The area from the Languedoc-Roussillon region in western France to the string of Riviera towns in eastern France is the most dynamic part of the country. It is also the most fashionable, and trends change rapidly. Here is a preview of some of the major changes occurring in this sunny region.
Arles
This fabled old city used to be visited for its history and attractions, not its cuisine. But lately there has been considerable improvement in the fare, notably at Brasserie Nord-Pinus, place du Forum (tel. 04-90-93-44-44), which is today one of the lightest and most sophisticated in town, employing top-notch chefs to prepare dishes based on the best of seasonal shopping. The menu of French and Provençal specialties changes frequently based on best market conditions. More and more discerning palates are discovering La Gueule du Loup, 39 rue des Arènes (tel. 04-90-96-96-69), which also serves a hearty yet refined French and Provençal cuisine. The owners, the Allard family, take their food preparation seriously, and most diners are delighted with the results.
Bonnieux
In this romantic hill town in the heart of Petit Luberon stands Le Clos du Buis, rue Victor Hugo (tel. 04-90-75-88-48; le-clos-du-buis@wanadoo.fr), in a restored stone-fronted Mediterranean villa from the 1700s. Though small, it's one of the most popular and affordable hotels in the area for those seeking its personalized charm. To cool you off, there's a pool.
Cannes
This resort, famed for its film festival, continues to open one hipster enclave after another. One of the latest is Le Bâoli, boulevard de la Croisette (tel. 04-93-43-03-43), which has quickly earned a reputation for its artful French and Japanese cuisine. Dishes range from Gaul to Toyko, as evoked by such plates as lobster in citrus sauce or tappanyaki recipes prepared tableside. More media attention has focused on La Tantra/Le Loft, 13 rue du Dr. Monod (tel. 04-93-39-40-39), now that it has introduced its new fusion menu of delectable French and Asian dishes in its Tao-inspired dining room. Expect lots of sushi, tempura, and even Kobe steak.
The hippest of the hip is the amusingly named Le Harem, 15 rue des Frères Pradignac (tel. 04-93-39-62-70), serving a Mediterranean cuisine that is mainly "new Moroccan." Cinema stars frequent this chic enclave of fashion and good food. It's on the see-and-be-seen circuit but also delivers with its refined flavors and its slow-cooked tagines and other delights from North Africa.
Eze
This former fortified feudal center along the coast is today the setting for Chateau Eza, Moyene Corniche (tel. 04-93-41-12-24; www.chateaueza.com), the former private Riviera estate where the royal family of Sweden once vacationed. It's a real pocket of posh and still fit for royalty, with its elegant rooms spread across a series of buildings that date from the Middle Ages.
Marseille
There were predictions that Chez Fonfon, 140 rue du Vallon des Auffes (tel. 04-91-52-14-38), would fall off after its legendary founder died in the late 1990s. But his great-nephew, Alexandre Pinna, took over and really came into his own in 2003. Pinna is a virtual media darling celebrated for his finely tuned French and Provençal cuisine that, if anything, seems better under new chefs than it was in its heyday when the likes of John Wayne showed up.
Monaco
Alain Ducasse, hailed by some critics as the world's greatest chef, strikes again in the heart of Monaco with the opening of Bar et Boeuf, avenue Princess Grace (tel. 92-16-60-60). This is Ducasse's take on a surf-and-turf restaurant, where the only fish served is sea bass and the beef is among the most desirable cuts in the land. Giving Ducasse some serious competition is the newly opened Baccarat, 4 bd. des Moullins (tel. 93-50-66-92), one of Monaco's most elegant and upscale restaurants, specializing in refined Italian cuisine, and doing so exceedingly well. Come here for Monaco's most enticing and succulent pastas, among other dishes.
St-Paul-Le-Vence
This sleepy hill town over Nice has long been known for its swanky accommodations. Overnights have gotten even better with the opening of some small inns de charme, as the French say. Hôtel Les Vergers de Saint-Paul, 940 Route de la Colle (tel. 04-93-32-94-24; www.filfranck.com), is just as modern as the town is ancient, but is a small citadel of taste, luxury, and comfort, with a pool included. An even more charming rival is Villa St. Maxime, 390 Route de la Colle (tel. 04-93-32-76-00; www.villa-st-maxime.com), an extraordinary boutique hotel and a rare find that combines modern luxuries with antiquity. In beautifully landscaped grounds, the hotel is a nugget, with an Olympic-size pool.
St. Remy-De-Provence
Because of impressive media coverage, more discerning palates were pleased at L'Assiette de Marie, 1 rue Jaume Roux (tel. 04-90-92-32-14), with its French and Provençal cuisine. Even Princess Caroline of Monaco has been a frequent visitor. Marie-Ricco, the Corsican-Italian owner, handles her sudden popularity with style and grace, still sticking to menu items such as her goat cheese and homemade pastas that put her in the culinary map in the first place. Deliberately downgraded from a restaurant, Charmeroy Maison de Gouts, 51 rue Carnot (tel. 04-32-60-01-23), has transformed itself into one of the most sought after tearooms of Provence. Charming and intimate, it is known for its mouth-watering pastries and "divine" teas. Madame Charmeroy, the owner, even named one of her best pastries after former resident Nostradamus and based it on a 16th-century recipe.
St-Tropez
In the chic resort of St-Tropez, a man hailed as the world's greatest chef, Alain Ducasse, has opened Spoon Byblos, avenue Paul-Signac (tel. 04-94-56-68-00), in the resort's swankiest hotel. Using produce mainly from the Mediterranean, Ducasse has inspired a French/international menu that has excited even the jaded palates of this fabled holiday center. Some of the recipes come from Morocco; others are from Andalusia or wherever. You never know with Ducasse.
