Nassau, the pretty hillside capital city of the Bahamas, is plagued by traffic and massive cruise ships. Thousands of cruise passengers are shuttled to nearby Atlantis resort, completely bypassing the Bahamas' greatest assets -- its exuberant culture, down-home cooking, and -- most of all -- its friendly, welcoming people, ranked among the happiest in the world. To get a true feel for the Bahamas, try out these experiences while in Nassau.
The People to People Program
A popular saying in the Bahamas is "all-a we is one," and that spirit of togetherness can be found in People to People program, which matches visitors with more than 1,500 Bahamian families (www.bahamas.com/bahamas/people-people). Bahamians are so proud of their culture that they actually pay to apply to be a host. I was treated to dinner at the home of the former Prime Minister's daughter and the company of a dozen Bahamian friends. They broke out into song, taught me an Electric-Slide type dance called the hullabaloo, and whipped up a huge buffet that included lobster thermidor, conch fritters, cheesy potato salad, and ginger-apple pie. Later, they all got down on the dance floor at Da Tambrin Tree (see below).
Graycliff Hotel
This grande dame of the Bahamas the Graycliff (www.graycliff.com) was built in 1740 by a pirate, and later run by Al Capone's girlfriend, Roxie Roker. The pink mansion and its lush grounds are home to many superlatives: It was originally the site of the Bahamas' first Anglican church, and today houses the third largest private wine cellar in the world (with more than 250,000 bottles), the world's oldest bottle of wine (a German dessert wine from 1727), and largest water menu (with 60+ varieties). But there are simpler pleasures to be had here too, like relaxing by the newly renovated Alhambra-style pool, or indulging in a cigar from the in-house cigar factory. Whether you stay at the hotel or not, make dinner at the elegant Graycliff restaurant your top priority. Highlights include their house cocktail (made with calvados and kir royale) and a fragrant guava soufflé with cream sauce, a must-try.
Junkanoo
The best time to visit the Bahamas is during their uproarious celebration of Junkanoo, which takes place on Boxing Day (December 26) and New Year's Day. Creating the brightly colored costumes and spirited dance routines for the parade is serious business for Bahamians, who are strictly loyal to their Junkanoo group and practice once a week for the entire year in preparation for the event (just don't ever compare it to Mardi Gras, or you'll get a talking to). If you can't see Junkanoo in person, head to the Junkanoo's Educulture Museum (www.educulturebahamas.com). Arlene Nash Ferguson opened the museum in her childhood home, filling it with elaborate costumes and historic items from Junkanoos past. It's a great place to bring kids -- they can recreate the joyous cacophonous music using cowbells, whistles, and drums, and then try on some of the headwear (they're heavy!).
Fish Fry at Arawak Cay
It's all about conch in the Bahamas, especially at the row of fish shacks next to Arawak Cay. At Jus Native Seafood, you can get it prepared more than half a dozen different ways. The fresh conch salad and conch fritters are satisfying, and you can also dig into a giant red snapper. Just beware of the Over the Rainbow cocktail, with six shots of Bacardi.
Da Tambrin Tree
Da Tambrin Tree (Summerwinds Plaza, Tonique Williams-Darling Highway) is a Nassau favorite, and is especially popular on Friday nights. Try to catch energetic local act Visage if they're playing -- the 13-member group is known as the Bahamas' top party band.
Need a lift? Call up local legend Romeo of Romeo's Executive Limousine & Taxi Service (tel. 242/363-4728). He'll regale you with stories about the Bahamas on your way.
Talk with fellow Frommer's travelers in our Bahamas Forum today.