Alaska by Ferry: See Incredible Places for a Fraction of What Cruises Cost

I honestly don't know what made me open my eyes. Traveling aboard one of Alaska’s state ferries from Juneau to Petersburg, I'd dozed off in the outdoor solarium—enjoying the mix of fresh air, gently thrumming ferry engines, and warming heat lamps.

But something awakened me, and as I sat up from my sleeping bag, the very first thing I saw was a humpback whale breaching off the stern of the boat.

The ensuing SPLASH was the first of many. As I sat there and stared, other whales leapt, spy-hopped, and slapped fins and tails on the surface of the water. That display remains one of the most spectacular things I've ever seen.

While there's no guarantee that you'll spot whales breaching by the dozens every time you hop on an Alaska state ferry, what you can count on is experiencing a true cross section of Alaska life. On any given ferry ride, you'll find locals commuting for shopping trips, medical appointments, high school sports, or just a fun day out—plus visitors like yourself who are hip to this fun, boots-on-the-ground means of travel.

Pictured above: humpback whale breaching in Alaska's Frederick Sound

State ferries are such a vital transit link between remote Alaska communities that the system receives federal highway funding. Collectively, the ferry service is known as the Alaska Marine Highway System. It can take you to many of the same places cruise ships go, through much of the same scenery—at a fraction of the price.

If you'd like to explore Southeast Alaska the way locals do, the state’s capital city, Juneau, makes the perfect hub for ferry travel. With about a dozen daily flights arriving from Seattle alone, you can easily spend a few days exploring Juneau, then hop on a ferry headed to any of the six rewarding destinations that follow. 

Pictured above: Alaska state ferry in Hoonah

Prior to boarding a ferry, be sure to check out a few of the best attractions in Juneau. At a minimum, you’ll want to see the Mendenhall Glacier, the Alaska State Museum, the harborside Seawalk with its life-size statue of a humpback whale, and Sealaska Heritage Institute's spectacular Walter Soboleff Center, a showcase for museum-quality traditional Alaska Native craftsmanship. There's a great gift shop right next door where you can shop for souvenirs. 

Now let's see some amazing places the ferry can take you. 

To grossly paraphrase local history, Petersburg was founded by Norwegian fisherman who spotted the plentiful supply of icebergs nearby—castoffs from the mighty LeConte Glacier—and thought, Ja, that's the perfect material for preserving our catch. They were right, and the result was a fishing town that continues to thrive today. 

Large cruise ships often pass Petersburg by due to the challenges of navigating nearby waters in vessels of that size. That makes visits here an unparalleled opportunity to sample authentic small-town Alaska, with Norwegian touches such as decorative rosemaling on the sidewalks and storefronts. A Viking ship replica, the Valhalla, is on display outside the Sons of Norway Hall (pictured above). Petersburg even has its own bunad, a form of traditional Norwegian clothing that reflects a region, era, culture, or all of the above. You can see examples in the city museum.

Other valuable ways to spend your time here: whale-watching, sea kayaking, and sampling fresh seafood.

Ferry travel time: 8 hours from Juneau, usually overnight
Travel planning: Expect to stay 5 days in Petersburg before the return ferry, or hop a quick Alaska Airlines flight back to Juneau any time.

Somehow, Haines strikes the magic balance of receiving big cruise ships without losing its small town charm. The shops are still locally owned, and residents seem genuinely pleased to see visitors. Independent hotel staff and B&B hosts, in particular, are rightfully proud of sharing their beautiful hometown with people passing through.

You absolutely must see the nearby Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, where hundreds of bald eagles congregate during the winter. The quirky little Hammer Museum displays thousands of examples of what might be humankind's most essential tool. And if you head over to nearby Klukwan, you can pay a visit to the Jilkaat Kwaan Heritage Center for a guided tour of a vibrant First Nations community.

Ferry travel time: 5 hours from Juneau on a daytime schedule. If you decide to ferry onward to Skagway, it's just another hour from Haines.
Travel planning: The ferry docks are out of town and private shuttle/taxi service is often spotty, so it’s wise to book accommodations that offer their own shuttle service. During high season you can expect daily ferries from Juneau, or hop one of the daily trips to Skagway and make a loop of it, returning to Juneau afterward.

Skagway's biggest attraction is Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, which fills several blocks of downtown with historic buildings and re-creations of notable characters from the Klondike Gold Rush of the late 19th century. The Days of '98 theater show is a notoriously funny stroll through the era. Stop in at the Red Onion Saloon (pictured above) to peruse the Brothel Museum.

During the day, the historical park fills up with crowds of cruise ship passengers. It's amazing how quiet the area gets during early mornings and late nights by comparison. While the vast majority of visitors stay within the invisible boundaries of the historical park, it's well worth exploring the blocks beyond, where you'll find lots of locally owned shops. Take time to chat with residents; Skagway's arts community is especially worth seeking out.

Make time as well for a visit to the nearby ghost town of Dyea, and take a trip on the historic narrow-gauge White Pass & Yukon Route Railway. The scenery is stellar as the train retraces historic Gold Rush routes and on some trips passes into Canada (check with the railroad to see whether you’ll need your passport). 

Ferry travel time: 7 hours from Juneau or just an hour from nearby Haines, on a daytime schedule
Travel planning: Skagway has daily ferry service to and from both Haines and Juneau. The ferry terminal is very close to the cruise ship terminals; both are practically downtown.

Hoonah is the state's largest Tlingit community, set in the middle of the largest national forest in the U.S. At the must-visit Yaakw Kahidi Cultural Center, you can see examples of traditional music, dance, and other arts, and learn more about Tlingit culture. 

The wildly popular Icy Strait Point, owned by the local Huna Totem Corporation, is a hub for tours and outdoor activities such as whale-watching, ATV excursions, a zip line, and more. Though used mostly by cruise passengers, the center has many options for independent travelers, too.

Ferry travel time: A little more than 3 hours from Juneau, on a daytime schedule
Travel planning: Plan to stay 4 days before the next ferry comes through, or hop one of the daily flights from Alaska Seaplanes back to Juneau.

Although Glacier Bay National Park is one of Alaska’s most popular cruise destinations, many passengers on those vessels never enter gateway Gustavus at all, giving those who travel here by ferry a chance to see a town unencumbered by overtourism despite all the many tourists nearby. 

That said, the lack of tourism infrastructure in Gustavus should persuade you to consider staying in one of the area’s all-inclusive lodges. That way, you’ll have your meals and ground transportation covered, and lodge staff members can help you book activities.

Of course, the main attraction is the national park, which has wonders on land and water alike. Be sure to take a boat tour and hike the trails surrounding Bartlett Cove to experience some of Southeast Alaska’s most impressive mountains, glaciers, fjords, and wildlife. 

Ferry travel time: 6 hours from Juneau, daytime schedule
Travel planning: Ferries pass through Gustavus every 3 or 4 days—just about the perfect length of time to explore Glacier Bay National Park. You can also hop on daily flights back to Juneau operated by Alaska Airlines and Alaska Seaplanes.

With a population of more than 8,000, Sitka is a veritable metropolis compared to the other places on this list. The town evinces a unique blend of Tlingit, Russian, and American influences, with the Russian and Native sides most evident at historical sites and in traditional dance performances.

Hit the harbor walk to reach many key attractions, including Sitka National Historical Park, where you can learn from traditional Alaska Native artists and follow winding "totem trails" through the rainforest.

Sitka’s rainy climate makes for beautifully green backdrops for hikes and day cruises to see whales and other wildlife—just don’t forget to pack your rain gear. 

Though this is a bustling cruise port, shops and businesses are mostly locally owned. Jump at any opportunity to take one of Sitka's Tribal Tours. Other key attractions include the Fortress of the Bear and the Alaska Raptor Center, where you can see rescued and rehabilitated wildlife.

Ferry travel time: 10 hours from Juneau, usually starting in the middle of the night and arriving around noon
Travel planning: The ferry terminal is several miles out of town, but Sitka has fairly robust taxi services that can help if your accommodations don't offer shuttle service. Plan to spend about 6 days in Sitka before your return ferry to Juneau, or book one of several daily flights from Alaska Airlines.

• Most of Alaska's ferry routes run year-round, but service frequency is greatly reduced during the winter. For the most options, book for travel during the high season of May to September.

• Ferry docks are often (although not always) a distance out of town, and most ports don't have public transportation to the docks. Booking accommodations that offer shuttle service can sometimes save you as much as $70 in round-trip taxi fees.

• You can take a vehicle on the ferry. But unless budget is not a factor, bringing a car isn’t recommended. Vehicle berths fill up quickly and tend to be more expensive than just renting a car in each community. With no vehicle, you always have the option of hopping on a plane if your ferry is delayed rather than waiting for days until the next boat comes along.

• There are a few ferry routes in Southcentral and Southwest Alaska, too. For an easy adventure, take the 11-hour ferry ride from Homer to Kodiak. Or rent a car in Anchorage, load it onto the 6-hour ferry from Whittier to Valdez, and then make the beautiful drive back to Anchorage to complete a loop around Prince William Sound. (This would be the one big exception to the advice against taking vehicles on ferries.)

For more information or to start planning a trip, go to the website of the Alaska Marine Highway System.