The Towns of Coastal Maine

If three days in Maine are good, a week is even better. That's about enough time to take the two regions of the Maine coast: southern Maine ("down there," also sometimes referred to as "Vacationland" or "not Maine") and Downeast ("up there" or "the real Maine"). The two regions are as different as night and day; the gourmet cuisine, fine cars, and luxury inns of the south coast gradually give way to cottages and fried fish. This tour will take you through both.

Photo Caption: Cyclists in Dock Square in Kennebunk, ME.

The town of York is split into several neighborhoods, each with its own charms. On this tour, though, we'll just head straight for the beaches: Don't miss either Long Sands or Short Sands beaches. And a visit here isn't complete without a swing by Nubble Light, a beacon to ships and a magnet to photographers.

Photo Caption: Long Sands Beach in York, ME.

Be sure to visit the Ogunquit Museum of American Art, and stretch your legs or catch some rays at Ogunquit Beach.

Photo Caption: Sculpture on the grounds of Ogunquit Museum of American Art in Ogunquit, ME.

Spend some time on Kennebunk Beach, before checking out Kennebunkport's Dock Square. Cap the day with a 15-minute sunset drive out to scenic Walker's Point.

Photo Caption: A horse-drawn carriage in Dock Square in Kennebunk, ME.

Maine's biggest city is an absolute must-see on almost any tour of the state, even if it's just for an afternoon or a day: There's more history, food, and architecture than first appears here. At an absolute minimum, check out the Old Port and Commercial Street, plus the restaurants in that neighborhood; the fine Portland Museum of Art; and the ocean view from Eastern Promenade Park.

Photo Caption: The harbor of Portland, ME.

One of our favorite small towns in the southern half of Maine, Brunswick manages to be erudite -- the beautiful quadrant-based campus of Bowdoin College and two great little museums are located here. But it's also fairly lovely, with a proud Maine Street, a big park, old churches, and a great collection of whitewashed 19th-century architecture -- stroll down Federal Street to see some of the best of it.

Photo Caption: Bowdoin College in Brunswick, ME.

The big claim to fame in Bath is shipbuilding (notice that huge crane looming over the town bridge as you approach or depart); whether you're intrigued by that sort of history or not, this little city is worth a few hours to a half day. The Maine Maritime Museum just south of the downtown district showcases the old art in all its glory, and runs actual boat trips from time to time to supplement the museum. Meanwhile, the handsome Washington Street (and Front Street historic districts are easily worth a half-hour walk each for their architecture and the occasional shop and cafe.

Photo Caption: Maine Maritime Museum in Bath, ME.

The Midcoast's unofficial working-class capital is a good place to get a bite at a surprisingly upscale restaurant like Primo; glimpse yachts, fishing boats, schooners, and tall ships all in one harbor, at Harbor Park; and stroll a Main Street that actually still looks like, well, a main street. Art lovers, take special note -- you will kick yourself eternally if you don't spend at least an hour at the Farnsworth Museum, one of Maine's finest thanks to its comprehensive collections of Maine art.

Photo Caption: Farnsworth Museum in Rockland, ME.

Put simply: the twee cousin to Rockland's denim jeans and dockline rope. The stretch of U.S. Rte. 1 running down Elm Street into the center of Camden, then back up out of town -- now Main Street -- tells you that you've switched gears. It's a mixture of old homes, B&B elegance, fishy chowder houses, tall ships, the sturdy Camden Opera House, and shops purveying anything from nautical souvenirs to T-shirts; it gets crowded, but never feels artificial. The lovely Camden Public Library and its adjacent natural amphitheater (known as Harbor Park) overlooking the harbor only add to the fun.

Photo Caption: Camden Harbour Inn in Camden, ME.

Begin your time here at Agamont Park, which looks out onto the islands of Frenchman Bay. Next, stretch your legs along the Shore Path. This little gem passes opulent "cottages" as it winds along a billion-dollar waterfront. It begins at the Bar Harbor Inn, itself a fine example of the form with knockout views from its dining room and many guest rooms. But on the Shore Path, you get nearly the same view -- for the price of your pair of sneakers.

Photo Caption: Agamont Park in Bar Harbor, ME.

There's a lot to see and do here. Begin at Sand Beach, one of Maine's nicest beaches. It does actually have some sand -- plus views of several mountains and the open ocean. If you have time, explore the Sand Beach and Great Head walking trails that both depart from the east end of the beach. The Sand Beach trail threads gently inland through the woods away from the water, while the latter trail climbs the adjacent cliffs; you'll see plenty of plant, bird, and flower life on either one. Wrap up your day with a stop at Thunder Hole, where crashing waves can send plumes 30 feet or more into the air -- or can be an absolute dud if there's no wave action in the bay.

Photo Caption: Hikers resting near the Bubbles in Acadia National Park, ME.

Southwest Harbor stands just a mile across the fjord from Northeast Harbor, but it takes almost half an hour to get from one to the other by car. (By boat? It would be 2