Planning a trip to Zapata Peninsula and Playa Giron
Orientation -- Heading south from the highway, you come first to Boca de Guamá. Continuing on, the road hits the head of the bay at Playa Larga and then follows the coast, in a southeasterly direction to Playa Girón. There are small communities in both Playa Larga and Playa Girón, but aside from the resorts, restaurants, and few attractions, there's little of interest to travelers along the road. Look out for the tiny palm-studded island of Cayo Piedra that can be seen offshore near Playa Girón -- it's Fidel's favorite (and private) holiday home.
Battle Marks -- As you walk along the beaches of Playa Girón and Playa Larga, and drive the coastal road connecting them, you will notice tall concrete monuments marking the spots where a Cuban soldier died in the fighting. You may also notice many low-lying concrete machine gun nests, with their open rears for easy entry and thin front slits for wide-angle aiming. Many of these machine gun nests have been destroyed by recent hurricanes, but if you spot one, feel free to try it on for size -- it makes a unique photo opportunity.
Getting There
The nearest airport is in Varadero; see "Varadero," earlier in this chapter, for complete details. There is no dependable public transportation to this area, although most tour agencies in Havana and Varadero offer trips here.
The Zapata Peninsula and the beaches of Playa Larga and Playa Girón are connected to the Autopista Nacional -- and each other -- by a well- maintained two-lane highway. If you're coming by car, get off the highway at the exit for Australia and Jagüey Grande, and head south for 17km (11 miles) to Boca de Guamá. From there, it's another 13km (8 miles) to Playa Larga, and 34km (21 miles) to Playa Girón. If you arrive at Jagüey Grande on the Víazul bus, drop in at the Cubanacán office (tel. 45/91-3224) at the junction inside the restaurant (open from 8am to 8pm) to arrange a local taxi or, if you are staying in a casa particular, arrange a pick-up with them beforehand. A taxi to Playa Larga is CUC$20 and to Playa Girón, CUC$30.
Getting Around
Public transportation is very sporadic and unreliable in this area. Most visitors either have their own rental car or come on a guided tour. Cubacar is based at both Playa Larga and Playa Girón (tel. 45/98-4126), so if you end up here without wheels, you can easily rent some to get around. (There's a gas station at Boca de Guamá and close to Jagüey Grande.) Local taxis also can be hired at either of the hotels listed below. Cubataxi (tel. 45/98-4199) is based at Playa Girón. The new Guamá Bus Tour costs CUC$3 and runs between Playa Girón and Boca de Guamá, departing twice a day in each direction (departs Playa Girón at 9am and 2pm; departs Boca de Guamá at 10:30am and 3:30pm).
