Planning a trip to Zion National Park

There once was a time when planning a visit to a national park involved little more than choosing the dates and packing the car. Yet as more people discover the parks, it becomes harder to secure campsites, lodging, and even parking. To combat this, it's best to decide what you want to do at the park and then try to schedule your visit for the least-crowded time that is best for those activities. So, if horseback riding is something you want to do, schedule your trip for spring or fall, when the stables are open but the crowds are few.

Luckily, there are more lodging and dining choices in and near the national parks than there were 20 or 25 years ago. At that time, we were happy if we found a restaurant that was clean and served basic American food.

Packing -- When packing, keep in mind that this is a land of extremes, with an often-unforgiving climate and terrain. Those planning to hike or bike should take more drinking water containers than they think they'll need -- experts recommend at least 1 gallon of water per person per day on the trail -- as well as sun block, hats, other protective clothing, and sunglasses with UV protection.

Summer visitors will want to carry rain gear for the typical afternoon thunderstorms, and jackets or sweaters for cool evenings. Winter visitors will not only want warm parkas and hats, but lighter clothing as well -- the bright sun at midday can make it feel like June.

Take a first-aid kit, of course, and make sure it contains tweezers -- very useful for removing cactus spines. Hikers, especially those planning to go into the Narrows at Zion, will appreciate having a walking stick to brace themselves against the sometimes strong currents on the "trail," which is actually more wading than hiking

Supplies -- You'll find most of the groceries and camping supplies you want just outside the park's south entrance at Sol Foods Park Market, 95 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-0277; www.solfoods.com). This well-stocked store has a good selection of groceries, including fresh produce, meats, and dairy products, plus a very good deli. It also stocks camping supplies, souvenirs, and digital memory cards; rents DVDs; and has a restaurant. It is open daily year-round, 8am to 10pm in summer with shorter hours at other times. In downtown Springdale, you'll find an even better selection at Sol Foods Downtown Supermarket, which carries conventional groceries plus organic food and gourmet items, at 995 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-3100; www.solfoods.com). It's open daily 7am to 11pm. On the south end of Springdale (the opposite side of town from the national park), is the Springdale Fruit Company, 2491 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-3222; www.springdalefruit.com), which is open only from mid-March through mid-November (daily 9am-7pm) and sells fresh organic fruits, vegetables, and juices (try the fruit smoothies), plus trail mix and baked goods. It also has a picnic area and free Wi-Fi.

Those in need of outdoor equipment, hiking boots, clothing, sleeping bags, stoves, and the like will find what they need at Zion Outdoor, 868 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-0630; www.zionoutdoor.com). Outdoor equipment rentals can be found at Zion Adventure Company, 36 Lion Blvd. (tel. 435/772-1001; www.zionadventures.com); and Zion Rock & Mountain Guides, 1458 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-3303; www.zionrockguides.com), which rents and sells. For bike rentals and repairs, stop at Zion Cycles, also at 868 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-0400; www.zioncycles.com).

Tips for Families

Visiting Zion National Park with your children can be an especially rewarding experience, and is an excellent way for everyone to learn about the park's geology, plants, and animals, as well as to appreciate the unequaled beauty of nature. In addition, Zion National Park has some of the best children's programs we've seen in any national parks.

However, the park is in a rural area, and the gateway towns offer the basics but little more. There are no major chain grocers or discount stores, and although you will be able to buy items such as baby food and disposable diapers, you may not find the variety that you're used to. Parents should stock up before they leave larger communities such as Las Vegas, Salt Lake City, or St. George. It's also a good idea to carry any prescription drugs you might need, and to have the phone numbers of your doctor and pharmacist.

One of the nicest things about Zion National Park is the wide variety of hiking trails that it offers -- there is usually a path suited to every family member's interest and ability level. Among trails that children find especially enjoyable are the Weeping Rock Trail, because it leads to a fascinating rock that oozes water; and the various Emerald Pools trails, which take you to a series of attractive little pools, where you just might see -- or at least hear -- some frogs. The only problem at the Emerald Pools is that kids (and adults, too) have to resist the strong urge to submerge their toes in the dark green water (swimming is not permitted).

Older youths -- perhaps young teens -- who are in good physical condition will enjoy hiking into the Narrows from the end of the Riverside Walk, where a hike is almost a swim, and you're staring up from the bottom of a 1,000-foot ravine. However, the Narrows can be very hazardous, so discuss plans with park rangers in advance.

Park rangers also run special programs just for children. Kids 11 and under can join the Junior Rangers/Explorers and participate in a variety of hands-on activities, earning certificates, pins, and patches. Morning and afternoon sessions, each lasting 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours, take place daily from Memorial Day through Labor Day, with children meeting at the Zion Nature Center, near the entrance to South Campground.

Kidding Around -- Kids love the huge screen and dramatic photography in the Zion Canyon: Treasure of the Gods production at the Zion Canyon Theatre.

Money

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check current rates.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, get Frommer's Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on "Travel Tools."

What Things Cost in the Parks (US$)

Double room, moderate, in summer $140-$160

Double room, inexpensive, in summer $85-$95

Commercial campground, full RV hookups $30-$35

Three course dinner for one without wine, moderate $20-$30

Bottle of beer $3.50-$5

Cup of Coffee $2-$2.50

1 gallon/1 liter of regular gas $3.80/$1

When to Go

SEASONS/AVOIDING THE CROWDS: Zion is one of the most-used national parks in the country. It’s open year-round (though visitor centers are closed Christmas Day), 24 hours a day, although weather con-ditions may limit some activities at certain times. Avoid long hikes in midsummer, when the park bakes under temperatures that can exceed 110[dg]F (43[dg]C), or during and immediately after winter storms, when ice and snow at higher elevations can make trails dangerous.

Try to avoid the peak months of June, July, and August, when Zion re-ceives almost half of its annual visitors. The quietest months are Decem-ber, January, and February, but, of course, it’s cold then; you may have to contend with some snow and ice. Spring and fall are best.

To avoid crowds, simply walk away from them. Choose longer and more strenuous hiking trails or hike into the backcountry. Most visitors don’t bother to venture far from the road, and their loss can be your gain. If you’re willing to expend a little energy, you can enjoy a wonderful solitary experience. You can also avoid hordes of tourists by spending time in spectacular Kolob Canyons, in the far northwest section of the park; it receives surprisingly little use, at least compared to Zion Canyon.

Escorted & Package Tours

A number of nationally recognized companies offer tours that include Zion and Bryce and surrounding areas. In most cases, all you do is pay, and then the outfitters arrange everything, including lodging, meals, and transportation. Offerings range from fairly standard bus tours to luxury adventure vacations. You'll want to contact tour operators as far in advance as possible, as reservations are required and group sizes are limited. The adventure tour operators generally specialize in small groups and have trips for various levels of ability and physical fitness. Trips are offered in a range of price categories, from basic to luxurious, and are of varying lengths.

For a list of outfitters in Utah, as well as a lot of other useful information and Web links, contact the Utah Office of Tourism, Council Hall, 300 N. State St., Salt Lake City, UT 84114 (tel. 800/200-1160; www.utah.com), or check out the website of Utah Guides & Outfitters, www.utah-adventures.com.

In addition to the companies listed below, one well-respected national company that offers tours to southern Utah's national parks is Tauck Tours (tel. 800/788-7885; www.tauck.com). A good online source for a variety of outdoor adventure trips offered by various outfitters is www.adventurefinder.com.

  • Austin-Lehman Adventures, P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108-1025 (tel. 800/575-1540 or 406/655-4591; www.austinlehman.com), offers guided multiday hiking tours in Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks and surrounding areas.
  • Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 (tel. 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555; www.backroads.com), offers a variety of guided multiday road biking, mountain biking, and hiking tours in Zion and Bryce Canyon.
  • Bicycle Adventures, 29700 SE High Point Way, Issaquah, WA 98027 (tel. 800/443-6060 or 425/250-5540; www.bicycleadventures.com), offers guided multiday hiking and biking excursions in Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks.
  • REI Adventures, P.O. Box 1938, Sumner, WA 98390 (tel. 800/622-2236 or 253/437-1100; www.rei.com/adventures), offers guided multiday hiking and biking treks into Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, plus a unique trip on New Year's Day that includes a bit of snowshoeing with your hike.
  • The World Outdoors, 2840 Wilderness Place, Ste. D, Boulder, CO 80301 (tel. 800/488-8483 or 303/413-0946; www.theworldoutdoors.com), offers a variety of trips, including hiking and multisport adventures to Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks.

Getting Around

At either Zion or Bryce Canyon national parks there are two main ways to get around -- private vehicle and/or shuttle bus. Due to road congestion within the parks, both have instituted shuttle buses from late spring through early fall in the most popular areas of the parks. At Zion, it's mandatory -- private vehicles are prohibited on the park road when the shuttle is running; at Bryce Canyon, use of the shuttle bus is optional. Unlimited use of the shuttle buses in both parks is included in the entrance fee.

By Car

Most visitors to Zion will be arriving at the South Entrance, at the town of Springdale. From April through October private vehicle use in this area is limited and visitors must use the shuttle on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. The rest of the year you are free to drive yourself on the scenic drive. However, there is no shuttle and you are free to drive yourself year-round along the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway (from the park's East Entrance) and in the Kolob Canyons and Terrace sections of the park.

Year-round fuel stations include Springdale Chevron, on the south side of town, at 1593 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-3677). Outside the park's east entrance, there is a gas station at 4490 S. State St., Mt. Carmel (tel. 435/648-2326). Emergency 24-hour service is available from W. J. Bassett Repair (tel. 435/772-3328), in Springdale.

By Shuttle

The park's shuttle bus system runs from April through October, and during that time access to Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (above Utah 9) is limited to shuttle buses, hikers, and bikers. The only exceptions are overnight Zion Lodge guests and tour buses connected with the lodge, which have access to the road as far as the lodge. The shuttle system consists of two loops: one in the town of Springdale and the other along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, with the loops connecting at the transit/visitor center just inside the south park entrance. Shuttle stops are located at all the major-use areas in the park, and shuttles run frequently (about every 6 min. at peak times). The buses are handicap accessible. From November through March, when park visitation is lowest, visitors are permitted to drive the full length of Zion Canyon Scenic Drive in their own vehicles. Complete information about the shuttle and all stops is available at the visitor center.

Exploring the Parks by RV or "Car-Camping"

One of the best ways to explore Zion and Bryce parks, is in an RV, or in a car or truck while spending your nights in a tent.

There are a few things that RVers might want to know. Entering Zion from the east in an RV involves an extra fee and maybe a short wait to get through the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel, and there may be parking restrictions along the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. However, entering the park from this direction is worth it, and taking your RV into these parks isn't much of a hassle, especially if you plan ahead.

Parking is limited, especially for motor homes and other large vehicles, so park your RV where you'll be camping, and take shuttle buses as much as possible. Drive either early or late in the day, when there's less traffic -- the best times to explore the parks anyway.

If you'll be traveling in the parks in your RV and want to make it obvious that your campsite is occupied, carry something to leave in it, such as a cardboard box with "Site Taken" clearly written on it.

Because many of the national park campsites are not level, carry four or five short boards, or leveling blocks, to place under the RV's wheels. You can buy inexpensive levels at RV and hardware stores.

Elsewhere in this guide you'll find information on camping in Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks, on nearby federal and state lands, and in the parks' gateway towns. Those planning to camp elsewhere in the state can get information on Utah's national forests from the U.S. Forest Service Intermountain Region Office, 324 25th St., Ogden, UT 84401 (tel. 801/625-5306; www.fs.fed.us/r4). The Utah State Office of the U.S. Bureau of Land Management is at 440 W. 200 South, Ste. 500, Salt Lake City, UT 84145-0155 (tel. 801/539-4001; www.blm.gov/ut). For information on Utah's state parks, contact Utah State Parks, 1594 W. North Temple, Ste. 116, Salt Lake City, UT 84116 (tel. 877/887-2757 or 801/538-7220; www.stateparks.utah.gov).

Members of the American Automobile Association (AAA) can request the club's free Southwestern CampBook, which includes campgrounds and RV parks in Utah, Arizona, Colorado, and New Mexico; and several good national and regional campground guides are also available.

Renting an RV for Your National Park Trek -- If you own an RV, you're all set for a trip to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks; but if you don't, you might want to consider renting one.

But first, let's get one thing straight: You probably won't save a lot of money. It is possible to travel fairly cheaply if you limit your equipment to a tent, a pop-up tent trailer, or a small pickup truck camper, but renting a motor home will probably end up costing almost as much as driving a compact car, staying in moderately priced motels, and eating in family-style restaurants and cafes. That's because the motor home will go only one-third as far on a gallon of gas or diesel as your car, and they're expensive to rent (generally $1,000-$1,500 per week in midsummer).

But carrying your house with you lets you stay in relative comfort in the national park campgrounds, which many park visitors feel is one of the highlights of their trip. It also lets you stop for meals anytime and anywhere you choose, and you won't spend time searching for a restroom.

If you plan to fly into the area and rent an RV when you arrive, choose your starting point carefully. Rental rates are usually less in Las Vegas, Nevada, than in Salt Lake City, and most of Utah's national parks are closer to Vegas than to Salt Lake City anyway.

The country's largest RV rental company, with outlets in Las Vegas and Salt Lake City, is Cruise America (tel. 800/671-8042; www.cruiseamerica.com). RV rentals are also available from El Monte RV (tel. 888/337-2214; www.elmonterv.com) and Camping World (tel. 877/297-3687; www.rvrental.com). Information on rental agencies, as well as tips on renting, can be obtained from the Recreation Vehicle Rental Association (www.rvra.org).

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- The area code is 435.

ATMs -- An automated teller machine (ATM) is available in the park at Zion Lodge. There are also ATMs in Springdale, at Sol Foods Supermarket & Deli, 95 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-0277; www.solfoods.com), and there is also an ATM, as well as other banking services, at Zions Bank, 921 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-3274; www.zionsbank.com).

Drinking Laws -- The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 21; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out. Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. Don't even think about driving while intoxicated.

Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.

Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212) or check www.embassy.org/embassies.

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.usa.embassy.gov.au). Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.embassyofireland.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See website for complete listing.

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzembassy.com). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-6500; http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.

Emergencies -- Dial tel. 911 or 435/772-3322, 24 hours a day, or locate the nearest park ranger.

Insurance -- For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancelation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Laundry -- There are no laundry facilities in Zion National Park, but coin-operated laundry machines and dryers are located at Zion Canyon Campground (tel. 435/772-3237; www.zioncamp.com), just outside the park's south entrance, and in downtown Springdale, in the Zion Park Motel complex, 865 Zion Park Blvd. (tel. 435/772-3251; www.zionparkmotel.com).

Legal Aid -- While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court.

Mail -- There are mail drops at each of the visitor centers. Springdale's post office (zip code 84767) is located at 625 Zion Park Blvd., open Monday through Saturday.

At press time, domestic postage rates were 29¢ for a postcard and 44¢ for a letter. For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 98¢ (80¢ to Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter. For more information go to www.usps.com.

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, etc.). Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 5 or 6pm, and Saturday from 8am to noon or a bit later.

Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.

Medical Services -- The Zion Canyon Medical Clinic, 120 Lion Blvd., Springdale (tel. 435/772-3226), is a family-practice and urgent-care facility. For medical emergencies, dial tel. 911, or locate the nearest park ranger. One of the larger hospitals in this part of the state, with a 24-hour emergency room, is Dixie Regional Medical Center, 544 S. 400 East, St. George (tel. 435/251-1000; www.intermountainhealthcare.org). From the east entrance, the nearest medical facility is Kane County Hospital, 355 N. Main St., Kanab (tel. 435/644-5811; www.kchosp.net), which also has a 24-hour emergency room.

For foreign visitors: Unless you're arriving from a nation suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States.

Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.

Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.

All of Utah is in the Mountain Standard Time zone.

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.

For help with time translations, download our Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Tipping -- In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a big mess for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.

For help with tip calculations, currency conversions, and more, download the Travel Tools app for your mobile device .

Weather -- For current statewide weather information, contact the National Weather Service (tel. 801/524-5133; www.wrh.noaa.gov/slc). For local weather information, call the park office at tel. 435/772-3256.

Visitor Information

Officials at Zion National Park, Springdale, UT 84767 (435/772-3256), prefer you write for information (rather than call) at least a month before your planned visit, and they will mail you information; but you will find everything you need and more on the park’s website. You can purchase books, posters, maps, DVDs, and CDs related to the park from the nonprofit Zion Natural History Association (800/635-3959 or 435/772-3265). Some publications are available in foreign languages. Those wanting to help the nonprofit association can join ($45 single or $60 family annually) and get a 15% discount on purchases and most Zion Canyon Field Institute classes, and discounts at most other nonprofit bookstores at national parks, monuments, historic sites, and recreation areas.

Don’t skip Zion’s two visitor centers—they give you a quick overview and allow you to “shop” for the experiences best suited to your timeframe and energy level. The Zion Canyon Visitor Center, near the south entrance to the park, has a wide variety of outdoor exhibits. Rangers answer questions and provide backcountry permits; free brochures are available; and books, maps, videos, postcards, and posters are sold. It’s open daily from 8am to 6pm; in winter, it closes at 5pm.

The Kolob Canyons Visitor Center, in the northwest corner of the park, right off I-15, provides information, permits, books, and maps. It is open from 8am to 4pm. The Zion Human History Museum, about 1 mile inside the south entrance, offers museum exhibits, park information, an orientation program, and a bookstore; it’s open daily in summer from 9am to 7pm, with short-er hours at other times.

Visitor centers and the museum are closed on Christmas Day.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

The National Park Service has made great strides in recent years in making their facilities more accessible to those with disabilities. Visitor centers at Zion are wheelchair accessible, including the restrooms. Accessible campsites are available in South and Watchman campgrounds; Riverside Walk, at the end of Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, is paved and accessible with assistance; and Pa'rus Trail is a 2-mile paved and accessible trail, open also to bicyclists. Zion's shuttle system is completely accessible. In addition, park rangers are extremely receptive to helping visitors with disabilities. Disabled travelers can obtain free admission and discounts on many park facilities, such as campgrounds.

The Utah information and referral line for people with disabilities is tel. 800/333-8824, or go online to www.accessut.org.

Health & Safety

The rugged landscapes that make Zion and Bryce Canyon such beautiful destinations can also be hazardous. Because many areas in the parks are isolated, there may be no one there to help in an emergency; and because the parks have spotty cell phone service -- nonexistent in more remote areas -- you should not count on being able to call for help. Always check with park offices and park rangers about current conditions before heading out.

Southern Utah's extremes of climate -- from burning desert to snow-covered mountains -- can produce health problems, if you're not prepared. If you haven't been to the desert before, it can be difficult to comprehend the heat, dryness, and intensity of the sun. If you're prone to dry skin, moisturizing lotion is a must; even if you're not, you will probably end up using it. Everyone needs to use a good quality sun block, wear a hat, and wear sunglasses with full ultraviolet protection. Hikers and others planning to be outside will also need to carry water -- at least a gallon per person per day.

The other potential problem is elevation. Bryce Canyon National Park rises to over 9,000 feet, and a side trip to Cedar Breaks National Monument will take you to over 10,000 feet. These elevations are high enough to produce health problems for those not accustomed to them -- there's less oxygen and lower humidity up there than many visitors are used to. In fact, the most common complaint at the first-aid station at the Lodge at Bryce Canyon is shortness of breath. Those with heart or respiratory problems should consult their doctors before planning a trip to these parks, Bryce Canyon in particular. If you're in generally good health, you don't need to take any special precautions, but it's advisable to ease into high elevations by changing altitude gradually. Also, get plenty of rest, avoid large meals, and drink plenty of nonalcoholic fluids, especially water.

State health officials also warn outdoor enthusiasts to take precautions against hantavirus, a rare but often fatal respiratory disease, first recognized in 1993. About half of the country's confirmed cases have been reported in the Four Corners states of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. The droppings and urine of rodents usually spread the disease, and health officials recommend that campers and hikers avoid areas with signs of rodent occupation. Symptoms of hantavirus are similar to flu, and lead to breathing difficulties and shock.

Protecting the Environment

Many of the wonderful outdoor areas that you'll be exploring in Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks are quite isolated, especially in the backcountry at Zion. Not long ago, the rule was to "leave only footprints"; these days, we're trying to do better and not leave even those. It's relatively easy to be a good outdoor citizen -- pack out all trash, stay on established trails, be especially careful not to pollute water, and, in general, do your best to have as little impact on the environment as possible. Some hikers carry a small trash bag to pick up what others may have left. As the park service likes to remind us, protecting our national parks is everyone's responsibility.

Entry Requirements & Customs

FEES, BACKCOUNTRY PERMITS & REGULATIONS: Entry into the park (for up to 7 days), which includes unlimited use of the shut-tle bus, costs $25 per private car, pickup truck, van, or RV, or $12 per individual 16 or older on motorcycle, bicycle, or foot (maximum charge of $25 per family). America the Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Passes are honored. Oversize vehicles are charged $15 for use of the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel on the east side of the park (see “Getting There/Access Points,” above).

Backcountry permits, available at either visitor center, are required for all overnight hikes in the park as well as for any slot canyon hikes. Permits cost $10 for 1 or 2 persons, $15 for 3 to 7, and $20 for 8 to 12 peo-ple. Camping costs $16 per night for basic campsites and $18 to $20 per night for sites with electric hookups (located in Watchman Campground).

Bicycles are prohibited in the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, the backcountry, and on trails, except the Pa’rus Trail. Feeding or disturbing wildlife is forbidden, as are vandalism and disturbing any natural feature of the park. Pets, which must be leashed at all times, are prohibited on all trails (except the Pa’rus Trail, where leashed pets are permitted), in the back-country, and in public buildings.

Tips for Travelers with Pets

Although national surveys show that about two-thirds of pet owners take their pets along on their travels, practically all national parks, including Zion and Bryce Canyon, are not pet-friendly; therefore, those planning to visit the parks should consider leaving their pets at home. Pets are prohibited on hiking trails, in the backcountry, and in all buildings, and must always be on a leash no more than 6 feet long. One happy exception is at Zion, where leashed pets are permitted on the Pa'rus Trail. Pets should not be left unattended in campgrounds at either park. Essentially, this means that if you take your pet into the parks they can be with you in the campgrounds and inside your vehicle, and you can walk them in parking areas, but that's about it.

Pets should never be left in closed vehicles, where temperatures can soar to over 120°F (49°C) in minutes, resulting in brain damage or death. Outside Bryce Canyon National Park, in Tropic, Canyon Park Animal Retreat (tel. 435/679-8548) offers day boarding; and in Panguitch, about 30 miles west, day and overnight boarding are available at Pawzdogz (tel. 436/691-3696; www.pawzdogz.com). Visitors to Zion National Park will find day and overnight pet boarding in the community of Rockville, just a few miles from the park, at Doggy Dude Ranch (tel. 435/772-3105; www.doggyduderanch.com).

Those who do decide to take pets with them into these parks, despite the fact that they are not permitted in most places, should take their pets' leashes (of course); carry plenty of water (pet shops and outdoor equipment suppliers sell clever little travel water bowls); and bring proof that their dogs or cats have been vaccinated against rabies. Flea and tick spray or powder is also important, especially if you will be taking your pet to Bryce Canyon, where bubonic plague is transmitted by the fleas that prey on prairie dogs and other rodents. A good online source of information for pet owners is www.petswelcome.com.

Special Tip for Pet Owners -- Although pets are not permitted on practically any of the trails or in the backcountry in Bryce Canyon and Zion national parks, those traveling with their dogs can hike with them over miles of trails administered by the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management, adjacent to both national parks. Pets are also welcome, even on trails, in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (run by the BLM) and in Utah's state parks.

Staying Connected

Mobile Phones

Both GSM and CDMA cell phones work in the gateway communities, but service is spotty in the park, and nonexistent in the more remote areas of the park.

Telephones

Public telephones are located at the visitor center, Zion Lodge, and the Zion Human History Museum.

Many convenience groceries and packaging services sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50. Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa. Local calls made from most pay phones cost either 25¢ or 35¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone. To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number. For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling.

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free.

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both. If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator.

For directory assistance ("Information"), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada. For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the area code plus 555-1212.

Internet & Wi-Fi

Free Wi-Fi access is available year-round in the lobby at Zion Lodge, and most lodging facilities also offer free Wi-Fi.

Getting There

Located in southwest Utah, at elevations ranging from 3,666 feet to 8,726 feet, Zion National Park has several sections: Zion Canyon, the main part of the park, where everyone goes, and the less-visited Kolob Terrace and Kolob Canyons areas.

GETTING THERE/ACCESS POINTS: St. George and Cedar City are the closest towns with airport service. From either air-port, it’s easy to rent a car and drive to Zion. Utah 9 connects with Zion National Park, giving the main section of the park two entry gates—south and east. The drive into Zion Canyon (the main part of the park) from I-15 on the park’s western side, following Utah 9 or Utah 17, and then Utah 9 to the south entrance at Springdale, is by far the more popular, with two-thirds of park visitors arriving there. Most area lodgings and restaurants are found in Springdale, and the park’s two campgrounds and the Zion Canyon Visitor Center are located just inside the south entrance. This approach has the added advantage of avoiding possible delays at the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel. However, this approach is much less scenic than the eastern approach.

From the east, it’s a spectacularly scenic 24-mile drive from Mt. Car-mel on Utah 9, reached from either the north or south via U.S. 89. How-ever, be aware that this route into the park drops over 2,500 feet in eleva-tion, passes through the mile-long Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, and winds down six steep switchbacks. The tunnel is too small for two-way traffic for any vehicles larger than standard passenger cars and pickup trucks. Buses, large trucks, and most recreational vehicles must be driven down the center of the tunnel, and therefore, all oncoming traffic must be stopped. This applies to all vehicles over 7 feet 10 inches wide (including mirrors) or 11 feet 4 inches tall (including luggage racks, and so on). In-formation is available at park entrances or by calling park headquarters (435/772-3256). Such large vehicles must pay a $15 fee before enter-ing the tunnel, good for two trips through the tunnel for that vehicle dur-ing a 7-day period. All vehicles over 13 feet 1 inch tall and certain other particularly large vehicles are prohibited from driving anywhere on the park road between the east entrance and Zion Canyon.

Kolob Terrace Road, with additional viewpoints and trailheads, heads north off Utah 9 from the village of Virgin, about 15 miles west of the park’s southern entrance. This road is closed in the winter.

The Kolob Canyons section, in the park’s northwest corner, can be reached via the short Kolob Canyons Road off I-15 exit 40.

Some helpful distances: The park is 83 miles southwest of Bryce Can-yon National Park; 120 miles northwest of the north rim of Grand Can-yon National Park, in northern Arizona; 309 miles south of Salt Lake City; and 158 miles northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada.