July 2004 -- A romantic and magical aura enshrouds trains. Hearing the whistle, watching the sunset over the Pacific from the Starlight Express, even feeling a gritty subway token sets me off on a nostalgic road trip.
Train travel is ideal for contemplation. Devoid of distractions such as keeping your eyes on the road, you are alone with your own thoughts and the scenery. How many of us quickly find our eyes roaming from the page to the window where the view and motion make for seductive hypnotism. The view often includes sites and places inaccessible by any other means of transport, one goes through mountain forests, next to expansive oceans, even overlook electrified city skylines.
When train travel was eclipsed by speed and smog, many of the old routes lay in waste, sacrificed for faster, more efficient workhorses. In the sixties, people started to convert these old routes into public trails for biking, hiking, rollerblading and walking. A grateful public coined these conversions rails-to-trails and in 1986 an official not-for-profit of the same name was born.
In the ensuing 20 years, the organization has not only increased the number of trails to over 1,000 and developed a goal of 15,000 miles of trails by 2004 (the equivalent of going from New York to California and back three times) but has become a potent political voice in US environmental preservation. When the house appropriations committee decided to put all the funds they annually invest in bicycle and pedestrian projects ($600 million) towards the $4.5 billion increase in highway funds, the Rails to Trails Conservancy sacrificed their summer vacation to make sure the funds stayed put -- and they did.
Universal accessibility make the trails particularly appealing. Sure, there are some for die-hard hikers or mountain bikers (the appropriately named Virginia Creeper comes to mind). But thanks to physics (trains do best on relatively flat terrain), asphalt, tolerance (unlike national parks dogs and are more than welcome) and location (the prior ubiquity of train travel means most people live within a few miles of a trail) many are perfect for people on wheels (wheelchairs too.), after work work-outers, and those of us whose idea of strenuous physical exertion is bringing the Times inside on a Sunday.
Here are three of my favorite trails, complete with some suggested side itineraries and places to stay. They were chosen for diversity and scenery. Only trails in the densely populated states are presented because other states (i.e. Utah, Alaska, the South, the West) with more national park lands and fewer trains have few rails to trails (R2T).
Rural Retreat: Virginia Creeper Trail (Abington, Virginia)
Abington Virginia is either the poster child for Southern romance or a traditional British town transplanted by tornado. For a city dweller like myself Abington is so anachronistic it seems that would be just as feasible a way to arrive as by car. The town is so enchanting we didn't actually discover the trail until the last day of our trip.
Stay at the Martha Washington Inn (tel. 888/888-5252; www.marthawashingtoninn.com) an illustrious colonial mansion that has at different times been a home for actors from the Barton theatre across the street, a college for girls, a training barracks and hospital during the Civil War (for both sides.), and has received such notable guests as Eleanor Roosevelt, Harry Truman, and Elizabeth Taylor. With dark hardwood floors, crystal chandeliers, wood moldings, a grandfather clock brought over from England by one of the General Preston's (the original owner) eight children, you'll almost certainly hear the almost imperceptible sound of the past.
There are a few Bed & Breakfasts just a stone's throw away from the Inn, all of which provide a smaller more intimate experience.
Good options for those seeking a fine dining experience, not to be confused with a healthy or low calorie one, are the hotel restaurant and the tavern.
For a change of scenery that retains the colonial mystique, The Tavern Restaurant (tel. 276/628-1118; www.abingdontavern.com), built in 1779, charms as the oldest continuously used building in Abington. The menu is not for the faint of heart or wallet, with entrees like oysters, filet mignon and wiener schnitzel but the prices are actually less than what you might expect for such fare (most entrees are less than $25).
The Starving Artist Café (tel. 276/628-8445; www.websource.net/starvingartist) is a better choice for casual diners, vegetarians or those on a budget. As you'd expect, the artist theme is big here. In addition to supporting the people who run the café by eating sandwiches like "The Diego Rivera" or "Jackson Pollack," you can also contribute to the up-and-comers fund by buying one of the works decorating the walls.
Not quite ready to go quietly into that good night? The Barter Theater (www.bartertheatre.com) offers a wide variety of plays for all ages. The morning and afternoon shows (between 10 and noon) will keep the kids occupied-Anne of Green Gables is one of the most recent offerings. Phantom of the Opera and The Tempest are some of the evening offerings. The theater operates all year.
After too much wine and a good night's sleep, we hit the trail, just a short walk from the Inn. My traveling companion, an incurable mountain biker, was off to conquer all 34.3 miles and I was left alone with the solitude.
While I never made it to the North Carolina border (where the trail ends) the distance I did cover (15 miles) made me a rails to trails devotee. Although I could not have known it at the time (since that trip was my first introduction to R2T) I am glad it was my first. The Virginia Creeper stands out in my mind (even after doing over 100 of them) as one of the most breathtaking.
Some say the name derives from the Virginia Creeper vine that grows on either side. My sore legs trust the other explanation: locomotives making the ascent of 1,600 feet some at nearly 7% grade would do little more than creep.
This trail is so scenic even the least picturesque parts rival the beauty found anywhere on the east coast. Much of the trail winds through what feels like your own personal forest, trees overhanging either side your only fellow traveler whatever leaf or insect is skimming the surface of the lake or stream.
My personal favorites are the railroad leftovers: the trestles, iron and wood bridges, even the sharp turns (well, sharp for a locomotive), which all made even a cynic like me wonder whether the "good old days" were perhaps even just the tiniest bit more genteel?
If you would like to bike (or hike) but uphill isn't your thing, Adventure Damascus Bicycles (tel. 276/475-6262; www.adventuredamascus.com) provides a shuttle that will take you to anywhere along the trail (and even pick you up again if pre-arranged). This same company will rent you bikes for a small fee ($15 for four hours).
A word of safety before you go: helmets are not required but highly recommended and road bikes are not a great idea. The trail is limestone and cinder, not pavement.
A good book for the journey is The Virginia Creeper Trail Companion: Nature and History along Southwest Virginia's National Recreation Trail by Edward H. Davis and Edward B. Morgan (Johnston City, TN: The Overmountain Press, 1997), paperback, 104 pages, $ 9.95.
Cityscape: Schuylkill River Trail (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania)
Rails to trails in cities are particularly appealing because they provide a way for city residents and visitors to exercise outdoors without risking bodily harm at the hands of a car or bicycle messenger. While most can't provide the solitude or serenity of trails such as the Virginia Creeper they are a quick and convenient dose of nature. Some can even provide a glimpse into the city's history by running through industrial areas rarely visited any other way.
The Schuylkill trail in Philadelphia is the best of both worlds. The trail begins in the heart of the city: the Philadelphia museum of art and ends in the rural Valley Forge national historic park, paralleling the Schuylkill trail the whole way. There are plans to extend it the full 100 miles of the river, but for now it is 14.5 miles.
This itinerary is one of many you might consider.
- Bring some coffee or juice to Rodin Museum where you will see the dramatic Gates of Hell and Burghers of Calais.
- Walk a few blocks the beginning of the trail (the Philadelphia Museum of Art) and spend an hour or two musing on Marcel Duchamp's pivotal "Nude Descending a Staircase."
- Grab lunch at one of the outdoor cafes along the first few feet of the trail.
- Time to get serious. Follow the rather crowded paved path as it winds along the river and is hugged by a crowded road. You'll pass through a lovely little area called Boathouse Row-see if you can spot the beautiful wood lighthouse and crews sculling on the river. Soon the crowds will thin and the path will become more scenic.
- Keep going and you'll pass Sythane Taylor, a 1930's movie studio where Westerns were produced.
- A recent 3 mile section of the trail was completed connecting it with the Perkiomen Trail in the Valley Forge national park. This section runs through the mostly wooded park. While you are there, stop in the visitor's center to see a nice exhibit of how the people who were in the Colonial Army lived. If you arrive at the right time of day or year (warmer months) you will be able to live history by seeing re-enactments and other educational programs.
If you are visiting Philadelphia, staying at the Loews Hotel (tel. 215/627.1200; www.loewshotels.com) is a particularly great option for anyone with children or pets. Although this particular Loews is unquestionably a hotel used by business travelers, the staff and management go above and beyond to make all, including spouses and pleasure travelers, feel welcome and comfortable.
The rooms are spacious and light. The staff friendly and responsive. The restaurant decent. Just as you would expect at any good hotel.
What stands apart in this chain is that the management really seems to have put themselves in their guests shoes. Programs such as "Loews Loves Kids" and "Loews Loves Pets" are not just marketing hype. They mean it when they say they understand the special needs of these groups and all travelers.
My 15-month-old daughter was not only given red carpet treatment including a special bath toy at check in (which kept her delightfully busy for several hours) but the room was made child-proof. They even offered a nice lending library of video games (maybe in a few years for her), special meals, and supervised programs. They also prepared for a visit from my dog, who at the last minute decided not to join me, with a cushy bed and great bags of biscuits-which she happily gulped down when I brought them home to her.
When the urge comes to eat, a nice walk to Rittenhouse Square affords several restaurants ranging from Bistros to fine dining-or you could just grab a sandwich and enjoy the beauty of the park in the square. One restaurant that comes highly recommended is Porcini (tel. 215/751-1175), which serves up good Italian foot at reasonable prices.
Placid Pacific: Old Railroad Grade Trail (San Francisco, CA)
The Railroad Grade Trail in one of the country's most spectacular natural sites is not for the faint of heart or weak of leg. Almost all of the eight miles of trail are on a seven percent grade -- from start to finish is a 2,000 foot climb.
The trail is the diametric opposite to the rails to trails running through the cities. Whereas they are densely populated with après-work iPod clad rollerbladers, this attracts more of the organic meditation crowd. It's easy to see why. Getting lost in contemplation is easy when surrounded by this much serenity, raw nature and quiet. The path alternately winds through redwood groves, open grasslands, laurel canyons and oak tree forests. Just about the only sounds come from birds and deer. Some parts of the experience have been likened to traveling through a rain forest and being on top of the world.
Those who persevere are richly rewarded with literally awe-inspiring views of the Pacific Ocean. The top of Mt. Tamalpais, or Mt. Tam as locals affectionately call it, is arguably one of the most beautiful vantage points on the West Coast. On a "Farallons Day" hikers who arrive at the summit can see miles out over the very blue Pacific to the Farallons Islands. Avoid the hike on summer mornings, unless you want to marvel at the beauty of being shrouded in fog.
For groups that include people more inclined to wear Pashiminas than Patagonia, but no less eager to see the summit, a road ending 0.3 miles from the summit is an ideal place to meet.
The Trail begins at Mountain Home Inn (tel. 415/381-9000; www.mtnhomeinn.com), across Panoramic Highway, and is accessible by bus and by car -- there is a parking lot at Mount Home Inn. For more information contact Mt. Tamalpais State Park (tel. 415/388-2070).
A day in Mt. Tamalpais is an ideal excursion from San Francisco, less than 30 minutes away by car. For a slightly different experience, consider making Marin County your base. The region is generally warmer than the city itself and many consider it to be a world apart from the rest of the planet.
The Gerstle Park Inn (tel. 800/726-7611; www.gerstleparkinn.com) is a great in-between spot to use as home base. All the rooms are relatively large with classic furnishings and luxury baths. Most have a desk and a gourmet breakfast is provided. Its location in a quiet section of a San Rafael, a good sized town with considerable shopping and gourmet food options, make it versatile: those nights when you want to stay close to home you can find ample to do a few steps outside your room.
Those seeking a more intimate experience or traveling with Fluffy should not miss Manka's Inverness Lodge (tel. 415/669-1034; www.mankas.com). This old hunting lodge is replete with all the authentic accoutrements: stone fireplaces, naturalist furniture, wood paneling, cracked leather armchairs, clawfoot double tubs and overflowing bookcases. There is a gourmet restaurant whose menu changes daily depending upon what the local purveyor has caught that day. It is well off the beaten path which makes it ideal for those people who want to be able to claim their cell phones couldn't get reception and they had no access to e-mail.