Planning a trip to Zurich
Visitor Information
The Zurich Tourist Office, Bahnhofplatz 15 (tel. 044/215-40-00; www.zuerich.com), is in the main railway station. It's open November to April, Monday to Saturday from 8:30am to 7pm and Sunday 9am to 6pm; May to October, hours are Monday to Saturday 8am to 8:30pm and Sunday 8:30am to 6:30pm.
City Layout
Zurich lies situated on both shores of the Limmat River, which flows from the northern end of Lake Zurich. The Sihl River, a tributary of the Limmat, also flows through the city, and quays line the riverbanks and the lake. The city spreads across a ravine in the eastern hills between the wooded slopes of the Zürichberg and Kääferberg hills into the Glatt River Valley.
The hamlet that became Zurich began at the Lindenhof, which is where you, too, may begin your orientation to the city. This square is the architectural center of historic Zurich. From here, you can survey the city as it rises on both banks of the Limmat from Bahnhofbrücke (brücke means bridge) to Quaibrücke. Between these two bridges are four other spans over the river: Muhle-Steg, Rudolf Brun-Brücke, Rathausbrücke, and Münsterbrücke.
Below this square runs Bahnhofstrasse, one of the most elegant and expensive shopping streets in the world. It begins in the north, at the Hauptbahnhof (the railway station), opening onto Bahnhofplatz, and runs south to the lake. It crosses Paradeplatz, a converging point for trams and the modern center of the city. From Paradeplatz continue east, passing Fraumünster church and crossing Münsterbrücke to reach the right bank of the river. Here, the narrow streets of the Limmatquai are the second-best place in the city to shop. Running parallel to Limmatquai is Niederdorfstrasse, in the so-called red-light district of Zurich.
Old Town, or Altstadt, was developed during the early medieval period and is focused on Lindenhof, Fraumünster, Grossmünster, and St. Peter's. It expanded to Weinplatz, the oldest market square, and Strehlgasse. By the 11th century, the city developed on the right bank with such centers as Kirchgasse and Neumarkt.
Finding an Address -- In a system that developed during the Middle Ages, all Swiss cities, including Zurich, begin their street-numbering system with the lowest numbers closest to the center of town. In Zurich the center is the Hauptbahnhof. All even numbers lie on one side of the street, and all odd numbers are on the other.
Maps -- The best map, published by Falk, is a pocket-size Stadtplan (city plan) with an index. Copies are available at various newsstands and bookstores. Try the Travel Book Shop, Rindermarkt 20 (tel. 044/252-38-83; www.travelbookshop.ch). Hours are Tuesday to Friday 10am to 6:30pm, and Saturday 10am to 5pm. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Neighborhoods in Brief
Zurich is divided by the Limmat River into two general areas:
Westor Left Bank
This district is dominated by Bahnhofplatz, center of rail connections, and Bahnhofstrasse, which is the main commercial and banking thoroughfare. This is the Zurich world of high finance and elegant shops. The venerable Fraumünster church, on Fraumünsterstrasse, dominates the west bank. Included within the west bank, but somewhat removed from its sense of high-flying prosperity, is the increasingly visible, increasingly gentrified, warehouse-cum-artmeisters district of Zurich West.
East or Right Bank
Opposite Fraumünster, on the other side of the river, rises Grossmünster church, on Grossmünsterplatz; its two Gothic towers are an east-bank landmark. The historic guildhalls of Zurich, such as the Zunfthaus zur Saffran, rise on the east bank of the river. So, too, does the Rathaus, the city's town hall, completed in 1698. On the east bank you can explore the eastern part of Altstadt, strolling along Neumarkt, one of the best preserved of the old streets. The area beyond is Niederdorf, the center of the town's hot spots.
The Renaissance of Zurich West
Change is in the air, as Züri-West or Zurich West, growing into a chic area, is often compared to New York's SoHo district. In a sector of town becoming rapidly gentrified, Zuri West lies only a 10-minute taxi ride from the heart of Zurich.
Sightseers head for the 19th-century red-brick Löwenbräu Brewery at 270 Limmatstrasse (tel. 044/272-15-15) which has been turned into an art center housing a trio of museums; Kunsthalle (tel. 044/272-15-15), the Migros Museum for Contemporary Art (tel. 044/277-20-50), and the Daros Exhibitions (tel. 044/447-70-00).
If you stick around to go dining and night-clubbing, a "hot" address is Club Indochine, 275 Limmatstrasse (tel. 044/448-11-11; www.club-indochine.com), an elegantly decorated Vietnamese restaurant with tasty, spicy food and a lush interior in spite of its lackluster facade. Monsoon, 180 Förrlibuckstrasse (tel. 043/960-36-36), also travels east for its Asian fusion dishes -- its steak frites are the juiciest in town. The setting is one of tropical prints and towering plants.
After a meal in Zuri West, head for the Schiffbau, 6 Schiffbaustrasse, a former shipbuilding factory containing restaurant and bar, LeSalle (tel. 044/276-80-00), with four theaters, a jazz club, plus Nietturm, a dramatic glass tower bar with panoramic views.
Created from a former parking garage, the sleek new 142-room Park Hyatt, Beethovenstrasse 21 (tel. 043/883-12-34) towers over the financial district. This is not some stodgy chain hotel -- its decor veers toward the Zen and its luxury is edged with contemporary art. Its indoor bamboo garden is a special treat on a gray winter day in Zurich. The Onyx Bar lounge has become a rendezvous point for "making the deal," and the Parkhaus is a first-class restaurant with an open kitchen and a grill menu.
Hotel Plattenhof, Plattenstrasse 26 (tel. 044/251-19-10), is the new designer hotel of Zurich. Its traditional facade belies the minimalist, modern decor inside. Each of the designer rooms is equipped with specially created furniture that is streamlined to create more living space on the high-grade oak parquet flooring. You can even select your own room color by using the Artemide lighting.
Come to Segantini, Ankerstrasse 120 (tel. 044/241-07-00; www.segantini.ch), for both the art and the food. Swiss Artist Ugo Rondinone created a floor-to-ceiling mosaic of mirror shards embedded in gold tile. The chef changes the menu daily to take advantage of the freshest ingredients at the market, such as organic beef and fresh fish. In summer, tables spill over into a trestled courtyard.
A converted warehouse, Rosso, Geroldstrasse, off Hardstrasse (tel. 043/818-22-54), uses the old loading docks as terraces for dining. Discovered by media types, artists, and the fashionistas of Zurich, Rosso specializes in pizzas with paper-thin crusts, savory pasta dishes, and it has one of the best cartes for Italian wines in Zurich. Guests sit at communal tables.
Another "in spot" in Zuri West is Café Spheres, Hardturmstrasse 66 (tel. 043/440-66-22), where Zurichers head for drinks, snacks, and relaxation. The cafe is lined with books and magazines. In summer a grill is set up in the rear, turning out succulent steaks, sausages, and chicken.
Fast Facts
Babysitters -- If enough advance notification is given (at least a day), virtually any hotel in Zurich can arrange for a babysitter. Another option is the child-care facilities at one of Zurich's largest department stores, Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1 (tel. 044/220-44-11; www.jelmoli.ch).
Banks -- Banks are generally open Monday to Wednesday and on Friday from 8:15am to 4:30pm, and on Thursday from 8:15am to 6pm. A convenient bank is Crédit Suisse at Paradeplatz 8 (tel. 044/333-99-11), open Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm.
Consulates -- If you lose your passport or have another emergency, go to the U.S. Consulate, Dufourstrasse 101 (tel. 043/499-29-60). The British, Canadians, and Australians should contact their respective embassies in Bern.
Currency Exchange -- Most banks and travel agencies will exchange money for you. There's also an exchange office of Credit Suisse at the Zurich Hauptbahnhof, the main railway station, open daily from 6:30am to 11:30pm, at Minervastrasse 117. There are ATMs all over the city.
Dentists -- For emergency dental problems, call tel. 044/269-69-69. An appointment with an English-speaking dentist can be arranged for you.
Doctors -- Contact the Zurich Universitätsspital (University Hospital), Rämistrasse 100 (tel. 044/255-11-11).
Drugstores -- For 24-hour service, Bellevue Apotheke, at Theaterstrasse 14 (tel. 044/266-62-22; www.bellevue-apotheke.com), lies off Bellevueplatz.
Emergencies -- Call the police at tel. 117. For first aid, phone tel. 114; for the City Ambulance Service, dial tel. 144. There's an accident center at the University Hospital, Rämistrasse 100 (tel. 044/255-11-11). For a fire, dial tel. 118. Zurich's Bahnhof (main railway station) contains a limited roster of medical and dental facilities which, if they can't treat an ailment effectively themselves, will at least direct you to larger medical facilities that can.
Internet Access -- Head for an Internet cafe such as Telefon-Corner, Kanzleistrasse 57 (tel. 044/297-20-80; www.telefoncorner.ch), open Monday to Thursday 9am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 9am to 2am, and Sunday 10am to 11pm.
Lost Property -- There is a lost-property office at Werdmühlestrasse 10 (tel. 044/412-25-50), open Monday to Friday 7:30am to 5:30pm.
Luggage Storage & Lockers -- These are available at several locations throughout the vast Hauptbahnhof.
Newspapers & Magazines -- The major newspaper of Zurich is the German-language Neue Zürcher Zeitung. The International Herald Tribune is printed in Zurich. Several German-language magazines are published in Switzerland, and the latest copies of Newsweek and Time (European editions) are available at most newsstands and in big-hotel lobbies.
Post Office -- The main post office is the Sihlpost, Kasernenstrasse 95-97 (tel. 0848/88-88-88), across the Sihl River from Löwenstrasse; an emergency-service window is open from 6:30am to 10pm daily. Most post offices -- listed under "Post" in the phone directory -- are open Monday to Friday 7:30am to 6:30pm and on Saturday from 6:30 to 11am.
Safety -- Zurich is one of the safest cities in Europe, both during the day and at night. The most potentially dangerous place is Niederdorf, the red-light district in Altstadt.
Taxes -- A 8% VAT (value-added tax) is added to hotel and restaurant bills. There are no other special taxes.
Telephone, Telex & Fax -- A telephone, telex, and fax office is open at the Zurich Hauptbahnhof, the main railway station, Monday to Friday from 7am to 10:30pm and on Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 9pm.
Toilets -- Public toilets are located at all central points, including the Hauptbahnhof and such locations as Bellevueplatz, Paradeplatz, and Heimplatz. They are open daily, generally from 5am to midnight.
Transit Information -- For bus and tram information, call tel. 0848/988-988 or visit www.vbz.ch.
Getting Around
Zurich is an easy city to navigate, and the trams (streetcars) and buses are reliable.
By Public Transportation
The public transport system of Zurich is operated by ZVV, or Zurich Public Transport (tel. 0848/988-988; www.vbz.ch). The modern and extensive network of trams and buses (there is no subway) runs daily from 5:30am to 12:30am. You should have to wait no longer than 6 minutes during rush hours. Most trams and buses connect at the Zurich Hauptbahnhof, in the heart of the city.
You can buy tickets from automatic vending machines located at every stop. You must have a ticket before you get on a vehicle; if you're caught without one, you'll pay a fine of 80F. The fare is 4.10F for a trip of 1 hour. Visitors can get the most for their money by buying a Tageskarte (1-day ticket), which costs 8.20F and allows you to travel on all city buses and trams for 24 hours.
By Taxi
Taxis are very expensive. The budget-conscious will want to use them only as a last resort. Your hotel will usually be glad to call a taxi for you, but if you're making the call yourself, call Taxi 444 (tel. 044/444-44-44; www.taxi444.ch). The basic charge before you even get into the vehicle is 6F, plus 3.80F for each kilometer you travel.
By Car
We don't recommend attempting to see Zurich by car -- the city is way too congested, and parking is too scarce and too expensive. Save the car for exploring the environs.
Rental Cars -- All the major car-rental firms are represented in Zurich, with offices at both Kloten Airport and downtown. Representative firms include Avis, with offices at Gartenhofstrasse 17 (tel. 044/296-87-87; www.avis.com) or at the airport (tel. 044/800-77-33); Budget, with an office at the airport (tel. 044/800-77-33; www.budget.com); and Hertz, with a base at Morgartenstrasse 5 (tel. 0848/82-20-25; www.hertz.com).
Parking -- You should get a street plan, which indicates parking garages with a P sign; a similar leaflet is available from the Zurich police. Some hotels have their own parking garages, for which there is an extra charge; others, especially those in congested Old Town, do not. You'll have to inquire at your hotel for the location of the nearest public garage. Parking costs range from 6F to 15F per hour in most of the city's public garages.
By Bike
Biking is a good way to get around Zurich, especially in the outlying areas. Bicycles can be rented at the baggage counter of the railway station, the Hauptbahnhof (tel. 051/222-29-04), for 33F per day or 25F for a half-day for a city bike. Hours are daily from 7am to 7:30pm.
On Foot
Zurich and its quays are ideal for walking, and many of the places of interest, such as the sights of Altstadt on both sides of the Limmat, are conveniently grouped together.
Getting There
By Plane
Kloten Airport (tel. 0900/300-313; www.zurich-airport.com), the international airport of Zurich, is the biggest airport in Switzerland and the most popular gateway to the country; in fact, it's among the 10 busiest airports in Europe. The airport is approximately 11km (7 miles) north of the city center, and the trip by taxi costs between 55F and 60F. A far better and cheaper option is to take the Swiss Federal Railways train service. You'll arrive in less than 15 minutes at the Zurich Hauptbahnhof, the main railway station in the center of town. Zurich is a fairly compact town -- from the train station, you can walk or hop on a tram or bus to most Zurich hotels in less than 30 minutes. The train ticket from the airport to the main railway station costs 6.40F in second class, 10.60F in first class. A 24-hour version of the same ticket costs 24F in second class, 40F in first class. The train runs every 15 to 20 minutes between 5:02am and 12:41am. You can also take bus no. 768 (Zurich Airport-Seebach), but you'll have to change to tram no. 14 to get to the center of town.
By Train
Several trains bound for Switzerland leave from the Gare de l'Est in Paris. Two nonstop trains leave from Paris to Zurich daily, taking 6 hours. There are also good links between Austria and Switzerland, with trains arriving from Salzburg in 6 hours or Vienna in 9 hours. The best connection from Italy is via Milan (4 1/2 hr.). Trains to Zurich run every hour from Geneva (a 3-hr. journey) and from Basel (1 1/4 hr.). From Munich, high-speed express trains depart for Zurich frequently. All trains arrive at the Zurich Hauptbahnhof (tel. 0900/300-300; www.sbb.ch).
By Bus
Zurich's bus routes function only as feeder lines from outlying suburbs, which lie off the train lines, into the vicinity of the town's railroad station.
By Car
From Basel, take N3 east, and from Geneva, take N1 northeast, going via Bern, where you'll connect with E4 and E17 heading east into Zurich.
By Boat
The Zurichsee-Schifffahrtsgesellschaft, Mythenquai 333 (tel. 044/487-13-33; www.zsg.ch), offers regularly scheduled service on modern passenger ships as well as old steamers plying both sides of Lake Zurich. The service is operated year-round, going from Zurich as far as Rapperswil.
