February 20, 2004 -- Most visitors to Japan see Tokyo or Kyoto or both, then head back home. But there's a lot more worth investigating, in locations near enough to reach with just a short train ride. On a recent trip to Japan with relatives, my cousin came away "enchanted' by Hiroshima's rebirth, something I hadn't expected at all. If you're planning a journey to Japan, then, consider these side trips from Tokyo or Kyoto. They can be added to your basic vacation for relatively moderate prices, from as little as $59 to as much as $433.
GETTING OUT OF TOKYO
Nikko
Though traditional Japanese taste is subdued in form, color and theme, there is a wild side to the national character, and Nikko is the place to find it. Outbursts of color pop up in the architecture and design of this town nestled in tall, cedar woods, north of Tokyo about two hours by rail, slightly more by road. In Nikko, head to the Toshogu Shrine, a marvelous progression of gates, bridges, steps, bell towers, stables and more leading up to the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the shogunate that bears his name. He died in1616, but this expensive edifice was completed 20 years later. Many of the buildings are National Treasures, and some are World Heritage Sites as well.
The three must-see spots are the Sacred Stable with its carvings of three monkeys -- the original see-no-evil, hear-no-evil, speak-no-evil models; the magnificent Yomeimon (Sunlight Gate), and the almost equally splendid Karamon Gate (Chinese Gate). Website: www.city.nikko.tochigi.jp/heritage/english/w_top.htm.
The Japanese Tourist Board operates a typical tour to Nikko from Tokyo. It's "Nikko Sunrise Tour" costs ¥13,500 ($126) or ¥11,500 ($107) for children 6-11, and departs most days throughout the year. You go by deluxe motor coach, visit the Toshogu Shrine, then drive up to Lake Chuzenji, where you see the Kegon Waterfall and have lunch before returning to Tokyo.
I prefer visiting just the shrine and neighboring Nikko, however, as the trip up to the lake can be long, with road delays, and you might not even get there by nightfall, in which case you can see neither lake nor waterfall, let alone the scenery en route. In the town of Nikko, make your headquarters the venerable Kanaya Hotel, over 100 years old and full of atmosphere. The most direct route to Nikko is on the Tobu Railway line, taking under two hours. Check out www.kanayahotel.co.jp/nikko/traffic/access-by-train-e.htm for details.
Hakone
The area around Mt. Fuji and Lake Ashi appeals to nature lovers, and is particularly fine in autumn, when fall colors the leaves, or in winter, when Fuji is seen most clearly. I would recommend this day trip for those who will be in Japan long enough to slake their thirsts for the new (Tokyo) and the old (Kyoto), and need a respite from the fuss of the former or the tranquility of the latter. Be sure to visit the Fuji Visitors Center and take the bus trip half way up the mountain. (If you have too much time on your hands, you could even climb the second half of the way.) Cruise the lake if possible, and even better, stop in at the ancient Fujiya Hotel, over 100 years old, to have tea and experience what tourists must have seen about the time former president U.S. Grant came here in 1879. (He also stayed at the Kanaya in Nikko.)
If you want to stay in a large, luxury hotel, you couldn't do better than to try the Hakone Kowaki-en, where you are given a yukata (an informal kimono) to wear in your room and between the room and the public bath (the latter is strictly optional). There are five restaurants in the hotel, shops, and spa services A standard twin goes for ¥13,000 ($121). Website: www.fujita-kanko.co.jp/english/kowakien/hakoneho.
JTB Sunrise Tours have a one-day Mt. Fuji-Hakone tour, costing ¥15,000 ($140) ¥13,000 ($121) for children 6 to 11, lunch included. You drive to the Fuji Visitors Center, then halfway up the mountain itself, have lunch at a fancy hotel, drive to Hakone and cruise on Lake Ashi (called Lake Hakone by foreigners), and take the Mt. Komagatake Aerial Cableway up and back. Then you drive to Odawara, where you board the bullet train back to Tokyo.
GETTING OUT OF KYOTO
Nara
Without a doubt, the number one tourist target is Todaiji Temple, with its Hall of the Great Buddha. Here, in the largest wooden building in the world, you'll find the earth's largest bronze statue -- it's a 53-foot high Buddha cast in 749, bestowing peace with the right hand, while granting wishes with the left. The hall was built in 752, but it was destroyed by fire and the current structure goes back only to 1709. Nara was unified Japan's first capital, even before Kyoto. Website: www.todaiji.or.jp (in Japanese only).
Half a mile southeast is the Kasuga Shrine, where the pathways are lined by stone lanterns (3,000 or so). Try to be here in early February or in August when the lanterns are all lit. A good website is www.japan-guide.com/e/e4102.html.
Southwest of Nara is the magnificent Horyuji, the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, with probably the oldest wooden buildings in the world, dating from 607. The 45 buildings in the complex date from the seventh century up to 1598, and 17 of them are "National Treasures." Students of this country's history, religion or culture must see this grouping, which I consider the Vatican and Acropolis of Japanese culture. You can get here from JR Nara Station, getting off at Horyuji Station, and walk (17 minutes) or take the bus, which departs several times per hour. Check out www.japan-guide.com/e/e4104.html.
JTB Sunrise Tours has a Nara Afternoon tour costing ¥6300 ($59), ¥5300 ($50) for children 6-11 years), picking you up in Kyoto, visiting Todaiji Temple, the Deer Park and Kasuga Shrine, operating daily and needing a minimum of one person to depart. You get back to your hotel in Kyoto about 6:30 PM.
Hiroshima
Though it was reduced to rubble by the atom bomb on August 6, 1945, the city has made a remarkable comeback as a city of wide, tree-lined boulevards and manufacturing. Now it is home to more than one million inhabitants, and is the most vital city in the Chugoku-Shikoku region of about eight prefectures. Among its products are Mazda automobiles and ships.
First and foremost, you should visit the Peace Memorial Park, where the must-see checklist includes the museum (admission ¥50, or 47 cents), the cenotaph for the victims of the attack, and the dome -- the ruins of an exhibition hall nearly at the epicenter of the explosion. If you happen to be here on August 6, there is a memorial service at the park held annually, followed by the placement of hundreds of lanterns on the river, part of the ancient O-Bon ceremony for the dead, which coincides with the anniversary of the bombing. The website for the museum is www.pcf.city.hiroshima.jp, phone 082/241-4004.
Shukkei-en Garden, near the city center, is one of Japan's most beautiful small gardens, entirely reconstructed to its original state. As you walk to and from the garden, notice the large number of art pieces on the streets -- statues, lanterns and sculptures among them.
Perhaps the best place to stay in town is the Rihga Royal, (www.rihga.com). Right in the city center, it overlooks Hiroshima Castle on one side, the Peace Park on the other. It has 35 floors, all amenities, several restaurants, with a department store next door. You can expect magnificent service, especially from the concierge staff. Twin rooms start from ¥24,000 ($224).
A great place to eat is right next door to the Rihga Royal, with several floors of food courts offering price ranges from quite low to moderately high, including western-style (Italian), Chinese (several cuisines), and of course, Japanese. You can try the local specialty, okonomiyaki, which is like a doughy omelet, for under ¥1000 ($9) and enjoy beer from about ¥800 ($7.50).
Miyajima
A short tram ride from Hiroshima is one of Japan's many hidden wonders, Miyajima (literally, "Shrine Island"), made world famous by its marvelous, red-lacquered torii gate standing in the water in front of the splendid Itsukushima Shinto shrine. You can pet and feed the deer that gather around anyone with a handout, as at Nara Park near Todaiji Temple. If you are lucky, a service may be in progress when you visit the shrine. You may see it at its best when the water is high enough to cover what otherwise are mud flats. The web site is www.miyajima.or.jp/miyakan2/index.html.
If you have kids in tow, treat them to the aquarium here, with sea lion shows, penguins and dolphins. Admission ¥1,050 ($10), children ¥310 to ¥520 ($3 to $5).
A typical day trip from Kyoto to Hiroshima and Miyajima is offered by JTB Sunrise Tours, costing ¥46,300 ($433), Y¥38,300 ($358) for children 6-11 years. Price includes transfer to Kyoto Station or Shin-Osaka Station, bullet train to Hiroshima, visit to Miyajima Island's Itsukushima Shrine, then Peace Memorial Park in Hiroshima. Early evening bullet train back to Osaka or Kyoto, transfer back to your hotel around 9 PM. Departures four times weekly, minimum two persons.
For all Sunrise tours, contact JTB at www.jtb.co.jp/sunrisetour or through your hotel's front desk.
Have you visited any of these charming sidetrips? We'd love to hear about your experiences on our Japan Message Boards.