There's a big mountain in almost every hilly part of the world, but there's only one "Big Mountain," and that's just north of Whitefish, Montana, a few miles west of Glacier National Park. Since 1947, a resort has been operating here, providing skiing and hiking opportunities for several generations of enthusiasts.
Getting to Big Mountain from other parts of the country is easy. The nearest major airport is at Kalispell, 20 miles down US 93, via the marvelous town of Whitefish, where you can stay and dine should you wish to leave the resort itself. Whitefish has been famous for years, particularly during the era of big railroads, when the Northern Pacific main line operated through here. (It still does, with nearly 40 trains a day, the passengers-only Empire Builder once daily in each direction.)
High season room prices are fairly high here, but off season can be quite inexpensive. Except during summer, you can stay in this area for as little as $40.40 a day, sharing a $50 double at the Chalet Motel, for instance, then having breakfast at Alpenglow for $3.50, lunch at Serrano's for $4.95, and a pizza dinner at Truby's for just $6.95. Food prices remain the same in summer, but room rates soar, making the cheapest good accommodations at either the Garden Wall or at Hibernation up on Big Mountain, either at $95 for a double room. Your total outlay then would be around $62.90 and up. (For details, see listings below.)
Highlights
Big Mountain Resort is a world unto itself, with nine lodging places, ten restaurants, seven shops, and schools for skiing. You can rent equipment, go snowboarding, indulge in Nastar ski racing, travel over 16 kilometers of Nordic trails, ride thrill sleds (the latest in high tech ways to break your neck), take up snow tubing, snow shoeing, snowmobiling, or dog sled adventures. A free S.N.O.W. (Shuttle Network of Whitefish) shuttle bus operates between Big Mountain and the town of Whitefish daily from 7 AM to 10 PM in ski season, and the resort has its own internal village shuttle from 8 to 6. There are also free village wagon rides, weekly slide shows, Friday Family Fun Nights, and more. During the winter, they have ski and stay packages for as little as $45 per person, double occupancy, at the Hibernation House. For reservations, phone Big Mountain at 800/858-4152 and get information at 406/862-1900 or on their Web sites, www.skiwhitefish.com or www.bigmtn.com. Their snail mail address is PO Box 1400, Whitefish MT 59937.
In Whitefish, you should take a look at the marvelous old train station, right across from a charming park from the town's main drag, Central Avenue. Here you'll find the Stumptown Historical Society Museum right in the station. The museum is filled with artifacts and memorabilia that go through the town's history as a tiny village to a central railroad town. "Stumptown" refers to the forest that was cut down to make way for the railroad at the turn of the century. The museum is located at 500 Depot Street, Whitefish MT 59937, phone 406/862-0067.
Along Central Avenue, besides several fine restaurants (see listings below), there's The Great Northern Brewing Company, at Central and Railway, creator of Black Star beer, among others. In summer, you can have a sampling of four different beers between noon and 6, daily except Sundays. In winter, the tasting room is open from 3 to 7. Phone 406/863-1000 for more information or to make reservations. In addition to the good restaurants (some of which are listed below), there are dives (with slot machines, too) such as The Bulldog and Remington's, next door. Much better is the Great Northern Bar & Grill (not to be confused with the brewery across he street), a gathering place for the better class of local residents.
Whitefish has a surprisingly large number of artists and six galleries. One of the finest of the latter is the Whitefish Gallery & Jenson Studios, out at 214 W. Second Street (Highway 93 North), Whitefish, phone 406/862-5120. You'll find a wide collection of works here, highlighted by the pottery of Mike Jenson (a former mayor) himself. Although his major works cost from $200 to $5000, you can find mugs from $16 and other small pieces for as little as $10.
Hotels
As rustic as you can get, yet with friendly owners and all the basic amenities you could want, the Bunkhouse Traveler's Inn & Hostel is just two blocks from downtown Whitefish, the bus station or the S.N.O.W. bus stop, and three blocks from the busy train depot. There are 17 beds here, with a guest kitchen, comfortable common area (TV, library and games), a great deck overlooking Big Mountain, ski and group discounts, and free local phone calls. Dorm beds run only $13, a private double room costs only $30. In each case, you share a bathroom. Contact the proprietors, Wayne Suary and Marisa van Lawick at 217 Railway Street, Whitefish MT 59937, phone 406/862-3377, e-mail waymar@digisys.net.
At the Chalet Motel in Whitefish, six of the units have fridges, all have TV and phone. You pay from $50 to $55 off season, $105 to $125 in high season. To be sure of the best prices, ask for AAA or other discounted rates. On the premises are a big indoor heated swimming pool, a Jacuzzi, and a sauna. The suite here is one of the best I have ever seen in a motel anywhere. Contact the motel at 6430 Highway 93 South, Whitefish MT 59937, phone 406/862-5581.
Hibernation House is the least expensive place to stay on Big Mountain itself. Right next door to the far ritzier Kandahar Lodge, the Hibernation charges as little as $70 per double room, up to $95 in high season. Accommodations are simple, but clean and comfortable. On the premises is a laundry, and you have access to the neighboring spa. Full breakfast is included in the rates, and the rooms are quiet. Phone 800/858-4152 or check out the Web site, www.bigmtn.com/html/hibhouse.html.
At the Hidden Moose Lodge near Whitefish, their rooms go for less than $100 (actually $89 and $99) nine months of the year but rise to over that (actually $115) during the summer high season. A full breakfast is included. Cunningly decorated (old skis are the stairway handrails, for instance), this is a most attractive five-year-old spot, each room having custom log furniture, private bath, cable TV and VCR, mini fridge, phone, private deck, and private entrance. Rates include free full Montana-sized breakfast, free use of mountain bikes, outdoor hot tub, evening beverages. Contact the lodge at 1735 E. Lakeshore Drive, Whitefish MT 59937, phone 888/733-6667 or 406/862-6516, Fax 406/862-6514, e-mail seemoose@digisys.net, Web site www.hiddenmoooselodge.com.
At the Good Medicine Lodge in Whitefish, they have put the family rooms (with kids) upstairs above the TV room, since it is children who will be using the boob tube most of the time, anyhow. Adults get rooms in the quieter reaches of the lodge, and they can make use of the guest bar, open 24 hours daily, with snacks, cookies, hot cocoa, etc. Rates start at $85 for the nine rooms (most with balconies), and range up to $145. There's an entirely civilized air about this place, with music, décor, and artwork to match. Contact the lodge at 537 Wisconsin Avenue, Whitefish MT 59937, phone 406/862-5488, fax 406/862-5489, e-mail goodrx@digisys.net, Web site www.goodmedicinelodge.com.
Most charming of places to stay in Whitefish is The Garden Wall, named for the mountainside in Glacier National Park. Owned and operated by Rhonda and Mike Fitzgerald, it is a magnificently-restored 1920s house, beautifully sited on a corner just off the main business district of the town, right at a winter S.N.O.W. shuttle stop. Double rooms in winter start at only $80, in summer at $95. There are only five units, most with private bath (some with claw-foot bathtubs).The rates include a full gourmet breakfast, and you can sip sherry in front of the fireplace in the evening after a day of skiing or mountain hiking. Another nice touch: your wakeup call includes a coffee (or tea) tray brought to your room, with a rose, every morning. Contact them Fitzgeralds at 504 Spokane Avenue, Whitefish MT 59937, phone 406/862-3440, e-mail garden@digisys.net, Web site www.wtp.net/go/gardenwall.
Restaurants
At the Alpenglow Inn, up on Big Mountain, breakfast costs start at $3.50 for one egg any style, two strips of bacon, toas, and jam. Sandwiches at lunch run from $5.25 for a burger, and at dinner, meals begin at $7.95 for spaghetti and meatballs (all you can eat), but average around $12.95 for chicken or pork dishes. The kids' dinner menu offers meals from $3.95 and up. The inn is on Big Mountain, phone 406/862-6966.
At the Wildwood Café, breakfast is served until 10:30, and you can get biscuits and gravy for $4.25, or the Great Northern (roasted potatoes, onions, peppers, tomatoes, egg, and cheese) at the same price. Sandwiches at lunchtime run from $5.75 for whole, $3.95 for half, add a cup of soup or small garden salad for $2. The café is at 102 Wisconsin Avenue, Whitefish, phone 406/863-9443.
You can have an inexpensive lunch at Serrano's in Whitefish, with prices starting as low as $4.95 for rojo Diablo stew (their version of chili verde), a pork dish served with flour tortillas. There are many other Mexican and American dishes at around $6 or $7. Located at 10 Central Avenue, Whitefish, phone 406/862-5600.
The most charming of Whitefish eateries is the Whitefish Times Coffeehouse & Restaurant, in the heart of town, opposite the Frank Lloyd Wright Building. You can sit and read the newspapers here (including the New York Times and other major publications), while having coffee or their homemade pastries. They have a Sunday brunch to die for, from $6.50 (three-cheese omelet or blueberry crepes), with side dishes of yogurt and granola, roasted potatoes, fruit cup, etc. Ask for their espresso card, which gives you a free cup of coffee after you buy ten. Open daily for breakfast, Sundays for brunch up to 5 PM. 334 Central Avenue, Whitefish, phone 406/862-AHHH (406/862-2444)
Truby's is a Whitefish institution, with good prices, too. Wood-fired traditional pizzas start at $6.95 (and at the same price, create your own pizza), pasta dishes and other main courses from $8.95. Burgers on focaccia bread, with fries, start at $5.95. All this and an elegant ambiance, including a lovely garden. They are at 115 Central Avenue, Whitefish, phone 406/862-1979. Open daily except Sundays for lunch and dinner, on Sunday's, dinner only.
Cajun style cooking is the star at Tupelo, also in central Whitefish, with pastas from $11.95, Creole specialties from the same price (e.g., Gumbo served over steamed rice) and up. Open nightly for dinner from 5:30. 17 Central Avenue, Whitefish, phone 406/862-6136.
If you're on a health kick, try the delicious offerings at the Moon Bowl Kitchen, where only organic, vegetarian, and whole food cuisine is served. Typical dinner is $6 (cauliflower curry with spiced lentils and rice, including an herbal drink). Soup (tomato Florentine or miso with tofu) and bread runs $4, salad and bread the same price. Daily specials might include Asian spiced and seared tempeh served over rice with warm cabbage salad for $8. Open weekdays for lunch and dinner. Upstairs is the Satsang Yoga Center, which offers classes in yoga as well as t'ai chi, Pilates and more. Contact the restaurant at 110 Lupfer Avenue, Whitefish, phone 406/862-1200, e-mail moonbowl@montana.com. Yoga center is 406/863-2000, e-mail info@satsangyoga.org.
If you would like to read additional information from the Frommer's guides about the places mentioned in this article, click on the links below.
For Montana, click here: www.frommers.com/destinations/montana
For Kalispell, click here: www.frommers.com/destinations/kalispell
For Whitefish, click here: www.frommers.com/destinations/whitefish