Just a short distance from San Francisco's Embarcadero waterfront, Alcatraz is the nation's most popular prison. Popular, of course, with visitors who want to see the place -- not with former inmates and other criminals. It was a federal prison for just 30 years (1934-63), but housed some of the country's most notorious criminals, Al Capone and "Machine Gun" Kelly among them. Before being a prison, the island was the site of the first U.S. fort on the west coast (1850) and also the first lighthouse (1854). Moreover, it was the birthplace of the American Indian Red Power movement in 1964 and again from 1969 to 1971.The island is now a part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, as it has been since 1972.
Highlights
In the prison facility itself, the cells are most intriguing, especially if you get a demonstration of their doors closing. I recommend the audio tour of the cell bloc, too.
Outside the prison walls, look for nesting seabirds, such as the Western Gull. Also making their home on the island are cormorants, pigeon guillemots, snowy egrets, and black-crowned night herons. Birdwatchers should look out for the Gull Shack. Check out the gardens and flowers, also, as well as the tide pools and marvelous bay views, including that of San Francisco itself.
Activities
There are no formal daytime tours of the island, everything there being part of your own self-guided visit. Once on the island, you can stay as long as you wish, with a ferry departing every 30 minutes. The park authorities say it takes about two or three hours to fully visit the island.
If you take an evening ferry (usually Thursdays through Mondays), there is a guided tour when you arrive, including cell door demonstrations.
This year is the 40th anniversary of the occupation of the island by American Indians, helping to establish tribal rights of self determination by that action. An award-winning video exhibit, We Hold the Rock, shows daily on the island in an exhibit area near the dock.
Very popular with visitors in the summer is a combined visit to Alcatraz and to Angel Island, deeper into the bay, where many locals go to get away from the urban stress of cities around the bay.
Ranger Programs
Throughout the day, rangers present various programs on such topics as escapes, military history, the American Indian occupation and natural history. Otherwise, there are no scheduled events on the island for this summer, according to their website. If you are with kids, ask a ranger for the Junior Ranger booklet, which will tell them how to become a real Junior Ranger.
New for 2009
The Museum Collections at the Rock can be seen only on the web. It includes objects made by infamous inmates, historic photos and documents, escape materials and inmate artwork. Also there are items used by officers, including correctional materials when Alcatraz was a federal penitentiary (1934-1963), as well as materials from the military prison period (1859-1934) and the American Indian occupation of 1969-1971. Go to the virtual museum via the official Alcatraz website, www.nps.gov/alca.
On September 26, 2009, you can experience what is was like on the island during the Civil War, with period music, cooking demonstrations, artillery demonstrations and special military tours during the Civil War Living History Day there. Book through the Alcatraz Cruises website noted below.
Getting There
The only way to get here is to book a seat on one of the ships of the Alcatraz Cruises Company (tel. 415/981-7625; www.alcatrazcruises.com). The adult price is $26, including ferry trip, audio and video presentations. Reserve tickets ahead as reports indicate it is often booked up well in advance, especially in summer or around holidays. You can also buy advance tickets at their landing place in San Francisco, Pier 33 on the Embarcadero. Locals suggest you dress warmly, even in summer, perhaps in layers, as it is frequently cold and windy out on the island and during the boat trip. Also be prepared to climb a lot of steps.
Admission Fees
Included in your ferry price. You have to book through Alcatraz Cruises, noted above. The island is closed only on Christmas and New Year's Day.
Contacts
The official site of Alcatraz Island is www.nps.gov/alca, tel. 415/561-4900.
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