"It's the same, but different," some Canadians say when attempting to explain their country to American visitors. That's true, of course, but you can say the same about Alberta regarding the rest of Canada-it, too, is "the same, but different." For one thing, there's oil on them thar flat prairies, and that makes a big difference, especially when it comes to money. Alberta, home to the Stampede city of Calgary, has had surpluses for the past 11 years, totaling some C$30 billion (about US$26.5 billion), making it the first debt-free province in the country. They give it back to taxpayers at a rate such that each person gets C$400 (US$353) this year, the vast bulk of it going to debt retirement, infrastructure, health, education and medical research. Spending on health and education both has increased for the past 12 years, moreover.
Unlike most provinces, Alberta has not one, but two, big centers, each with around one million residents-Edmonton (the capital) and Calgary, where most of the big oil companies have their executive offices. Calgary is just an hour's drive from Banff, Canada's biggest tourist attraction, and heart of the Canadian Rockies, heaven for lovers of the outdoors, winter or summer. In addition to the fabulous Stampede held every July, Calgary is home to a world-class art museum (the Glenbow), the Royal Canadian Mounted Police site at Fort Calgary, the Telus World of Science, and a satisfying Zoo.
Highlights
For those who like panoramic views, head for Calgary Tower (tel. 403/266-7171; www.calgarytower.com; 101 9th Avenue SW) to get a broader picture of the Rockies and an overview of the city. Admission C$12.95 (US$11.40), less for seniors, children, etc.
Heritage Park (tel. 403/268-8500; www.heritagepark.ca; 1900 Heritage Drive SW) open since 1964, is Canada's largest living historical village. On 66 acres of parkland, you can see over 150 historical exhibits, daily interpretive activities, special events and more. Included are a steam train, a horse drawn wagon, costumed townspeople, the works. There are three towns inside, dating from the 1860s to c. 1880 and c. 1910. A free pancake breakfast comes with your ticket from 9 to 10. Admission C$13.95 (US$12.25), less for seniors, children, etc.
Centennial Square (renamed Rope Square for duration of the Stampede each July) has a skating rink in winter, throughout the year you can see the statue of Canada's "Famous 5," women who won the right for all women to be deemed "persons" in law back in 1929. You can sit in the adjacent huge rocking chair, itself a part of the statuary group. On the opposite side of the square, you might notice a "Busk Stop" sign at one spot, where there are many street performers.
Culture
Calgary culture is not an oxymoron, as one skeptic charged. You can attend off-Broadway shows (such as Phantom of the Opera in July 2006), for instance, at the Jubilee Auditorium (tel. 403/297-8000; www.jubileeauditorium.com/southern). More theater (and the Calgary Philharmonic) can also be found at the Epcor Center for Performing Arts (www.epcorcentre.org) on Centennial Square, corner of 1st Street and Stephens.
For the fine arts, be sure to check out Glenbow Museum (tel. 403/268-4100; www.glenbow.org; 130 9th Avenue SW), home to great collections of aboriginal art, arts of the western settlement, and Canada's largest military collection, as well as significant galleries devoted to Asian and West African art. Admission C$12 (US$10.60), less for students, youths, seniors, family.
Lodging
If you like a suite hotel, with big rooms and a good location, consider the 5 Calgary Downtown Suites Hotel (tel. 877/451-5551 or 403/451-5551; www.5calgary.com; 618 5th Ave SW) with suites going for C$109 (US$96) and up (1 or 2 persons), specials often just C$89 (US$78.50), including continental breakfast. Eminently comfortable, if a trifle old fashioned in décor, with a restaurant and bar downstairs and a parking garage on the lower floors. The restaurant has a fun menu, describing its soup de jour as "Not worth the price, but people keep asking for it" at C$9 (US$8), its bison with whiskey & green pepper cream sauce at C$21 (US$18.50).
Right across the street from Ranchman's (see below) is another establishment owned by the same people called the Carriage House (tel. 800/661-9566 or 403/253-1101; www.carriagehouse.net; e-mail:reserve@carriagehouse.net; 9030 Macleod Trail South) They have a package that includes a room, ten percent off a hat in their General Store, and free admission for two to Ranchman's, not available during Stampede. Good until December 30, 2006, cost C$115 (US$101), single or double.There are 165 rooms.
Dining Out
For micro beers, consider local Pale Ale from Alley Kat or Black Pilsner from the Brew Brothers. Try local specialties, such as musk ox, bison, venison, cowberries (like cranberries) and Saskatoon berries (like "blueberries on steroids," one Albertan advised).
The Vintage Chophouse (tel. 403/262-7262; www.vintagechophouse.com; 322 11th Ave SW), a charming establishment, offers dishes such as roast Alberta rack of lamb with a potato pancake, which goes for C$35.95 (US$31.70), butternut squash ravioli for just C$15.95 (US$14).
In our splendid Frommers's Guide to Canada, Bill McRae describes Ranchman's (tel. 403/253-1100; www.ranchmans.com; 9615 Macleod Trail South) as "Calgary's best country dance bar," and that is most assuredly so. The management likes the phrase "Canada's greatest honky tonk," however, and that may be true, too. All I can say is bring your dancing shoes or boots (maybe ear plugs), and have fun. But don't expect gourmet food (they advertise "pub grub," and my hamburger at $6.95 or US$6.14 was fine). Perhaps eat elsewhere, drink up here. Lots of cowboy memorabilia, a mechanical bull, big sports TV screens, seating for over 2,000. Part of Brokeback Mountain (where boy meets girl) was filmed here. On Sunday evenings, anyone can get up and sing with the band. Live entertainment Thursdays through Saturdays.
Shopping
If you need a cowboy hat for the Stampede festivities or otherwise, check out Smithbilt Hats, (tel. 403/244-9131; www.smithbilthats.com; 1235 10th Avenue SW). Saying they are Alberta's only boot makers, the Alberta Boot Company (tel. 403/263-4605; www.albertaboot.com; 614 10th Avenue SW) may fit your feet just fine.
Visitors to Canada are entitled to a tax refund in many instances. Check out the details at www.canadiantaxrefund.com.
The Stampede
The Calgary Stampede has been going since 1912, is world famous and worth all the hype. It's not called "The Greatest Outdoors Show on Earth" for nothing. In addition to the parade, at Stampede Park you find the world's biggest rodeo, exciting chuck wagon races, a casino, a midway, a stock show (where it all began in 1886), the city's largest food court and more, for ten days every July(next one, July 6 to 15, 2007).
These sports are dangerous, a fact attested to by the clinic underneath the stands as the bronco-busting and bull-riding continued outside and several riders were treated for sprains and bruises inside. (The start of the opening night show was delayed by an accident during the chuck wagon racing the previous day.) Rodeo prizes in 2006 totaled C$1.6 million (US$1.4 million), the biggest individual prize being C$100,000 (US$88,229). Admission to the Rodeo (afternoon or evening show) ranges from C$26 to C$75 (about US$23 to US$66), and the evening rodeo price includes admission to the stage show following.
The Chuck Wagon Races are spectacular, though a postmortem dimmed my admiration a tad when a driver told me the 65-pound stove of earlier days had been replaced by a barrel weighing only four pounds today. Similarly, I learned that riding the broncos used to go on as much as ten minutes, that is, whenever the horse stopped bucking, but is now limited to eight seconds. And nowadays, sponsors are everywhere, an announcer telling us that the rodeo alone had attracted $1.2 million (US$1.06 million) in advertising. On the chuck wagons, you can see as many as four logos (Boeing, Merck, GE, Boeing Partners, etc.)
If you go to the Stampede's evening stage show, a really big and razzle-dazzle performance, try to avoid the first part of opening night, when, in 2006 anyhow, there were 40 minutes of speeches before the 90-minute performance started.
At the Stampede Parade through Downtown Calgary on Opening Day, about 750 horses in different shapes and sizes passed my stand in 2006, including the famous Clydesdales from the Budweiser Company. (There were ten of them in the barn later, with one Dalmatian dog and one mascot donkey, named Nicholas.) I spotted several riders on their cell phones. My favorites were the many ethnic groups (Thai, Sikh, etc.), two big army tanks, and the 15 sanitation trucks that swept up the horse droppings every so often. Honorable mention should go to the Member of Canada's Parliament who rode horseback while sporting a pair of large, fake, rotten teeth.
Eating breakfast is easy during the Stampede. If your hotel breakfast is not part of the price, look for free pancake breakfasts all over town, with celebrities occasionally serving up the grub (both Canada's prime minister and Alberta's premier were among those pouring mix on griddle and handing cakes over on my visit). There are different locations daily, so check with your hotel front desk or consult the Stampede Planner, available everywhere at no cost. You may have to go back for seconds, as I got only one thin pancake, with half a strip of bacon, at one location, two pancakes, with no bacon, at another. And coffee, juice or anything else cost from about C$1 up (about US 88 cents).
Contacts
More on the Calgary Stampede at www.calgarystampede.com, or phone for tickets to 800/661-1767. Note that hotels in Calgary are often booked a year in advance for Stampede time, so plan ahead!
Information on Calgary itself can be found at www.tourismcalgary.com or by phone at 800/661-1678.
Information on the province of Alberta: www.travelalberta.com.
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