November 5, 2003 -- When I perused my library of travel books seeking a perfect girls' weekend with my best friend Michelle, I conjured wispy images of sunsets and long strolls along a beach walking off bellies plump with decadent food. The island of Nantucket in the quiet autumn season immediately came to mind as a perfect place for long heart-to-hearts against the backdrop of sand dunes and lighthouses, blissful puttering through boutiques and bookstores along quaint cobblestone alleys, grins and giggles over gourmet meals and great wine.
This picturesque island, 30 miles off the Cape Cod coast and a dot of only 3 1/2 by 14 miles of land, is an escape to another era, when life was unrushed and wide empty spaces dominated landscapes. You can fly to Nantucket, or take a 21/2 hours car ferry, but we opted to glide off the mainland via HyLine's high-speed passenger ferry (tel. 888/778-1132 or 508/778-2602; www.hy-linecruises.com), zipping from Hyannis to Nantucket in just over an hour.
A short cab ride later, we landed at our home for the weekend, Cliffside Beach Club at 46 Jefferson Ave. (tel. 508/228-0618 or 800/932-9645; www.cliffsidebeach.com). It is located directly on Jetties beach, a 15-minute walk from the town center on the island's north shore. Originally opened in 1924 as a structure of multiple, attached beach cabanas, it became a private club in 1949 and later, in the 70's, the conversion into a hotel begun. Today, it still retains 120 old-fashioned beach cabanas coveted by the120 lucky, and evidenced by a proud row of antique keys hanging along a wall opposite the front desk. This commitment to tradition paired with its modern amenities continues into the 25 guest rooms, where each room contains furnishings built by Nantucket craftsmen. High season rates: $380-$605 double; $730-$1,485; $760 three bedroom apartment; $925 cottage. Closed mid-October to late May. Rates are based on double occupancy and include continental breakfast. Additional guest charge is $25 per room. 5.7% state tax, 4% local tax, and 5.3% service charge will be added to your room rate. Most rooms include one queen-sized bed, sleep sofa, and ocean views; some have private decks.
Our enchantment with the place started in the lobby roofed by enormous lofted ceiling with quilts hanging overhead. The wood-burning aroma of a crackling fireplace, the wide picture windows covering three walls, and the white wicker furniture amidst a forest of thriving plant life all whispered in my ear: Warm. Natural. Soothing. Intimate.
The room confirmed these impressions: a queen size bed with a bright orange quilt, a plush leather couch and a wide, wooden coffee table serenely beckoned us. The bathroom was with a spacious earth-toned granite shower was pure luxury while the lofted, cathedral ceilings and a few stalks of lucky bamboo in a large vase (a touch of feng shui, perhaps?) made me think "the positive energy is definitely a-flowin'". When we found out that our back door opened up to a floor of smooth sand -- the vast beachfront butted right up against our door -- Michelle's eyes grew as she exclaimed, "Is that the beach? Oh, wow!" I thought, this is Heaven.
The next day, we toasted bagels and grabbed coffee at the buffet table in the lobby, humming along to the Norah Jones CD playing in the background and smiling back at an enormous, jovial stuffed-animal ape reclining in a wicker chair next to the entrance. A staff member revealed that in the summer, when the club is at 100% and the lobby is bustling with beachgoers, the ape serves as a safety device: when children flee their families on the beach and sprint through the lobby, the hug-me pleeeeze faced ape stops them dead in their tracks every time, without fail.
We walked off breakfast with the short walk into town and an afternoon perusing the shops of main street, stopping a few hours later to perch ourselves at a vinyl-stool lined, 50's-style counter inside Congdon's Pharmacy, 47 Main St. (tel. 508/228-0020) an old-fashioned drug store, to slurp homemade ice-cream sodas. Full stomachs and hard morning of shopping definitely earned us a lazy late afternoon reading and daydreaming while staring out at the wide expanse of sand and dozing to the sound of the crashing waves. After all, we had to gather our strength for dinner.
That night was our abuse-the-credit-card night -- not exactly challenging since Nantucket lures master chefs from all over the world. We chose the highly recommended Boarding House, 12 Federal St. (tel. 508/228-9622) open year-round (July-Aug daily 6-10pm; call to find out off-season hours). Reservations are recommended here and the main courses range from $26 to $36. Upon arrival, we passed a roaring bar and descended a few steps below to a cozy space with arched ceilings and flickering candlelight. After a velvety glass of Argentinian Malbec paired with a tender, herbed duck breast and a perfect revive-your-senses filet mignon, dessert was a no-brainer for two chocoholics: the deep, dark, intense chocolate terrine hit us like a smooth Italian expresso.
On our last day, we explored the island on the best form of Nantucket transportation: bicycles. You can rent any kind of bike and explore every corner of the island. Through the arrangements made by Cliffside Beach Club our bikes were delivered directly to the hotel. We set out along the winding 10-mile Polpis bike route for Siaconset (pronounced "Sconset"), a village on the other end of the island. The paved trail took us passed wide fields, cranberry bogs, and a lighthouse, and we happily chatted the entire way, rarely passing other cyclists. After an hour-long ride, we approached the outskirts of our destination Michelle smiled and said "Life is good in Siaconset" as we passed a car's license plate that read "NO WOREEZ". We entered the main village center in awe of a cluster of mini-houses, their front doors barely tall enough to enter, and marveled at the old well erected in 1776. Each diminutive house on the narrow lane had a name: La Petit Cottage, Willow Harp, The Gift, In Out, and best of all, two homes side by side, the larger named Too Big, and the smaller, Big Enough.
Nantucket in the autumn or spring is a truly quiet way. The island bursts with tourists in the high season, its year-round population of only 14,000 escalating to 50,000 in the summer months. In the shoulder-season, the traffic subsides on the roads and bike paths, the locals have time to give you advice and tell you stories, and the cool, crisp days are perfect for a long walk in a thick sweater along the windy coast. The air clears your head, the stars encourage you to spin on an empty beach, and time trickles by. We'll be back.
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