Without question, Delft is Holland's prettiest town, laced with quiet canals, traversed by quaint streets of old houses and sewn together with graceful bridges everywhere. You come here for peace and quiet, plus the chance to observe the Dutch at their best--strong, peacefully resolute, and friendly to a fault. Perhaps you come also for Delftware, the seemingly ubiquitous blue and white china that graces so many palaces, museums and just plain home dining rooms around the western world. Turn off your cell phone, forget about checking your e-mail and enjoy a pause in the past--while it lasts.
Highlights
The New Church (Nieuwe Kerk) is Delft's most imposing building and the tallest. The burial place of Dutch kings and queens since Prince William was assassinated in 1584 (the latest to be entombed was Wilhelmina, in 1962), the church was founded here in 1351 when a beggar and a local burgher saw a golden church in the sky, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In the late 14th century, work began on the tower and the central structure, which you can now see. There have been many renovations throughout the centuries following. In addition to the impressive Mausoleum, look for the Wilhelmina Window, donated by Edward Bok, the famous editor of the Saturday Evening Post, who also created the Bok Tower Gardens and its wonderful carillon in Lake Wales, Florida. At the New Church, you can listen in English to the Dutch Reformed services on Sunday at 10 and 5 through earphones, the work of volunteer interpreters. You can get more information by e-mailing sberg30@hotmail.com.
The Old Church (Oude Kerk) has a 75-meter (about 225 feet) tower that tilts quite a bit (about 6 feet out of plumb), but not as sharply as the Leaning Tower of Pisa. There has been a church on this spot as far back as 1050, though the tower was added between 1325 and 1350. Best find inside: the tombstones in the floor. About 400 persons are buried within the church, including the painter Johannes Vermeer, the physicist Anton van Leeuwenhoek (inventor of the microscope and discoverer of bacteria, sperm cells, blood cells and more), and Maarten Tromp, one of Holland's greatest naval heroes. Services are held every Sunday. Location is 25 Heilige Geestkerkhof, phone 212 3015.
For three museums in Delft, there is a combi-ticket, costing adults €5 (about $4.50), children less, kids under 12 free. You can purchase this at any of the first three museums described below.
The Prinsenhof Municipal Museum is in a former convent dating back to the early 15th century. In late 1572, however, Delft decided to side with the Prince of Orange in the struggle for independence from Spanish rule, and the Dutch Reformed Church took over the Catholic convent. William of Orange, the leader of the revolt against King Philip II of Spain, chose the convent as his residence, staying there until he was assassinated on the spot. For 300 years, the building was used as guesthouse, stables, a workshop for glassmakers, a school, barracks, and a concert hall. But since 1887, it has been a museum. You can see a few splendid paintings and some artifacts reflecting the city's history. Adults pay €3.40 (about $3), seniors and children less. Closed Mondays. 1 Sint Agathaplein, phone 260 2358.
The Museum Nusantara is a small place, filled with objects from Indonesia (the former Dutch East Indies), with some carvings from Bali, musical instruments, masks and fetish figures. Location 4-5 Sint Agathaplein.
The Museum Lambert van Meerten is the former residence of an industrialist, dating from 1893 and a museum since 1902. The collection consists of tiles, period rooms, chinaware, pottery and architectural bits and pieces. Location 199 Oude Delft.
If you want to bicycle around Delft and its surroundings, get a copy of the route map Delftse Hout and the Polders of the Oostland at the Tourist Office for €1.40 (about $1.25).
Delftware
Remember, true Delftware is handpainted by skilled artists, so be sure you're not being shown something mass-produced and with designs stamped on. Check out either of these prominent places, which sell the real thing:
De Porceleyne Fles, 196 Rotterdamseweg, phone 256-0234. Open daily (except Sundays from November through March). The Delft Blue is manufactured here and hand painted. You can watch the work being done and see an audiovisual show explaining the process. Tour only €2.50 (about $2.25).
De Candelaer, 14 Kerkstraat, phone 213 1848. Open daily (except closed on Sundays from October through March). Demonstrations of painting of Delftware, viewing of showroom and manufacturing process. Free admission.
Lodging
As in many U,S. cities, Delft has a visitor's tax, amounting to just €1.80 (about $1.60) per person per night.
I think the most charming of moderately priced places to stay in Delft is the Hotel Vermeer (3-star in the official government rating system), at 18-22 Moslaan, in the heart of town. There are 24 rooms in this recently renovated old house, located on a gorgeous and quiet canal with friendly ducks constantly in attendance near the front door. Each room has color TV, phone and datalink, shower and toilet. Each room name has a Vermeer connection and there are copies of his paintings throughout. A room for two persons goes for €109.50 (about $99). The price includes breakfast, service charges and VAT (Value Added Tax), excluding visitor's tax. Contact them at 212 6466, e-mail hotelvermeer@hotelnet.nl, Web site www.hotelvermeer.nl.
Another fine place to stay is in a National Historic Building, the Bridges House, in the former home of the famous painter Jan Steen. Also right in the town center, this hotel has ten luxuriously furnished rooms, and is rated 3-stars by the Dutch government (out of five). Room for two persons costs from €125 to €179 (about $113 to $161). Location: 74 Oude Delft, phone 212 4036.
Dining Out
In the Hotel Vermeer (see above for contact information) is a charming restaurant, the Johannes Vermeer, serving dinner only (and breakfast to guests). In winter, ask for erwtensoep (pea soup) and/or hutspot (a thick stew).
The Nunnery (De Nonnerij) is a cozy place in the crypt of the Prinsenhof Museum, serving lunch only, with pasta meals from €7.50 ($6.75), sandwiches from €4.40 ($4), as well as pizza and more. No phone, entrance through garden at side of convent/museum.
Summing Up
The country code for the Netherlands is 31, the area code for Delft is 15. To reach Holland from the states, dial first 011 to get an international line, then the country, the area code and then the numbers listed above.
The rate of exchange at time of writing was €1 equals about 90¢, or $1 equals about €1.10