Nestled like a rare gem in an alpine meadow atop the Bald Mountain ridge of the Purcell range, the Purcell Mountain Lodge is a getaway in the truest sense of the word. I recently took an excursion through Alberta and British Columbia for a blissful stay at this one-of-a-kind destination resort.
From Calgary to Golden
After rising at 5am for a day in the air (and on the ground) of sick passengers, unplanned refueling, missed connections, mad sprints through airport terminals, and multiple security scrutinizations -- in other words, a typical flight itinerary -- I touched down in Calgary, Alberta, which was awash with cowboys (yes, cowboys) in full swing for the Calgary Stampede (www.calgarystampede.com), "the Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth," with musical performances, rodeo events, chuck-wagon racing, and even blacksmithing and sheep-shearing competitions.
A three-hour drive along the rushing, putty-blue Bow River saw me to the tiny town of Golden, British Columbia, but not without a crucial stop in the town of Banff in, naturally, Banff National Park (www.pc.gc.ca/banff) at the Magpie & Stump Restaurant & Cantina (203 Caribou St; 403/762-4067) for some local brew and Tex-Mex favorites, including many vegetarian options -- I recommend the cheese and veggie enchiladas -- in addition to the south- and north-of-the-border staples. A delicious peanut butter cookie from Evelyn's Coffee Bar (201 Banff Avenue; 403/762-0352) fueled the remainder of my trip to the tastefully rustic 'eh' Canadian Lodge (2476 Golden Donald Upper Road, Golden V0A 1H1; tel. 866/693-3341; www.ehcanadianlodge.com; doubles C$100-C$150/US$86-US$129; suite C$108-C$135/US$93-US$116) in the Blaeberry Valley personally run by hosts Denise and Loren Doroshuk.
Each of the five guest rooms (one is handicap accessible) is comfortably appointed with pine wood furnishings and brushed pine ceilings. Wake up to gorgeous mountain views and a full homemade breakfast, taken family style around a big table: I enjoyed pancakes, Canadian bacon, yogurt, fresh-picked huckleberries, organic OJ, and fresh coffee while watching the innkeepers' two gray horses graze in a kelly green field full of white wildflowers. Look for personal touches and handmade furnishings at the lodge, like tables the couple made themselves or the subtle sculptural elements on the balcony with leaf shapes pressed into concrete to add a touch of the crafty to the overall design scheme. Comfortable, unpretentious, and full of warmth, a night at the eh Canadian is like sleeping in a friend's fine mountain lodge.
Just 15 km (9 miles) west of Golden on 300 acres, 'eh' Canadian is a great jumping off point for area activities, and Denise and Loren can hook you up with seasonal activities such as sleigh rides in winter and horseback riding in summer. The Columbia wetlands, a UNESCO world heritage site that is home to elk, moose, bighorn sheep, deer, shorebirds, raptors, and waterfowl, are accessible from the lodge. This source of the Columbia River, which eventually flows through Portland, Oregon and empties into the Pacific, is popular with naturalists, birders and sightseers alike.
Where the Buffalo Roam
After my delicious homemade breakfast with Denise and Loren, I made tracks for Rocky Mountain Buffalo Ranch (www.rockymountainbuffaloranch.com) an 80-acre family-run farm that, also in the Blaeberry Valley, serves up free-range buffalo meat to local restaurants (including the kitchen at Purcell Mountain Lodge) and neighbors alike. The property includes a small visitor center, Buffalero's Bunkhouse, that also functions as a gift shop (be sure to pick up a few bags of their tasty homemade buffalo jerky or some "smokies" -- local parlance for sausages) and museum, with a 10-foot buffalo skin on the wall and replicas of native artifacts made of buffalo bone and skin, such as drums, tools, knives and rattles.
The 35-minute family-friendly tour of the facility allows you to explore inside a traditional tipi and get up close and personal with the 41 buffalo, who might live to be up to fifty years old. Well, as up close as you want to get to the likes of Chester, the lone sexually-mature male, a bull sire with a personality that rivals his sheer bulk (a powerful 2,400 pounds). Owners Leo and Karen Downey are knowledgeable not only about theirs herd and sustainable ranching but also about the history and culture of the Columbia River's headlands, which the farm inhabits. The buffalo are surprisingly endearing, especially if there are babies on board -- which there are in the spring after the mothers' 9-month gestation; you might want to bring an extra roll of film or a back-up memory card for this one. Tours run May 20-September 17, on Saturdays and Sundays (10:30am-6:30pm; Admission C$10/US$8.60; ages 5-17 C$5/US$4.30; 4 and under free) or by appointment on weekdays. Be sure to look up as you are walking back to the parking lot for a glimpse of Red Chief Mountain -- in the crags of the rock face at the top, you will see the face of an old Indian chieftain who appears to be lying down, eyes skyward. Ranch co-owner Leo is a musician, and his happily moody lyrics, matched to the pensive strumming of his guitar, fit the mood of the spectacular landscape as you leave the ranch, bound for the small town of Golden (www.goldenbritishcolumbia.com and www.kootenayrockies.com).
Helicopter to Purcell
Golden is where guests go to catch the 15-minute helicopter flight to the Purcell Mountain Lodge. Canadian Helicopters (400 Fisher Road; tel. 250/344-5311; www.canadianhelicopters.com) runs flights from their hangar to the lodge on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Be sure to get there as early as possible since flights depart on a first-come first-served basis. If you do get stuck hanging out at the Canadian Helicopters hangar, you can check your email one last time before leaving "civilization." -- Purcell is blissfully telephone and computer free.
Canadian Helicopters has a strict luggage limit of 25 pounds per person (30 lbs in winter, excluding skis): don't cheat it -- there is a weigh-in of both you and your luggage before the flight that will tell all, and dress code is casual, so you don't need to pack a massive bag. The jaw-dropping views from the heli are dizzying as you soar above the pristine Purcell Mountains to the lodge that is perched 7,000-feet high atop Bald Mountain in BC's largest alpine meadow. First timers all crane their necks from the helicopter for the initial glimpse of the lodge's blue roof as they anticipate the experiences the coming days will hold. With certain similarities to the first day of camp, new guests are cheerfully ushered around the house to settle into their rooms upon arrival.
Purcell Mountain Lodge
With just 10 rooms, the Purcell Mountain Lodge (P.O Box 1829, Golden, BC V0A 1H0; tel. 250/344-2639; www.purcellmountainlodge.com) never feels overfull, preserving the peaceful feel of the locale, in which you will likely not ever see another outsider (although it is technically possible for avid hikers to pass through the region from Golden and the surrounding mountains). Each of the cozy bedrooms are simply and comfortably furnished with beds, sink, and chair, but the robes, big fluffy comforters, and extra pillows lend another non-fussy layer of luxury. The private chalet offers a more secluded way of experiencing the lodge while having a comfortable two-story space in which to withdraw. Views from all of the rooms at the lodge are magnificent in all directions.
The lodge wasn't always the minimalist upscale retreat that it is today. In the early 1980s, guests who came to experience the area's backcountry skiing with Russ Younger and Paul Leeson, the current lodge owners, overnighted in Mongolian yurts in a meadow near where the lodge now stands. Paying homage to its eco upbringing, the lodge, which was built in 1989, emphasizes strict conservation of resources: helis don't fly without full loads, both out and back; a complex hydroelectric system is responsible for generating all the power the lodge needs to be self-sufficient; brown water is recycled, while waste-water is disposed of very carefully; lights in the shared bath and shower rooms are on timers to prevent waste; and biodegradable soap, shampoo, and conditioner are provided to all guests. Trails were created throughout the surrounding landscape to ensure that the local vegetation is protected -- imperative when the growing season is only two months out of every year.
My time at the lodge was a lot about repetition -- not in a bad way, but in the way that allows you to completely lose yourself to living in the moment, while each experience transitions smoothly into the next. Days are dictated by a series of questions, beautiful in their simplicity: what's the chef preparing for breakfast? what shall I take from the post-breakfast buffet for my pack lunch today? which hike shall I go on? shall I just lounge the day away at the lodge instead, watching the hummingbirds and bees go about their business? will I read my book first and then have a treatment from the onsite masseuse to work out the kinks from yesterdays hike/a hard day's travel? What will the chef whip up for the amazing, family-style dinner later that evening? This is the way events flow and days lay out, in a soothing rhythmic progression.
Hiking & the Outdoors
Naturally, the daily hikes into the surrounding meadows, valleys, and mountains are the star attractions here in summer. Each day, two hikes -- usually one a little more challenging (say, a ridge hike along a rugged shale-covered mountain peak that may experience light snowfall, even in mid-July) than the other (perhaps a more staid meander along the various trails, idly admiring the western anemone and pink and red Indian paintbrushes in the rolling meadows) -- were offered to guests by the guides, who gauged the weather as well as guests' ability level, motivation, and desire to see specific "attractions" -- such as Bus Stop, Ptarmigan Ridge, Twin Ladies, Bella Vista, Kneegrinder Trail, and the neighboring snowcapped peaks and hanging glaciers, just to namedrop a few.
Purcell's guides are extremely well-informed naturalists who are serious about their work (and the environment in which they conduct it) as well as about guests' safety, but they're also not above a post-lunch nap or goof-off session in the middle of a meadow basked in sunshine. Walking and hiking around the lodge can be anything from exhilirating to tranquil, and -- though it didn't happen on my trip -- I imagine it is quite awe-inspiring and a little terrifying to encounter one of the areas infamous grizzly bears.
Dining
After a day in hiking boots and gear, nothing felt better than coming home in the late afternoon to hot soup and fresh bread (late-afternoon appetizers, or "appies" as chef Kate called them), hot showers, and a hot, peaceful sauna, which I usually had all to myself. Purcell toes the line between outdoorsy adventure and comfortable luxury, but I guarantee that when you are eating a bowlful of delicious, steaming-hot leek soup while lounging on the wraparound sofa with perfectly sore muscles, fresh from the toasty sauna you'll feel very well taken care of. Trail mix and snacks are available in the all-day buffet for those midnight munchies, and there's a cash bar that's available on the honor system. The complimentary self-service bar serving tea and coffee (organic and fair trade) is also always on. Breakfast is officially served at 8:30 when guests assemble downstairs to partake of spreads that might include freshly baked muffins, homemade granola, fruit salads, Canadian bacon or ham, and eggs made to order. Gourmet dinners feature meals of the chef's whim, such as halibut and ahi with lime sauce, served with grilled asparagus and a bulgur, quinoa, wild grain rice mix, plus homemade bread and cherry pie. One meal of wild salmon baked in a filo puff-pastry dough was evidence of the lodge's buy-fresh-and-local policy. Breakfast and dinner are both family-style affairs, with guests passing platters and bowls back and forth amid pleasant chatter about hometown happenings or hiking experiences. By the end of the trip, I'd even learned some Canadian of somewhat questionable taste: "Get 'er done, eh!" -- a slang expression meaning something along the lines of "Let's go."
Getting There & Getting Around
For travel within North America, Air Canada (tel. 888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com) has the most flights between the U.S. and Canada. Calgary International Airport (www.calgaryairport.com) lies 16km (10 miles) northeast of the city. The airport is served by Air Canada, Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com), American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), United (tel. 800/241-6522; www.united.com), Continental (tel. 800/525-0280; www.continental.com), and Northwest (tel. 800/447-4747; www.nwa.com), as well as several commuter lines.
Greyhound buses (tel. 800/661-8747 or 403/260-0877; www.greyhound.ca) link Calgary with most other points in Canada, including Banff and Edmonton, as well as towns in the United States. The depot is at 877 Greyhound Way SW, west of downtown near the corner of Ninth Avenue SW and 16th Street SW.
Car-rental firms include Avis (tel. 800/272-5871 in Canada, 800/230-4898 in the U.S.), Budget (tel. 800/268-8900 in Canada, 800/527-0700 in the U.S.), and Hertz (tel. 403/221-1681), each of whom has a bureau at the airport.
Note: This trip was sponsored by Tourism British Columbia, the Canadian Tourism Commission, the Golden Development and Economic Office, and Kootenay Rockies Tourism.
Purcell Mountain Lodge Practicalities
The summer season at Purcell Mountain Lodge runs from early July to mid-September, when temperatures are a blissful 10 to 20 degrees C/50-68 F (compared to the unbearable 90-100 degrees likely in the Mid-Atlantic U.S. during the same months); and the winters season is late December to mid-April (with chills of -4 to -15 C/0-25 F). Summer activities include walking and hiking, birding, wildlife viewing, and nature study. In winter, guests enjoy skiing, snowshoeing, snowboarding and tobogganing. Photography, massage, dining and drinking, and general relaxation are year-round favorite pastimes.
With packages from C$1,080 (US$930) for 3 nights, Purcell Mountain Lodge is the perfect retreat for families, friends, couples, honeymooners, business parties, or just about anyone looking to get away from it all and get together in a peaceful social environment -- in terms of the ambience, think ultra-fancy hostel with first-class amenities. Note, however, that guests under 14 are not permitted, unless part of a group that is booking the entire facility; special group rates are available. Look for renovations to the Purcell lodge sometime in 2007.
Shared rooms (C$1,080-C$2,690/US$930-US$2,315) feature one queen and three single beds. Private double rooms (C$1,220-C$3,180/US$1,050-US$2,737) have one queen bed, and a single bunk can be added. Singles (C$1,460-C$4,020/US$1,257-US$3,460) are available for guests who would like their own room. The private chalet (C$1,480-C$4,090/US$1,274-US$3,520 double occupancy) has a king-sized bed, private bathroom, and a living room. Packages are available for 2-, 3-, 4-, and 7-night stays; package prices vary with season and length of stay. All prices inlcude accommodation, helicopter transfer from Golden, all meals, and professional guide services. Tips for staff and the 6% Canadian tax (3% per non-Canadian residents) are not included.
Information for Visitors to Canada
In Golden, contact the Golden Visitor Info Centre, 500 10th Ave. N., Golden, BC, V0A 1H0 (tel. 800/622-4653 or 250/344-7125; www.goldenchamber.bc.ca). The Calgary Convention and Visitors Bureau, 200, 238 11th Ave. SE, Calgary, AB, T2G 0X8, operates a useful, no-charge accommodations bureau (tel. 800/661-1678 or 403/263-8510; www.visitor.calgary.ab.ca) as well as the Visitor Service Centres at Tower Centre (Ninth Avenue SW and Centre Street) and at the airport; both provide free literature, maps, and information.
For more information on visiting Canada, contact Tourism British Columbia (12th Floor, 510 Burrard Street Vancouver, BC V6C 3A8; tel. 800/HELLO-BC or 604/660-3767; www.hellobc.com) and the Canadian Tourism Commission (4601 N. Fairfax Drive, Suite 1160 Arlington, VA 22203; tel. 703/875-3095; www.canada.travel.com).
Further Reading
For more information on Golden, Calgary, and other attractions in the area, grab a copy of Frommer's British Columbia and the Canadian Rockies.
Note All prices quoted in this article are Canadian dollars.
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