Contrary to what you might think, dermatologists really do want you to go outside.
“It's great to be outdoors!” says Dr. Jennifer N. Choi, professor of dermatology at Northwestern University's Feinberg School of Medicine in Chicago. “We love people being outdoors. It's healthy for you, and we love people traveling.”
But just as the benefits of sun exposure are real, so are the risks. Skin cancer is the most common cancer in the United States, and unprotected exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light is responsible for 90% of visible changes to the skin, like wrinkles, fine lines, and pigmentation.
Sunscreen is effective in mitigating those risks, but in the consumer space, sunscreens occupy a confusing intersection between vital health tool and cosmetics. The most expensive products cost hundreds of dollars and others come with dubious claims.
So what should you buy? Here’s what three dermatologists had to say.
How do sunscreens work?
All sunscreens fall into one of two categories: chemical and mineral. Both are considered totally safe. Some products use a combination of chemical and mineral properties to provide the best of both worlds.
Chemical sunscreens work “like a sponge,” says Dr. Eileen Deignan, chief of dermatology at Emerson Health in the Boston area. When UV light from the sun hits the skin, the organic compound bonds in chemical sunscreens absorb that heat and then release it at a lower energy, so it doesn't have a chance to damage the skin.
Mineral sunscreens, on the other hand, work like a shield. Made primarily of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, those sunscreens sit on top of the skin and scatter harmful UV rays so they can’t be absorbed.
Which is better: chemical or mineral sunscreen?
“It's largely a matter of preference,” says Dr. Robert A. Dorschner, a board-certified dermatologist at the University of California, San Diego.
Mineral sunscreens tend to work very well for protecting against the most damaging UVB component, but they're a little bit weaker with the UVA component.
They do, however, tend to be the least irritating. So for children or people who have sensitive skin or conditions such as eczema, mineral sunscreens “might be a better choice,” says Dr. Dorschner.
They can be stubborn to remove, though. To clean off mineral sunscreens without irritating your skin, use your fingertips to apply a cleansing oil or balm mixed with a little lukewarm water to loosen the sunscreen film. Rinse, then take a second pass with a gentle cream or gel cleanser. No need for hot water or abrasive scraping—just gentle circles and a little patience.
Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, tend to be more cosmetically elegant. Mineral sunscreens can leave a pallor that makes users look a bit ghostly, especially for people with dark skin. Luckily, newer formulations have improved that issue.
For Black and dark-skinned sunbathers, Ashley Morris of NBC News put together this great guide for cosmetically appealing mineral options that won’t leave a white cast on skin.
The word “chemical” may be off-putting for some, but that kind of sunscreen is absorbed only by the top layers of skin rather than entering the bloodstream or lymphatic system. That means there shouldn't be any system-wide effects. A better way to think of the ingredients may be as “organic compounds,” which has a nicer ring to it.
Finally, iron oxide–based tinted sunscreens can be effective against visible light, which “actually probably plays a bigger role in [sun damage] than we ever knew,” says Dr. Deignan.
What should you look for on the label? And how high should the SPF rating be?
No matter which route you go, experts agree the key words you want to look for on sunscreen labels are “broad spectrum UV protection,” with an SPF rating of 30 or higher.
Sunscreens with SPFs of 50 or 70 or 100 do offer greater protection, but not by as much as you might think. The protective difference between SPF 30 and SPF 50, for example, is about 1%, with SPF 30 blocking around 97% of UVB rays and SPF 50 blocking 98%.
The difference between SPF 30 and SPF 15 (which blocks about 93% of UVB rays) is more significant.
Dr. Deignan recommends sunscreen shoppers look at the annual Consumer Reports guide, which verifies through scientific testing which brands are as effective as their labels claim.
Does it matter whether you use sprays, lotions, mists, or sticks?
When applied properly, the form your sunscreen comes in doesn't make that much of a difference.
For hairy parts of the body, sprays and mists can go on easier, provided you’re making sure to use enough.
“One important thing about the sprays is that almost all of them still need to be rubbed in to be effective,” advises Dr. Dorschner.
A good method for using sprays and mists is to apply a layer, rub it in, and then do another pass 15 minutes later to ensure even coverage. And you really want to spritz it on, not lightly mist it like perfume—think enough to fill a shot glass.
For folks concerned about stickiness, sprays that contain alcohol can be a good option, provided they aren’t too drying on your skin.
For faces, lotions are generally considered better than sprays. “ You just don’t want to be inhaling sunscreen like that,” says Dr. Deignan.
A common complaint among sunscreen users is that it burns their eyes. To help with that, sunscreens marketed as “sport” brands are made of compounds that are both less irritating and a bit more water-resistant, meaning they don’t tend to run into the eyes as much when you sweat.
Deodorant-style sunscreen sticks are compact and travel nicely, with the added benefit of not needing to be bag-checked to get through TSA, which doesn't consider sunscreen sticks a liquid (as long as they're solid).
SPF lip balms are highly recommended, too. They should be reapplied every half hour, compared to the every-2-hours reapplication recommended for general sunscreen.
And while we're on the subject of sun protection, wear sunglasses—not only to prevent squinting all day but also for the important UV protection they provide.
Is sun-protective clothing effective?
All of the dermatologists we spoke with love rash guards and UPF clothing, which have the advantage of never needing to be reapplied in order to be effective. (A rash guard, in case you're unfamiliar with the term, is one of those lightweight athletic shirts made of stretchy material. UPF stands for "Ultraviolet Protection Factor.")
“They have hoodies, they have jackets, they have swimwear, they have hats with UPF in them ... We love them,” says Dr. Choi.
For clothing, you want to seek out garments with a UPF rating of at least 50. Thumbholes can be helpful for preventing sleeves from riding up, and hoodies help cover the back of the neck, a part of the body dermatologists frequently see cancerous tissue on, along with eyelids, ears, and the backs of hands.
Personally, I’ve worn the superlightweight Sunday Afternoons Ultra Adventure Hat—a favorite of the New York Times’ Wirecutter—for years. The hat looks a little silly but is very comfortable and offers fantastic coverage.
What about makeup with sunscreen?
Makeups, foundations, and moisturizers that advertise SPF protection can offer a legitimate safeguard against harmful rays, but they can also instill a false sense of security.
“Do not rely on makeup alone for sun protection,” says Dr. Choi. Beauty products are often at a lower SPF (which is still better than nothing) and usually aren't reapplied as often as dermatologists would recommend for the best protection (who redoes their makeup every 2 hours?).
And unless you’re painting like a drag queen, you’re probably not using enough of the product for adequate coverage even the first time you apply.
Are international brands better?
Your friend who swears by Korean or French sunscreen may actually be onto something.
“One thing about sunscreens in the U.S. is they haven't updated their regulations in years,” says Dr. Choi. “So that's why in Europe and Asia, you're seeing some sunscreens that have certain ingredients that are not yet approved here.”
Those can include UV filters like Uvinul or Tinosorb S (bemotrizinol), which has only recently been proposed for review by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.
If you do splurge on a futuristic sunscreen from overseas, just make sure you actually use it in the recommended amounts. This is not the sort of thing you should conserve.
Says Dr. Deignan, “ If you have some precious little 3-ounce bottle of sunscreen that you're only going to dollop out a little bit of it for using every day, you're not really doing yourself any good.”