Best of Buenos Aires: 14 Favorite Moments

By Neil Edward Schlecht
Buenos Aires has become one of the hottest destinations in the world. After yet another economic crisis and currency devaluation made it almost absurdly cheap for non-Argentines, visitors rushed in to discover the most European-looking of South American capitals. And with it, the penchant of Porteños (as the locals are called) for massive steaks, fine malbec wines, old cafes, and chic boutiques -- and a resurgent national dance, the tango. The following are some of my favorite experiences in the Argentine capital.

Photo Caption: Tango dancers at a milonga on Plaza Dorrego in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

joelmann

Reveling in la Milonga

Out of fashion until the last decade or so, tango is once again the soundtrack to life in Buenos Aires. Chic youngsters and wizened veterans gather at late-night milongas in time-worn ballrooms, and whether in jeans or stylish skirts and pumps, they embrace and move to a passionate rhythm unique to Argentina. It's intoxicating to watch, but tango's precise, stylized moves are likely to make novices feel ridiculously clumsy. There are a half-dozen great milongas, but one of the best is El Niño Bien.

Photo Caption: Tango dancers at a milonga in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

jjay69

Reliving Evita's Cult of Personality

Evita Perón's (1919-1952) fame hasn't dimmed nearly 60 years after her death. She rose to unexpected power alongside her husband, trade unions, and the Peronista party, and became a towering national figure, inspiring a Broadway play, a Hollywood movie, and legions of fans. The city is home to her discrete tomb in Recoleta Cemetery, the Casa Rosada -- scene of her famous speeches to Argentine workers -- and now the wonderfully personal Evita Museum.

Photo Caption: The family grave of Eva Peron at La Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

suzannehitchen

Joining the Masses -- or the Elites

If you're a fútbol (soccer) fan, or just a student of group behavior, you can't miss an opportunity to attend a match featuring one of Buenos Aires's two top teams. Don war paint in blue and yellow, and root for Boca Juniors at La Bombonera stadium; or wear red and black, and scream for River Plate. Of course, if fútbol seems too lowbrow, you could always join the jetset at their favorite springtime diversion, a polo match.

Photo Caption: Fans at the La Bombonera soccer stadium in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

carlosvanvegas

Tiptoeing Through a City of the Dead

Stunning La Recoleta Cemetery is the final resting place of Buenos Aires's most elite citizenry, from Presidents and Generals to one Evita Perón. The elaborate tombs are monuments to their achievements and immense family wealth, mausoleums dripping with neo-Classical, Art Nouveau, and Baroque art, topped by somber marble angels and cherubs gazing skyward.

Photo Caption: La Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

scaredykat

Getting Your Expat On

Buenos Aires suddenly became the new Prague after the peso devaluation in 2002, and though the city is no longer as dirt-cheap as it once was, it's still a value destination full of foreigners living beyond their normal means. Hang out at the most exclusive restaurants and clubs, such as Casa Cruz -- where it's fashionable to speak English, Italian, or French -- and live it up for a fraction of the cost of New York, Rome, or Paris.

Photo Caption: Cocktails at Casa Cruz in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

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Drinking in History at a Bar Notable

Buenos Aires is renowned for its cafe culture, and many of the city's classic bars and cafes -- resonant with a patina of age and events both momentous and small -- date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The government has protected 53 of them -- including the legendary Tortoni -- from development's onward march. They're places to sip a cortado and take in life at an institution held dear by locals, young and old.

Photo Caption: Cafe Tortoni. Photo by Jerome Richard/Frommers.com Community

blmurch

Leaving the City Behind

Besides its wide avenues and Belle Epoque architecture, Buenos Aires overflows with green spaces. Just behind the towering skyscrapers still going up in Puerto Madero is the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, a reserve of marshland leading down to the muddy Río de la Plata. The residential neighborhood of Palermo is distinguished by extensive parks and gardens, where Porteños go to show off their toned bodies on a track around a pair of lakes.

Photo Caption: Reserva Ecologica Costanera Sur in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

anijdam

Zooming to the Top of Palacio Barolo

Mario Palanti's spectacular 1923 neo-Gothic skyscraper, the Palacio Barolo, is impressive and unique from the street, but if you pop inside, you'll get a treat few Porteños have even experienced. Beyond the sumptuous lobby and gorgeous old-fashioned elevators are upper-floor terraces with stunning panoramic views of all of Buenos Aires.

Photo Caption: The view from the top of Palacio Barolo in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

joelmann

Loading Up On Boutique Shopping

Leather is king in Buenos Aires, of course, so luxurious, handmade bags and shoes are the hot items to score. But you might also come back with a sheepskin rug or gaucho-cool cowhide, bought for a fraction of what they might cost at home. Trendy boutiques in Palermo Viejo, such as Humawaca, are some of the chicest and most visually creative you'll see, meriting a stroll even if you're not buying.

Photo Caption: Shopping in Palermo Viejo, Buenos Aires, Argentina.

thomashobbs

Riding the A Train

Buenos Aires's subway line is the oldest in South America. The A line, which retains the original 1913 cars that rumble beneath Avenida de Mayo, from the Plaza in front of the Casa Rosada to the House of Congress, is a charming relic, a wood-paneled ride back in time.

Photo Caption: Riding the A subway line in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

bittermelon

Attacking Argentine Grass-Fed Beef

In this land of cattle and wide-open spaces, Argentines live for red meat, which many wolf down at every meal. And that's something in a place where steaks tend to be the size of the family pet. Parrilladas -- grilled-meat feasts encompassing virtually every cut of meat you've ever heard of and some you'd never consider eating -- are the backbone of the Argentine diet and something carnivores have to experience at a parrilla restaurant like La Cabrera.

Photo Caption: Parrilladas at La Cabrera in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

amazelin

Taking in Springtime Down South

Hit Buenos Aires in spring -- the onset of the dead of winter in the northern hemisphere and one of the best times to visit the city. It turns redolent with the fragrance of jacaranda, jasmine, and magnolia. Wherever you look, trees blossom with the brilliant lavender color of jacarandas and deep-red ceibo, the national flower of Argentina. The scene's best in the wide-open green spaces of the Parque Tres de Febrero.

Photo Caption: Parque Tres de Febrero in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

escapist

Hob-Knobbing With la Gente Bella

Buenos Aires teems with beautiful people, and restaurants, bars, and shops in the most fashionable districts are the runways where they strut their stuff. Stay in their midst at an uber-cool boutique hotel such as Hotel Home Buenos Aires in Palermo Viejo.

Photo Caption: Hotel Home in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Eduardo Amorim

Playing Gaucho at an Estancia