunity to watch wildlife in winter in the Lamar Valley. Just be watchful of the weather; the road is often slick with ice.

Snowplowing begins in early March. In Yellowstone, the first roads open to motor vehicles (usually by the end of Apr) include Mammoth-Norris, Norris-Canyon, Madison-Old Faithful, and West Yellowstone-Madison. If the weather cooperates, the east and south entrances, as well as roads on the east and south sides of the park, will open early in May. Opening of the road from Tower-Roosevelt to Canyon Junction, however, might be delayed by late-season snowfall on Dunraven Pass.

The Sunlight Basin Road (which is also called the Chief Joseph Highway), connecting the entrances in Cooke City, Montana, and Cody, Wyoming, often opens by early May. The Beartooth Highway, between Cooke City and Red Lodge, Montana, is generally open by Memorial Day weekend.

Winter road closures typically begin in mid-October, when the Beartooth Highway closes. Depending upon weather, most other park roads remain open until the park season ends on the first Sunday in November.

Winter Road Conditions -- Due to the high elevation and the abundance of snow, most roads in Yellowstone are closed to all wheeled vehicles in winter. The only major park area that is accessible by car is Mammoth Hot Springs; cars are allowed to drive in the village there. Signs will alert you as to how far south into the park you can go (usually to Tower Junction, 18 miles away). From Tower Junction, it's another 29 miles to the northeast entrance. This entrance is open but not accessible from Red Lodge, Montana, and points east (because the Beartooth Hwy. is closed in winter). You can go only as far as Cooke City, Montana, and the roads are kept open specifically so that the folks in Cooke City aren't stranded during the long winters. Snowmobiles, snowcoaches, and cross-country skiers, however, use park roads regularly throughout the winter season. For up-to-the-minute information on weather and road conditions, call tel. 307/344-7381.

Basing yourself in West Yellowstone is another option. From the West Yellowstone entrance, it's only 14 miles to Madison Junction, which presents opportunities to head south to Old Faithful or north to the Grand Canyon and Mammoth Hot Springs. Because this is the most popular way to access the park, plan on making reservations early.

Fast Facts

Area Codes: Yellowstone is almost entirely in Wyoming, with the area code 307. The park also extends slightly into Montana (area code 406) and Idaho (area code 208).

Doctors: In Yellowstone, the clinic at Mammoth Hot Springs (307/344-7965) is open year-round except some holidays. Lake Clinic (307/242-7241) and Old Faithful Clinic (307/545-7325) are open during the summer.

Drinking Laws: The legal age for the purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it’s always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn’t zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. Don’t even think about driving while intoxicated. Alcohol is widely available at stores in the park and in the gateway cities. Bars in Wyoming close at 2am.

Electricity: Like Canada, the U.S. uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the U.S., so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates: All embassies are in the nation’s capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn’t listed below, check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in Chicago, Honolulu, Houston, New York, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 ( 202/682-1740; www.can-am.gc.ca/washington). Canadian consulates are in 12 cities throughout the U.S., including Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (202/462-3939; www.dfa.ie). Irish consulates are in Austin (Texas), Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, New York, and San Francisco,

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (202/328-4800; www.mfat.govt.nz). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Honolulu, and New York.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (202/588-6500; www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-embassy-washington). British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Miami, New York, San Francisco, and Los Angeles.

Emergencies: Call 911. In Yellowstone, you can also call the park’s main information number (307/344-7381), which is staffed 24 hours a day.

Family Travel: One useful guide to traveling with the kids is An Outdoor Family Guide to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks (Mountaineers Books, 2006). Older children can learn about nature by enrolling in the Junior Ranger Program at Yellowstone.

Health: Health hazards range from mild headaches to run-ins with wild animals, but the latter happens less frequently than car accidents in the parks. To be safe, you might want to keep a first-aid kit in your car or luggage, and have it handy when hiking. It should include at least butterfly bandages, sterile gauze pads, adhesive tape, an antibiotic ointment, pain relievers for children and for adults, alcohol pads, a pocket knife with scissors, and tweezers. Healthcare is available at clinics in the park; hospitals with 24-hour emergency rooms are located in Jackson and Cody, Wyoming.

Altitude Sickness: The most common health hazard is discomfort caused by altitude sickness. Adjusting to the park's high elevations is a process that can take a day or more. Symptoms of altitude sickness include headache, fatigue, nausea, loss of appetite, muscle pain, and lightheadedness. Doctors recommend that, until acclimated, travelers should avoid heavy exertion, consume light meals, and drink lots of liquids but little caffeine or alcohol.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns: Wildlife is to be treated with the utmost respect. Keep your distance—at least 300 feet if possible—from any wild animal. Mosquitoes, spiders, and ticks are the most bothersome biters, aside from the occasional rattlesnake.

Internet & Wi-Fi: When it comes to modern telecommunications, Yellowstone has extremely limited infrastructure: Lack of connectivity is the rule, not the exception. These are not destinations for those who need to check e-mail every few minutes—or even every day. Some Yellowstone lodges have Wi-Fi, sometimes only in the lobby or other public spaces: They are Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, Lake Lodge Cabins, Lake Yellowstone Hotel, Grant Village, and Old Faithful Snow Lodge.

Legal Aid: While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person’s guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate.

LGBT Travelers: While Wyoming has earned a reputation as an intolerant destination in the past, Yellowstone is generally gay-friendly. However, gay culture and nightlife are very limited in Jackson and nearly nonexistent in other gateways.

Mail: At press time, domestic postage rates were 35 cents for a postcard and 55 cents for a letter. For international mail, letters and postcards start at $1.15. For more information visit www.usps.com.

If you aren’t sure what your address will be in the U.S., mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (a driver’s license or passport, for example). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.

Always include a zip code when mailing items in the U.S. If you don’t know the zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Mobile Phones: The parks have several cell towers in developed areas. Cell service is widely available in Canyon, Grant, Lake, Mammoth Hot Springs, and Old Faithful villages but largely unavailable on the roads and in wilderness areas. Cell service is available in all of the gateway cities. International travelers may want to buy a pay-as-you-go phone for the trip.

Newspapers & Magazines: In Yellowstone, the best source of park information is the free Yellowstone Summer (or whichever season you’re visiting), the free park newspaper available at all entrances and visitor centers.

Packing: Nothing will ruin a trip to the parks faster than sore or wet feet. Bring comfortable walking shoes, even if you plan to keep walking to a minimum. Bring shoes that are broken in, and if you plan to do some serious hiking, get sturdy boots that support your ankles and protect against water. Early in the season, trails might be wet or muddy; late in the fall, you can get snowed on. The more popular trails are sometimes also used by horses, which can make stream crossings a mucky mess.

Take into account that elevations at the parks are between 5,000 and 11,000 feet; in campgrounds and on hiking trails, you’ll want clothing appropriate to the temperatures—in summer, 40F (4C) in the evening, 75F (24C) during the day.

Passports: Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative. Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

Police: Call 911.

Safety: The roads are the most dangerous places in Yellowstone, so be especially cautious while driving. Lightning and falls are also killers, but wildlife is the most unique peril in the parks. The most dangerous animal in either park might well be the grizzly bear, but all wildlife has the potential to injure a human. Keep a safe distance from buffalo, deer, moose, and other animals—at least 300 feet. Most people have a healthy respect for bears and are content to view them from a distance. But because a close encounter can happen unexpectedly, you need to know what to do in this situation. First, be aware that what matters most to a bear are food and cubs. If you get between a sow and her cubs, you could be in trouble. If a bear thinks that the food in your backpack is his, you also have a problem.

Unless bears have already developed a taste for human food, though, they won’t come looking for you. Make a lot of noise on the trail through bear habitat, and Ursus arctos horribilis will give you a wide berth. Don’t camp anywhere near the carcass of a dead animal; grizzlies sometimes partially bury carrion and return to it. Hang your food bag from your campsite’s pole or use a bear-resistant food container, keep your cooking area distant from your campsite, and don’t keep any food or utensils in your tent—or even clothes worn while cooking. Soaps and other perfumed items can also be attractants.

Avoid hiking at night or in the meadows of mountain areas if visibility is poor. Bears have an extremely good sense of smell but poor eyesight. Always carry bear spray.

If you encounter a bear, here are some things you should and should not do:

Do not run. Anything that flees looks like prey to a bear, and it might attack. Bears can run at more than 30 mph. The bear might bluff charge, but you’re best off holding your ground.
Avoid direct eye contact.
If the bear is unaware of you, stay downwind (so that it doesn’t catch your scent) and detour away from it slowly.
If the bear is aware of you but has not acted aggressively, slowly back away.
Do not climb a tree. Although black bears have more suitable claws for climbing, grizzly bears can climb trees, too.
Make noise and act intimidating if the bear does not retreat.
If you’re attacked, drop to the ground face down, clasp your hands over the back of your neck, tuck your knees to your chest, and play dead. Keep your backpack on—it can help protect your body. Only as a last resort should you attempt to resist an attack and fight off a bear.
Always carry bear spray, be sure that it’s handy when you’re in possible bear habitat, not buried in a backpack. If you use it, aim for the bear’s face and eyes. After you use it, leave the area: Bears have been seen returning to sniff about an area where spray has been used.

Smoking: Smoking is banned in most public places in the park.

Taxes: Lodging and sales tax in Yellowstone and its gateways varies from 2% to 3%. The U.S. has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant bills and airline tickets. These taxes do not appear on price tags.

Telephones: Many convenience stores and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25 cents or 35 cents. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the U.S. and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll free. Calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, “dating” services, and so on) can be expensive, with charges of 95 cents to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance (“Information”), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Time: Yellowstone is in the Mountain Standard Time zone. Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 2am on the second Sunday in March to 2am on the first Sunday in November. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

Tipping: In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you’ve left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

Tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

Toilets: You won’t find public toilets or “restrooms” on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons. Yellowstone has vault (flushless) toilets at numerous pullouts along the roads, and there are toilets at some trailheads, though not all.

Visitor Information: If you want information about the surrounding areas, contact these states’ travel services: Montana Office of Tourism (800/847-4868; www.visitmt.com); and Wyoming Office of Tourism, 5611 High Plains Rd., Cheyenne, WY 82007 (800/225-5996 or 307/777-7777; www.travelwyoming.com).

To receive maps and information before your arrival, contact Yellowstone directly, P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 (307/344-7381; www.nps.gov/yell). For information about educational programs at the Yellowstone Forever Institute and other resources, contact Yellowstone Forever, P.O. Box 117, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 (406/848-2400; www.yellowstone.org).

National forests and other public lands surround the parks. For information about national forests and wilderness areas in Montana, contact the U.S. Forest Service Northern Region, 26 Fort Missoula Rd., Missoula, MT 59804 (www.fs.usda.gov/r1; tel. 406/329-351). For information on Wyoming’s national forests, turn to the U.S. Forest Service Intermountain Region, Federal Building, 324 25th St., Ogden, UT 84401 (www.fs.usda.gov/r4; tel. 801/625-5305), and the U.S. Forest Service Rocky Mountain Region, 1617 Cole Blvd., Bldg. 17, Lakewood, CO 80401 (www.fs.usda.gov/r2; tel. 303/275-5350).

The federal Bureau of Land Management also manages millions of acres of recreational lands and can be reached at its Wyoming state office, 5353 Yellowstone Rd., Cheyenne, WY 82009 (www.blm.gov/wy; tel. 307/775-6256); or its Montana state office, 5001 Southgate Dr., Billings, MT 59101 (www.blm.gov/montana-dakotas; tel. 406/896-5000).

Water: Two waterborne hazards are Giardia and Campylobacter, with symptoms that wreak havoc on the human digestive system. If you pick up these pesky bugs, they might accompany you on your trip home. Untreated water from the parks’ lakes and streams should be boiled before consumption, pumped through a fine-mesh water filter specifically designed to remove bacteria, or treated with chemical water purifiers.

Special-Interest Vacations

Academic Trips

One of the best ways to turn a park vacation into an unforgettable experience is to join an educational program. There are no finals in these courses; they're just a relaxed, informative way to spend time outdoors.

The Yellowstone Association Institute, P.O. Box 117, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190 (tel. 406/848-2400; www.yellowstoneassociation.org/institute), operates at the historic Lamar Buffalo Ranch, in the northeast part of the park, and at other locations in the vicinity. It typically offers several hundred courses a year, covering everything from winter wildlife tracking to wilderness medicine to the history of fur trappers on the plateau. The courses, some of which are offered for college credit, run from 1 to 7 days, with forays into the field and lectures and demonstrations at the institute's cozy quarters. The classes are a study in camaraderie as well as natural history, with participants sharing meals and stories in the common kitchen. Prices are reasonable (around $125 a day for tuition), and some classes are specifically targeted to families and youngsters. To make the most of a class, you'll want to stay at the ranch itself, where simple, comfortable cabins are available for $30 a night per student. Customizable 1-day hiking and wildlife-watching private tours with an experienced naturalist run about $500 per day for groups of up to five people, including transportation. The institute has also teamed with Xanterra Parks & Resorts to offer 3- to 5-night Lodging & Learning packages, which include days spent exploring trails with guides coupled with nights at comfortable lodgings throughout the park. Rates are about $250 per person per day and include breakfast, a box lunch, and in-park transportation; contact Xanterra Parks & Resorts (tel. 866/439-7375; www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com).

The Teton Science Schools, 700 Coyote Canyon Dr., Jackson, WY 83011 (tel. 307/733-1313; www.tetonscience.org), is a 30-year-old institution that offers summer and winter programs for students and adults. Classes review the ecology, geology, and wildlife of the park, and there are photography and tracking workshops as well. Classes cater to different age groups, and the emphasis is on experiential, hands-on learning. College credit is available.

The Teton Science Schools' Wildlife Expeditions (tel. 877/406-6626 or 307/733-1313) include trips in open-roof vans, on rafts, in sleighs, and by foot. These tours bring visitors closer to wildlife than they're likely to get on their own. Wildlife Expeditions offers trips ranging from a half-day sunset safari ($125) to weeklong trips through the park, usually lodging in park hotels. Adult seminars usually run about $150 to $200 per day, but more inclusive ones cost upwards of $500 per day.

Adventure Trips & Guided Tours

In addition, AdventureBus, 375 S. Main St., No. 240, Moab, UT 84532 (tel. 888/737-5263 or 909/633-7225; www.adventurebus.com), offers trips on its customized buses with an emphasis on outdoor adventures, including multisport and mountain biking tours in the Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. The rate is about $1,000 per person for a weeklong trip. Austin-Lehman Adventures, P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108-1025 (tel. 800/575-1540; www.austinlehman.com), offers guided multiday mountain biking, hiking, and combination tours in and around Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. Six-night trips start around $2,300 per person. Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 (tel. 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555; www.backroads.com), offers a variety of guided multiday road biking, mountain biking, and hiking in and around Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. The rate is about $2,000 per person (camping) to $3,000 per person (park lodgings) for 6 days. The World Outdoors, 2840 Wilderness Place, Ste. D, Boulder, CO 80301 (tel. 800/488-8483 or 303/413-0946; www.theworldoutdoors.com), offers a variety of trips, including multisport adventures that include hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, and rafting in and around Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. Rates range from $1,700 to $2,700 per person for 6 days. Escape Adventures, 8221 W. Charleston St., No. 101, Las Vegas, NV 89117 (tel. 800/596-2953 or 702/596-2953; www.escapeadventures.com), offers 6-day guided road-biking tours of the parks. The rate is about $1,500 per person (camping) to $2,300 per person (park lodgings).

Health & Safety

Health hazards range from mild headaches to run-ins with wild animals, but the latter happens less frequently than car accidents in the parks. To be safe, you might want to keep a first-aid kit in your car or luggage, and have it handy when hiking. It should include at least butterfly bandages, sterile gauze pads, adhesive tape, an antibiotic ointment, pain relievers for children and for adults, alcohol pads, a pocket knife with scissors, and tweezers. Healthcare is available at clinics in both parks; hospitals with 24-hour emergency rooms are located in Jackson and Cody, Wyoming, as well as in Bozeman, Montana.

Altitude Sickness -- Because most of us live at or near sea level, the most common health hazard in the parks is discomfort caused by altitude sickness. Adjusting to the parks' high elevations is a process that can take a day or more. Symptoms of alcohol sickness include headache, fatigue, nausea, loss of appetite, muscle pain, and lightheadedness. Doctors recommend that, until acclimated, travelers should avoid heavy exertion, consume light meals, and drink lots of liquids but little caffeine or alcohol.

Bugs, Bites & Other Wildlife Concerns -- Wildlife are to be treated with utmost respect in both parks. Keep your distance -- at least 300 feet if possible -- from any wild animal in either park. Mosquitoes, spiders, and ticks are the most bothersome biters, aside from the occasional rattlesnake you might see around Gardiner, Montana.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Safety

The roads are the most dangerous places in Yellowstone, so be especially cautious while driving. Lightning and falls are also killers, but wildlife is the most unique peril in the parks. The most dangerous animal in either park might well be the grizzly bear, but all wildlife has the potential to injure a human. Keep a safe distance from buffalo, deer, moose, and other animals -- at least 300 feet. Most people have a healthy respect for bears and are content to view them from a distance. But because a close encounter can happen unexpectedly, you need to know what to do in this situation. First, be aware that what matters most to a bear are food and cubs. If you get between a sow and her cubs, you could be in trouble. If a bear thinks that the food in your backpack is his, you also have a problem.

Unless bears have already developed a taste for human food, though, they won't come looking for you. Make a lot of noise on the trail through bear habitat, and Ursus arctos horribilis will give you a wide berth. Don't camp anywhere near the carcass of a dead animal; grizzlies sometimes partially bury carrion and return to it. Hang your food bag high in a tree, keep your cooking area distant from your campsite, and don't keep any food or utensils in your tent -- or even clothes worn while cooking. Soaps and other perfumed items can also be attractants.

Avoid hiking at night or in the meadows of mountain areas if visibility is poor. Bears have an extremely good sense of smell but poor eyesight.

If you encounter a bear, here are some things you should and should not do:

Do not run. Anything that flees looks like prey to a bear, and it might attack. Bears can run at more than 30 mph. The bear might bluff charge, but you're best off holding your ground.

Avoid direct eye contact.

If the bear is unaware of you, stay downwind (so that it doesn't catch your scent) and detour away from it slowly.

If the bear is aware of you but has not acted aggressively, slowly back away.

Do not climb a tree. Although black bears have more suitable claws for climbing, grizzly bears can climb trees, too.

Make noise and act intimidating if the bear does not retreat.

If you're attacked, drop to the ground face down, clasp your hands over the back of your neck, tuck your knees to your chest, and play dead. Keep your backpack on -- it can help protect your body. Only as a last resort should you attempt to resist an attack and fight off a bear.

If you carry pepper spray, be sure that it's handy when you're in possible bear habitat, not buried in a backpack. If you use it, aim for the bear's face and eyes. After you use it, leave the area: Bears have been seen returning to sniff about an area where spray has been used.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Yellowstone is becoming increasingly user-friendly for travelers with disabilities. Those who are blind or have permanent disabilities can obtain a free Interagency Access Pass, which allows lifetime access to all national parks and federal fee areas. The pass must be obtained in person and is available at any entrance point to Yellowstone.

Wheelchair-accessible accommodations are available in all park lodges. For detailed information about accessible features throughout the park, visit www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/accessibility.htm. All campgrounds except Fishing Bridge, Pebble Creek, Slough Creek, and Tower Fall have at least one wheelchair-accessible campsite.

Wheelchair-accessible restrooms with sinks and flush toilets are located at all developed areas except West Thumb. Accessible vault toilets are located at West Thumb and Norris, all campgrounds, and in most scenic areas and picnic areas.

Many of Yellowstone’s roadside attractions, including the south rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, West Thumb Geyser Basin, much of the Norris and Upper Geyser basins, Mammoth Hot Springs, and parts of the Mud Volcano and Fountain Paint Pot areas, are negotiable by wheelchair. Visitor centers at Old Faithful, Grant Village, Mammoth, and Canyon are wheelchair accessible, as are the Norris Museum and the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center.

Wheelchair-accessible parking is available at all major developed areas and some overlooks and picnic areas.

When to Go

Summer, autumn, and winter are the best times to visit the Northern Rockies. The days are sunny, the nights are clear, and the humidity is low. A popular song once romanticized “Springtime in the Rockies,” but that season lasts for about 2 days in early June. The rest of the season formally known as spring is likely to be chilly and spitting snow or rain. Trails are still clogged with snow and mud.

Typically, from mid-June on, you can hike, fish, camp, and watch wildlife—except in the higher elevations, which cling to snow well into July. If you come before July 4 or after Labor Day, you won’t have to share the view all that much. Wildflowers bloom at the lower elevations in early summer—beginning in May in the lower valleys and plains, while in the higher elevations they open in July.

Autumn is not just the time when the aspens turn gold, it’s also the time when gateway motel and restaurant rates are lower and the roads are less crowded. That allows you to pay more attention to the wildlife, which is busy fattening up for the winter.

Winter is a glorious season here, although not for everyone. It can be very cold, but the air is crystalline, the snow is powdery, and the skiing is fantastic. If you drive in the parks’ vicinity in the winter, always carry winter clothing, sleeping bags, extra food, flashlights, and other safety gear. Every local resident has a horror story about being caught unprepared in the weather.

The Climate

The region is characterized by long, cold winters and short, relatively mild summers. There is not a lot of moisture, winter or summer, and the air is dry, except for the brief wet season in March and April.

Don’t expect the kind of spring you get in lower elevations. Cold and snow can linger into April and May—blizzards can even hit the area in mid-June—although temperatures are generally warming. The average daytime readings are in the 40s or 50s (4–15°C), gradually increasing into the 60s or 70s (16–26°C) by early June. So, during spring, a warm jacket, rain gear, and water-resistant walking shoes could be welcome traveling companions.

The area is rarely balmy, but temperatures during the middle of the summer are typically 75 degrees to 85 degrees F (24–29°C) in the lower elevations and are especially comfortable because of the lack of humidity. Remember, too, that the atmosphere is thin at this altitude, so sunscreen is a must. Nights, even during the warmest months, will be cool, with temperatures dropping into the low 40s (4–9°C), so you’ll want to include a jacket in your wardrobe. Because summer thunderstorms are common, you’ll probably be glad you’ve included a waterproof shell or umbrella.

As fall approaches, you’ll want to have an additional layer of clothing because temperatures remain mild but begin to cool. The first heavy snows typically fall in the valley by November 1 (much earlier in the mountains) and continue through March or April. Aspen trees turn bright yellow; cottonwoods turn a deeper gold.

During winter months, you’ll want long underwear, heavy shirts, vests, coats, warm gloves, and thick socks. Temperatures can be anywhere from the single digits (negative teens Celsius) to the 30s (–1 to 4°C) during the day, and subzero overnight temperatures are common. Ultracold air can cause lots of health problems, so drink fluids, keep an extra layer of clothing handy, and don’t overexert yourself.

For up-to-date weather information and road conditions, call 307/344-2117 (Yellowstone), 307/739-3614 (Grand Teton in summer), 307/739-3682 (Grand Teton in winter), or 511 (in-state mobile), or visit www.wyoroad.info.

Avoiding the Crowds

Between the Fourth of July and Labor Day, the Northern Rockies come to life. Flowers bloom, fish jump, bison calves frolic—and tourists converge. The park roads are crowded with trailers, with the well-known spots jammed with a significant portion of the millions who make their treks to Montana and Wyoming every year. Your best bet: Travel before June 15, if possible, or after mid-September. Labor Day used to represent a reliable slowdown in visitation, but in recent years, people have continued filling the park well into the fall season. If you can’t arrange an off-season visit, then go to the major attractions at off-peak hours when others are eating or sleeping. Or, as I suggest over and over, abandon the pavement for the hiking trails—a foolproof way to shake the hordes.

Whenever you come, give these parks as much time as you can; you’ll experience more at an unhurried pace.

Seasonal Road Openings & Closings

In Yellowstone—Traveling Yellowstone’s roads during spring months can be a roll of the dice because openings can be delayed for days (even weeks) at a time, especially at higher altitudes. There is always some section of road in Yellowstone under construction, so call ahead and get a road report (tel. 307/344-2117). It’s irritating, but don’t take it out on the road workers; they often labor through the night to cause as little inconvenience as possible.

The only road open year-round in the area is the north entrance to Mammoth Hot Springs. From Mammoth, a winter access road to the northeast entrance and Cooke City is plowed throughout the winter. This service for Cooke City residents gives visitors a great opportunity to watch wildlife in winter in the Lamar Valley. Just be mindful of the weather; the road is often slick with ice.

Snowplowing begins in early March. In Yellowstone, the first roads open to motor vehicles (usually by the end of April) include Mammoth-Old Faithful, Norris-Canyon, and West Yellowstone-Madison. If the weather cooperates, the East Entrance-Lake and Lake-Canyon open in early May, followed by the South Entrance-Lake, Lake-Old Faithful, and Tower-Tower Fall in mid-May. Tower-Canyon over Dunraven Pass typically opens last—by the end of May, unless there’s a late-season snowfall.

The Chief Joseph Highway, connecting the entrances in Cooke City, Montana, and Cody, Wyoming, often opens by early May. The Beartooth Highway, between Cooke City and Red Lodge, Montana, is generally open by Memorial Day weekend.

Winter road closures typically begin in mid-October, when the Beartooth Highway closes. Depending upon weather, most other park roads remain open until the park season ends in early November.

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year’s Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King Jr. Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents’ Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas Day). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2020). The parks are always open on holidays, but visitor centers are often closed.

Permits

If you want to sleep in the Yellowstone or Grand Teton backcountry, you must get a permit, follow limits for length of stay and campfires, and stay in a designated area. The permit costs $3 per person per night in Yellowstone (with a maximum group fee of $15) and $35 total in Grand Teton. Alternatively, you can reserve a site by paying a $45 fee to Grand Teton or $25 to Yellowstone. At Yellowstone, reservations must be made through fax, mail, or in person; at Grand Teton, they go through the site www.recreation.gov. Even when you get reservations, you still need to pick up your permit in person upon your arrival in the park. Yellowstone begins processing reservations for the current year starting on April 1, but accepts requests from January 1 to October 31. In Grand Teton, you can reserve a permit only from mid-February to May 15; thereafter all permits are first-come, first-served. If you’re going during the parks’ busy season, you’d be wise to make a reservation.

In Yellowstone, permits can be obtained at any ranger station (most of which are open 8am–4:30pm during the summer) and most visitor centers, no more than 2 days before embarking on a trip. To make a reservation by mail, send an application (available at www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/backcountryhiking.htm) to the Backcountry Office, P.O. Box 168, Yellowstone National Park, WY 82190. Phone reservations are not accepted, but if you want information about the system, call tel. 307/344-2160.

Boating Permits

For motorized craft in Yellowstone, the cost is $20 for annual permits, $10 for 7-day permits. Fees for nonmotorized boats are $10 for annual permits, $5 for 7-day permits. Boating permits are required for all vessels. Motorized boating is restricted to designated areas. Boating is prohibited on Yellowstone’s rivers and streams except for the Lewis River Channel, where hand-propelled vessels are permitted. In Grand Teton, the fees are $40 for motorized boats, $12 for nonmotorized. Powerboats are permitted on Jenny and Jackson Lakes; nonmotorized boats are allowed on most park lakes and the Snake River. Sailboats, windsurfers, and jet skis are allowed only on Jackson Lake. U.S. Coast Guard–approved personal flotation devices are required for each person.

Fishing Permits

In Yellowstone, park permits are required for anglers ages 16 and over; the permit costs $18 for 3 days, $25 for 7 days, and $40 for the season. Children 15 and under don’t need a permit if they are fishing with an adult, but they need a free permit if they’re fishing without supervision. Permits are available at any ranger station, any visitor center, Yellowstone Park General Store, and most fishing shops in the gateways. The season usually begins on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend and continues through the first Sunday in November. Yellowstone Lake, its tributaries, and sections of the Yellowstone River have shorter seasons.

Getting There

The automobile is the main method of transport within the parks. You won't find trains or buses with regular schedules here, although many tour operators use buses. Bikes are common, but riders and drivers should exercise extreme caution: Roads are twisty and rife with wildlife, pulled-over vehicles, and jaw-dropping scenery.

By Plane

The closest airport to Yellowstone is Yellowstone Airport (tel. 406/646-7631), just 1 mile north of the town of West Yellowstone, Montana (and 2 miles north of the west entrance to the park), on U.S. 191. The airport has commercial flights seasonally, early May through mid-October, on Delta Airlines, connecting through Salt Lake City.

American, Delta, and United all have flights to and from Jackson Hole Airport (tel. 307/733-7682), which is right in Grand Teton National Park in Jackson, Wyoming, and only 56 miles of scenic driving from the southern entrance of Yellowstone.

To the north, Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport (tel. 406/388-8321) in Bozeman, Montana, provides service via Alaska, Allegiant, American, Delta, Frontier, JetBlue, and United. From Bozeman, you can drive 87 miles on U.S. 191 to the West Yellowstone entrance, or drive 20 miles east on I-90 to Livingston and then 53 miles south on U.S. 89 to the Gardiner entrance.

Also to the north, Billings Logan International Airport (tel. 406/247-8609), Montana’s busiest airport, is 2 miles north of downtown Billings, Montana. Service is provided by Allegiant, Alaska, Delta, Cape Air, Frontier, and United. From Billings, drive 65 miles south on U.S. 212 to Red Lodge, and then 30 miles on the Beartooth Highway to the northeast Yellowstone entrance in Cooke City.

Yellowstone Regional Airport (tel. 307/587-5096) in Cody, Wyoming, serves the Bighorn Basin as well as the east and northeast entrances of Yellowstone with year-round commercial flights via United Express and summer service by SkyWest/Delta through Salt Lake City. From Cody, it’s a gorgeous 53-mile drive west along U.S. 14/16/20 to the east entrance of Yellowstone.

Airfares to the small airports surrounding the parks can be pricey, so if you like to drive, consider flying into Salt Lake City and driving about 300 miles to Grand Teton National Park. Even Denver, a drive of roughly 500 miles, is an alternative.

By Car

If interstate highways and international airports are the measure of accessibility, then Yellowstone is as remote as Alaska’s Denali National Park. But more than four million people make it here every year, on tour buses, in family vans, on bicycles, and astride snowmobiles. Cars are the most common method of travel in and around the parks. Public transportation is sparse, and the lack of trains makes it hard to get near the parks without your own vehicle.

Grand Teton’s gateways are from the north, south, and east. Drivers naturally enter from whichever side they approach the parks. From the west, U.S. 20 or U.S. 191 takes you to West Yellowstone, Montana. From the south, U.S. 191 runs through Jackson and the length of Jackson Hole before entering Yellowstone. From the east, U.S. 20 bisects Cody, Wyoming, and continues west 53 miles to the east entrance of Yellowstone. The northeast entrance of Yellowstone is accessible from U.S. 212 via Cooke City, Montana. The north entrance is just outside Gardiner, Montana, on U.S. 89.

Most of the major auto rental agencies have operations in the gateway city airports. Visit each airport’s rental car page for details, national reservation phone numbers, and local rental desk numbers. Also consider using a third-party booker such as Hotwire or Kayak for substantial savings on your rates. You’ll find the most car rental companies at Bozeman Yellowstone International and Billings Logan International. Jackson Hole Airport, Cody’s Yellowstone Regional Airport, and West Yellowstone’s Yellowstone Airport also have options for car renters.

Gasoline is sold in gateway cities, but at only a few select locations in the park; fill up well before empty. International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees.

Driving Distances to Yellowstone National Park*

Salt Lake City: 390 miles

Denver: 563 miles

Las Vegas: 809 miles

Seattle: 827 miles

Portland, Oregon: 869 miles

Omaha: 946 miles

Washington, D.C.: 2,081 miles

*The difference in distance to Grand Teton is about 70 miles, depending on your route.

By Bus or Shuttle

Public transportation options are fairly limited around the parks; a few companies will haul you from selected airports to gateway towns. For long-distance bus travel, check Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222) schedules for Bozeman, Jackson, and Idaho Falls. From the Bozeman airport, you can catch a ride to West Yellowstone with Karst Stage (tel. 406/556-3500) or Yellowstone RoadRunner (tel. 406/640-0631). The latter also serves Jackson and Idaho Falls. In winter, Xanterra Parks & Resorts (tel. 307/344-7311) runs a daily shuttle from Bozeman airport to Mammoth; advance booking required.

Staying Connected

Telephones

Many convenience stores and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the U.S. and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll free. Calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be expensive, with charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute. Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance ("Information"), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212.

Mobile Phones

The parks have several cell towers in developed areas. Cell service is widely available on the floor of Jackson Hole throughout Grand Teton National Park; in Yellowstone, it is available in Canyon, Grant, Mammoth Hot Springs, and Old Faithful villages but largely unavailable on the roads and in wilderness areas. Cell service is available in all of the gateway cities. International travelers may want to buy a pay-as-you-go phone for the trip.

Internet & Wi-Fi

When it comes to modern telecommunications, Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks have extremely limited infrastructure: Lack of connectivity is the rule, not the exception. These are not the best destinations for those who need to check e-mail every minute -- or even every day. The lodgings in the park typically lack Internet connections. Wi-Fi is prohibited at Lake Yellowstone Hotel, Roosevelt Lodge, Old Faithful Inn, Old Faithful Lodge, Lake Lodge, and Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel; the concessionaires are permitted to offer it at other lodgings and general stores, but as of this writing, it was not available. In Grand Teton National Park, Wi-Fi is available in public areas at Jenny Lake Lodge, Jackson Lake Lodge, Signal Mountain, and Colter Bay Village. Internet access is widely available in all of the gateways, but can be notably slow in Gardiner and West Yellowstone.

Tips for Families

The best general advice I've discovered is in Lisa Gollin Evans's book An Outdoor Family Guide to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks (Mountaineers Books, 2006). Older children can learn about nature by enrolling in the Yellowstone Junior Ranger Program. The Young Naturalist program at Grand Teton provides children with a similar opportunity to explore the natural world of the park and costs $1.

Especially for Kids

Yellowstone has a Junior Ranger Program for kids ages 5 to 12. The $3 fee covers the cost of the activity paper, Yellowstone's Nature, which describes the requirements for attaining Junior Ranger status. Activities include attending a ranger-led program, hiking, and keeping a journal. When participants complete the program, it's announced to the public with great fanfare, and a patch is awarded. Sign up at any visitor center.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Heavy summer auto traffic and the annual impact of millions of human beings have raised questions about the sustainability of these national parks. But a visit to Yellowstone and Grand Teton can be a relatively green vacation. In Yellowstone, concessionaire Xanterra Parks & Resorts (tel. 307/344-7311; www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com) has implemented numerous environmental initiatives, including a recycling and composting program, sourcing food for its restaurants locally and sustainably, and taking numerous measures to reduce water and energy use. The Old Faithful Snow Lodge, the newest lodging in the park, was built in part from reclaimed wood from the sawmill that cut the timber for the Old Faithful Inn, and the new gift shop at Mammoth has all sorts of green mementoes, as well as a kiosk for visitors to determine their personal carbon footprint and other interactive exhibits. Campgrounds have recycling bins near their entrances. In Grand Teton, the Grand Teton Lodge Company (tel. 307/543-2811; www.gtlc.com) has also implemented very successful sustainability programs to lessen the human impact on the park. The company encourages hotel guests to take a “sustainable stay pledge” in return for several perks, such as a reusable water bottle and a slight discount on a room. A 2015 remodel of Jackson Lake Lodge added water- and energy-conserving fixtures and incorporated recycled materials, and GTLC cooperated with a 2016 park effort to dramatically reduce landfill waste.

But perhaps the best way to look at sustainability is to go off the grid on an overnight backpacking trip. The website of the outdoor-ethics organization Leave No Trace (www.lnt.org) provides useful tips for backpackers on how to leave a campsite in the same condition—or better—than they found it. Backpacking is a refreshing counterpoint to modern life that will give perspective on the issues of sustainability and personal energy dependence.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry.

Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravel.org) promotes ethical tourism practices and manages a directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.

Carbonfund.org (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.com), and Cool Climate Network (www.coolclimate.org) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.

The "Green" Hotels Association (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the association's stringent environmental requirements.

For information on sutainable outdoor recreation, visit Tread Lightly! (www.treadlightly.org).

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

While Wyoming and Montana have earned reputations as intolerant destinations in the past, Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks are generally gay-friendly. However, gay culture and nightlife are very limited in Jackson and nearly nonexistent in other gateways.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport. All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the U.S. and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport. Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the Western Hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; visit https://www.cbp.gov/travel/us-citizens/western-hemisphere-travel-initiative for details). Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship.

To obtain a passport, contact a passport office in your home country.

Visas

The U.S. Department of State has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the U.S. without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Chile, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, and the United Kingdom. (Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult https://travel.state.gov.) Even though a visa isn’t necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application, providing basic personal and travel eligibility information. The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling. Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler’s passport expires, whichever comes first. Currently, there is a $14 fee for the online application. Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates. Note: As of April 1, 2016, you must have an enhanced e-passport to qualify for the VWP. Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder. Canadian citizens may enter the U.S. without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence.

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa.

Customs

International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs and Border Protection on entering or leaving, which includes filing form FinCen105. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs and Border Protection (www.cbp.gov).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the U.S.

Money

Money & Costs—Throughout this guide, Frommer’s lists prices in the local currency. The conversions below were accurate at press time. Rates do fluctuate; consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter.

The Value of the U.S. Dollar vs. Other Popular Currencies

US$: 1.00
A$: 1.47
C$: 1.33
€: 0.90
NZ$: 1.56
£: 0.77

What Things Cost in Yellowstone & Grand Teton US$

Admission to both parks for a week: 70.00

Double motel room in or around the parks, peak season: 265.00-513.00

Cabin (private): 105.00-388.00

Dinner main course in a full-service hotel restaurant: 8.00-48.00

Horseback riding: 48.00–78.00

Basic lake cruise: 19.00–36.00

Bus sightseeing tour (Yellowstone): 88.00–128.00

Round-trip snowcoach to Old Faithful: 258.00

1 gallon/1 liter of regular gas: 2.94/0.78

ATMs are widely available in the gateway cities and developed areas in both parks. Beware of hidden credit card fees while traveling. If you’re visiting from outside the U.S., check with your credit or debit card issuer about any fees for overseas transactions.

Visitor Information

Access/Entry Points—Yellowstone has five entrances. The north entrance, near Mammoth Hot Springs, is located just south of Gardiner, Montana, and U.S. 89. In the winter, this is the only access to Yellowstone by car.

The west entrance, just outside the town of West Yellowstone, Montana, on U.S. 20, is the closest entry to Old Faithful. Inside the park, you can turn south to Old Faithful or north to the Norris Geyser Basin. This entrance is open to wheeled vehicles from late April to early November, depending on snow levels, and to snowmobiles and snowcoaches from mid-December to mid-March.

About 64 miles north of Jackson, Wyoming, the south entrance, on U.S. 89/191/287, approaches Yellowstone from Grand Teton National Park. On the way, drivers get panoramic views of the Teton Range. Once in the park, the road skirts the Lewis River to the south end of Yellowstone Lake, at West Thumb and Grant Village. It’s open to cars from mid-May to early November and to snowmobiles and snowcoaches from mid-December to mid-March.

The east entrance, on U.S. 14/16/20, 53 miles west of Cody, Wyoming, is open to cars from early May to early November and to snowmobiles and snowcoaches from late December to early March. The drive over Sylvan Pass is the most scenically stunning approach to the park, but it might make you nervous if you’re not used to mountain driving.

The northeast entrance, at Cooke City, Montana, is closest to the Tower-Roosevelt area, 29 miles to the west. This entrance is open to cars year-round, but from early October, when the Beartooth Highway closes, until around Memorial Day, the only route to Cooke City is through Mammoth Hot Springs. When it’s open, the drive from Red Lodge to the park is a grand climb among the clouds.

Visitor Centers—There are five major visitor and information centers in the park, and each has something different to offer.

The Albright Visitor Center (tel. 307/344-2263), at Mammoth Hot Springs, is the largest and is open daily year-round (8am–6pm in summer; 9am–5pm in winter). It houses an info desk, backcountry office, and wildlife exhibits.

The Canyon Visitor Education Center (tel. 307/344-2550), in Canyon Village, is one of the park’s most expansive, interactive facilities, with excellent exhibits on the park’s supervolcano. It’s open 8am to 6pm daily in summer and staffed by friendly rangers used to dealing with crowds.

The park’s newest visitor center, the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center (tel. 307/344-2751), has picture-perfect views of Old Faithful, exhibits on how the geothermal features work, and an engaging Young Scientist area for budding geologists. It displays projected geyser-eruption times, making it a good first stop for those looking to see Old Faithful. It’s open daily in summer from 8am to 8pm and from 9am to 5pm in the shoulder seasons of April to late May and October to early November.

The Fishing Bridge Visitor Center (tel. 307/344-2450), near Fishing Bridge on the north shore of Yellowstone Lake, has an excellent display that focuses on the park’s bird life. You can get information and publications here as well. It’s open daily in summer from 8am to 7pm.

The Grant Visitor Center (tel. 307/344-2650) has publications, videos, and a fascinating exhibit on the role of fire in Yellowstone. It’s open daily in summer from 8am to 7pm.

Park literature and helpful staff are also found at several small information stations: the Madison Information Station (tel. 307/344-2821; summer daily 8:30am–4:30pm), home of the Junior Ranger Station; the Museum of the National Park Ranger (tel. 307/344-7353; summer daily 9am–4pm) and the Norris Geyser Basin Museum and Information Station (tel. 307/344-2812; summer daily 9am–5pm), both at Norris; the West Thumb Information Station (tel. 307/344-2876; summer daily 9am–5pm); and the West Yellowstone Visitor Information Center, 30 Yellowstone Ave. (tel. 307/344-2876; summer daily 8am–8pm, limited hours the rest of the year). In Gardiner, Yellowstone Forever, 308 E. Park St. (tel. 406/848-2400; www.yellowstone.org), contains a small gift shop with books and other visitor info.

Entrance Fees—A 7-day pass costs $35 per private vehicle. A 7-day snowmobile or motorcycle pass costs $30, and someone who comes in on bicycle, skis, or foot will pay $20 for 7 days. The National Park Service offers several free days or weeks every year; for this year’s schedule check www.nps.gov/planyourvisit/fee-free-parks.htm.

If you’re lucky enough to visit Yellowstone more than once a year, the $70 annual pass is the way to go. Even better, pick up the $80 Interagency Annual Pass (free for U.S. military members), which grants entry to all national parks and most other federal fee areas for a year. Other special passes include the Interagency Senior Pass, for a one-time fee of $80, for those ages 62 and up; the Interagency Access Pass, free for those with permanent disabilities; and the free Interagency 4th Grader Pass for American 4th graders and their families. Buy any pass at any entrance to the park.

Camping Fees—Fees for camping in Yellowstone range from $15 to $31 per night, depending on amenities. RV sites run up to $48 per night. For information on camping, see “Where to Camp in Yellowstone. It is possible to make reservations at some campgrounds in both parks.

Special Regulation & Warnings—More detailed information about the following rules can be requested from the park rangers, at visitor centers throughout the park, or at www.nps.gov/yell.

Bicycles: Bicycles are allowed on the park’s roadways and a few gravel roads, but not on trails or boardwalks. Spring (late Mar to early Apr) and fall (Nov) are some of the best times for cycling, as the park opens the roads to bikes before and after cars are allowed. Be prepared for nasty weather. Helmets and bright clothing are recommended because of the narrow, winding park roads and the presence of large RVs with poor visibility.
Camping: A person may camp in the park for no more than 30 days in any given year, and no more than 14 days during the summer season (except at Fishing Bridge RV Park, where neither limit applies). Food, garbage, and food utensils must be stored in a hard-sided vehicle or locked in a campground’s bearproof locker when not in use.
Defacing park features: Collecting, removing, or destroying any natural or archaeological objects is prohibited, including picking wildflowers or collecting rocks. Only dead-and-down wood of wrist size or smaller can be collected for backcountry campfires, and only when and where such fires are allowed.
Firearms: As of 2010, firearms are allowed in national parks (shooting them remains illegal). Those in possession of a firearm must have a legal license from their state of residence. Firearms are prohibited in marked facilities.
Littering: Littering in the national parks is strictly prohibited—if you take it in, you take it out. Throwing coins or other objects into thermal features is illegal.
Motorcycles: Motorcycles and motor scooters are allowed only on park roads. No off-road or trail riding is allowed. Driver’s licenses and license plates are required.
Pets: Pets must always be leashed and are prohibited in the backcountry, on trails, on boardwalks, and in thermal areas. If you tie up a pet and leave it, you’re breaking the law. Service animals, however, can go on trails and boardwalks in developed areas and, with a permit, the backcountry.
Smoking: No smoking is allowed in thermal areas, on trails, in buildings, or within 25 feet of any building entrance.
Snowmobiling: The park offers limited permits to private snowmobilers via a lottery system.
Swimming: Swimming or wading is prohibited in thermal features or in streams whose waters flow from thermal features in Yellowstone. (One exception is Boiling River near Mammoth, where visitors can take a warm soak between 6am and 8pm in summer and 7am to 6pm the rest of the year, when water levels allow.) Swimming elsewhere is discouraged due to the cold water, swift currents, and unpredictable weather.
Wildlife: It is unlawful to approach within 100 yards of a bear or wolf or within 25 yards of other wildlife. Feeding any wildlife is illegal. Wildlife calls, such as elk bugles or other artificial attractants, are forbidden.