How to Bike Normandy’s D-Day Beaches: A Car-Free Side Trip from Paris

Beyond their historical significance, Normandy’s D-Day beaches are quite simply beautiful. The stark and ever-changing light on the vast water creates a palette of colors that makes you understand why all those Impressionist painters rushed to the Norman seaside to set up their easels. 

The enormity of the setting echoes the enormity of what happened there on June 6, 1944, when the Allied forces mobilized some 160,000 troops to go head-to-head with terrible weather and German artillery. The cost in human life was enormous, both to soldiers and locals. It was bloody and horrific, but it also signaled the beginning of the end of World War Two. 

Today, you can still find eerie remains of the battles, like the German cannon and blockhauses at Longues-sur-Mer, and plenty of memorials and museums scattered along the coastline—and it’s possible to see much of it in a busy day thanks to the speed of e-bikes.

These storied beaches are not all that far from Paris—around 270 kilometers (168 miles), so they make for a nice side trip. Here’s how to do it, including where to rent your bike, which routes to take, and what to do if you don’t feel like returning to Paris on the same day.

Bayeux (pictured above), a lovely medieval town and one of the few in the area that was not wrecked by the fighting in the Second World War, is the unofficial gateway to the D-Day beaches, which are less then 10 miles away. The town itself merits exploration. Not only is there the sumptuous cathedral of Notre-Dame de Bayeux, but it is also the home of the famous Bayeux Tapestry, an amazing 11th-century embroidered recounting of another invasion—that of England by William the Conqueror in 1066. Like a graphic novel in textile, the tapestry tells the story in intricate detail on one very long (226 feet) and not very wide (20 inches) cloth, which is beautifully displayed and lit in a dedicated museum. 

You get to Bayeux from Paris by train. The regional line that takes you to Bayeux from Paris (final destination: Cherbourg) uses new double-decker wagons complete with Wi-Fi, outlets, and comfortable seats. Book a seat upstairs for the best view. There are several direct trains a day to Bayeux (duration: around 2 and a half hours) from Paris Gare Saint-Lazare that cost anywhere from €18–37 (US $20–$41) each way, depending on the hour, your age, and how early you book.

Make your life easier by booking via an app like Trainline or via the French railway’s SNCF-Connect (it has an English-language version, but is sometimes is buggy when it comes to foreign credit cards). You can also book in person at any Paris railway station. 

 

There is no train service from Bayeux to the small towns on the coast, and bus service is limited, although the region has been experimenting with a D-Day bus line during the summer months. To see the D-Day sights, many Americans take organized tours from Bayeux in motor vehicles, and if that's what you want, there are several outfits that will cater to your needs at every price level. 

However, there is another, more delightful idea: la petite reine, otherwise known as the bicycle. 

There is only one bike rental outfit in Bayeux, but it’s a full-service one. Locvelo has a large stock of high-quality cycles, including e-bikes and kid-sized bikes. The prices (in 2024) are reasonable: €28 (US $31) per day for a sturdy “trekking” bike and €45 (US $50) per day for an e-bike.

Because of their power-assisted propulsion, e-bikes are by far the preferable option for seeing sights faster—your route will be at least 17 miles—and with less strenuous physical exertion.

Lovelo’s rentals come with helmets, side bags, repair kits, and combination locks so you can secure your bike while you tour on foot. They also come with the helpful advice of owner/cyclist Jean-Batiste and his right-hand-man Justin, who will enthusiastically help you organize your itinerary with the GPS-powered info on an app (Komoot) that tells you where to go so you don’t need to stop to look at a map to find your route. 

Find picnic goodies for your bike ride at Bayeux’s open-air market (Saturdays at place Saint-Patrice or Wednesdays on rue Saint-Jean), or pick up a sandwich at one of the bakeries in the town center, like Boulangerie Capucine, an organic bakery. You can also take oyster breaks at one of the beachfront restaurants along the route.

The Bayeux-Bessin tourist office promotes two routes that take you from Bayeux to the D-Day beaches. I rode the first, and easiest (27km; 17 miles) option. It's called Loop 5 on the tourist office's website, which isn't consistently translated to English, but when you rent your bikes, Locvelo will set you up with very clear directions before you set off. 

The route follows dedicated bike paths and tiny country roads with barely any traffic. I pedaled past farms, through tiny villages, and under shady trees on my way to the seaside. When I reached the waterfront cliffs, I was greeted with stunning views of the Channel. 

The bike path then gently makes its way down to the town of Arromanches and Gold Beach, where the Allies built their temporary port. The route took me along the coast to Longues-sur-Mer to visit the cannon of the German Battery, before making its way back to Bayeux. 

 

If you have the time and the energy, a longer loop (39km, or 24 miles) takes you to Port-en-Bessin and Omaha Beach with a stop at the Normandy American Cemetery (pictured above) at Colleville-sur-Mer. This longer route is vaguely called Loop 33 by the local tourist authorities, but Lovcelo will supply you much clearer instructions when you rent your cycle. 

Truly hardy cyclists can plot a 50-mile-plus itinerary that goes all the way to Utah beach by using the help of Lovcelo's Justin and Jean-Baptiste, or on their own using the Vélomaritime website.

Locvelo can arrange bike delivery to a Bayeux hotel (a good idea, as the rental agency is a long walk from the center of town), one-way drop offs at bike stores in towns along the coast, and baggage and bicycle transfers. For any of that, make sure to call or email a few days ahead; most basic reservations can be made directly on its website.

For those who don’t want to worry about arranging anything themselves, La Petite Reine offers organized e-bike rides with a leader. Prices range from €119 to €229 (US $132–$255) per person for trips of 3 to 9 hours. Its guide and owner, Hugo, was born and raised in Normandy and knows the history and the terrain comme sa poche (like his pocket). He’ll take you to the historic sites as well as his favorite spots. The “Food Tour” version of his trip is a gourmand's adventure that includes local delicacies like Pont-l’Évêque cheese and cider. 

The last train back to Paris generally departs Bayeux around 8pm, but if you want to make the most of the town and the beaches, you’ll probably want to spend the night. There is a range of small hotels in Bayeux, many of which will not make excessive demands on your budget.

Whatever you do, if you plan on dining in Bayeux in the evening, reserve ahead. Restaurants are small and book up quickly. 

Now you are ready. Just be sure to bring along a bit of rain gear, as Normandy is known for its drizzle. The good news is even if the weather on the seaside is wet, it is also very changeable, and what might look like permanent gloom in the morning can lead to brilliant sunshine in the afternoon. 

Other necessities: a good pair of walking shoes, a sweater/jumper, a water bottle—and a desire to enjoy the Normandy countryside up close, without windshields, fuel stations, or traffic.

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