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It had been at least three years since I'd ventured down the Garden State Parkway towards Atlantic City (AC). Perhaps it is the fact that there are fewer annoying toll booths that made the drive seems somewhat shorter now. I was there recently for Atlantique City, billed as the World's Largest Indoor Antique Show (there are both spring and fall versions of the show) and of course I was curious to revisit several casinos and see first hand what I had been reading about in the media -- namely that AC had undergone a renaissance of sorts and was once again the east coast's casino and entertainment playground.
What has not changed is the fact that accommodation here is ridiculously overpriced and out of reach of many a struggling travel writer. I couldn't legitimize paying over $350 a night to stay in a downtown casino, so chose a quaint Bed and Breakfast in the nearby town of Absecon instead. I was glad I did. The Dr Jonathan Pitney House (tel. 609/569-1799; www.pitneyhouse.com) is a quaint, intimate property, listed in the National Registry of Historic Places, with a rich history and full of period antique furnishings. Located a mere seven miles from the Boardwalk, it was built in 1799 and a few decades later became home to Dr Pitney, considered the "Father of Atlantic City." Dr Pitney was responsible for bringing the railroad line to what was then Absecon Island and he is also credited with coming up with the names of the city's streets -- with those running parallel to the ocean named after the great bodies of water (Pacific, Atlantic, Baltic, Mediterranean, Adriatic and Arctic) and streets running east to west named after the U.S. States. The B&B Inn Keeper, Don, is a fountain of knowledge about the area and its history and we stayed in the Victoria Room which once had a ghost sighting and is decked out with the highest bed I have ever slept on. Room rates start at $139 per night plus tax and include a delicious breakfast -- ours consisted of a home made chocolate and frosting muffin, a delectable triple cheese soufflé, yoghurt and fruit.
It may not be Las Vegas yet when it comes to the actual number of up-market eateries and celebrity chefs, but along with the resurgence of casinos and restoration of the city, AC is also experiencing a culinary revival. Apart from your standard salt water taffy, hot dogs and miscellaneous boardwalk snacks, you can dine at a selection of fine restaurants located in and around the casinos including Buddakan and The Continental (at the Pier at Caesar's), Bobby Flay Steakhouse and Seablue (at The Borgata) and Red Square and The Palm (at The Quarter at Tropicana). Unlike its Nevada cousin though, Atlantic City restaurants generally do not stay open late -- most closing by 11pm. Based on what I was fortunate to experience food-wise, I would say "Vegas, eat your heart out!"
We dined at The Continental (tel. 609/674-8300; www.continentalac.com) at the Pier at Caesar's on a Saturday night (I must admit I was a little surprised that when we phoned for a reservation at 3pm that day, a table for two was available). My advice would definitely be to make a booking and request a table in the Sammy Davis Room. I wish I could accurately describe this psychedelic fish bowl style room with its 1970's inspired décor and captivating central light fixture -- it was both romantic and funky at the same time. The menu is an eclectic mix to satisfy even the most discerning of palates and all dishes are meant to be shared from the appetizers, to the entrees and the desserts (they call it "Global Tapas"). I wouldn't be exaggerating by saying that it was the best meal I have had this year, possibly longer. Everything is served on white platters and displayed exquisitely. My Teriyaki Fillet Mignon was cooked to perfection and carved into bite-sized morsels and the lamb chops were tender and flavorsome served atop a bed of carrot hummus. But the best part of the night had to be the desserts which indulgent pieces of heaven -- all priced at $4 (except one) so we had no choice but to order four of them. My personal favorite was the cheesecake egg rolls -- served warm in a Chinese wax paper bag. Even if you don't have dinner here, make it a point to come for dessert and drinks.
I'm of two minds about the new Pier complex at Caesar's (www.thepieratcaesars.com) -- formerly the Ocean One Pier and originally Million Dollar Pier. It possesses one of the best addresses I can imagine -- One Atlantic Ocean -- as it actually juts out several hundred feet over the ocean. On the one hand it houses two levels of tasteful retail stores and the third floor is the dining area with a unique beach side touch -- intimate window-front beach areas with Adirondack chairs making it possible to sit, relax, feel the sand in your toes and take in the breathtaking view -- all while enjoying an air conditioned environment. There is also a spectacular wind-swept terrace at the further ocean end, offering scenic views and fresh air. But on the negative side, the Pier has completely changed the boardwalk and effectively split it into two, without a clear view from one end to the other. The exterior is a bit of an eyesore due to its sheer size -- which is a direct contrast to its visually appealing interior spaces. The Boardwalk itself has had a face lift with many buildings being restored or re-faced.
The hotel-casinos don't seem to have changed much, if at all. They are still the smoky, swirly-carpet filled expanses of slot machines, playing tables, over-priced food outlets and miscellaneous stores and although I like gambling, nothing really enticed me to lay down the dollars. A total ban on smoking in casinos was touted last year by law-makers but unfortunately (yes I am a non-smoker) the council bowed to pressure from the gaming industry and instead signed off on a casino-driven compromise banning smoking on three-quarters of casino floors, effective April 15, 2007. Although largely implemented already, I still thought the cigarette smoke pervaded every area of the casinos and each time I left a casino, I felt like I had just smoked an entire packet.
Off the main "strip," The Borgata (www.theborgata.com) offers perhaps the most sophisticated overall casino/dining experience and at the other end of the city, the Tropicana's new development -- The Quarter (www.tropicana.net/thequarter/index.htm) brings the ambience of Old Havana to Atlantic City with a combination of retail, up-market restaurants, an IMAX theater, a comedy club, nightclubs and a spa.
But back to why I was in AC -- the Atlantique City (www.atlantiquecity.com) antique fair at the Convention Center. This fair was enormous and did not disappoint in terms of the selection of goods available. Antique toys and unique collectables were among the most prominent of goods with dealers from across the country specializing in everything from character lunch boxes to vintage clothing. For collectors, this fair is a must, so although you've missed it this year, pencil in March next year for a day or two to remember -- and wear comfortable shoes as it took us at least six to seven hours to get around and see everything.
Just footsteps from the Convention Center, Atlantic City has had a bit of a spruce up with its Outlets area called The Walk (www.acoutlets.com) which is located on Michigan and Arctic Avenues. There are probably close to 50 stores here with a few more still to open later this spring and summer. This new development has brought pedestrian traffic back to this otherwise quiet area.
Although not operational yet, there are plans afoot to start a new express train service from New York City to Atlantic City that will help weekend travelers get there and back more quickly. Scheduled for late 2007 or early 2008, the "Aces" would depart and return only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. The plan is a joint venture involving four Atlantic City casinos that are buying eight double decker train cars and the Casino Reinvestment Development Authority leasing four trains. Fares are for high rollers -- expected to be between $76 and $112 each way. Until then, you have a choice of flying in Atlantic City International Airport (Delta Airlines, Spirit Airlines and U.S. Airways), taking a bus (New Jersey Transit -- tel. 800/582-5946; Greyhound -- tel. 800/231-2222; Academy Bus Lines -- tel. 800/992-0451; and Grayline -- tel. 800/669-0051) or getting there by regular train or private car.
