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March, 2004 -- Israel may not be the first destination that comes to mind nowadays when one thinks of a vacation spot, but despite the unrest that has plagued the country in recent years, Israel is actually a whole lot safer than one would think and there is much here to be recommended. For history and breadth of scenery, few places in the world can match it. To sample the variety of attractions this country has to offer logon to (www.tourism.gov.il/english/default.asp).
And this is one place where Americans are not just treated well, they are welcomed with open arms. Indeed, walking through the streets of Jerusalem this winter, one couldn't help but notice the signs posted in store windows thanking Americans for their support and patronage. Best of all, for Americans plagued by the falling value of the dollar abroad, Israel represents a bargain. At this writing, the exchange rate was 4.4 New Israeli Shekels (NIS) to the dollar.
Is it Safe?
Yes, it's on the U.S. State Department's warning list (travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html). Yes, some of its cities (notably Jerusalem, Netanya, and Tel Aviv) have been targeted and are still targeted for attack by Arab terrorist groups. Yes, you won't be able to enter most public buildings without having your bags searched, and the presence of security is highly visible. But by and large, Israel is a pretty safe country, and most visitors there feel quite safe. The only notable visible difference is the ubiquitous presense of armed military personnel, though they are not more prevalent, then say, the police presence in NYC. That said, I recommend avoiding public city buses and, if you're driving, to avoid getting close to territories in and around the Green Line and Gaza.
Getting Around
Israel's excellent and extensive bus system is the country's primary public transportation system. As such, it's also a favorite target of terrorists. In many cities, the buses are perfectly safe to use, but visitors might be more comfortable renting a car, taking taxis, or using private tour buses. Be advised, however, that New York cabbies have nothing on Israelis when it comes to lunatic driving. Israelis make lanes where there are none, zip along at ridiculous speeds and pass cars on one-lane highways at blind curves. One local summed up traffic circle ettiquette as "whoever decides to go first gets right of way." At least they have sense of humor about their crazy driving tactics: On the road from Eilat to Mitzpeh Rimon (an absolutely stunning scenic drive though the desert and mountains that I highly recommend), while driving up the side of a mountain with a sheer half-mile drop on the left side, I spotted a "no left turn" sign.
Eldan Rent-A-Car (www.eldan.co.il) is Israel's major rental company and usually offers excellent Internet deals, especially during off-season times. Be sure to budget for gasoline, which is far more expensive in Israel then it is in the U.S. (almost $3 a gallon).
The roads in Israel are generally kept in good condition, but most people should avoid driving desert and country roads after dark, as most are poorly signed and deserted, and most road maps contain inaccuracies (Eldan's road map proved the most on target on a trip there in January, but that isn't saying much). Be especially careful when driving in the mountains of the Negev, where sharp, blind curves are common. And, to be on the safe side, avoid driving near the Green Line and Gaza; if you're unsure about the safety of a particular route, ask the concierge at your hotel.
Eating in Israel
This is the Land of Milk and Honey, and the dining is generally excellent. On the whole, it's a whole lot easier to eat healthier in Israel than in the U.S., even if you won't find the fat-free products so prevalent in America. Vegetables and fruit don't cost an arm and a leg in Israel and are usually fresher and tastier than those served elsewhere (that pepper you just ate probably came from a farm only a few hours away). The same goes for dairy products, which are uniformly delicious.
Starting off the day in Israel offers a particularly good dining experience. The breakfasts at Israeli hotels make almost all other hotel breakfasts look like meagre pickings. Most buffets (almost always included in the room rate) would make a fabulous lunch or brunch buffet in the States. Items found at most spreads include hot dishes, made-to-order omelettes, cereals, fish (including tuna fish and smoked Salmon), cheeses, yogurt, pastries, fruit, vegetables, salads, assorted breads, eggs, and excellent juices.
One other cool dining tidbit: Israel very much emulates Europe in its devotion to café culture, and you'll find many a local sipping espresso (or a cup of tea) and talking politics at a sidewalk café. And giving credit where it's due -- and something of a surprise given Israel's seeming love of all things American -- you won't find a Starbucks here. You will find lots of mom-and-pop places, so park yourself in one, grab a pastry and a cappucino, and people-watch.
Note that many restaurants in Israel offer kosher food and adhere to the standards of kashrut, though the average visitor will hardly notice the difference (the kosher diner, on the other hand, is in for a treat as the sheer number and variety of restaurants in Israel is, not unsurprisingly, unmatched anywhere else). For more information on what kashrut entails, see www.frommers.com/destinations/israel/0227020880.html. An excellent website offering dining reviews and discount coupons for many excellent kosher restaurants in Israel (including most of those mentioned in this article) is Eluna (www.eluna.com).
One thing to keep in mind when patronizing restaurants (and hotels for that matter) is that the level of service in Israel is generally not fantastic, even at the best properties. Israelis have a pretty laid-back attitude and service is often slow and impersonal. So if you find a waiter or hotel clerk somewhat standoffish, know that it's the culture and shrug it off. Note also, that unlike other countries, putting a tip on a credit card is frowned on at restaurants. A waitress at an Eilat restaurant confided that tips put on credit cards never get to the servers -- that would make you feel surly, too. So feel free to pay your bills by credit card, but leave your tip in cash.
Note: Many restaurants in Israel tack on a security fee of about $1 per party to pay for the private security guards who monitor the doors. The fee is well worth the peace of mind.
Finding Hotel Bargains
Though many major hotel consolidators in the U.S. no longer carry a huge inventory of rooms in Israel, there are still plenty of hotel bargains to be had. Several Israeli-based Web consolidators and travel agents offer excellent hotel deals. Note that most discounters will bill the entire amount of your stay a week before your arrival date and that penalties can be stiff if you don't cancel a reservation by the required deadline. Be sure you note the reservations policies before booking.
Travel Deal Israel (www.traveldealisrael.com) is an Israel-based travel agency that books rooms at a number of major Israeli resorts and offers discounts up to 50% off standard rates. E-mail them at shlomo@traveldealisrael.com if you don't find what you need. I found them very responsive and helpful.
Hotels-in-Israel (www.hotels-in-israel.com) is a travel consolidator offering a large selection of discounted rooms at hotels throughout Israel. I got rooms at good discounts (usually around 30%) at supposedly sold-out hotels through their website. All-Israel (www.all-israel.com) is another Israel-based discounter that offers an array of discounted hotel rooms and special deals. And if you want more personal attention, you can get in touch directly with one of its travel agents. If you prefer to go through a hotel, you may be able to snag yourself a bargain by negotiating directly with your chosen hotel's reservations staff or checking its website for deals, especially now in the off-season.
A few notes about Israeli hotels: Most hotel rooms in Israel offer small guest rooms similar to those one would find in Europe rather than in the U.S. and I found many of the rooms I stayed in throughout the country to be more than just a little stuffy (on the plus side, many have windows that open or balconies). Be sure to specify the type of room you want (corner, high-floor, seaview, number of beds). Many hotels have non-smoking rooms, but there aren't that many of them, so be sure to request one and don't be surprised if you don't get it (one hotel that ran out of non-smoking rooms did have housekeeping come up to air my room out). On the plus side for families, Israeli hotels are usually very accustomed to dealing with kids and many of them offer special-style family accommodations and the major resorts usually offer programs for kids.
The City of Gold
Few cities in the world can claim the pedigree of Jerusalem (Yerushalayim, in Hebrew), which has been fought over for millenia and is holy to the Western World's three major religions. Of all of Israel's cities, this is the one that's been hurt most by the troubles of the past few years. I saw more than just a few boarded up shops and half-empty hotels while there. And the nightlife here -- never fabulous beyond the café scene to begin with -- has nosedived even more. That said, most sites are open and safe to visit, and bargains that would have been hard to come by a years ago are now readily available.
Where to Stay
The Dan Panorama (www.danhotels.com) offers an excellent location on Keren HaYesod, just a block or two from the Great Synagogue and a short walk from Independence Park. The member of the popular Israeli chain offers rooms that are a little cramped and stuffy by U.S. 5-star standards, but they are clean, comfortable, were recently renovated, and come with refrigerators (a supermarket is only a few blocks away). If your budget allows, opt for a superior room with a view of the Old City and a marble bathroom.
Other options in the area that got high marks from fellow travelers, included the Jerusalem Sheraton Plaza (www.Sheraton.com), right across from the Great Synagogue; and the landmark King David (www.danhotels.com), also run by Dan Hotels and a member of the Leading Hotels of the World.
Where to Dine
Some don't like it because "everybody goes there," but the kosher Rimon Café and Restaurant, 4 Lunz St. (02/624-3712) is a great place to eat, and its location, off the Ben Yehuda mall, is right in the thick of things. Rimon is actually two restaurants in one: A dairy café on on side and a meat restaurant on the other. The dairy section offers wonderful pastas (the spinach lasagna's divine), soups, salads, and very fresh fish. The meat restaurant features a great selection of grilled meats (including a wonderful rendition of schnitzel -- Israeli chicken cutlets). Prices at both restaurants are extremely reasonable, portions are huge, and both restaurant sections are open until 1am on most days, making this a great spot for a late-night bite. An outdoor patio makes for great people-watching in good weather.
Just a few blocks from Ben Yehuda at 33 Jaffa Road, the vegetarian-haven Village Green (02/625-3065), serves up fresh and yummy cuisine to a packed house at stellar prices. For less than $4, you can feast on a huge bowl of vegetable soup, a large roll, and a beverage. And my sister and I satisfied a late-night craving here one night over the restaurant's delicious organic apple pie. If you've got food allergies or are watching your weight, it's an ideal dining spot.
What to See & Do
The Wailing Wall
No visit to Jerusalem would be complete without a trip to the Kotel Ha Maa'ravi (known worldwide as the Wailing Wall, though it really translates from the Hebrew as the Western Wall). The only remnant of the Second Temple that was destroyed almost 2,000 years ago, it is Judaism's holiest site. Jews from all over the world gather here to pray and -- in a tradition going back for centuries -- to place small notes with requests for Divine assistance in the cracks of the stones at the base of the Wall. Nowadays, people can even e-mail requests to www.virtualjerusalem.com/sendaprayer, which are then placed amidst the stones. No matter what time of day you arrive, you'll find someone at the Wall.
Locals warned us not to walk thought the Old City and through the Armenian quarter to get to the Kotel, so the best way to get there is to drive through the Jaffa Gate to the parking lots at the top of a steep hill and walk down to the Wall or to take a taxi. If you drive, don't miss the fabulous views of the Old City (especially dramatic at sunset) from the parking lots and as you walk down to the Wall. Expect to be thoroughly searched before being allowed into the Wall's plaza (where some renovation work is currently underway). Security is even tighter on Friday nights and Jewish holidays, when the plaza teems with people.
Dos and Don'ts at the Wall: Though people of all faiths and religions are welcome to observe or pray at the Kotel, there are a few things visitors need to be aware of so as not to cause offense. Women should dress modestly (no short sleeves or miniskirts) and stick to the women's section on the right side of the plaza; men should cover their heads. Don't even think about bringing your camera or smoking during Shabbat or on Jewish holidays at the Kotel; when in doubt, ask. When you visit, you will notice Jews walking backwards when leaving the Kotel -- it's considered the height of disrespect to turn one's back on the place where God rests -- and though you aren't expected to do the same, making the effort will be looked upon favorably by the locals.
One final bit of advice: You may be approached by people asking for charity, as the Wall is a traditional spot for the poor and charitable organizations to collect money; feel free to give or politely refuse as you please. If you do give, you might be handed a piece of red string in return; don't refuse if it's offered -- it's considered a good luck charm by the religious and is usually worn tied around one's wrist.
Yad Vashem
Located on the appropriately named Har HaZikaron (Mountain of Rememberance), Yad Vashem (www.yad-vashem.org.il) is a must-visit, even if you don't know anyone who perished in the Holocaust. If you do -- and half my family perished in concentration camps -- it's that much more affecting. The History Museum, which marked its 50th anniversary in 2003, is both informative and horrifying in the way that it should be. The solemn exhibits and memorials are both educational and enlightening as they explore the history and aftermath of the Holocaust.
Perhaps most harrowing of all is a visit to the Children's Memorial, a masterpiece of design where visitors descend into a room that's dark but for more than a million points of light -- an effect achieved through memorial candles and mirrors -- as the names of every child who perished in the Holocaust is read around the clock. The effect is rendered more heartbreaking by the knowledge it takes years to read the 1.5 million names aloud. To end your visit on a somewhat uplifting note, head for the Avenue of the Righteous Among the Nations, where those who risked their lives to save Jews during the Holocaust are remembered for their heroism. Among the honored are such famous names as Raoul Wallenberg and Oskar Schindler, whose story was told in the Oscar-winning film Schindler's List.
Note: Yad Vashem is currently undergoing expansion and renovations, though all of the exhibits are expected to stay open during the process. Admission to the museum is free to all though, because of the subject matter, the museum recommends that parents refrain from bringing children under the age of 12 to Yad Vashem.
Shopping in Mea Ha Sh'arim
Ever wondered what the Shtetl life depicted in movies such as Fiddler on the Roof and Yentl was really like? Head for the ultra-religious neighborhood of Mea Ha Sh'arim, which starts at the corner of Strauss and Malchei Yisrael streets, about 8 blocks north of the Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall (though it might as well be a million lightyears away). Synagogues, religious schools, food shops, and Judaica stores line the winding streets. It's like stepping back in time -- if you can ignore the ever-present cellphones -- to 19th-century Europe.
Aside from the sheer novelty of the experience, the reason to come Mea Ha Sh'arim is to shop. If your interested in buying high-quality Judaica articles for relatively cheap prices, this is the place to do it. And unlike Israel's malls -- which, alas, feel too much like imitation American ones -- a trip here offers a unique shopping adventure. Many of the artisans work on-site and will customize pieces for you; other stores sell items that are nearly double or triple in price in North America. My sister picked up a museum-quality menorah made of marble, sterling silver, and crystal that retails for about $700 in the U.S. for less than $250. Other good buys here include sterling silver Judaica, embroidered tablecloths, carved cedarwood, exquisite lithographs, and jewelry. Prices have fallen over the past couple of years because of the dropoff in tourism and North Americans are highly valued as customers. Bargaining is not as common as it once was, though it does go on. Shopkeepers, by and large, are friendly, speak at least some English, and will be happy to advise you on purchases.
Do's and Don'ts: Don't even think of taking pictures when visiting this neighborhood. Leave the miniskirts, shortsleeves, and shorts (this last one goes for men, too) or you will likely invite hostility. If you get lost or need directions, do not approach someone of the opposite gender for assistance -- it's considered immodest. Also, be advised that most shopkeepers will place change for purchases on the counter and not in your hand because of modesty strictures. And, finally, stores here are closed on Shabbat and are a zoo on Friday, so for a less hectic shopping trip, try to come here during the middle of the week.
Side Trips from Jerusalem
There are numerous interesting places that make good day trips out of Jerusalem, so the two I discuss here are just the tip of the iceberg. For information on others, check out the main Israel section on Frommers.com.
Touring Tanks
Located in the Ayalon Valley, about halfway between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv off Hwy. 1, are two attractions recommended to me by locals that are well worth seeing but aren't well known outside of Israel. Both can be done easily on the same trip indeed, many organized tours pair them together. Yad LaShiryon (www.arcm-latrun.org.il/english/index_e.htm) is the Israeli Defense Force's Armored Corps Memorial Site & Museum on the grounds of the Latrun fortress. The location itself is historic and has been the site of many a historic military battle. This is where Joshua ordered the sun to stand still when the Israelites fought the Amorites, where Judah the Maccabee defeated the Seleucids, and where you can still see the remains of a 12-th century fortress that Saladin torched to prevent Richard the Lion-Hearted from advancing on Jerusalem during the Crusades. The fortress that now stands on the spot was built in 1943 by the British to imprison Jewish underground forces; it was the site of one of the fiercest battles in the 1948 War of Independence and the marks left by bullets and artillery shells during the fighting can still be found on its walls.
The main point of the museum is to commemorate Israel's fallen soldiers. The Wall of Names, similar in tone and structure to the U.S. Vietnam Memorial in Washington, D.C., lists the name of every Armored Corps soldier ever killed in battle. Exceptionally moving is the Gate of Heroism, where an eternal flame burns and a slideshow featuring the picture, name, age, and date of death of every soldier killed in battle is displayed. A brief film (an English audio translation is available) about the history of the corps is shown in the museum's theater and visitors are free to wander the premises. On-site is an exceptional collection of more than 200 tanks and armored fighting vehicles from every modern army in the world (a few are "split" open so you can see their interiors, and visitors are free to climb and crawl over the rest). All Armored Corps graduations take place in the ampitheatre at Yad LaShiryon, and you can often see recruits training here as well. Admission to museum and site costs NIS 25 ($5.70) per adult, with discounted rates available for children and seniors.
The Smaller They Are...
Just down the road from Yad LaShiryon is Mini Israel (www.minisrael.co.il). This unabashed tourist park, shaped like a Star of David, recreates many of the country's most important landmarks in the form of miniature models built to a scale of 1:25. It's very similar to Holland's famous Madurodam in both tone and technique, and it's just as enjoyable. The park separates Israel into small geographic regions and features landmarks from all faiths and cultures. The models are impressive in their detail: the planes at the mock-up of Ben Gurion airport actually taxi on runways, and praying pilgrims at the Western Wall sway back and forth. Though by no means a substitute for an actual visit, because it's inadvisable to travel to a number of Israel's most notable sights right now, the park represents your best chance to see what some of the country's best known landmarks look like. Notable recreations include the Old City of Jerusalem (including the Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock), the Bahai Terrace Gardens at Haifa, and the Cave of the Patriarchs in Hebron. The family-friendly park has a restaurant on the premises and is fully accessible to the disabled. Admission to the park costs NIS 54 ($12.25) per adult, with discounted rates available for children, seniors, and families. It takes about 2 hours to see it all.
Going Back to the Time of Caesar
About a 60-minute drive from Jerusalem and a 30-minute drive north of Tel Aviv, Caesarea (pronounced kay-sahr-eea in Hebrew) National Park (www.parks.org.il) is situated on Israel's famed Gold Coast, right off the Mediterranean Sea. It's a hidden gem that's often overlooked but is well worth the trip out of Jerusalem.
The city of Caesarea Maritima was built between 22 and 10 BC, back when Israel was still under the domination of Rome. The city, built by Herod the Great to honor Augustus Caesar, was home to luxurious buildings, an ampitheater, temples, and marketplaces. Caesarea's incredible harbor was reportedly one of the most modern in its day, but had the misfortune of being built on top of two geological fault lines -- an earthquake sank the entire structure sometime before the 3rd century AD. The city itself is where the Jewish rebellion against Rome that ultimately led to the destruction of the Second Temple was touched off. It's also the place where the Holy Grail was reportedly discovered by Baldwin I (the vessel in question was carted off to Italy, where it now resides in Genoa) when crusaders captured the city in 1101.
After centuries of being sacked by various invaders, Caesarea was left abandoned until the mid 1940s, when archaeologists moved in and began digging. The results are a magnificent collection of preserved ruins from both the Crusader and early Roman eras. Visitors to the park can stroll through a couple of thousand years of history as they walk through some of the well-preserved structures, including a hippodrome and some storehouses that survive from Herod's day. Most impressive of all is the Roman Theater. The 2-millenia-old theater still seats 3,500 (go ahead, sit in the king's throne, he isn't going to stop you!), has impressive acoustics (which you can experience firsthand at the performances held here in summer), and offers a breathtaking view of the Mediterranean. Walk along the lovely seashell beach; the view of the sea is especially exquisite at sunset. Admission to both the park and Roman Theater costs NIS 26 ($5.90) for adults, with discounts available for children.
Note: Safey issues aside, don't even think about taking a bus to the park; the timing and routes are extremely awkward. If you don't have a rental-car, come with an organized tour company. One licensed tour operator that offers tours to Caesarea out of either Jerusalem is Ben-HarimTourism Service (www.benharim.co.il).
A Quick Trip to Tiberias
It's one of the holiest cities in Israel, but you'd never know it when you first drive into Tiberias (called Teverya in Hebrew), situated right off the Kinneret (aka the Sea of Galilee) in the northeast region of the country. Though Tiberias and the area surrounding it is revered by Christians and Jews alike, and the Kinneret is undeniably beautiful, the city has oddly commercial feel to it. It felt rather bizarre to see a whole bunch of retail stores surrounding some of the holiest sites in the country. Note: Of all the cities I visited in Israel, this one was the hardest hit by the lack of tourism. Though the historic sites themselves have been kept up quite well, the hotels and restaurants have suffered greatly and, as a result, some haven't bothered to renovate when they should have.
Where to Stay & Dine
The Sheraton Moriah (www.sheraton.com) right off the harbor could use some upgrading though it's still the best in town. The public rooms are suitably grand and the guest rooms are large for Israel, though somewhat stuffy. Many of the rooms offer balconies with stunning views of the water or the city and surrounding mountains. Other pluses include fresh fruit and bottled water upon check-in, and refrigerators. The soundproofing, however, needs work (ask for a room on a high floor to minimize noise from the boardwalk below); the rooms themselves need some freshening up, and the small bathrooms could definitely use some renovations. It's a good hotel that could get back to the 5-star status it claims for itself with a little work.
For fine dining in Tiberias, head to Decks (lido-galilee.com/decks/index.html), right off Lido Beach and just a few blocks walk from the major harbor hotels. The dining room offers large windows with picture-perfect views of the Kinneret and candle-lit tables. The menu features an assortment of fresh grilled meats and fish prepared with spices, vegetables, and wines from the Galilee region. The food is tasty and the preparation and presentation are excellent, though the portions are somewhat skimpy for the price.
Visiting the Tombs of Tiberias
Some of Judaism's holiest sites are located in Tiberias and attract visitors from all over the world. Entrance to all tombs is free and many are open 24 hours a day. For exact opening times, ask the concierge at your hotel. The tomb ofRabbi Moshe Ben Maimon or the Rambam (known in English as Maimonides), is about a 10-minute walk from the harbor off Yochanan Ben Zakai street. The 12th-century Spanish scholar was a revered philosopher, an expert on Jewish law, and an accomplished physician (he was, at one point, the court physician to Saladin). The 14 marble pillars that frame the path to the tomb represent the 14 sections of his landmark work on Judaic law, the Mishna Torah. To the left of the path as you enter, you'll also find the graves of a number of other Jewish luminaries, including Rabbi Yochanan Ben Zakkai, a descendant of the House of David who led the Jews through the era of the Second Temple's destruction; Rav Ami and Rav Assi, the 3rd-century scholars who were the moving forces behind the compilation of the Jewish Talmud; and Rabbi Yeshaya Horowitz (the Sh'lah HaKadosh), a renowned 17th-century Kabbalist (and an ancestor of the writer of this article).
One of the most revered figures in Judaism, Rabbi Akiva rose from an illiterate life as a peasant shepherd to become one of the renowned scholars of the 2nd century. One of the Ten Martyrs of Rome, he was skinned alive by the Romans after supporting the Bar Kochba uprising in A.D. 135 and was buried in Tiberias. His conspicuous tomb (you can't miss the blue dome atop it) is located on a hill in the western section of the city. Interestingly, his beloved wife Rachel -- herself a revered figure -- is not buried with him, but in a tomb off HaNoter Street.
A less-publicized tomb of interest is the Tomb of the Matriarchs (Kever Ha Imahos) on HaShomer St. In it are buried some of the most famous women of the Bible, including Bilhah and Zilpa, the two secondary wives of Jacob and mothers of four of the twelve tribes of Israel; Yocheved and Tzippora, respectively the mother and wife of Moses; Elisheva, the wife of Aaron; and Avigail, one of the wives of King David.
The most-visited of all the Jewish sites in Tiberias, the Tomb of Rabbi Meir Baal HaNess, is set on a hill overlooking the city's famous hot springs, just outside the city proper. Rabbi Meir, was a 2nd century sage renowned for his commentaries on Jewish law (he acquired the nickname, the Illuminator for this reason), and was famous as a worker of miracles (Baal HaNess means Master of Miracles in Hebrew). Jews from all over the planet visit here to pray that personal and medical problems be solved in the rabbi's merit. It's traditional to give charity at the tomb.
Web information on the area is hard to come by, but for more details on Tiberias and the Galil region, check out www.ancientroute.com/cities/Tiberias.htm or www.us-israel.org/jsource/vie/Tiberias.html.
The Dead Sea: Masada, Massages, and More
The shores of the the Dead Sea (www.dead-sea.net) bare hardly without signs of life, but despite the Israelis and visitors who flock to the sea's resorts, the area exudes peace and quiet. There is nothing more tranquil in winter then strolling along the temperate shores of the sea and taking in the views of the water and surrounding mountains. Alas, recent scientific evidence has discovered the sea is shrinking in size because it's main water source, the Jordan River, is being diverted for agricultural use and human consumption. Scientists are currently working to save the sea, but the area is likely to change in character, so if you want to see it in all its glory, do it now.
The Dead Sea's main resort town, Ein Bokek, offers a host of beaches, resorts, and spa facilities. It's also the place to buy the Dead Sea's famous spa cosmetics and lotions -- tourist shops selling the products abound (buy in the shops and not at the resorts themselves for the best prices). You won't find it hard to succumb to temptation, especially when you get a look at the prices, which are almost 50% lower than in North America (and having used the stuff, I now wish I'd bought more).
Tip: The water at the Dead Sea may be great to bathe in (it's been proven effective in treating several medical conditions), but it's not for drinking. At most hotels, the salt content of the tap water is too high to consume, so each floor has a water dispenser next to the usual ice machine.
Also, if you do decide to take a dip in the Dead Sea, be sure you don't have any cuts or scrapes -- you'll literally be pouring salt on an open wound (the Hebrew name for the sea, Yam Ha Melach, literally means Sea of Salt) and it won't be a cherished memory of your trip. On the other hand, if you're not the world's most confident swimmer, here's one of the safest places on the planet for you to swim -- the high mineral content of the water keeps everything afloat, so it's virtually impossible to drown.
Where to Stay & Dine
The Hyatt Regency Dead Sea Resort & Spa, the class of the cluttered group of hotels found along the northern section of Ein Bokek's shore, ended its affiliation with Hyatt just as this article went to press and has joined up with the Israeli-based Fattal hotel chain (www.fattal-hotels-israel.com). What that may mean for the future of the hotel (and its name) is uncertain, but at the moment it has every facility you could want in a resort. The immaculately kept guest rooms are large, luxurious and feature a full array of amenities, from refrigerators to balconies sporting splendid sea views. The bathrooms are especially enticing, with deep tubs, separate showers and spa toiletries. Best of all, this is the only hotel in Israel that I stayed in that managed to get the room temperature right. The hotel's excellent and immense Mineralis Spa offers an immense number of treatment options and packages, all for very reasonable prices (I got an ultra-relaxing 30-minute Head, Neck and Shoulder Massage for about $30, including tip). The dining here is the best in town (especially now that the Giraffe Noodle Bar at the nearby Crowne Plaza has closed), offering both quality and quantity at a decent if not spectacular price.
Note: Several drains to reduce flash flooding in the area during the rainy season are currently being built near the hotel, making the pathway to the hotel's private beach a little tough going. If the construction is still on when you go, take the resort's free shuttle.
What to See & Do
The region surrounding the Dead Sea is home to one of the most famous fortresses on the planet and a historic natural park of exceptional beauty.
Climbing Masada
A legendary symbol of courage and freedom to Jews everywhere, Masada (www.parks.org.il) is a must when touring Israel. The ruins of the stronghold built by Herod the Great in the 1st century AD are among the best in the country. You can tour the northern palace with its immense bathhouse, water cisterns, and storehouses; and see how the 900 Jews who held off 10,000 Roman troops for 3 years lived before comitting mass suicide in AD 73. And the views from the top of the mountain are nothing short of spectacular.
Ascending Masada -- situated 1,300 feet above sea level -- is an Israeli rite of passage and if you're up to the climb, I highly recommend it. Yes, it's difficult, but that only makes it easier for the visitor to envision what the Roman armiess faced when they set siege to the mountain. Climb the steep steps of the Snake Path up the side of the mountain and one cannot help but pity the army that had to try and get up to the top. The Romans decided it was easier to build their own access route and you use this easier path if you choose, or you can take the cable car that climbs from the Visitor Center to the top of the mountain.
A few notes about climbing: Climbing to the top of the mountain is arduous, but climbing down -- though less physically draining -- can be downright scary, especially if you and heights don't get along. If you're out of shape, this is not the place to try and get into it; even the most physically fit hikers are drained by the time they've gone up and down the mountain. Don't even think of climbing without a hat, plenty of water, and sunscreen (even in winter!). If officials deem the weather too hot (pretty much all of the summer, making winter and spring the best time to visit here), or it gets too late in the afternoon, the paths are closed and you'll be forced to take the cable car. The price of admission to Masada varies according to the way you get to the fortress; entrance fees range from NIS 23 ($5.90) for adults hiking both ways to NIS 61 ($13.90) for adults who take the cable car in both directions. Children get a 50% discount.
Hiking Ein Gedi
Masada isn't the only historical park in the area. Ein Gedi National Reserve (www.parks.org.il) is an oasis in the midst of a desert. Mentioned several times in the Bible, it offers hikers the chance to tread the same ground as King David along a variety of trails. And, thanks to its abundance of wildlife, you can also get up close with a number of animals, including an Ibex (though we advise avoiding the leopards and hyenas -- some trails here close before dusk to avoid the possibility of an unintended introduction). The easiest and most popular trail, Nachal Arugot, takes you inside one of Ein Gedi's canyons to some beautiful waterfalls created by the natural springs that feed the reserve (those caves -- where David hid from Saul -- behind the waterfalls are no longer accessible to visitors because of rock slides, but the waterfalls themselves are worth the trip). The hike takes about an hour round-trip.
Note: While you're at the reserve, be sure to see the remains of the 4th-century synagogue that was uncovered during excavations here. The synagogue's beautiful Byzantine style mosaic tile floor is wholly intact -- a perfectly preserved piece of ancient Israel. Admission to both the reserve and the synagogue costs NIS 26 ($5.90) adults; children get a 50% discount. Be sure to get a hiking trail map when you buy your admission; it lists all of the hiking trails in the park and rates their difficulty levels.
Sun and Fun in Eilat
You won't find holy spots in Eilat, unless you're in search of the perfect dive or tan. The city is renowned for its beaches, diving, clubs, and fabulous resorts, though some may find the city a bit tacky and lacking in character (sort of like Cancun). The city serves as a port, but it thrives on tourism, and as a result has suffered a downturn because of Israel's terrorism problem (indeed, when I was there during winter high season, all but a handful of resorts were busy). The good news for North Americans looking for a warm place to tan in winter and spring is that the Europeans who used to flock here in winter have been replaced by Israelis who head down here in summer (when the temperature gets obscenely hot). As a result, normal winter high-season rates have been slashed and bargains abound.
Tip: Eilat is a tax-free zone that doesn't assess Israel's normal 18% VAT and you'll see stores touting that fact all over town. That said, with the exception of gasoline, which is much cheaper here than anywhere else in Israel, you won't find too many bargains because everything has to be shipped here through the desert. Save your tax-free shopping binge for Ben Gurion airport's Duty Free store, which is one of the best in the world.
Where to Stay & Dine
Your best bet for getting a good price on a room in Eilat is to go through a consolidator or an Israel-based travel agent.
The Hilton Eilat Queen of Sheba (www.hilton.com) resort is currently the place to stay in Eilat. Opened in 2000, the Egyptian-themed hotel has a magnificent atrium lobby with glass elevators, a fabulous pool area, a great spa, and a lounge offering delicious light fare. A small shopoping mall with access to the boardwalk is adjacent to the resort. The comfortable and large guestrooms offer an array of amenities, including refrigerators and balconies, though the tiled bathrooms are small (and the water pressure in the shower was downright awful). The rooms facing the pool on the top floors offer the most quiet and best views. My biggest complaint: The rooms are plagued by the same overheated stuffiness that was so prevalent on my trip to Israel.
The only other hotels that were buzzing with visitors were two other major deluxe resorts on the city's North Beach: the Isrotel Royal Beach (www.isrotel.co.il) and the Sheraton Herod's Resort & Spa (www.sheraton.com).
In the dining department, Wang's Grill (08/636-8989), at the Isrotel Royal Beach, has a lovely Chinese-themed interior that's perfect for an elegant night out, and though the meat-filled and Asian-inspired menu is limited, the food is quite good. The service is excellent and the desserts are divine.
It may lack an elegant atmosphere, but for both quantity and quality at very reasonable prices, head into town to Halleluya (08/637-5752), adjacent to the Edomit Hotel. The oriental décor at this kosher restaurant is a touch haphazard, but the food is delicious and portions are plentiful. Stick to the Israeli menu -- the kitchen puts out a mean grilled chicken -- and enjoy the little extras you get, including the Middle Eastern salad samplers (the eggplant salad is especially good) and the deliciously fresh pita. Service could get a tad slow, but was very gracious and welcoming.
What to See & Do
Most visitors spend their time on the beaches or in the water. All of the major resorts have tour desks that can set you up on whatever outdoor activity your heart desires, or you can check with the Tourist Center, though the offerings there are not much better than you'll find at the hotels. Your hotel room should have a copy of the useful Welcome Eilat tourist magazine that's put out every quarter; if it doesn't, ask your hotel's concierge. For information on the city, head to www.eilat.net or call 08/637-2111.
Warning: Almost every map of Eilat incorrectly identifies the Tourist Center's location as being on Arava & Yotam roads. The center is now located on the shopping promenade, about a 5-minute walk from the Queen of Sheba mall.
I Want to be Under the Sea...
Eilat's Coral World Underwater Observatory (www.coralworld.com/eilat) is the city's best attraction and is justifiably famous for its exceptional views of marine life in the crystal-clear waters of the Gulf of Eilat. Aside from the park's observatories that give you a stunning peek at life at the bottom of the sea, there are also several tanks filled with sharks and other Red Sea creatures (including some Stingrays as big as a small car), a rather disappointing simulator ride that's not worth the extra cost, an aquatic museum filled with exotic fish and coral (including camouflage and "flashlight" fish), and a brand new exhibit featuring reptiles and marine life (including piranha) from the Amazon. For about $44 extra, you can even take a dive in a 47-passenger Yellow Submarine. Tip: Be sure to pick up the free electronic guide that offers some fascinating commentary (available in English) on all of the exhibits. The cost of admission to the park only is NIS 63 ($14.30) adults and NIS 45 ($10.25) kids. If you want to go to the park and the Oceanarium Simulator (and I can't recommend it), the cost is NIS 76 ($17.30) adults, NIS 58 ($13.20) kids.
At the Zoo
If you're driving to Eilat on Route 90, you'll inevitably pass the Yotavta Hai Bar Nature Reserve (www.parks.org.il/ParksENG/company_card.php3?CNumber=422155), which is definitely worth a stop (particularly if you have kids along for the ride). The reserve is dedicated to breeding and saving rare desert species of animals (many mentioned in the Bible), including several nocturnal and predator animals. There are two touring options and you can do one or the other if time is an issue: a walking tour of several enclosures (about 30 minutes), and a drive-through safari (about 1 1/2 hours). Some of the rare animals you'll see include the almost satanic-looking caracal, the wild Asian oneger, the nocturnal fat sand mouse, the Arabian oryx, fennecs, and leopards. Admission to the reserve depends on the option you choose. If you do wither the walking tour or the safari, the price is NIS 23 ($5.25) per adult, half of that for kids. If you do both options, then the price is NIS 39 ($8.90) per adult, half that for kids.
Amazing World
The newest attraction in Eilat, Amazing World (www.coralworld.com/amazing) combines audio-animatronics with special effects, 3-D visuals and simulator technology. The Queen of Sheba (the attraction is in the Queen of Sheba mall, hence the choice of narrator) guides you as you start a journey from the Earth's beginning through man's conquest of space. Along the way, you'll escape a dinosaur's wrath, see a volcano "explode," battle the forces of nature, and soar into the depths of space. Amazing World clearly has Epcot-like aspirations, but never gets there, which is more than just a tad disappointing given Israel's exceptional technical know-how. What makes this worth doing is the attraction's Hitchcock-style black hole simulation: thanks to an optical illusion, you really will feel like you're floating in zero gravity (or are starring in a remake of Vertigo).
Note: Tickets to the event cost NIS 48 ($10.90) adults, discounts available for kids. Only a few performances during the week are given in English, so be sure to get tickets to the correct showing.
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