Ian White
By Mark Hiss
It's easy to think of San Diego as just a relaxing place to go for surf and sun because, well ... it is. But beyond the inviting beaches and year-round pleasant weather, San Diego offers a sophistication that's casual and cool, and something far removed from the animal attractions and military bases for which the city was once primarily known.
If it has been a few years since you've journeyed to California's southwestern corner, you'll be in for a shock: Entire neighborhoods have been transformed, with cutting-edge architecture rising alongside meticulously preserved Victorian buildings; serious chefs, brewers and mixologists have upped the food and beverage ante; and young creatives have brought a jolt of energy to the local art scene.
Photo Caption: Balboa Park in San Diego, California.
Move over, Portland, OR ... San Diego is now the nation's top craft brewery city. So said Men's Journal magazine—and with more than a few dozen (and counting) breweries, numerous medals awarded to local suds at beer competitions, and stylish brewpubs and tasting rooms popping up around the county, it's hard to argue the claim. Stone Brewery is San Diego's king of beers, and the Stone Brewing World Bistro & Gardens, 1999 Citracado Pkwy., (tel. 760/294-7866; www.stoneworldbistro.com) should be high on every beer connoisseurs' list; also of note, highly regarded Green Flash Brewing Company (pictured), featuring a warehouse-industrial tasting room and beer garden, at 6550 Mira Mesa Blvd. (tel. 858/622-0085; www.greenflashbrew.com). Don't want to drink and drive? Let Brewery Tours of San Diego (tel. 619/961-7999; www.brewerytoursofsandiego.com) or Brew Hop (tel. 858/361-8457; www.brewhop.com) shuttle you.
While San Francisco may be universally acknowledged as California's gay capital, San Diego, too, proudly flies its rainbow flag. Despite a reputation for political conservatism, San Diego nonetheless ended up on The Advocate magazine's list of "Gayest Cities in America." And it's no wonder. San Diego's Pride Parade and Festival (www.sdpride.org), held in July, is one of the largest such events in the country; it's also perhaps the city's biggest civic event, drawing some 150,000 people. There's also the annual San Diego Gay Rodeo (www.sandiegorodeo.org); stunning Black's Beach for nude sunbathing (try that in foggy San Francisco); and welcoming Hillcrest, the urbane neighborhood where you'll find numerous gay and omnisexual clubs, bars, restaurants, and boutiques.
While San Diego has never had a reputation as a major art city, young creative types are dispelling the notion that no interesting work is produced here. Don't look for it in the galleries of La Jolla, though -- the new hotbed of activity is in Barrio Logan. Thanks to its cheaper rents and industrial spaces, this scruffy neighborhood south of downtown has become home to art and design collectives like The Glashaus, 1815 Main St. (619/278-8455, theglashus.com). Barrio Logan is also the location of San Diego's most important homegrown artworks, the internationally acclaimed Chicano Park murals (pictured), at National Ave. and Dewey St. (www.chicano-park.org). Grab a bite at Las Cuatro Milpas, 1875 Logan Ave. (619/234-4460), one of San Diego's most legendary Mexican eateries.
Don't want to rub elbows with conventioneers in the Gaslamp Quarter? Go see the locals in their native habitat, drinking and dining in North Park. This working-class neighborhood, located just northeast of Balboa Park, has been revived over the last several years, and now boasts an ever-growing collection of rewarding restaurants and bars. The renaissance began in earnest with the 2005 reopening of the beautifully restored Birch North Park Theatre, now the Observatory, 2891 University Ave. (619/239-8836; www.observatorysd.com) and has grown to include other performance spaces and several galleries. Check out the scene during the monthly Ray at Night Art Walk (second Saturday of the month).
It's easy to think of San Diego as just a relaxing place to go for surf and sun because, well ... it is. But beyond the inviting beaches and year-round pleasant weather, San Diego offers a sophistication that's casual and cool, and something far removed from the animal attractions and military bases for which the city was once primarily known.
If it has been a few years since you've journeyed to California's southwestern corner, you'll be in for a shock: Entire neighborhoods have been transformed, with cutting-edge architecture rising alongside meticulously preserved Victorian buildings; serious chefs, brewers and mixologists have upped the food and beverage ante; and young creatives have brought a jolt of energy to the local art scene.
Photo Caption: Balboa Park in San Diego, California.