September 22, 2004 --If you think of hotels as a bland, cookie-cutter boxes more suitable for escaping than embracing a foreign culture, think again. Lodgings can take on a very different dimension if you "go local," and such an experience is often less costly and more rewarding than you might imagine.
Japan -- Ryokan
Nowhere is staying in local lodging more gratifying than in the land of the rising sun, where a night at a traditional Ryokan provides a step back in time and a connection with the rich cultural traditions of Japanese hospitality.
At these historical inns, guests stay in Japanese-style rooms with tatami (straw mat) floors, and sleep on futons, usually beautifully made with traditional Japanese quilts and a bean-filled pillow. A yukata (Japanese dress or robe) is provided. This is worn during the stay, for walks outside the ryokan, and as pajamas. Footwear must be removed at all times indoors, so slippers are also provided. The overnight accommodation usually includes a Japanese dinner and breakfast, often served in your room. Guests will also have the opportunity to enjoy a traditional Japanese style bath in a communal bathing facility, with water often directly supplied from a natural hot spring or onsen.
Ryokans are located throughout Japan, both in major cities and rural areas. Those in more remote locations are often surrounded by magnificent manicured gardens. Although Ryokan staff may not always speak English, they will always endeavor to make your stay comfortable and relaxing. Typical rates for Ryokan accommodations range between $55 and $140 per person per night, but there are also less expensive options starting at under $45 per night. (Prices are based on an exchange rate of $US1 = 110 Yen).
For further information about Ryokans, or to see listings of locations, visit the Japan Ryokan Association website at www.ryokan.or.jp. You can also make reservations at www.japaneseguesthouses.com.
Mexico - The Hacienda
Staying at a Mexican Hacienda is taking a journey into Mexico's rich and colorful history. Originally conceived as giant colonial farms or ranches, the remote locations of the Haciendas meant that they had to be largely self-sufficient. The casa principal, or main house is usually set in a flamboyant garden with pools and water features. Residences often had 20 to 30 rooms, on one to three floors and early missionary influence ensured that each Hacienda had a chapel, bell tower or spire. Many of the great Haciendas of Mexico are architectural masterpieces on par with the chateaux of France or the Rhine castles of the Germany. Thankfully many have been rescued from the decay of post-revolution ruin and transformed into boutique hotels, often in remote but luxurious locations that evoke the flavor of romantic old Mexico.
Some of the more famous Haciendas are located on the Yucatan Peninsula. These include the 17th century Hacienda Santa Cruz (www.haciendasantacruz.com) and the four Starwood-owned Luxury Collection Haciendas (www.starwood.com) -- the 17th century Hacienda Santa Rosa, 17th century Hacienda Temozon, 19th century Hacienda San Jose, and the 16th century Hacienda Uayamon. Most of these Haciendas have price ranges of approximately $200-$400 per night.
For a humbler budget stay at an authentic Hacienda, visit the Yaxcopoil (www.yaxcopoil.com/), which has rooms for $60 per night. All are within easy driving distance of major archaeological sites, Mayan ruins, and stunning Peninsula beaches.
The Yucatan Today Tourism website (www.yucatantoday.com/destinations/eng-hacienda-route.htm) provides independent travelers with an itinerary and directions to the Hacienda Route, a one-day driving trip that takes in some of the most ornate and beautifully restored Haciendas on the Peninsula.
Italy -- Pensioni
Much of Italy's charm lies with its history and unique traditions -- not to mention its food. Western-style hotels in Italy often lack these elements, but a stay at one of the thousands of Pensioni in Italy will immerse you in the Italian lifestyle, often for a budget price. Most pensioni are privately owned, the owner is often the manager and family members may be staff. Rooms vary in size and quality depending on the government-issued star rating (ranging from one to five stars), but in general, they are large, sparsely decorated and do not feature such modern appliances as telephones or televisions. Bathrooms are usually compact and rarely, if ever, have bathtubs. At one-star Pensioni, bathrooms may be communal.
However, your room may have ornate frescoes on the ceiling, or your antique bed might date to the 15th-century. Your tiny terrace may look out onto a brick wall, a courtyard, or perhaps a colorful piazza, where church bells serve as your wake-up call. The Pensione is a communal environment, where breakfast (included in the price) will be served in a small room or terrace and you may share tables or benches with other guests from Italy and around the world. Your barista (coffeemaker) will brew your cappuccino or espresso to perfection each morning and the smell alone will rouse you from your sleep.
Although some Pensioni have their own websites, others rely on phone and fax reservations and may not accept credit cards. Staff generally speak English, especially in the larger cities, and often go out of the way to assist you with driving directions and referrals to restaurants and shops. If you arrive in a city by train, the station may have local booking services that can refer you to Pensioni. Three helpful reservation websites are www.venere.com, www.viaggiaedormi.it/eng/index.php, and www.eurocheapo.com. Prices vary but in the major cities, rates can range from $60 for a one-star room per night to several hundred dollars for a four-star.
The UK and Ireland -- The Inn or Pub
A global roundup of traditional accommodations would not be complete without mention of the quintessential UK or Irish inn or pub. Why pay hotel prices when for a reasonable rate you can enjoy the hospitality of a traditional pub, meet locals, and indulge in the local brews? From the Isle of Wight to St Andrews in Scotland, pub accommodations are in unique, centuries-old inns, often with gourmet food and picturesque locations.
The term pub is an abbreviation of the Victorian term Public House, but it is an institution that has been in existence since the 10th century, when King Edgar, then ruler of England, decreed there should be one Ale House per village. After several pints of beer, many a weary traveler sought shelter and thus the pub as accommodation was born. While some became more gentrified and have been converted to restaurants and modern bars, there are still several thousand others where you can enjoy a pint, an authentic counter meal and a game of darts before retiring to your room upstairs. One name you may encounter is the Red Lion; over 600 of them are located throughout the UK and Ireland (and no, they are not a hotel chain).
Need A Break (www.needabreak.com) provides the most comprehensive listings of accommodations in the United Kingdom. Pub Rooms (www.pub-rooms.co.uk) and Stay in A Pub (www.stayinapub.com) can also take the headache out of the finding the perfect place to lay your head.
