March, 2004 -- Maybe we're biased, but Australia has a lot of bests. It's got some of the wildest natural scenery, the weirdest wildlife, certainly some of the most brilliant scuba diving, the best beaches (shut up, California), the oldest rainforest (110 million years and counting), the world's oldest human civilization (some archaeologists say 40,000 years, some say 120,000), the best wines (stop browsing the Napa and come see what we mean), the world's most laid-back people (when they're not from Melbourne and watching Aussie Rules football), the best weather (ignoring the Wet Season up north), the most innovative East-meets-West-meets-someplace-else cuisine -- all lit by the world's most pervasive white sunlight. We would like to add to this list of "bests" our choices of the best accomodations for all sorts of tastes, occasions, and yes, wallet sizes.
In the listing below, NSW stands for New South Wales, QLD for Queensland, NT for the Northern Territory, WA for Western Australia, SA for South Australia, VIC for Victoria, TAS for Tasmania, and ACT for the Australian Capital Territory.
The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations
Explorers Inn (tel. 1800/623-288 in Australia, or 07/3211-3488) and Hotel George Williams (tel. 1800/064-858 in Australia, or 07/3308 0700) both in Brisbane, QLD: These two hotels around the corner from each other in Brizzie are shining examples of what cheap hotels should be -- trendy, clean, and bright with useful facilities like electronic keys, and an inexpensive restaurant.
Archipelago Studio Apartments, Port Douglas, QLD (tel. 07/4099-5387): They may be tiny, but these pretty apartments have a homey atmosphere and are just seconds from spectacular Four Mile Beach. Some units have sea views. The solicitous proprietor is a mine of advice on things to see and do.
Miss Maud Swedish Hotel, Perth, WA (tel. 1800/998-022 in Australia, or 08/9325-3900): Staying here, in the heart of Perth, is like staying at grandma's -- even if your grandma's house doesn't have a somewhat Swedish flavor. Friendly staff members who actually look pleased to see you and great food complete the picture.
North Adelaide Heritage Apartments and Cottages, Adelaide, SA (tel. 08/8272-1355; www.adelaideheritage.com): These accommodations actually consist of 21 separate fabulous properties in North Adelaide and Eastwood. The former Friendly Meeting Chapel Hall resembles a small church stocked with Victorian antiques. An especially memorable unit is the George Lowe, Esq. apartment done up in the style of a 19th-century gentleman's bachelor pad.
Macquarie Manor, Hobart, Tas (tel. 03/6224-4999): As soon as you walk into this classically colonial-style manor, you'll know you want to stay. Check out the delightful dining room, and the drawing room complete with old couches and a grand piano.
The Best Alternative Accommodations
Underground Motel, White Cliffs, NSW (tel. 1800/021-154 in Australia, or 08/8091-6677; babs.com.au/pj/): All but two of this motel's rooms are underground in this fascinating opal-mining town. Rooms are reached by a maze of spacious tunnels dug out of the rock.
Whitsunday Wilderness Lodge, The Whitsunday Islands, QLD (tel. 07/4946-9777; www.southlongisland.com): The 10 beachfront cabins are basic, but your vacation at this island retreat will be anything but. Activities include sea kayaking, sailing, snorkeling, hiking trails, dining outside under the Milky Way, and swimming with Myrtle, the pet kangaroo. Considering you won't put your hand in your wallet except for wine and maybe a seaplane trip to the Reef, this is a great value.
Binna Burra Mountain Lodge (tel. 1800/074-260 in Australia, or 07/5533-3622; www.binnaburralodge.com.au) and O'Reilly's Rainforest Guesthouse (tel. 1800/688-722 in Australia, or 07/5544-0644; www.tourismgoldcoast.com/oreillys/), both in the Gold Coast Hinterland, QLD: Tucked snugly almost 1,000m (3,280 ft.) up on rainforested ridges behind the Gold Coast, these retreats offer fresh mountain air and instant access to Lamington National Park. At O'Reilly's you can hand-feed brilliantly colored birds every morning.
Emma Gorge Resort, The Kimberley, WA (tel. 08/9169-1777): At this spick-and-span settlement on the 1-million acre El Questro cattle station, guests stay in safari tents with wooden floors and electric lights, eat at a rustic gourmet restaurant, and join in hikes, bird-watching tours, river cruises, and more. A hike up Emma Gorge takes you to an Edenic swimming hole surrounded by red cliffs.
Prairie Hotel, Flinders Ranges, SA (tel. 08/8648-4844): This remarkable tin-roofed, stone-walled Outback pub in the Flinders Ranges has quaint rooms, a great bar out front where you can meet the locals, and some of the best food in Australia.
Freycinet Lodge, Freycinet National Park, Coles Bay, TAS (tel. 03/6257-0101): These eco-friendly bush cabins are right next to one of the nation's best walking tracks. The ocean views from the magnificent restaurant and the surrounding balconies are spectacular.
The Best Places To Stay on a Shoestring
Sydney Central YHA, Sydney, NSW (tel. 02/9281-9111; www.yha.com.au): One of the biggest, busiest youth hostels in the world, this place has a popular night spot, a bistro selling cheap meals, a convenience store, pool tables, a movie room, a heated pool, and a sauna -- all in the center of Sydney.
Holiday Village Backpackers, Byron Bay, NSW (tel. 02/6685-8888): For a bohemian kind of place, this Byron Bay lodging is loaded with comforts. You can stay in a dorm room if you want, but for a couple of dollars more you can get a fully self-contained unit with a bedroom, lounge, and kitchen area. There's also a volleyball court, a spa and pool, and a TV and video lounge. Cool.
Halse Lodge, Sunshine Coast, QLD (tel. 1800/242-567 in Australia, or 07/5447-3377; www.sunshinecoastaccommodation.net): How many backpacker lodges do you know located in Heritage-listed Queenslander houses, with neat private rooms, incredibly cheap meals, a wide veranda with attractive furniture and garden views, an atmospheric bar and courtyard, and free surfboards to use at the excellent beach just a stroll away? Well, now you know this one.
Beachcomber Coconut Caravan Village, Mission Beach, QLD (tel. 07/4068-8129; big4bccv@bigpond.com.au): Right across the road from what is arguably the prettiest beach in Australia, this oh-so-pretty campground has freshly painted cabins with little balconies, en suite bathrooms, cooking facilities, and even separate bedrooms for you and the kids. Cassowaries wander out of the dense jungle at the back and come right up to you.
The Kimberley Klub, Broome, WA (tel. 08/9192-3233; www.kimberleyklub.com): Low-slung Outback architecture, trendy private rooms, a rustic open-sided bar and restaurant serving great food, and a rock-lined pool make this one of the coolest places to stay in pricey Broome.