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"Touch Your Heart" is the slogan of the Taiwan Visitors Association, which feels that coming here will do just that to you. I have to admit that on each of my several trips to this crowded but lovely green island, I have been touched by some little gesture or a few words that struck me, always unexpectedly, in a different manner. On this visit, it was a middle-aged, well-dressed matron sharing a line waiting to get into Taipei's most famous dumpling restaurant. As a gentle rain stopped, she produced a big wad of tissues and proceeded to wipe the raindrops off my shoulders, following up, when my smiling protests proved to no avail, with drying my face and the top of my head. Although cynics said this was just respect for the aged, I don't think I look that ancient. We couldn't communicate, just smiling at each other throughout the minute or two this kept up. Aged or not, it was still a nice gesture for anyone, and typical of the friendly manner in which I was treated by innocent members of the general public I ran into.
You may not be able to carve out time for a trip to Taiwan alone, but if you are planning a visit to Southeast Asia, the tourist authorities hope you will spend part of your time here. I think Taiwan compares favorably to Hong Kong and Singapore, as the country is vastly bigger than either and offers far more in the way of outdoor adventures, scenic resort facilities, and a genuine Chinese culture that has been preserved and nurtured. In addition, I believe the food here, overall, is better than that in either Hong Kong or Singapore, and the people are infinitely friendlier to visitors.
I have to mention bird flu, as it is on every traveler's mind when visiting Asia, but the good news is that there have been no cases reported in Taiwan at time of writing. Though Taiwan authorities have found a few infected birds smuggled from the mainland, there has been no illness yet reported. Also, travelers arriving at the Taipei international airport will be monitored using infrared sensors, then examined if they show any signs or symptoms of illness.
Taipei Highlights
If you see nothing else, go to the National Palace Museum (tel. 02/2882-2021; www.npm.gov.tw), without doubt the best museum of Chinese art on the planet. Its 655,156 pieces of art works and relics are what is left of treasures accumulated by Ch'ing Dynasty emperors in Beijing and covering a 7,000-year period. (Most of the work comes from the Sung, Yuan, Ming and Ch'ing dynasties, 960 to 1911). After the Japanese invasions started in 1931, they were moved to Nanking, then to Chungking, before finally being brought here, with the considerable assistance of the US Navy, in 1948. The major divisions of the museum concern painting, calligraphy, bronzes, jades, pottery and porcelain, silk tapestries, documentaries and more. The museum is being enlarged and reorganized, so that only one third of the space is now open to the public, but the whole is expected to be ready by the end of 2006. Lovers of Chinese art can be thankful this treasure trove was not left behind on the mainland of China, to be destroyed by raging students during the so-called Cultural Revolution. Open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission is NTS $100 (about US $3), and if your ticket is purchased this year or next, you are entitled to a second visit before the end of 2006, in consideration of the inconvenience caused by the renovation. Free tours in English daily at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. Location: No. 221, Section 2, Chih-Shan Road, Shih-lin District, Taipei.
The two most photogenic temples in Taipei are the Lungshan and the Pao-An (tel. (Chinese only) 02/2595-1676; www.paoan.org.tw), the latter dating back to 1805. At Pao-An, in addition to the temple in the center, there is a rear building erected in 1981 for worshipping Taoism's supreme deity, Yu-Huang, though the principle god here is the "Emperor" Pao-shen, not a real emperor, but a medical practitioner of the tenth century. Location: 61 Hami Street.
At Lungshan (www.lungshan.org.tw), as at Pao-An, note the worshippers, who represent every age and economic station, apparently, as they pray for good luck, good health and prosperity, with bundles of incense, flowers and food. Contrary to popular belief, the food here is offered to the gods, then sensibly taken home to eat, and not left to the priests, who prefer buying their own victuals to taking potluck with the masses. Built in 1738, Lungshan is dedicated to the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, Guanyin (aka Kwan Yin), and the China Airlines guidebook says in a matter-of-fact tone, "(Lungshan) has been attracting a lot of believers as wishes made here tend to come true." The main building was destroyed in Allied bombing in World War II (the statue of Guanyin spared), but lovingly and beautifully rebuilt in 1953.
Two of Taipei's famous night markets are worth visiting, one as it is the biggest, the other because of its proximity to Lungshan Temple and as it is a little closer to the city center. The first, Shilin Night Market, is out to the north of town in the direction of the National Palace Museum, and here you will find thousands of food stalls, row after row, making for a nice moveable feast if you are adventurous or have a Chinese-speaking friend or guide with you. Closer to other important sites is the so-called Snake Alley (Huahsi Street) Night Market, near Lungshan Temple, with a couple of streets filled with stalls and a few side lanes of restaurants, food and medicine stores, and the like. Animal activists have prevailed upon the government to forbid the former demonstrations of killing snakes in front of bug-eyed tourists, so that is now done only if you are a bona fide snake blood or meat customer. To find more information on the five biggest night markets, visit tpe.gov.tw/food/en_nightmarket.htm.
If you want to say you have visited the world's tallest building, do so in a hurry, as the distinction of Taipei 101 (www.tfc101.com) is under attack by structures arising in Dubai, Shanghai and elsewhere right now. The exact height of Taipei 101 is 1,667 feet, 101 floors above ground and five below. Ride to the observation floor on 89 (seven floors higher than the Empire State Building's observation deck). You can have a fast food lunch here, perhaps while you wait in line to go back down. Admission is NT$350 (about US $11).
Devoted airplane watchers might like to visit the China Airlines Museum, but can do so only in a group, contacting the hosts in advance at 02/2715-2233 ext. 5752/5761. History (since 1959), models, uniforms, the works. Inside the domestic airport (close to downtown), open weekdays 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. and 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Free admission.
Unless you have a fascination with dictators, you can skip the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall (tel. 02/2343-1100; www.cksmh.gov.tw), a monument to that tyrant's ego. Although plenty of Taiwanese revere him as their savior from Communist rule, the best sights here are neither his gigantic seated statue (not so coincidentally reminiscent of the Lincoln Memorial) nor his automobiles, but the spectacle of ordinary citizens using the plaza out front for rallies, dances and small sports events. Free admission. Location: 21 Chung Shan South Road.
Dining out in Taipei
Note: A 10 percent service charge is added to the bill at most restaurants and hotels, so you need not tip.
Delicious dumplings are the specialty of the famous Din Tai Fung (tel. 02/2321-8928), which has several branches here, as well as some in Japan and California. You have to stand in line and wait your turn, but it won't be long, as microphoned girls inside and out keep the tables turning. The average cost for a big dish is about NT $300 (about US $9), and they do have an English-language menu. Try favorites such as steamed pork dumplings, shrimp and pork shao-mai, and won-ton soup. Open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Location: No. 194, Sinyi Road, Section 2, Taipei.
If you wish to try so-called Taiwan cuisine, a combination of mainland Chinese and local (or aboriginal) fare, the best I know of is Ao Ba (Green Leaf) (tel. 02/2700-0009; www.aoba.com.tw). Try their crab cakes or roast pork with bamboo shoots. Average big dish, say, of ten dumplings, runs NTS $300 (about US $9). Location: No. 116, Section 1, Anhe Road, Taipei.
Beijing cuisine is the specialty of the marvelous Grand Hotel's Yuan Yuan Restaurant (tel. 02/2886-8888), with noodles and dumplings as the base, but many more refined and exotic dishes are the chief attraction for local diners. Moderately expensive. Location: No. 1, Jhongshan North Road, Section 4, Taipei.
Staying in Taipei
One of the best lower budget hotels is the Kilin (tel. 02/2331-8133), in the old part of town and close to Lungshan Temple at 103 Kangding Road. Two restaurants and 150 rooms from NTS $1,800 (around US $55) per night.
The Leofoo (tel. 02/2507-3211; www.leofoo.com.tw) is ten stories tall and has 232 rooms, but still feels more "Old China" in ambience than many of its moderately priced competitors. Facilities include three restaurants (Chinese, Japanese, Western). Rate for double or twin is NT $2,145 (about US $65), including tax, the 10 percent service charge and breakfast. Location: Corner of Song-Jiang Road and Chang-Chun Road.
The Grand Hotel (tel. 02/2868-8888; www.grand-hotel.org) is just that, looking like a very tall Chinese palace, red trim, golden roof, stone dragons and all. Built (in 1952) as a showplace in the early years of the Nationalist Dynasty's rule of Taiwan, the Grand for years refused Japanese guests at the order of Chiang kai-Shek, but now welcomes them and their yen with wide-open arms. You should come here just to see the place, including its vast lobby (with shops of curios), and dine here at least once (see Dining Out, above). If you are an Ike fan, ask to see the Eisenhower Suite, where he and Mamie stayed in the 50s. Four restaurants, huge pool. Rates for a budget room start at only NT $5,000 (about US $155), superior rooms from NTS $6,800 (about US $210). Reconstructed from 1995 to 1998, operated by the Duen Mou Foundation as a nonprofit venture. Location: No. 1, Lane 1, Shung Shan North Road, Section 4.
The Landis Hotel (tel. 02/2597-1234; www.landistpe.com.tw) is modern and sleek, but is also in the heart of the city and boasting a European-style ambience. With just 100 rooms and 100 suites, it seems cozier than its sister luxury hotels of the gigantic nature. Said to have the best French restaurant in town, it appears to have impeccable service. Facilities include a fitness room. Rooms from NTS $7,500 (about US $232). Location: 41 Min Chuan East Road, Section 2.
The Grand Hyatt (tel. 800/233-1234 or 886/2 2720-2345; www.taipei.grand.hyatt.com) is the hotel closest to what is, for now, the world's tallest building, Taipei 101, just across the street. This 15-year-old behemoth (nearly 900 rooms) is in the newest of Taipei's many newish business centers, next to the Convention Center and not far from several department stores. Facilities include six restaurants, pool, spa and business center. They don't publish rack rates, but on the phone in mid-November, their cheapest rate for a December 6 twin was US $221, (NT $7,450). Location: 2 Song Shou Road, Taipei.
The Far Eastern Plaza (tel. 886/2 2378-8888; www.shangri-la.com) is an impressive place, the kind of hotel where past presidents like to stay. That includes Bill Clinton, who was here in February on his tsunami-fund raising travels, and, allegedly, the past presidents of South Korea and the Philippines, who narrowly missed each other one morning while I looked on recently, the former arriving minutes after the latter departed. The rates match the prestige, starting from NT $10,000 for a double (about US $310), but that includes free airport transfers by limo, free laundry and cleaning service, free American or continental breakfast, free local calls and internet access, and a 6 p.m. checkout. In the latest "new" business district, not far from Taipei 101. Location: Taipei Metro, 201 Tun Hwa South Road, Section 2, Taipei 106.
Events
On January 29, 2006, the Chinese New Year is the country's most important holiday, with three days of festivities. All of the fun stops on February 12, with the Lantern Festival marking the end of the 15-day New Year period.
Contacts
The Golden Foundation Tours (e-mail: jean@gftours.com.tw; www.gftours.com.tw) people will organize your trip to Taiwan, saying they cater to all price ranges and every kind of special interest.
The international dialing code for Taiwan from the USA is 886. More information on the country is available at the website of the Taiwan Visitors Association, www.taiwan.net.tw or the North American version, www.go2taiwan.net. You can also phone or e-mail their office in New York City for advice and brochures: 1 East 42nd St., New York NY 10017, tel. 212/867-1623/34, e-mail: tbrocnyc@gmail.com. Note: The TVA plans to move to new quarters a bit farther west on 42nd St. in the near future.
Getting there
In addition to the country's leading international carrier, China Airlines, you can get there from North America on EVA Airways, another Taiwan-based outfit and also nonstop from the US West Coast. Other airlines, offering one-stop or two-stop services, include American (code sharing with EVA), ANA, Asiana, Continental (code sharing with EVA), Cathay Pacific, Delta (code sharing with China Airlines), JAL, Northwest, Singapore, United, US Airways and Varig. Be sure to check out such sites as Travelocity (www.travelocity.com), where in mid-November and early December, round-trip nonstop flights to Taipei were offered for $828 by China Airlines and $899 by EVA Airways from Los Angeles, for example.
