Heidi Sarna is the co-founder of QuirkyCruise.com, a guide to small-ship cruising.
The autumn scenery dazzles in the Thousand Islands archipelago, a stretch of the St. Lawrence River that meanders past floating forests, rocky outcroppings, and mansion-topped islets straddling the U.S.-Canada border separating southeastern Ontario and northern New York State.
On an October cruise through the region with St. Lawrence Cruise Lines, brilliant gold and orange trees are the backdrop as the stubby, old-fashioned Canadian Empress travels the waterway on 4-, 5-, and 7-night journeys showing off the region’s natural beauty, small towns, historic estates, and the feat of engineering that is the St. Lawrence Seaway, a system of locks, dams, and canals that allows for ocean vessels to access the Great Lakes.
Of course, the Canadian Empress is quite a bit smaller than those oceangoing behemoths. Here’s what it’s like to experience the Thousand Islands by small ship.
The ship’s common areas and cabins
More than 40 years ago, the Ontario-based Clark family built the 66-passenger Canadian Empress with Victorian-style tin ceilings, brass railings, and lighting fixtures to evoke the steamships that plied the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence River in the late 1800s and early 1900s.
For common areas, the homey ship has a dining/lounge area with large windows for watching the scenery at mealtimes or while passengers relax with coffee, tea, or a cocktail from the bar.
There’s also a sun deck, though on our fall cruise, it was too chilly and sometimes too drizzly for most folks to head up there. But if you bundle up and do some laps around the deck (the first mate told me 24 times around = 1 mile), you can soak up serene views of forested islands dotted with cottages and mansions.
While I lapped, many others on board napped, snoozing in cozy cabins that resemble the private train compartments you might see in an old movie.
Most cabins have fixed twin captains’ beds pointing toward a small window, plus a sink and vanity. A few hooks and hangers are supposed to accommodate your clothes (hope you didn’t overpack).
In the bathroom, the shower and toilet, which flushes via a foot-operated pedal like on an RV, share a tiny space separated by a curtain that somehow manages to keep the shower water contained.
The cabins’ rumbling old HVAC systems could either disturb your sleep or, if you’re like me, supply a soothing source of background white noise.
Cruising among the Thousand Islands
Always docked overnight, the Canadian Empress cruises by day for several hours while passengers occupy themselves with games and activities (our charming and witty cruise director, Fernando, was a lot of fun).
Our cruise featured two guest speakers (though most of the company’s trips do not) who lectured about the history of the area. We learned about the importance of commercial shipping between the Great Lakes and the Atlantic Ocean, and how that necessitated the building of the St. Lawrence Seaway and its massive system of locks and channels, displacing many towns and villages in the process.
From time to time a recorded commentary describes notable sights in the Thousand Islands, such as an arc of giant wind turbines and the Iroquois Lock and Dam, which manages the water levels of Lake Ontario.
You’ll also see vestiges of the region’s heyday as a resort destination for wealthy families of the Gilded Age. Imposing island estates like the Boldt and Singer castles date to the early 20th century, when the Thousand Islands became known as a summer retreat for millionaires. (Incidentally, Thousand Island salad dressing purportedly comes from these parts, though the origin story is murky.)
At times, the small and perky Canadian Empress cruises within just a few feet of the islands, letting guests practically reach out and touch rocky outcroppings or a cottage fence.
Each day, stops in small towns along the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence allow for short nearby excursions. You can explore museums dedicated to the history of the Thousand Islands, learn about ship building in Gananoque, and inspect Prescott’s 19th-century Fort Wellington. A guided waterfront tour in Brockville gives a peek into a restored 19th-century rail tunnel with funky lighting just begging for a spot on your Instagram grid.
As you might expect, the towns’ shops and restaurants buzz with tourists in summer, grinding to a halt in the more leisurely autumn months.
Dining and entertainment on the ship
Back on the Canadian Empress, meals are served at set times at open-seating tables of four and six. One or two options are offered at lunch and dinner; with prior notice, the crew will happily accommodate dietary restrictions. The menu runs to hearty staples like prime rib, and—my favorites—roast turkey with stuffing and crispy honey-glazed chicken thighs with corn on the cob.
Evening entertainment ranges from a talented multitasking magician to live musical performances and a fun trivia night emceed by the always entertaining Fernando.
What type of traveler will enjoy St. Lawrence Cruise Lines?
This quirky, laid-back cruise is about taking it slow and mingling with down-to-earth folks who are there to see a scenic part of Canada from the water on a truly one-of-a-kind ship, while being served by friendly, efficient crew, some of whom have worked for the company for decades.
If you require luxury accommodations on a modern ship outfitted with tons of amenities on board, this is not the cruise for you. But to experience the region via cruise, large or small, there’s really no other game in town.
Choose from 4-, 5-, and 7-night sailings between May and October, traveling either round-trip to and from Kingston, Ontario, or between Kingston and Montreal or Ottawa. Most passengers are from Canada or the United States; many drive to Kingston, or, like us, fly into Toronto and make the 3-hour trip to Kingston via train, Uber, or rental car.
St. Lawrence Cruise Lines fares start at CAD$2,234 (US$1,600) per person, including wine and beer at lunch and dinner (it’s a cash bar for drinks any other time). The fare covers evening entertainment and guided walking tours in port, too.