June 25, 2004 -- When folks in the Pacific Northwest, particularly in the Seattle-Tacoma area, want to escape for a weekend, they think often of Whidbey Island, just a short drive away (less than two hours). Whidbey says it gets half as much rain as Seattle, and its verdant hills and dropdead-blue waters are among the most photogenic for miles around. The locals even claim they are in a "banana belt" climate. For laid-back visitors who appreciate the arts, it's also a paradise. This may be in large part due to the females of Whidbey.
Whidbey has a stronger-than-usual presence of women active in community affairs, dating back, one resident told me, to the 1970s and 1980s when more than 150 women and their families moved here "and started a matriarchy." About 80 percent of the downtown businesses in Langley are owned and operated by women, the director of the Langley South Whidbey Chamber of Commerce, Loretta Martin, said. The area reflects strong female leadership through its beauty and charm.
Whidbey is about 50 miles long and can be accessed at any of three points--by bridge from the mainland at Deception Pass; by ferry from the mainland out of Mukilteo to Clinton; and by ferry from the Olympic Peninsula's Port Townsend to Keystone. The first contact between Native Americans here and Europeans came in 1792 when Captain Joseph Whidbey put into what is now Penn Cove on the HMS Discovery under the command of Captain Vancouver.
Highlights
Generally, the farther south you go on the island, the more natural the landscape, as the northern end is dominated by the Whidbey Naval Air Station and is where the bridge connects island to mainland.
Several towns are attractions in themselves, such as Langley, a charming village with plenty of art galleries, antique shops, a winery, a movie theater, a performing arts theater, and several excellent restaurants. Coupeville, often called "the town of sea captains," is surrounded by (and inside the boundaries of) Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve (www.nps.gov/ebla/), 25 square miles of preserved forest, prairie, farmland, bluffs, beaches, park and hiking trails. The reserve is a great place to observe wildlife (shorebirds and waterfowl, bald eagle, black-tailed deer, etc.). Ebey's Landing is a new kind of national park, the nation's first historical reserve, created by Congress in 1978 "to protect a rural community which provides an unbroken historic record from...19th century exploration and settlement...to the present time."Many of Coupeville's buildings remain as they were 100 years ago as a result, with over 100 buildings in the National Register of Historic Places.
Fort Casey State Park boasts a very impressive brick fortress, with several gun batteries, mortars and the like, as well as an imposing Admiralty Head lighthouse (1903). More information at www.parks.wa.gov or by phoning 360/678-4519.
The Earth Sanctuary is a non-profit organization that wants to keep the land pristine, offering visitors two miles of trails through and past "tranquil forests and reflective ponds." In their restoration project, they planted over 6200 native plants of 71 species. They have recreated some ancient megalithic monuments, including stone circles (such as a miniature Stonehenge) and the first dolmen to be built in the US in modern times, as well as an outdoor labyrinth. $7 donation requested. For more information, phone 425/637-8777 or visit www.earthsanctuary.org.
Events
On the first weekend in March, Coupeville celebrates the Penn Cove Mussel Festival, with a chowder competition, cooking demonstrations, scavenger hunts, live music and other fun activities. Penn Cove Shellfish Company here is the oldest and largest commercial shellfish farm in the USA, based on water whose average temperature year round is 52 degrees. More details at www.centralwhidbeychamber.com or phone 360/678-5434.
Also in March is the Whidbey Island Writers Conference, with workshops and seminars featuring at least a dozen authors. Contacts: www.writeonwhidbey.org or phone 360/331-6714.
April and May are the peak months for rhododendron blossoms, which can be seen at the Meerkerk Gardens, ten acres of flowers and displays surrounded by 43 acres of woodlands preserve. On Mother's Day, there's a harp concert and later in the month of May, a rhodie sale and flower show. Every Thursday in May and June you can become a Grateful Deadheader, work three hours, share a brown bag lunch and get a free tie-dyed tee shirt! Contact them at www.meerkerkgardens.org or by phoning 360/678-1912, email meerkerk@whidbey.net.
Oak Harbor, near the Naval Air Station, has an "Old Fashioned 4th of July & Fireworks Extravaganza" each year, with a parade and more. Contacts:www.enjoyoakharbor.com or by phoning 360/675-3555.
August sees the Coupeville Arts & Crafts Festival for two days, with dozens of participants. More information at www.centralwhidbeychamber.com or at 360/678-5434.
Most of the year, the Whidbey Island Center for the Arts has events going, from theaterto auctions and carnival. They've sponsored in the past, for instance, an International Gypsy Jazz Festival, the Mud Bay Jugglers, the Portland Taiko Ensemble, and Steve Martin's "Picasso at the Lapin Agile." More information at www.wicaonline.com or phone 360/221-8268.
Outdoor Activities
You can kayak in the sea with the Whidbey Island Kayaking Company, departing at five locations depending on tide and weather. They supply kayaks, paddles and life jackets, but you bring waterproof shoes, sunglasses, sunscreen, windbreaker and drinking water. April through October, phone 360/321-4683, www.whidbeyislandkayaking.com.
Lodging
The Country Cottage of Langley is a popular spot, located on a bluff overlooking the village, Puget Sound and the Cascade Mountains to the east. Each of the six cottages has a theme (e.g. Cabernet, The Creamery) and includes water view, private entrance, bath, deck, TV/VCR, fridge and coffee maker. The three largest each have a two-person whirlpool, fireplace, and furnished deck surrounded by kiwi and passion vines. Rates from $129 to $179 per cottage per night, a sumptuous breakfast included. Contact the friendly owners at 800/713-3860 or 360/221-8709, website www.acountrycottage.com.
The Saratoga Inn is also in Langley, with 15 charming rooms, and a wrap around porch overlooking Saratoga Passage and eastward to the Cascades. Every room has a fireplace and oversized shower, and the price includes a full breakfast every morning, as well as afternoon wine and hors d'oeuvres. You can also use their bicycles free of charge. Rates from $115 to $205, Carriage House $200 to $280. Contact them at 800/698-2910 or 360/221-5801, website www.foursisters.com.
Dining Out
The Caf?angley serves mostly Greek and Mediterranean dishes, but complements the mousakka ($8.95 at lunch) and spanakopeta ($7.50) with Dungeness crab cakes ($8.95) and local Penn Cove mussels ($8.95), for instance, all nicely done. 113 First Street, Langley, phone 360/221-3090.
Shopping
"What a Girl Wants" is the name of one shop (gifts, clothing, accessories) in Langley, setting the tone for most of the main street there. You'll find several good boutiques and other kinds of shopping in each of the island's major towns, including the European Uncommon Market and The Stray Dog Company in Coupeville, Wild Birds Unlimited in Clinton, and Llynya's in Freeland.
Most of Langley's galleries (about ten of them) are on First Street or intersecting Anthes Avenue, with an Artists' Cooperative, a glass studio, jewelry and antiques among the finds.
If you're into wine, visit Whidbey Island Vineyard & Winery, open daily in summer (except Tuesdays) and from Wednesday to Sunday in winter, from noon to 5. Near Langley, contact them at www.whidbeyislandwinery.com, phone 360/221-2040.