October 27, 2003 -- There's cause for celebration right here in this river city, as a monolithic project nears completion featuring a resort, riverwalk, convention center, casino, an outdoor amphitheater, five aquariums and a museum -- all capturing the life in, on and around the mighty Mississip'.
Part of a $188 million dollar project, America's River at the Port of Dubuque opened its first phase last December, with phase II (the aquariums and museum) opened in June, and phase III (the Riverwalk and convention center) scheduled for completion by next month.
Keystone of the riverside complex is the National Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium, which features five divisions including a bayou swamp, complete with alligators, as well as hands-on exhibits including a pilothouse simulation, a wet lab, and more (www.rivermuseum.com). The museum is an affiliate of The Smithsonian, the only river museum in the country to be so honored.
Next in interest for visitors is the Riverwalk, part of a 44-mile trail connecting America's River to the Field of Dreams in Dyersville (yes, it's where they shot the eponymous film) and site of a large plaza that serves as a landing berth for the Delta Queen riverboats and other large excursion vessels (www.cityofdubuque.org). The Spirit of Dubuque, Iowa's only authentic paddle wheeler, is open from May through October each year for river excursions (www.spiritofdubuque.com). Next door you'll find the landlocked Diamond Jo Casino (which looks like a paddleboat, but isn't), with over 700 slot machines (www.diamondjo.com).
As for places to stay, I like the William M. Black Boat & Breakfast, listed on the National Historic Register. It's a working dredge boat and now part of the National Mississippi River Museum. Guests sleep in the crew's quarters, dine in the galley and see what life was like digging up tons of mud and muck to make the channels safe for navigation. When it's ready to receive overnight guests ("soon," they say), the charge will be about $70 per room per night, including continental breakfast.
There are another 22 B&Bs in the city, details of which can be had at the Iowa Welcome Center, 300 Main Street, phone 800/798-8844 or Dubuque Visitors Bureau, same address, phone 563/557-9200 (www.dubuquechamber.com).
If you like something more luxurious, try the Grand Harbor Resort, with 194 rooms, overlooking the river. Double rooms go for around $99 to $129. It's adjacent to the large indoor waterpark with tube rides, a tree house, waterslides, spouts, shoots, squirts, cannons, and more. Admission is free for resort guests.