In the kinder, gentler country that is Portugal, it's hard to find an area more typical than Central Portugal.One region therein is called the Rota da Luz (Route of Light); another is the fabled university city of Coimbra and its environs. The air here is laden with sea mist many mornings, burning off by late morning, adding freshness to the days. These are conditions suitable for good grape growing, as people in places like California and parts of France know well. The entire area is lush with greenery and redolent of odors from sea marshes, flower-banked gardens and tall pines. Keep your eye peeled for the lovely, blue-flower bearing jacaranda tree, too.
Highlights of Coimbra
In Coimbra, pay close attention to the famous University itself, crowning the hill in the center of the city. I suggest you take the funicular from the Market to near the top, and walk down, taking in the sights of the old institution (founded in 1290 in Lisbon, moved here in 1537). Your main target is the University Patio, entered through an imposing Iron Gate. Diagonally opposite the gate is the Biblioteca Joanina, built in 1717-1728. It is one of the most spectacular Baroque libraries in Europe; its three rooms lined with magnificent bookcases (of Brazilian wood), decorated with Chinese motifs in gold on green, red and black backgrounds. Above the last room is a portrait of the library's founder, Joao V.
The Capela de S. Miguel, next door, was built by Prince Pedro between 1425-1450.The building is awesome, from its leather-padded pews to its vaulted ceiling, but especially the sumptuous tiles, the unusual high altar (note the "steps to paradise" pyramid), and the marvelous Baroque organ (1733). The Tower (1728) is a symbol of the university, keeping official time and presiding over courtyard concerts and opera in summer.
The building was inhabited by all the kings of Portugal between the 12th and 15th centuries, and is the oldest royal residence in the country. Before that, it was a fortress built c. 994 by the Moorish conqueror Almancor.When the king wanted the university (originally in Lisbon) moved here, it was simply put in the palace. Now often black-gowned students overrun the hilltop from October through June. (Graduating men and women have a tradition of de-clothing after they finish their exams and draping their clothes on the statues in front of the Medical Building, to the right of the Iron Gate.) More on the university: (tel. 351/239-859-800; e-mail: rpuc@gemini.ci.uc.pt; Paco das Escola, 3049 Coimbra Codex).
Walking down the hill, take the narrow and steep cobble-stoned street known as Quebra Coasta (the backbreaker), with at least a couple of hundred steps past shops and small restaurants. Not far down is the Old Cathedral (1162), its Gothic Cloister Portugal's oldest. Some sculptures date from the 12th century, but much of the art here is from the 16th.At the bottom of the hill is the Almedina Arch, probably the best preserved part of the ancient city walls.
A tragic love affair took place here in the 14th century, between Prince Pedro and Ines de Castro. (In a nutshell: Pedro's father, the king, had Ines murdered, but when Pedro became king, he had the murderers murdered.)For me, the most memorable spot in Coimbra was the old Monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha, where the ill-fated Ines lived and where she received the prince's love letters, now an excavation site bringing a church once submerged by river and mud to light as an imposing ruin. Built in 1286-1288, the church was intended to be a monastery for nuns (a convent), and it enjoyed some good fortune (after a rough start) until around 1616, when rising waters form the nearby river flooded the lower reaches, causing the nuns to built a "second" church above the first.By 1677, they had to leave for good, starting a new monastery up the hill. In 1995, archeologists began to pump out water and bring the submerged church to light, a process still under way, and fascinating to see. Landscaping is underway now, a museum will be built by 2008, they say.Occasional concerts, including opera on July 24, 2206, are open to the public. I asked a the curator if they had yet played Debussy's Engulfed Cathedral, which he composed based on an old legend from Brittany about the cathedral of Ys, and she said, "Not yet, but they will."Contact Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Velha at tel. 352/239-801-160; https://sta-clara-a-velha.ccg.pt; e-mail: mosteiro.scvelha@ippar.pt; Rua das Parreiras, Santa Clara, 3040-266.
About a 30-minute drive from Coimbra are Portugal's most impressive Roman ruins (2nd century BCE), at Conimbriga. Highlights include the House of the Fountains, remains of the Forum, ditto the Aqueduct. More information: tel. 352/239-941-177; www.conimbriga.pt; e-mail: info@conimbriga.pt).
The Route of Light
Aveiro, on the coast, is the center of what they call the Rota da Luz (Route of Light), along which are many local places of interest, including Art Nouveau buildings, modern architecture and historical sites, for each of which the Rota da Luz Visitors Bureau has brochures, in English.
The Museum of Aveiro (tel. 351/234-423-297; www.ipmuseus.pt; e-mail: maveiro@ipmuseus.pt; Avenida de Santa Joana, 3810-329 Aveiro) is housed in a former convent, dating back to 1458. The last nun died in 1874, after which the building housed a girl's college, but since 1911, it has been a museum. The church itself is part of the museum, and worth a look, especially for its High Choir and the baroque tomb of Saint Joana. Some of the paintings and statuary date back to the 15th century. Closed Mondays.
Two other churches of note in Aveiro have remarkable 17th-century tiles: The Church of the Misericordia and the Church of Vera Cruz. If you have time, drive through the University of Aveiro, its campus remarkable as a collection of interesting new buildings erected since 1972 and adjacent salt flats, with pyramids of the stuff drying in the sun. The main shopping boulevard of town, Avenida Dr. Lourenco Peixinho, leads to two rail stations, one old, one new, and their juxtaposition a quick lesson in the evolvement of Portuguese design. The city offers free use of bicycles, located at strategic points, so let the tourist office or your hotel tell you how the system works.
You can take a one-hour boat ride from the landing in front of the Moliceiro Hotel, using a local motorized boat called yes, a moliceiro, with two off duty fishermen in charge. Cost €7 (about $9), half price for kids 5 to 12. You'll need a minimum of four adults to go out. Note the designs on the mostly-blue boats, depicting religious scenes at the front, slightly naughty designs at the back. At the intersection of two canals just in front of Aveiro's fish market is an elegant circular footbridge, opened in May 2006, which looks like a loop, and from here, you can take good photos of two or three canals and fishermen's houses.
Wine Route
One of the finest wineries on the Bairrada Wine route is Sao Domingos, in business since 1937, its main lodge in Ferreiros. You can sample varieties such as Bairrada, Dao, Beiras and some sparkling wines as well as spirits. A very impressive cellar and tasting room. Contact info: Caves do Solar de Sao Domingos (tel. 351/231-519-680; www.cavesaodomingos.com; e-mail: info@cavesaodomingos.com; Ferreiros, Andadia).
Another winery of note is Caves Alianca, a Barraida establishment in Sangalhos, producing since 1927. They also make wines from Beiras, Dao, Douro and Alentejo, and use oak barrels from France, Russia and the USA.In addition to wines, they produce old brandies and say their spirits cellar, with about 3600 barrels, is the country's biggest, something I cannot confirm. Their locations: tel.351/234-732-000; www.caves-alianca.pt; e-mail: luciana.sardo@caves-alianca.pt; 3782 Sangalhos Codex.
There's also a Bairrada Wine Museum in the area, where you can sample some of the area's products, or browse in the gift shop. Contact Museu do Vinho Bairrada: tel. 351/231-519-780; www.museudovinhobairrada.com.pt; e-mail: museuvinhobairrada@mail.telepac.pt; Avenida Eng. Tavares da Silva, 3780-203 Anadia.
Lodging
In Coimbra, you must stay at the four-star Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas (tel. 351/239-802-380; www.quintadaslagrimas.pt; e-mail:geral@quintadaslagrimas.pt; R. Antonio Augusto Goncalves, Santa Clara Apartado 5053, 3041-901 Coimbra). famous in Portuguese literature and history for the story of Pedro and Ines that took place here, A faceless modern statue of a shattered Ines, her hands amputated, greets you in the lobby. The present palace was built by Miguel de Castro in the 19th century, replacing one a hundred years older that was destroyed by fire. It has been a hotel since 1995. Facilities include a pitch & putt golf course, driving range, a sweet garden (with two trees planted by the Duke of Wellington), a spa with fitness room, indoor pool, and more. The president of Portugal had lunch here during my stay, and I can vouch for the restaurant's excellence, too. A room for two begins at E165 (about $211).
A three-star hotel in Coimbra, the Astoria (tel. 351/239-853-020; www.almeidahotels.com; e-mail: Astoria@almeidahotels.com; Avenida Emilio Navarra 21) is owned by the same people who own the 5-star Bussaco Palace Hotel in Bussaco. It's downtown, near the river. Room for two from E80 (about $102).
The brand new wing (May 2006) of the Hotel Moliceiro (tel. 351/234-377-400; www.hotelmoliceiro.com; e-mail: hotelmoliceiro@hotelmoliceiro.com; R. Barbosa Magalhaes 15-17, 3800 - 154 Aveiro) a three-star establishment (waiting for confirmation of its fourth star) in the heart of Aveiro, is a good place to base your exploration of the region. At this charming and elegant spot, you are directly opposite the boat landing and in the city center as well. Swanky double rooms start from €95 (about $122). Excellent restaurant, too, and a small business center, and a total of 49 rooms in old and new wings. Tea and a biscuit are delivered to your room around 6 PM.
Completely new (late 2005) in Aveiro is the four-star Melia Ria (tel. 351/234-401-009; www.solmelia.com; e-mail: melia.ria@solmeliaportugal.com; Cais da Fonte Nova, Lote 5, 3810-200 Aveiro), a modernist nightmare on the outside, but plush and comfortable inside, its fans insist. Next door to the arts center housed in a former ceramics factory. 128 rooms, restaurant, fitness center, indoor pool, etc. Double room from €60 (about $77).
Dining Out
Local specialties include eels, codfish and mussels, served alone, in soup or with rice, all delicious. Otherwise, consider roasted kid, savory sausages or suckling pig. Local breads are wonderful, as, of course, are the regional wines, including vinho verde from north of here. There are dozens of pastries and cakes, but I prefer the sponge cake called pao de lo from Ovar.
If you want elegance, consider the Michelin-starred Arcadas da Capela Restaurant in the Hotel Quinta das Lagrimas in Coimbra, where you can order a la carte or try a set dinner, as I did, in this case one entitled "Pedro & Ines". There are seven courses, if you count the fish dumpling amuse-bouche to begin with and the petit fours at the end. The procession included fish soup, ginger flavored shrimp and salad, stewed oxtail (in tall cake form), a "dessert aperitif" of strawberry cream and pepper, and your choice of Ines' dessert (strawberry with black olives) or Pedro's dessert (rosemary créme brule with coffee ice cream). The cost? €48 plus €20 for five wines (about $87 total). But a regular menu starts from €48 (about $61), main courses from €30 (about $38).
On the outskirts of Coimbra is O Porquinho (tel. 351/239-494-036; www.oporquinho.com; e-mail: geral@oporquinho.com; Quinta da Ribeira 1, Soelhas, 3000-125 Coimbra) restaurant, bright and airy, and surprisingly elegant despite the look of a take-out window that dominates the parking lot side. Carefully attentive service makes a meal memorable, with fish of any description likely to be as delicious as mine was. Average entrée about €18 (about $23).
Not too far from Aveiro, get a gorgeous view of the water at the Clube de Vela da Costa Nova (tel. 351/234-360-250; e-mail: info@cvcn.pt; Av. Jose Estevao, Praia da Costa Nova, 3830-453 Gafanha da Encarnacao) out on the beach and directly overlooking a marina. They offer excellent fish dishes, such as clams and shrimp in garlic sauce, monkfish casserole with rice, and a side order of fried calamari, with olives and tuna pate. Three courses like this, without wine €34 (about $44). I would suggest a marvelous red wine for a change, the Barraida Campolargo, made with syrah, merlot and local grapes. It's a 15-minute drive from downtown Aveiro (there's a bus, too) or an exhilarating 45-minute boat ride through the marshes and channels forming the estuary of the Aveiro River.
Directly above the fish market in Aveiro is the Mercado do Peixe Restaurant (tel. 351/234-383-511; e-mail: chiado_restaurants@mail.telepac.pt; Largo da Praca do Peixe, 3800-243 Aveiro), serving, what else, mostly fish, of course, in a relaxed minimalist décor, all glass and steel, affording great views of the neighborhood and canals. I can recommend their mussel soup, grilled mackerel and mixed grilled fish (grouper, calamari, etc.). Average entrée €20 (about $25).
Nightlife
Coimbra is the center of fado in Central Portugal, and here it is sung by men, following the tradition of student minstrels who serenaded their ladies whenever they could, wearing their university black capes and somber expressions. The best place to hear fado is the Bar A Capella, a tiny chapel on the slopes of the university's hill, where the owners sing sad songs, usually in the form of a trio, one vocalist and two fellows on the guitars. The night I attended, everything was miked, so I suggest ear plugs for everyone. But the music was divine in spite of the microphones and speakers. Cover charge €5 (about $6.40). Starts 9:30, ends 3 A.M. Bar A Capella, (tel. 351/917-056-060; www.acapella.com.pt; e-mail: mail@acapella.com.pt; Rua Corpo de Deus, Capela Nossa Senhora da Vitoria, 3000 Coimbra).
Contacts
For more information on Central Portugal, contact ARPT Centro de Portugal at www.visitcentrodeportugal.com.pt, e-mail: info@visitcentrodeportugal.pt. You can also contact the Rota da Luz Visitors Bureau at tel. 351/234-420-760; e-mail: averio.rrotadaluz@inovanet.pt; Rua Joao Mendonca 8, 3800-200 Aveiro.
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