I'm sorry, you want me to touch what? As I watched my fellow travelers stroke swollen caterpillars (on their way to becoming beautiful butterflies), I realized two things: One, I am not a bug person. Two, I would never get the chance to do this (at least not in a jungle) back in Manhattan, so I better suck it up.
Experiencing new things was the focal point of my recent trip to Belize, from horseback riding and eating conch pizza to being wrapped into a human burrito and kayaking in the Caribbean Sea. When I mentioned to a friend that I was headed to Belize for a week, he looked at me and asked, "Where is that? Asia?" Until a few years ago, not many people in the United States knew where to find Belize on the map, but recently, everyone from former hip-hop hype man Flavor Flav (who shot the last episode of his VH1 reality series Flavor of Love in Placencia) to Mel Gibson (whose Apocalypto sheds light on the Maya culture deeply embedded in Belize's history) has brought attention to the small Central American country. Since 2000, the number of tourists visiting annually has increased by almost 45,000, with a large majority of the almost 240,000 visitors coming from the U.S., likely due to the fact that Belize is English-speaking, accepts the U.S. dollar (with the current exchange rate at US$2 to BZ$1), and is easily accessible from major airlines in Atlanta, Charlotte, Dallas, Houston, Miami and Los Angeles.
I wasn't quite sure what to expect when I boarded a much-too-early US Airways (tel. 800/622-1015; www.usairways.com) flight. Tales of insanely large bug bites (and bugs to go with them) and unsafe drinking water clouded my excitement, but when I arrived in Belize City, there were no clouds, and as I made my way to San Pedro over the bright blue waters of the Caribbean Sea, I knew that, bugs and all, I was going to love this place.
Beauty and the Beach
San Pedro, the main, and only, town on the Ambergris Caye, is just a 15-minute plane ride from Belize City. The small town boasts three unpaved roads (a lot, considering the entire country has only four stoplights), and most people get around on foot or via bikes, golf carts and old minivans. After unloading our bags at the Villas at Banyan Bay (www.banyanbay.com), our group of seven ladies hopped on a Miami Vice-like boat in the pitch black and sped off for an inaugural dinner at the Rojo Lounge at Azul (www.azulbelize.com), a two-villa resort about a 15-minute boat ride from San Pedro. Though we couldn't see much of what was in front of us, twinkling lights from restaurants, resorts and clubs along the shore mirrored the billions of stars in the night sky.
We arrived at Azul's dock and were greeted by Jeff Spiegel who, along with Vivian Yu, opened the resort in April of 2005. The two had come to Belize, like so many others, for the diving, and befriended a couple who sold them a small beach house (where the resort's infinity edge pool currently stands) on a handshake. The resort marries the modern chic of a Manhattan loft with the casual beauty of a simple beach bungalow, a look that was well thought out by both Spiegel and Yu, who spent a year designing the 3,000-sq-ft., air-conditioned villas, and chose everything from the flat screen televisions and Viking kitchen appliances to the local wood used to make the furniture and the Egyptian cotton sheets that grace the king-size beds. "We wanted to design the type of place that we would want to stay ourselves," Spiegel says. "That is the guiding force in most of the decisions we've made here -- simply doing things the way we would want them done if we were guests."
Spiegel and Yu have taken great care to create an exclusive and intimate resort, providing guests with everything from airport transfers to their own cell phone, and while back in San Pedro you'll likely find yourself sharing the beach with other tourists, there are never more than ten guests at Azul, and it's possible that you might be the only one enjoying the resort's 400 feet of private beach that day.
After a glass of champagne on one of the villas' rooftop lounges, our group headed to the Rojo Lounge for dinner, which we were surprised to learn would be prepared by Spiegel, who ran a successful independent record label, Fat Wreck Chords, in San Francisco, but has no culinary training. Spiegel modestly introduced the first of many dishes, which ranged from a ceviche (of conch, habañero, passion fruit and grouper) and roasted red pepper hummus with thick, doughy za'tar-spiced flat bread to smoked pork tostones and plantain-crusted shrimp. We moved on to conch pizza, lobster salad, and cashew-crusted lobster- and shrimp-stuffed grouper, and soon we, like the fish we had just consumed, were stuffed. However, dessert was on its way, and Spiegel, whom we had decided found his calling in the kitchen, placed plates of luscious carrot cake and heavenly homemade ice cream (bananas foster, mud pie) in front of us, which was the perfect way to end an already perfect evening.
The next day we were too full to be asked to do anything rigorous, so we spent our time at Mata Chica (www.matachica.com), a 14-villa resort next to Azul with an excellent restaurant, Mambo; a full-service spa, Jade; and a pool and beach-front Jacuzzi. The resort and its villas are colorfully decorated with items, from Morocco to Mexico, which the former owners, a makeup artist and photographer, picked up along their travels.
The day was all about relaxing, so I opted for a sea salt and sea clay body mask massage, which, I discovered, required that I be completely naked, with nothing but a tea towel preserving my modesty. Mary Louisa, my therapist, assured me that the treatment was comparable to a mini facelift, and that I would leave with skin as smooth as a baby's. She was right. The sea salt scrub exfoliated, while the mud, from the depths of Mexico, felt cool against my skin. I was then wrapped, like a tortilla, and left to "bake" for about 20 minutes. After showering, I touched my face, which was definitely soft, and headed back to the sun relaxed, glowing and, I'm pretty sure, toxin-less.
The Great Outdoors
Belize is known for its diversity, from its people to its geography (there are 49 known types of forest) so to get a true view of the country, we left the beach and headed to the jungle. We linked up with Philip from Yute Expeditions (www.cayoguide.com) in Belize City, and headed to the Cayo District, about 75 miles to the west. On the way we passed through seven different ecosystems, along the Western Highway, past Guanacaste National Park, and parallel to the Belize River. We arrived at Chaa Creek (www.chaacreek.com) about 2 hours later, the last 10 minutes a preview to the road conditions we'd deal with the remainder of our time here -- unpaved and extremely bumpy (which explained the high roof on our van).
I'd never been to a jungle before, so I prepared for barebones huts and mosquito nets. However, I was greeted by manicured grounds, paved walkways, brightly colored flowers, and luscious grass and trees. The bungalows, though outfitted with screen doors and windows, a soaring thatch roof, and a ceiling fan (there is no air conditioning here), were comparable to any other high-end resort, only the wake-up calls here are done in person, not on the phone (there are no phones, radios or TVs in the bungalows). Fresh flowers are tucked into towels and toilet paper, and a simple quilt covers the queen-size bed, while a large wooden wardrobe and pullout bed make it easy to accommodate more than two people.
That night, after a sunset canoe ride along the Macal River, we settled down for the evening meal at the resort's open-air restaurant, where the menu changes daily and draws inspiration from around the world. We broke freshly baked bread with owners Mick and Lucy Fleming, a friendly and fiery couple who opened the resort in 1981, four years after arriving in Belize as travelers. The two had built up the 370 acres of land as farmers, and now the 108-member staff (most of whom are locals) helps with everything from cooking and cleaning to building furniture in the resort's wood shop and taking guests out on nature tours. In addition to a medicine trail, stables, natural history museum, and butterfly conservation center (where you, too, can touch those furry caterpillars), the resort boasts a spa, run by the Flemings' daughter, Bryony, which offers everything from facials and massage to pedicures and cellulite treatments -- all from a location that overlooks the resort and the Mayan Mountains.
Outdoor attractions are the highlight at the resort due to its location in the jungle and its proximity to attractions such as the Maya ruins of Caracol and Barton Creek Cave. And while you could travel the area alone, it's recommended you take a guide, not only for the convenience, but for the background and history you'll get, since all guides are certified and go through continuing education.
The Maya people are still a large part of Belize's population, and a visit to the ruins at Caracol (The Snail) gives you an idea of just how large and important this civilization was and still is. The largest of the 36,000 structures is Caana (Sky Palace), which stretches to 140 feet high. As we turned the corner out of the forest, we were head-to-head with it, and after being silenced by its size, we threw off our gear and set out to attack it. The structure doesn't look as steep as it actually is, so after seeing a few other people take to the steps head on, a travel mate looked at me and said that was exactly what you didn't want to do when climbing a Maya ruin. She showed us her secret of walking horizontally and taking gradual steps up, and 15 minutes later, we were at the top, sweaty and proud, taking in the amazing view of the surrounding forest.
That feeling of accomplishment and awe followed us to Barton Creek Cave the next day, where we went spelunking in canoes. We paddled our way past stalagmites and stalactites, our bright lights causing the bats to screech and fly frantically above us. Philip pointed out artifacts and explained that the cave was a place the Maya connected to the Underworld. The trip out was faster than the trip in, but as we emerged from the darkness, sunlight peeked through the leaves at the mouth of the cave, and we all sat in silence, quieted by the beauty of the simple moment.
"Sitting on the Dock of the Bay"
I've never been a karaoke fan, but on our last evening in Belize, we found ourselves on a dock overlooking the ocean, mics in hand, singing along to the Otis Redding classic "Sitting on the Dock of the Bay." Though Redding wasn't singing about Placencia, one would have no reservations about "wasting time" here. There's a certain peacefulness here that I just didn't experience in San Pedro, despite the ongoing construction of resorts and summer houses along the dusty streets.
The Inn at Robert's Grove (www.robertsgrove.com), set at the end of the peninsula, is a likely case of couple comes to Belize, couple falls in love with Belize, and couple buys property and never leaves. The Rackmans (Robert and Risa) opened the property in 1997, and since then the resort has expanded to include three pools, 52 beachfront and beachview rooms, two restaurants (international and Mexican) and two private islands: Robert's Caye and Ranguana Caye. The islands are big draws for outdoor-loving guests, since both offer opportunities for seclusion and water activities, and one can spend an entire day snorkeling, kayaking and relaxing (as we did) on a tiny Gilligan's Island-like excursion.
The resort is a bumpy five-minute drive to both the airport and downtown, where small shops selling handmade wares and souvenirs are connected via a long sidewalk. Be sure to head to Tutti Frutti Gelateria, where flavors range from rum raisin and chocolate to peanut butter and vanilla, before hitting the shops.
On my last morning, I walked along the beach in the dawn, the purple sky giving way to sunshine and turquoise waters. I took out my camera to capture the moment, and knew that no matter how many times I looked at it after I returned home, there was no way I could recreate the feelings I had at that moment. I recalled something that Lucy at Chaa Creek had said about Belize, and felt that it couldn't be truer. "We speak your language and talk to your soul."
Note: This trip was sponsored by the Belize Tourism Board.
Planning
Getting There and Departing: Getting to Belize from the U.S. is easy, as many major airlines have direct or connecting flights including American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Continental (tel. 800/231.0856; www.continental.com), Delta (tel. 800/241-4141; www.delta.com), and US Airways. Flights from Belize City to other destinations within the country, such as San Pedro, are frequent and usually quick. Try Tropic Air (tel. 800/422-3435; www.tropicair.com).
Fees: There is a US$35 departure tax due at the airport upon departure, which must be paid in cash.
Tourist information: Contact the Belize Tourism Board, Lower Flat, New Horizon Investment Building, 3½ miles Northern Hwy., P.O. Box 325, Belize (tel. 501/223-1913, or toll-free 800/624-0686; www.travelbelize.org), or visit the Belize Fast Facts. When you're there, it will be helpful to have a copy of Frommer's Belize.
When to Go: While most of the world is experiencing harsh winter, Belize enjoys its best weather from November to late April. While this is the country's dry season in terms of weather, it's the busiest time for visitors, which means you should expect higher hotel rates during this time.