St. Thomas
Where to Stay
Instead of staying at a hotel, many visitors, especially those with families, are now heading for The Anchorage, Antilles Resorts in Christiansted (tel. 800/874-7897). Rentals, opening onto beachfront, are in two- and three-bedroom suites at Cowpet Bay, site of the chic St. Thomas Yacht Club. The units come with washing machines and dryers and a fully equipped kitchen. On site is a casual restaurant serving international food, and there are several facilities for the sports minded, including a freshwater outdoor pool and two tennis courts.
Where to Dine
If you'd like a light lunch, or else coffee and pastry in the afternoon, the new hot spot is R & J's Island Latte, 33 Raadets Gade (tel. 340/777-8100), in Charlotte Amalie. An islander, Juel Smith, teamed with her Seattle-born husband, Ron Norton, to open this upmarket West Indian coffeehouse, serving cups of coffee with beans imported from either Puerto Rico or Jamaica. The beans are roasted on site and hand blended. Islanders themselves prefer "Island Latte," made with coconut and Irish cream. There is also a limited menu, and the croissant sandwiches are delectable as are the wraps and paninis.
Fun in the Surf & Sun
Many outfitters come and go with the seasons, and there are always new offerings for arriving visitors. Island Yachts, for example, is at 6100 Red Hook Quarter 18B, Red Hook (tel. 340/775-6666), renting sail boats and power boats with or without crew. Without a crew, you need to show that you can handle a craft at sea. VIP Yacht Charters, Route 32, Estate Frydenhoj (tel. 340/774-9224), is a competitor, operating out of the Compass Point Marina.
Good reports are coming in for Underwater Safaris, Havensight Mall, Building VI, Route 30 (tel. 340/774-1350), in Charlotte Amalie. This PADI affiliate is a five-star dive center, specializing in trips to the reefs around Buck Island (off the coast of St. Croix) and to the most scenic and dramatic of the offshore wrecks off the coast of St. Thomas. Another PADI five-star center, Chris Sawyer Diving Center (tel. 340/775-7320) specializes in dives to the famous wreck of the Rhone in the British Virgin Islands.
For landlubbers, Cindy Born (tel. 340/714-1672; www.st-thomas.com/walktour) features a 2-hour walking tour of the historic district of Charlotte Amalie. Visitors make reservations for the tours that start at 9:30am and 12:30pm Monday to Friday, leaving from Emancipation Garden. The cost is $20 per person.
St. John
Where to Stay
On the outskirts of Cruz Bay (the main settlement to St. John) stands Coconut Coast Villas, Turner Bay (tel. 340/693-9100), overlooking the water. This is a little condo complex of nine units, consisting of studios, two-, or three-bedroom units. The studios are a bit larger than the standard hotel double, but the apartments are very spacious with full kitchens and balcony dining areas. On site is a pool, although you can also swim at a small beach nearby.
St. John offers many villas, condos, or private homes for rent when the owners are away. Caribbean Villas and Resorts (tel. 800/338-0987; www.caribbeanvilla.com), has long serviced this market. Add to it another competing agency called Destination St. John (tel. 800/562-1901; www.destinationstjohn.com).
Where to Dine
More and more visitors are discovering Donkey Diner, Route 10, Coral Bay (tel. 340/693-5240), a small eatery on the main highway through Coral Bay. Locals will guide you here with the recommendation that the diner serves some of the best breakfasts on island, especially its blueberry pancakes. Of course, you can also order standard fare such as scrambled eggs, even scrambled tofu. You can drop in Wednesday to Sunday.
Beaches
Francis Bay Beach lies along North Shore Road, Route 20, about half a mile from the Annaberg junction. There's not much here in the way of facilities, except some picnic tables that have seen better days and a portable toilet. The beach is a good strip of white sand and ideal for swimming. Francis Bay Beach is also the best center for bird watching on the island. The Visitors' Center at Cruz Bay (tel. 340/776-6450), located near the Battery, is now offering Sunday morning bird-watching hikes. Go to the center and sign up if you'd like to participate.
Fun in the Surf & Sun
More and more outfitters are catering to those who like fishing, sailing, boating, and even horseback riding. To hook up with boat rentals, go to Connections, Cruz Bay (tel. 340/776-6922), which lies only a block from where the ferry from St. Thomas docks. The staff here will rent you a boat at various prices, ranging from affordable to luxurious. You can also make arrangements here for scuba-diving jaunts and fishing trips. On the waterfront at Cruz Bay, Ocean Runner (tel. 340/693-8809), rents one- or two-engine power boats with prices beginning at about $300 per day.
For 1½ hour guided horseback tours of the island, going along scenic routes, call Carolina Corral (tel. 340/693-5778). Rides begin at $65.
St. John After Dark
The local hotspot has become St. John's Beach Bar, at the end of Wharfside Village (tel. 340/777-4220), open daily from 11am to 1am, with live music -- usually a local group, at least two nights a week. You can join the fun-loving crowd, including the bikini-clad set, after only a short walk from the center of Cruz Bay. The bar is the venue for Sunday jazz in the afternoon, and watch for those raucous theme parties. The bartender's specialty is a painkiller, made with dark rum, orange juice, pineapple juice, and a "secret ingredient" (we suspect it is Coco Lopez).
St. Croix
Where to Stay
Many visitors to St. Croix are opting to stay at a private villa, apartment, or condo. These rentals go on the market when the owners are away -- most of them are vacation homes of their proprietors. New agencies are opening up to cater to this ever-growing demand -- Vacation St. Croix (tel. 340/778-0361), or Rent a Villa (tel. 800/533-6863).
Where to Dine
There are very few new restaurants in St. Croix. However, Off the Wall, Route 80, Cane Bay Road (tel. 340/778-4771), is finding increasing popularity, especially with divers testing their luck at the Cane Bay Wall on the north shore. The menu is rather simple -- steak sandwiches, quesadillas, and burgers -- but the place has also become a popular nighttime rendezvous, presenting jazz musicians and others Tuesday to Saturday 6 to 9pm.
Fun in the Surf & Sun
Outfitters come and go every season. Currently, Teroro Charters (tel. 340/773-3161) offers half- or full-day sails on its trimaran, Teroro II, departing from Green Cay Marina. Ask your hotel to pack your lunch for the day (most of them will). Big Beard's Adventure Tours (tel. 340/773-4482) has joined the competition, offering trips over to the famous Buck Island. Departures are from the Christiansted harborfront on one of two catamarans, the Flyer or else the Renegade. Take your snorkeling gear. A highlight of the trip is a barbecue lunch on a secluded beach.
Anchor Dive Center at the Salt River Marina, Route 801, Salt River (tel. 340/778-1522) takes its patrons to more than three dozen dive sites, including the fabled Salt River Canyon wall. A competitor, St. Croix Ultimate Bluewater Adventures, Queen Cross St., Christiansted (tel. 340/773-5944), takes divers to more than 75 sites around the island.
The best hikes on island are now being offered by Ay-Ay Eco Hike & Tours Association, Kingshill (tel. 340/772-4079), Ras Lumumba Corriette escorts hikers through the highlights of the rain forest and also to Mount Victory. The ruins of 18th-century sugar plantations are also included in these jaunts.
Shopping
Although it's hardly the shopping paradise St. Thomas is, St. Croix is increasingly becoming a shopping destination unto itself, especially among cruise-ship passengers. Maria Henle Studio, 55 Company St. in Christiansted (tel. 340/773-7376), displays her works at this studio, and her paintings are attracting serious art patrons. If you didn't bring enough tropical wardrobe, you can dress to your heart's content at Pacficotton, 1110 Strand St., Christiansted (tel. 340/773-2125). The sherbet colors resemble the cart of a Roman ice vendor -- lemon, lime, strawberry -- you name it.
The best selection of island-made spices and jams is sold at Island Webe, 210 Strand St., Frederiksted (tel. 340/772-2553). You can also pick up a number of gift items here, especially mocko jumbie dolls, the origins of which may date from slaves who once were shipped here from Africa.
Nelthropp and Low, 1102 Strand St., Christiansted (tel. 340/773-0365), has joined the merchants hawking gold jewelry as well as sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds -- all that good stuff. The outlet will even create jewelry based on your own creative designs.
St. Croix After Dark
At the edge of the rain forest, a thatch-roof shack is becoming a popular rendezvous, staying open daily from 8am to 7pm (drinking begins early on St. Croix). The Mt. Pellier Hut Domino Club (tel. 340/713-9052) has suddenly become famous for its four drinking pigs, Hurricane Roger, Grant, JR, and JJ. Patrons buy a nonalcoholic beer for one of the pigs and hand it to him. The pig will take the beer can and crush it with his teeth. Guests snap pictures as the pig guzzles the foamy broth. These pigs, in fact, are believed to be the heartiest drinkers on island.
Sunset Jazz, at the Waterfront (tel. 340/277-0692), has burst onto the scene as the place to be at 6pm on the third Friday of any month. Here both locals and visitors gather to watch the sun go down and listen to excellent jazz from the island's most talented musicians.
The British Virgin Islands
Tortola, whose capital is Road Town, is experiencing a lot of changes, whereas the second largest tourist island, Virgin Gorda, remains relatively sleepy.
Where to Stay in Tortola
Under new ownership, Frenchman's Cave Resort & Villas, West End (tel. 284/495-4844), has reopened to acclaim. With the reopening, a new restaurant, renamed Oscar's, also opened to good reviews with its Mediterranean cuisine that focuses on local ingredients, including fresh fish.
Fort Recovery Beachfront Villas, The Towers, West End (tel. 284/495-4354), has made many recent improvements, and is now better than ever. The eight bedrooms in the main house have been completely renovated, and the other 28 villas have been spruced up and made more inviting. All the villas open onto the beach and offer daily housekeeping services. Free wi-fi links have also been installed as have spa services. Fort Recovery was recently featured on Discovery's Travel Channel.
Where to Dine in Tortola
Serious foodies are discovering Eclipse, Penn's Landing Marina in the East End (tel. 284/495-1646), out by the airport. Chefs Andrew Dobbie and Lane McCaullum are luring more and more visitors to their seaside patio serving a creative international cuisine. Some of the most imaginative dishes on island are served here, including christophene (a Caribbean squash-like vegetable). The vegetable accompanies slices of duck breast rubbed with garam masala and smoked over Earl Grey tea leaves.
Quito's Gazebo at Cane Garden Bay (tel. 284/495-4837) has long been the place to dine on the beach. You get not only tasty Caribbean food, but Rymer's own music. Rymer is the BVI's best known recording star. Now many other places are getting in on the act, including Big Banana/Paradise Club, also at Cane Garden Bay (tel. 284/495-4606), a few sandy steps from Quito's.
Long a fixture at Cane Garden Bay for some time, Stanley's Welcome Bar (tel. 284/495-9224) seems to have been discovered anew. Opening at 10am daily, it serves all day and into the evening. The bartender here makes the best piña colada on island. Those who authenticate such things recently revealed that Stanley's is the place where Jimmy Buffett arrived 30 years ago and was inspired to write his legendary song "Cheeseburger in Paradise."
Near Stanley's is the small and laid-back Elm Beach Bar, Cane Garden Bay (no phone). Its weekend barbecues are now attracting the serious partiers. A final choice, Myett's Garden and Grille, Cane Garden Bay (tel. 284/495-9649), long known for its lobster and fresh fish, is also providing live entertainment and dancing under the stars on most nights.
Coco Plums Bar & Grill (tel. 284/495-4672) has moved to Apple Bay, serving its bistro-style cuisine with a West Indian twist. And, while shopping in Road Town, drop in at La Dolce Vita, Waterfront Drive (tel. 284/494-8770), for some 40 flavors of homemade Italian ice cream served in freshly made waffle cones.
Finally, the best place for sunset watching and cocktails has become the Bananakeet Café, Windy Hill, on the north shore at Heritage Inn (tel. 284/495-5842). After sundown, stick around to sample their nightly specials, such as a delectable tuna sushi roll, based on Caribbean fusion cuisine.
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