The town of Reading and Berks County make up one of the loveliest parts of Pennsylvania, and possibly one of the most mysterious, with hex signs adorning the barns, predatory raptors effortlessly swirling on air currents above your head and a splendid homestead for a peace-loving commune that died out in 1934. The good news is that all these can be seen inexpensively, while you enjoy the calming influence of the area, as well as eating copiously at Pennsylvania Dutch-style restaurants along the way, all located within a couple hours driving time just northwest of Philadelphia.
Hex Signs, Raptors & A Failed Commune
Tops in these parts is Hawk Mountain Sanctuary, the world's first refuge for birds of prey (since 1934), now the planet's leading research center for hawks, eagles, falcons, and the like. The very best time to see them is between September and November, when more than 14 species migrate past the mountain on the Appalachian flyway. More than half the birds that pass here spend the winter in Central and South America (Vera Cruz in Mexico is a favorite hangout.) The birds use pockets of warm rising air and winds to help fuel their long-distance journeys. Bald eagles begin passing by in August, hawks in September. The greatest variety, again mostly hawks, fly through in October, while November brings golden eagles and goshawks. It's not unheard of to see more than a thousand hawks on a favorable flight day in September or October. Admission is $5 adults, $4 seniors, $3 children 6-12, under 6 free. Prices go up on weekends and holidays from September through November to $7 for adults & seniors, though prices remain the same for children. 1700 Hawk Mountain Road, Kempton PA, phone 610/756-6000, Web site www.hawkmountain.org.
Hex signs are seen on many barns in Berks County, relics of German and Swiss settlers who immigrated here during the 18th and 19th centuries. The signs are just for decoration, the patterns resembling those found on some of the quilts also produced here during long, hard winters. Paint was too costly before the 1830s to decorate barns, but after that, these folk designs became popular, with hearts, tulips and other motifs commonly found on birth, marriage and baptism certificates in a style known as Fraktur. Though they are intended "just for nice," as one old farmer put it, the 5-pointed star does protect against evil, the 6-lobed petal safeguards from harm, and the 6-pointed star protects from lightning. (Note that these hex signs never appear on Amish or Mennonite barns, as their religion strictly forbids anything "fancy" or decorative.) Reading & Berks County Visitors Bureau has laid out a self-driven Hex Barn Art Tour of 20 barns along a 30-mile route. You can pick up a free pamphlet at their office (see below) and in other places around the county. Along the route are several other attractions, including Hawk Mountain, Crystal Cave and the Blue Rocks campgrounds, where you can start your hike on the Appalachian Trail.
Another highlight is the Ephrata Cloister, a National Historical Landmark founded in 1732 by a group of celibate German settlers fleeing unrest in their homeland. The 30-acre grounds, housing one of America's earliest communal societies, was an early center for printing and publishing in Pennsylvania. Ten of the original buildings have been restored and interpreted, so that today you can visit the small museum (look for the 4-foot-long glass trumpet), the Sisters' House, the Brothers' House, and more. For guided tours of the grounds: Adult $6, Senior $5.50, children $4, families $17. If you don't want a tour, you can wander the site freely. 632 W. Main Street, Ephrata PA, phone 717/733-6600. It's a good idea to call ahead for reservations.
Where to Stay
The Lincoln Plaza Hotel occupies one of Reading's most beautiful old-fashioned buildings, though it has been completely modernized inside. Built in 1928 and restored 70 years later, its rooms contain two-line phones with data port, refrigerator, microwave oven and coffee maker, plus free HBO on the TV. 100 North Fifth, Reading PA 19601, phone 610/372-3700, fax 372-2966, Web site www.lincolnplaza.com. A double room for two persons on the weekend starts from $69. They also offer special packages.
At the Bella Vista B&B in Akron, there are six guest rooms, the prices starting at $85. Breakfast is included, and you can have it in the formal dining room or on the summer porch. Each room has a private bath and is air-conditioned. You can relax on the big front porch, on the patio or in a hot tub, and there's a 50-acre park across the street. 1216 East Main Street, Akron PA 17501, phone 888/948-9726 or 717/859-4227, Web site www.bellavistabandb.com
Where to Eat
The Deitsch Eck Restaurant in Lenhartsville has been feeding travelers and locals alike with generous portions of Pennsylvania Dutch food, six days a week--never on Mondays--since 1914. This "Dutch Corner" (as its name signifies) is decorated with hex signs. A baked ham lunch costs $6.95, with wilted lettuce (due to the hot bacon dressing) and corn fritters. Try the locally-made birch beer (like a root beer only sharper), or one of its six other flavors, such as orange cream or sarsaparilla. Steve Stetzler is the owner. Old Route 22, Lenhartsville, phone 610/562-8520.
For the unusual, try the Antique Airplane Restaurant in Reading, especially if you're an aviation buff. A real 1927 monoplane hangs over your head as you dine, and there are plenty of museum-quality photographs and memorabilia adorning the room as well. Open daily for breakfast, six days a week for lunch and dinner, with standard dishes such as pork chops with fixing's at $14.95. Best Western Dutch Colony Inn, 4635 Perkiomen Avenue (Route 422 East), Reading, phone 610/779-2345. Closed Sundays.
For more information on the area, including exhaustive listings for accommodations, restaurants shopping and attractions, contact the Reading & Berks County Visitors Bureau at 800/443-6610 or 610/375-4085, Web site www.readingberkspa.com.
Have you taken a trip recently to Pennsylvania Dutch country in southwestern PA or have comments about this article? Tell us about it in our popular Message Boards by clicking here.