No one ever describes (tel. 418/632-5876; www.lemassif.com/en/) as "like" anyplace else. In fact, it is so unique that it occupies its own category. Its location, vertical, microclimate and layout set it apart.
Spectacularly located in one of the few inhabited World Biosphere Preserves on the planet, it is North America's only significant "upside down ski area." Some smaller areas sport traditional base facilities at the top, but Le Massif is the only sizable one to do so. The day lodge is known for excellent food and monumental art on display -- no surprise since it is the rare winter jewel in the diadem of eastern Canada's gastronomic and art region, an area awash with Gallic culture, cuisine and charm.
Le Massif's summit area and slopes overlook a wintry panorama that features the majestic St. Lawrence River, just at the junction of tidal saltwater and fresh water. The river here is so wide that it often looks like a sea. The water's appearance changes -- perhaps slate-gray, perhaps deep blue with white ice floes and a white rim of fringing the shore, perhaps glowing red or gold reflecting a spectacular sun. Somehow, it isn't surprising that a resort owned by Daniel Gauthier, a founding partner of the Cirque du Soleil, puts on such a great show.
But what of the skiing? Le Massif boasts eastern Canada's greatest vertical (2,526 feet), greatest average annual snowfall (about 240 inches a year) and steepest run (La Charlevoix, whose steepest pitch is a heart-stopping 64 percent grade). The run hosts high-caliber downhill and Super G races, as well as athletes at Canada's National Alpine Skiing Training Center. This is big-time stuff in the tight world of competitive skiing.
Forty-five runs have been developed thus far, plus an exemplary terrain park and two gladed runs cut for 2007-08. A few are for novice and low intermediate skiers and snowboarders, but three quarters require advanced skill. Ancienne, Anse, Combe, Gagné and Jean-Noël rank as Le Massif's easiest runs. Some believe that La Gagnon, middling steep by Le Massif standards, boasts the best views -- and that's saying a lot, considering how many spots and stretches offer scenery that won't quit.
Bump skiers head for La 42, a mean mother of a mogul slope that drops a relentless 2,000 vertical feet. Because of the challenging terrain and the complexity of runs that spread over two contiguous mountains (a third is slated for future development), complimentary guided tours are given continuously. The mountain is rough, and the weather can be too, but Le Massif is so compelling, so addictive, that people go the extra mile to reach it -- for the terrain, the cuisine, the views and the totally unique ambiance.
Where to Stay
Le Massif currently has no lodging, so many skiers stay in such picturesque towns as Petite-Rivière-Saint-François or Baie-Saint-Paul in the nearby Charlevoix area (tel. 888/777-9853; www.discovercharlevoix.com). A free shuttle service runs between Baie-Saint-Paul and the summit area on weekends and holidays. Quebec City, 45 miles away and accessible by auto, air and train, offers the opportunity to combine sophisticated urban nightlife with exemplary skiing -- all with a French accent. Plan your trip wisely and you won't have to drive, as bus service connects Quebec City (tel. 877/783-1608 or 418/641-6654; www.quebecregion.com/e/) and Le Massif during a good part of the winter.
Quebec City, the gorgeous capital of the Province of Quebec, appeals anytime, but in winter, it takes on a special, romantic glow -- more than ever, because 2008 is the city's 400th anniversary, and the celebrations are ongoing. The city's vibrant -- and sometimes raucous -- 54th annual Winter Carnival takes place February 1-17.
Le Massif -- in fact, the entire St. Lawrence River region all the way to Quebec City, blend the scenic attractions of mountain and seacoast. Le Massif's newest restaurant is called Mer & Monts, which means just that: "sea and mountains." It is a sit-down restaurant offering a culinary adventure and Le Massif's distinctive atmosphere.
Baie-Saint-Paul, founded in 1648, is getting a spectacular multi-function facility for dining, lodging and entertainment, and there will, hopefully, eventually be a riverside train all the way out from Quebec City. Even while those remain projects in progress, Le Massif is a great place for good skiers -- and, in fact, it is unique.
Le Massif Stats
Lifts: 3 high-speed quad chairlifts, 2 handle tows; uphill capacity, 8,700 riders per hour Trails: 45 (24% easier, 36% "difficult," 28% "very difficult," 12% "extremely difficult" -- Le Massif's wording, not ours)
Terrain Park: 1
Vertical: 2,526 feet
Skiable Acres: 320 (51% with snowmaking, 71% groomable)
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