Safari Expeditions in Zululand
Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Game Reserve
Established in 1895, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi (the first part pronounced "shloe-shloe-whee") is one of the oldest wildlife sanctuaries in Africa and birthplace of the Wilderness Trail concept. Once separate reserves, Mluhluwe and iMfolozi were united in 1989 and now encompass 96,453 hectares (238,239 acres). The provinces' premier wildlife destination, it's the second-most-popular park after Kruger. Though it's a mere 20th the size of its Mpumalanga counterpart, the reserve is home to a large variety of wildlife, including the Big 5, cheetahs, hyenas, wild dogs, wildebeests, giraffes, hippos, zebras, and a large variety of antelopes. Certainly, this is the best place in the world to spot rhino, particularly the white (from the Afrikaans-Dutch "wijd" or square-lipped) variety. Many consider its unique combination of forest, woodland, savanna, and grasslands, and its hot, humid, wet summers, the "real" Africa -- well worth visiting as an alternative or addition to Kruger.
Treks along the Wilderness Trails are conducted by rangers from March to November in the 25,000-hectare (61,750-acre) iMfolozi wilderness, once the royal hunting grounds of King Shaka. Access to this area has only ever been permitted to those on foot, making this one of the most pristine reserves in the world. Book them well in advance through KZN Wildlife.
Visitor Information -- Open daily March through October from 6am to 6pm, and November through February from 5am to 7pm. Admission is R90 per adult, R45 per child. Guided 2-hour (R180 per person, no kids) and 3-hour game drives (R180) take place in the early morning and late afternoon through early evening, when it is cooler and the animals are prepared to move about more; these are open to residents only. For more information, call Hilltop Camp (tel. 035/562-0848) or iMfolozi Camp (tel. 035/550-8477).
Getting There -- The reserve is about 280km (174 miles) north of Durban, with two entrances leading off the N2. The quickest way to get to Hilltop Camp is via Memorial Gate, 50km (31 miles) north of Mtubatuba (Hilltop is approximately 30 min. from here), but if you want to enter the park sooner, enter via Nyalazi Gate (turn off on the R618 at Mtubatuba). Adhering to the 40kmph (25-mph) speed limit, it's about a 50-minute drive to the camp. The third entrance, Cengeni Gate, is approached from the west, 30km (19 miles) from Ulundi. To drive from Cengeni to Hilltop, allow 3 hours.
Where to Stay & Dine -- Of the two public rest camps in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, Mpila -- an unfenced camp in iMfolozi -- is the best choice for an authentic, self-catering bush stayover. Accommodations are mostly basic, with shared kitchen facilities and baths. You may want to ask about one of the two-bedroom cottages or tents (en suite and electrified, but with shared kitchen). There is no restaurant; Mpila camp shop provides basic provisions. At the other end of the spectrum, Hilltop, in the Hluhluwe section, is rated one of the best public camps in the country; it's a good base not just for the reserve, but also for day forays to Mkuzi or Lake St Lucia (2 hr. from Hilltop).
Note: Also available are a number of houses, which KZN Wildlife calls lodges, situated in secluded areas picked for their natural beauty. These are unfenced, necessitating the protection of an armed ranger for bush walks; most also have a resident cook (though you may have to provide ingredients; check beforehand), or you may choose self-catering. These lodges (sleeping six to eight) are available only for single bookings, making this option suitable for a group or family, or a couple prepared to pay a little extra for total privacy. For more information on these, take a look at the Yellowwood and Red Ivory collections under www.kznwildlife.com; write to bookings@kznwildlife.com, or call tel. 033/845-1000.
iSimangaliso Wetland Park
From the Mfolozi swamps in the south, this RAMSAR and World Heritage Site stretches 220km (136 miles) northward to Mozambique, incorporating the St Lucia Game and Marine Reserves, False Bay Park, Cape Vidal, Sodwana Bay, and Mkhuze Game Reserve. Covering 254,500 hectares (628,615 acres), it encompasses five distinct ecosystems, including one of the three most important wetlands in Africa, mangrove forests, the dry savanna and thornveld of the western shores and the vegetated sand dunes of the eastern shores, the Mkhuze swamps (home to more than 400 bird species, including the rare Pel's fishing owl and Palm Nut Vulture), and the great estuary and offshore coral reefs.
The most easily accessed aspect is Lake St Lucia. A 38,882-hectare (96,039-acre) expanse of water dotted with islands, it supports an abundance of wildlife, including Nile crocodiles, hippos, rhinos, elephants, buffaloes, and giraffes, as well as a host of waterbirds, including pelican, flamingos, herons, fish eagles, kingfishers, geese, ducks, and storks. The lake is flanked on the west by typical bushveld terrain and on the east by the highest forested dunes in the world. These, incidentally, contain large deposits of titanium and zirconium, and conservationists waged and won a long-running war with mining consortia over their fate.
The easiest way to explore the lake is to catch a ride on the 85-seat Santa Lucia (bookings advisable; tel. 035/590-1340). The 90-minute guided tours depart four times a day and cost R120. If you're here on a Friday or Saturday, take the 4pm sundowner cruise with a fully licensed bar onboard. The launch point is clearly marked off the R618 east, which leads to St Lucia Village at the mouth of the St Lucia Estuary. The top attraction here is the informative Crocodile Centre, McKenzie Street (tel. 035/590-1387; daily 7:30am-4:30pm; R40, depending on the day). Of the literally hundreds of crocodile parks throughout the country, this is by far the best -- and the only recognized crocodile research facility in South Africa. Arrive at 2pm on a Saturday for a snake presentation, followed by feeding time for the crocs at 3pm. The center houses all of the African species of crocodile -- though you'll certainly spot at least one of the estimated 2,000 Nile crocs that lurk in the lake if you take a cruise on the Santa Lucia. Swimming in the lake, understandably, is strictly prohibited.
There are three guided hiking options in St. Lucia. We recommend the St Lucia Nature trail, which winds through coastal grassland and floodplains, with excellent forest bird sightings and small antelopes. The 8km (5-mile) route starts at the Crocodile Center and lasts 3 hours. The beach hike from Mission Rocks to Bat Cave and back (5km/3 miles) are is also worthwhile.
The only other reason to find yourself in St Lucia Village is because you're on your way to Cape Vidal (tel. 035/590-9012; KZN Reservations tel. 033/845-1000), a 2-hour trip north to the coast. Besides the Umvubu Forest and Imboma trails, which take you over the tallest vegetated dunes in the world, the offshore reef at Cape Vidal makes the sea safe for swimming and ideal for snorkeling, and a whale-watching tower provides an excellent view of passing marine mammals (including 18m/59-ft. whale sharks). Day-visitor numbers to Cape Vidal are restricted to 120 vehicles, so it's worth considering an overnight at the camp. Comprising 18 five-bed and 11 eight-bed log cabins (from R444 double), all well equipped for self-catering (stop for provisions in St Lucia Village) and situated for relative privacy, this is one of the best-value options in the area. The rustic log cabins are shaded under the large forest of casuarinas a stone's throw from the beach and the warm Indian ocean (with an easily accessible tidal pool).
Birders must include a visit to Mkhuze Game Reserve (tel. 035/573-9004; 5am-7pm; R35/vehicle, R35/person), which is connected to the coastal plain via the Mkhuze River. Reached via the N2 (take the Mkhuze Village turnoff; the Emshopi Gate entrance is 28km/17 miles farther), this reserve has 430 species of bird on record and a variety of game, which is indicative of the astonishingly varied vegetation and landscape. Maps are issued at the reception office; don't miss the three bird hides at Nsumo and Nhlonhlela Pans, where you can picnic and watch the changing spectacle on the waterway. This is also the start of the 3km (1.75-mile) circular guided (R100 adults, R50 kids) Mkhuze Fig Forest Walk, one of the area's rarest and most attractive woodlands. This can be booked directly through the Mantuma Camp office (tel. 035/573-9004).
Last but not least of the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park attractions is Sodwana Bay, South Africa's diving mecca. Here the warm Agulhus current brings in some 1,200 varieties of fish, second in number only to Australia's Great Barrier Reef. This is the best place in the country to become a qualified diver, but if you just want to snorkel and bob around in the warm Indian Ocean, head for Jesser Point.
Where to Stay & Dine -- St Lucia Village has a few B&B and small hotel and lodge options, none of them very inspiring (call St Lucia Tourism, an informal bureau run by volunteers, at tel. 035/590-1247 or 035/562-0353, or see for yourself by visiting www.kzn.org.za). A far better option is to stay in one of the privately owned lodges on the western shore, immersed in natural surrounds. The best of these is the exclusive Makakatana Bay Lodge (tel. 035/550-4189; www.makakatana.co.za), in the heart of the St Lucia Wetland Reserve and comprising six privately located suites overlooking the lake. Activities include canoe safaris through the wetlands, snorkeling, full-day safaris in nearby Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, and Zulu dancing at Dumazulu. The all-inclusive rate (all meals and game activities) is R5,360 to R6,000 double. With 12 thatched chalets, Hluhluwe River Lodge (tel. 035/562-0246; www.hluhluwe.co.za) offers similar activities for less money (from R3,880 in high season double, including all meals and activities; R3,200 double, including breakfast). If even this price strikes you as steep, it's worth considering Falaza Game Park, a tented camp on the western dunes of False Bay (tel. 035/562-2319; www.falaza.co.za; from R1,300 double with breakfast; R1,950 double all-inclusive with game drive).
Phinda Private Game Reserve
Bordering the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and adjoining Mkhuze Game Reserve in the south, Phinda is home to the Big 5 and comprises 23,000 hectares (57,000 acres) encompassing seven distinct habitats, including sand forests, mountains, wetlands, and river valleys. Wildlife numbers are not as abundant as in, say, Sabie Sands adjoining Kruger, but most visitors are here for the exceptional range of experiences available, though guests have to stay overnight to gain access. Referred to as Phinda Adventures, these include diving expeditions to the coral reefs at nearby Mabibi and Sodwana, flights over the surrounding Maputaland wilderness (including to Lake Sibaya, the largest freshwater lake in Africa), deep-sea fishing, black-rhino trailing in Mkuzi, turtle-tracking, and canoeing and cruising the Mzinene River. Phinda also offers, without a doubt, the most stylish bush accommodations in KwaZulu-Natal.
Thanda Private Game Reserve
Just 23km (14 miles) north of Hluhluwe, Thanda (which means "love" in Zulu) is another rehabilitated tract of land -- this one the work of Swedish entrepreneur and philanthropist Dan Olofsson. In addition to the usual KZN reserve activities, Thanda provides a broad view of the local culture; guests receive a Zulu bedtime story on their pillow at night, and they can attend a Zulu impi dance performance at Vula Zulu, a traditional Zulu homestead. A shared community project with the backing of King Goodwill Zwelithini, Thanda employs local residents and pays a percentage of proceeds directly to the community.
Maputaland Coastal & Marine Reserves: Mabibi, Rocktail & Kosi Bay
Home of the Tonga, Tembe, and Mabudu peoples, KwaZulu-Natal northeastern seaboard, marketed as the "Elephant Coast," is the most remote part of the province. Large tracts are accessible only on foot, horseback, canoe, or four-wheel-drive, and much of it is off the electrical mainframe. This inaccessibility has protected it from development, and the coastline is absolutely pristine. The entire coastline stretching from Mapelane in the south to Kosi Bay (on the Mozambique border) and extending 5km (3 miles) into the ocean is divided into 2 marine reserves protecting the coastal dune forest and hinterland, beaches, aquatic life, and coral reefs. A minimum 3-day stay is necessary to validate the effort it takes to get here and take advantage of all there is to do: sunbathing, snorkeling, fishing, bird-watching (60% of the birds in South Africa have been recorded here, including the Raffia Palm Nut vulture, one of the rarest birds in the country), canoeing the lakes (avoiding hippos and crocs), sampling ilala palm wine, and getting to know the region's 7,000 species of flora.
South Africa's largest freshwater lake, Lake Sibaya, lies only 10km (6 1/4 miles) north of Sodwana; but if you're headed for Rocktail or Kosi Bay, this is a major detour by road, and there's nothing much to do here but bird-watch or canoe. This in itself may be a major benefit -- besides, on the west side of Sibaya is Mabibi, one of the most remote and beautiful stretches of beach in Africa.
The Kosi Reserve is about 15km (9 1/4 miles) northeast of Kwangwanase via a dirt road. You will, however, need a four-wheel-drive vehicle (and guide) to get to the mouth (some 5km/3 miles from the camp), where one of the most impressive views in the country overlooks Kosi Bay (in reality, an estuary, comprising four lakes linked by a network of channels), which is laced with intricate Tonga fish traps -- a sight unchanged for 7 centuries. Turning back, you can see each of Kosi's four lakes, extending inland for some 20km (12 miles). Nowhere is Zululand's transition between tropical and subtropical more apparent than here. If you have the time and the will to visit, this true wilderness area will not fail to deliver.
Where to Stay & Dine -- The coast's most romantic destination was closed at press time: Thonga Beach Lodge (tel. 035/474-7100; www.isibindiafrica.co.za; R4,090-R4,490) is set amid the coastal milkwood forest with sweeping views over the secluded coral-sand beaches of Mabibi. The luxury thatched-bush suites provide total privacy and were carefully constructed to ensure minimal impact on the environment. The lodge offers luxurious accommodation, mouth-watering meals, and one of the best dive sites in South Africa. Managers Kevin and Bev and their friendly local Thonga staff are enthusiastic and incredibly knowledgeable about the area. They can arrange memorable snorkeling and diving excursions, guided beach or forest walks, sundowner trips on Lake Sibaya, dolphin-encounter boat trips, turtle-tracking, and sea-spa treatments. The lodge will arrange transfers from anywhere in Zululand or the Richard's Bay airport.
An alternative to Thonga is Rocktail Beach Camp, run by respected outfit Wilderness Safaris. Although the beach is a 15-minute walk from the camp and only a few of the rooms have sea views, set back in and shaded by the lush Coastal Sand Forest, the Maputaland Marine Reserve is just offshore and, there is world-class diving and snorkeling to be enjoyed. The camp is simple and unfussy but comfortable, consisting of 12 rooms (including 3 family units), a dining room, bar, and lounge with a wraparound veranda and swimming pool. All have en-suite bathrooms with an indoor shower and overhead fans (tel. 011/257-5111; www.safariadventurecompany.com; from R2,700 double; rates include breakfast and dinner).
A highly recommended add-on to Thonga is a sojourn at sister establishment Kosi Forest Lodge, the only private lodge in the Kosi Bay Nature Reserve -- part of Isimangaliso Wetland Park and an easy 1 1/2-hour drive north of Thonga. This little gem is tucked away amid the coastal dune forest alongside the Siyadla River, which feeds into the Kosi Lake system, one of the world's most pristine estuarine systems. There are eight luxury tented rooms; one is a family room (unit 6), and all have romantic outdoor showers and baths, reminding you that you are really deep in the coastal forest reserve and in one of South Africa's best ecotourist destinations. Kosi Forest Lodge caters to a host of estuarine, beach, and wilderness activities, including guided canoe and boat trips, raffia forest walks, or day excursions to nearby coastal beaches and reserves such as Tembe Elephant Park, with the aptly named Blessing, who has been with the lodge since its inception and hails from the area. His knowledge of local flora and fauna is exceptional, and it is a treat spending time with him in this magical wilderness arena.