Not too long ago,Nashville's tourism gurus began to notice that their visitors were notreturning, instead slipping away to Branson for a newer variety of countrymusic experiences. While the town fathers had been relying on the Grand OleOpry for years to keep the people coming in, the place was becoming more likeJohnny One Note, and the tune wasn't as appealing to baby boomers as it hadbeen to their parents and grandparents. Getting the message, they startedjazzing up the place.
Among other things, theyadded 1,000 hotel rooms in the past six years, and encouraged the growth of alively music industry. And it's thriving, with festivals, honky-tonk rows ofsaloons and all kinds of music-related museums. (Now, however, one Arkansascompany, the Gaylord group, owns many of the tourist attractions aroundtown--including Grand Ole Opry, Opryland, Wildhorse Saloon, General Jacksonshowboat, WSM Radio, the Ryman Auditorium, etc.--so the taxpayers are prayingfor its good financial health.)
Highlights
If you like to take GrayLine tours, you have about a dozen to choose from here, and just listingthem gives a good idea of much of what Nashville has to offer:
Homes of the (country music) StarsGrand Legends (Opryland and Music Valley)
Country Music Hall of Fame & City Tour
Historic Tennessee (Civil War mansions)
Jack Daniel's Country (the distillery)
General Jackson Dinner Cruise (a showboat)
Nashville Nights (Second Avenue and Broadway bars and saloons)
Shopping Shuttle (to Opry Mills, mostly)
Ryman Auditorium Showcase (where the Grand Ole Opry used to be viewed).
Prices range from $21 and up($10 for the Shopping Shuttle). Call Gray Line at 883-5555 or view theirWeb site, www.graylinenashville.com.
You should go for at leastone performance to the Grand Ole Opry, which typically starts at 7:30(Saturdays from 6:30) and goes on until 10 PM (Saturdays til midnight), withdifferent stars every night. The Opry claims to be the world's longest-runninglive radio show, broadcasting since 1925. Tickets are regularly $15 to $20 andhard to get, so reserve well in advance. But there are packages, such as "ANight at the Opry," where you get a ticket to the Opry and one night's lodgingat the Opryland Resort beginning at $89.50, per person, plus tax, based ondouble occupancy--not a particularly grand bargain, however. Phone them at 871-OPRYfor details or go to www.grandoleopry.com.The box office itself is 889-6611.
You can't ignore thebrooding presence of the Bell South Tower, whose crest looms like agigantic Batman mask over the city, but it isn't the only architectural "statement"around. Those range from the often phony pretensions of antebellum mansions(e.g., fake façades) to the Frist Center, a spiffy new art locale, andinclude the fabulous Cumberland Sciences Museum, the latter well worth avisit, especially if you have kids in tow.
The Country Music Hall ofFame & Museum is fairly new (May 2001), and is already a Mecca forC&W fans. Admission is $14.95 for adults, $7.95 for children 6-15, under 6free. Two-day tickets are somewhat less than double the one-day price. Opendaily 10 to 6, to later on Thursdays in summer. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmasand New Year's days. There are many multi-media stations throughout the museumin addition to stationery exhibits. Three films will entertain you, and fromtime to time, live performances and demonstrations take place. I especiallyenjoyed especially the Songwriters' Theater, during which professionaltunesmiths present their new material and offer stories and insight into thesongwriting process. In the Demonstration Gallery, you can learn how to dance,even. 222 Fifth Avenue South, phone 800/852-6437 or 615/416-2001, Website www.countrymusichalloffame.com.
One of Nashville's mostremarkable great houses is the Belmont Mansion, home to thethrice-married Adelicia Hayes, who was a rich woman before, during and afterthe Civil War. Designed in the fstyle of an Italian villa, Belmont is set inelaborate gardens with numerous outbuildings. By the time she was finished workingon the place, the 1853 mansion contained 36 rooms, and the estate in totalboasted a bowling alley, bear house, zoo, art gallery and a 200-foot-longgreenhouse and conservatory. To keep her fortune during the war, she traveledas a widow to Louisiana and single-handedly "negotiated" the illegal sale ofher cotton to England, netting $960,000 in gold (worth millions in today'sterms). The mansion is now part of Belmont University, and is open daily insummer, daily except Sun. and Mon. the rest of the year. Admission $7 adults,$3 children 6-12. 1900 Belmont Boulevard, phone 460-5459, www.belmontmansion.com.
Calling itself "The Queen ofTennessee Plantations" is Belle Meade, where the female docents in periodcostume wear hand covers for modesty, not to keep warm. Looking a bit like AndyJackson's Hermitage (brick covered with a granite slate, the ugly facade beingadded later), Belle Meade was built in 1853. There was a small skirmish betweenopposing sides in the Civil War here, but the place is best known for its finehorses. Enjoy the 14-foot ceilings for an admission charge of $10 adults, lessfor AAA members and seniors, $4 for children 6-12, $3 under 6. 5025 HardingRoad, phone 800/270-3881 or 615/356-0501, Web site www.bellemeadeplantation.com.
At Travellers Rest, headquarters of the Army of Tennessee in December 1864, the owner's wifeboasted that "seven Confederate generals sat at my table one evening,"neglecting to add that they were discussing how to carry out their unsuccessfulattempt to take back Nashville (they retreated five days later) in what becameknown as "the last campaign of the Civil War in the West." It's a Federal-stylehome dating from 1799. Located at 636 Farrell Parkway, phone 832-8197, www.travellersrestplantation.org.? Admission $8 adults, seniors and youth less,under 6 free.
Andrew Jackson's home, TheHermitage, boasts a false façade as well, added to make the home lookgrander, but you can still see his log cabin out back where he and his wifelived from 1804-1821. He is buried, here, too, not far from an African-Americanservant. Admission $8 adults, $7 seniors, $4 children 6 to 18, under 6 free.Location: Old Hickory Boulevard, phone 889-2941, Web site www.thehermitage.com.? Open daily except Thanksgiving, Christmasand third week of January.
Nashville's Parthenonis "better" than the original in Athens in one respect--it hasn't been blastedby Turkish artillery. Built in 1897, its fine little art gallery specializes inexhibits such as the recent retrospective of Willie Betty Newman. Born in 1863,she earned her livelihood as an artist throughout her adult life, living andexhibiting in Europe, eventually dying in 1935. The beautiful show I saw wasthe first exhibition of her work since her death! Opening this weekend is anexhibition of Brooklyn-based Richard Law's photographs documenting the homemadefliers that went up practically overnight all over Manhattan immediatelyfollowing the attacks on the World Trade Center?painful, but important work.Permanent exhibits include paintings by William Merritt Chase, Winslow Homer,and Elihu Vedder and casts of the famed Elgin Marbles from the British Museum.The recreation of the original Athena Parthenos sculpture inside took 7 years,from 1982 to 1990, and stands 42 feet tall, making her the largest piece ofindoor sculpture in the western world, they say. Don't be surprised if you seepeople painting and gilding the statue starting this summer as they continuetheir work on making it look like the original. Centennial Park, phone 862-8431,Web site www.parthenon.org. ClosedMondays, also closed Sundays in winter. Admission $3.50, children and seniorsless.
The Tennessee StateMuseum is a splendid institution, including its Military Museum branchacross the street. Find them at Fifth & Deaderick Streets, phone 741-2692or 800/407-4324, Web site www.tnmuseum.org.
Lovers of either African ormodern art should get out to Fisk University, where two of their artcollections cover these subjects. The Alfred Stieglitz Collection containsbijoux works by 29 prominent artists, including Picasso, Cezanne, Renoir,Toulouse-Lautrec and more. Art from the Sudan to southern Africa, includingmasks, sculpture and many utilitarian objects are the centerpieces of theAfrican Collection. 1000 Seventeenth Avenue North, phone 329-9720, Website www.fisk.edu/-gallery/arthome.html.
If you're looking fortraveling exhibitions from famous museums around the world (the Smithsonian,etc.), try the brand new Frist, at 919 Broadway, downtown. Phone244-3340, Web site www.fristcenter.org.Current exhibitions include a collection of Faberge eggs, paintings from India,photography and more.
Lodging
A good, moderately pricedplace to stay is the Courtyard by Marriott, 1901 West End Avenue, phone327-9900 or 800/245-1959, fax 327-8127, Web site www.marriott.com.? You're close to Music Row without spending too much, and therooms and bathrooms are adequately sized. About 140 rooms on 7 floors. Pricesrange from $95 to $140 double.
Among the least expensive,yet decent, places to stay is the Best Western Music Row/Downtown, whererooms go from $69 a night ($49 for a single) up to $89.A five-story, modernbuilding, the Best Western offers free "Jumpstart" breakfasts, non-smokingrooms, in-room coffee, ironing boards, hairdryers and safes, as well as a25-inch TV, free cable and HBO. Find them at the intersection of I-40 (Exit209B), I 65 and I 24 on Music Row, behind Shoney's Inn. The address: 1407Division Street, the phone 615/242-1631.
Dining Out
Everywhere you go, you'llfind barbecued pull pork, potato salad, baked beans, house salad and a dessertsuch as cake or pudding.
Locals swear by the LovelessCafe for southern specialties, from fried chicken (dinner $10.95) tocountry ham sandwiches at lunchtime ($4.15). But, best of all, many say, isbreakfast, served with juice, homemade preserves, hot biscuits, honey andsorghum. The all-time favorite is Country Ham & Eggs, with red-eye gravy($10.95). The plain omelet with all the fixins is $5.45. Dinners, by the way,are served with salad, choice of one side dish, bowl of gravy, homemade preservesand hot biscuit. Grits is a fine example of a side dish. 8400 Highway 100,phone 800/889-2432 or 615/646-0067, Web site www.lovelesscafe.com.
At Jack's Bar B Que,downtown, you eat off paper plates with plastic tableware, but the food, whileonly middlin', is authentic and the ambience can't be beat. Your choice isusually Tennessee pork shoulder, Texas beef brisket, St. Louis style ribs,smoked turkey, sausage or chicken. Plus beans that tasted canned to me. 416Broadway, phone 615/254-5715. Look for the neon sign with the flying pink pig!Prices for the barbecue come as sandwiches, as a jumbo serving, as a plate, orby the pound. Pork shoulders, for instance, cost $2.99 as a sandwich, $3.79 fora jumbo portion and $7.06 for a plateful. All plates are served with yourchoice of two vegetables (including cole slaw, baked beans, potato salad, etc.)and (white) bread.
At Demo's Steak & Spaghetti House, also downtown (300 Commerce Street), spaghetti runs as lowas $5.99 (with marinara sauce), sandwiches $5.79 (hamburger) and fajita stylesteak just $8.99. They're all good, and the luncheon special of the day(varies) is only $3.95. Phone them at 256-4655.
More innovative cuisine canbe found at the cutting-edge Bound'ry, where pizzas start at $8.50,Tennessee trout from $17 and chops/steaks from $18.50, though most main coursesare in the $20 to $29 range. Locate them at 911 20th Avenue South, phone 321-3043.
You can dine at the famous WildhorseSaloon from 11 AM to 10 PM, but from then until 2 AM, it's party time,including line dancing, with live music most nights. Owned by the Gaylordpeople of Opryland. Barbecue at the table, boots on your feet (or is it theother way around?). 120 Second Avenue North, phone 256-WILD.
From 11 AM to 1:30 PM onweekdays, there is a free Downtown Lunchline, offering a loop busservice around downtown every 7 minutes, and passing by 150 dining experiences,they say.
Summing Up
Nashville is a gooddestination for a short road trip from such metropolitan areas as Memphis,Knoxville (both on I-40) or Chattanooga (I-24). For the latest information onInterstate construction, phone the hotline at 800/858-6349, withinNashville or vicinity 741-2015. You can also access the Tennessee Department ofTransportation Web pages at www.state.tn.us/transportor phone them at 741-2331.
The area code for theNashville numbers above is 615, unless otherwise noted.
For more information on thecity and area, contact the Nashville Convention and Visitors Bureau at 259-4730,Web site www.nashvillecvb.com. When in town, stop by their Visitor Centerat the Gaylord Entertainment Center, where you can purchase, for instance, aPick 3 ticket, giving you a $41 value for just $24.99 plus tax. You can thenhave one adult or child admission to any 3 of 10 participating attractions.They include the Belle Meade Plantation, Country Music Hall of Fame, Frist Center,The Hermitage, Music Valley Museums (3 of them), Opryland Hotel flatboats,Regal IMAX Theater, Ryman Auditorium and the Wildhorse Saloon, among others.