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What's in season at the local market determines the menu of this trendy restaurant in a converted 19th-century warehouse. Its minimalist décor, lofty windows, and whitewashed walls form a sort of blank canvas for the bold dishes served here, which might include ricotta gnocchi with a tomato confit; braised veal shoulder with morel mushrooms and a Sardinian risotto; and roast leg of lamb with a Provençal herb sauce. Everything bursts with the colors, flavors, and fragrances of the Mediterranean. The candlelit cellar holds hundreds of wines from around the world, and you can savor a glass at the longest bar in town, accompanied by a tempting choice of charcuterie and cheeses. Reservations are a very good idea.