Deep-sea divers and snorkeling enthusiasts consider Belize to be the scuba capital of the Western Hemisphere. Its barrier reef is the second largest in the world after Australia, and Jacques Costeau's Black Hole, a Mecca for divers worldwide, sits a few miles off the Belizean Coast.
Even better, Belize and its pretty atolls make for an affordable vacation paradise. Beautiful water, friendly locals and a laid-back island atmosphere create a terrific alternative to the more commercial and crowded Bahamian and Caribbean destinations.
Most package deals to Belize do not include airfare into Belize City, so you'll need to book the flight yourself. Direct flights from Houston to Belize City cost $443 roundtrip on Continental (www.continental.com/). Specials from Boston to Belize City and back cost $294 on American (www.aa.com/) while flights from New York through Miami cost $391.
The only thing you need to know about Belize City is that you fly into it and catch a connecting flight out of it. Don't stay. It's slightly dangerous and dirty. Catch a quick transfer to the Caye of your choice on one of the country's two 12-seat prop plane airlines -- Tropic Air (800-422-3435; www.tropicair.com/) or Maya Air (www.mayaairways.com/).
Ambergris Caye, the largest of Belize's atolls, has a quaint atmosphere and a coast dotted with small luxury and budget hotels. The only cars on the island are taxi vans and pick-up trucks that maneuver along the dirt roads accompanied by tourist golf carts and bikes. No place on the island is dressy, and flip-flops are the only shoes you'll need.
Most of the package deals offered through the hotels pay for the round-trip flight from the mainland. Also, all hotels offer some sort of diving or snorkeling packages or daytrips through the island's boat tour operators. The Victoria House, (www.victoria-house.com) the island's most spectacular property, has an Internet-only special the "2004 Barefoot Elegance Special" that cuts 25% from its regular prices until December 22, 2004. For just $1980 per couple, you get five nights in a free-standing ocean view casita, one day use of a golf cart to tour the island, a day of snorkeling, a trip to Mayan ruins, and best of all, daily breakfast and dinner at the hotel's restaurant where they bake their own breads. The service at the Victoria House is impeccable, the view from the pool dreamy.
If you're traveling on a shoestring, Ambergris Caye has plenty of smaller hotels that start at $45. welinktravel.com/offers rooms at the Banana Beach Resort starting at $54.
For an insider's view, eat at the jerk chicken place in the town square, drink at the Shark Bar at the end of the dock, and pay a visit to Belizean Art (www.Belizeanarts.com), a combination gallery, museum, and art dealership that sells Belizean folk art, beautiful jewelry and other native artifacts. Don't miss the local food carts near the town square where you can get excellent rice and beans for less than $3.
All general information regarding hotels, restaurants and shops can be found at www.ambergriscaye.com.
Nearby Caye Caulker is even quieter and more rustic than Ambergris Caye. A 15-minute puddle jump from Belize City, Caye Caulker's sleepy, bohemian atmosphere and relaxed lifestyle appeals to travelers who want to leave the rest of the world behind and enjoy a no hassles, no worries vacation. It's the kind of place a traveler can just show up and decide where to stay, eat, drink, sit or swim.
Hotels resemble boarding houses more than they do luxury resorts, but who's complaining when prices start at $15 and top off at $125? Lena's Guest House is a cute, comfortable place to rest your head and rooms start at $15. (Speaking of cheap, a beer costs $1 and flights from Belize City to Caye Caulker on Tropic or Maya Air cost around $55 round trip.)
To contact Lena's or to get more information on Caye Caulker, go to www.gocayecaulker.com.