"Sometimes you'll see the mayor and the vice-mayor dancing here," said the ballroom manager, "not together, of course." And why shouldn't they be shuffling along happily? The town of Gulfport owns the hall, called (in the old-fashioned way) a casino, and lots of folks come here to while away an evening of hoofing it, for as little as $6. (Don't confuse tiny Gulfport, Florida, pop. 12,500, with Gulfport, Mississippi, pop. way more than that. And this Florida casino has NO gambling of any kind!)
The St. Petersburg-Clearwater area of the state is proud of its learning opportunities, as it is of the fine beaches here, but I never expected to find so much interest in plain old dancing for fun. Gulfport, its sweet historic district a peaceful enclave on Tampa Bay, is just one of several sites where your feet can lead your body into an evening of enjoyment. The Town Shores Dance Club meets Monday evenings from 7 to 8:30, at the Gulfport Casino, and you can learn privately at My Dance Studio, or join their groups every Tuesday and Thursday evening from 7:30 to 8:30, $15 per couple, $10 per person. Phone them at 727/322-1396.
You can even learn to dance at the Gulfport Casino Ballroom itself (phone 727/893-1070, www.ci.gulfport.fl.us or e-mail mshaw@ci.gulfport.fl.us). Lessons take place every Thursday evening from 7 to 8, following which is a DJ-organized dance to 10:30, all costing just $6. Learning without a partner is possible with line dancing, every Wednesday afternoon ($3). The ballroom has live music every Sunday evening ($6) and Tuesday afternoon ($3), and special programs on weekends ($15). Even in summer, they open on Tuesday afternoons and Sunday nights. Soft drinks run $1, beer $2, wine $3 and cocktails $4, and a big sign reads "No Tipping Allowed." (The latter is because everyone is a well-paid city employee. This is the town, after all, where the city manager is said to have tried to decline a pay raise earlier this year.)
Highlights
One of the most profound learning experiences I have ever had takes place daily at the Suncoast Seabird Sanctuary, the country's largest wild bird hospital. The story of how Ralph Heath and his dedicated staff minister to injured birds is moving enough, but to see them on the beach feeding wild pelicans daily is a real treat. Part of the feeding process is to catch birds that have fishing lines and hooks embedded in their bills and wings. They are taken directly to the hospital and operated on. Heath says the sanctuary has a 93% success/release rate for birds that survive the first 24 hours. There are about 500 birds here at any one time, about 10,000 being taken in each year. (While I was here recently, a lady came in, having driven about 20 miles, to turn over to Heath a mourning dove injured by a cat.) Contact them at b www.seabirdsanctuary.org. Admission is free.
Learning Vacations, the Artful Way
At the Gulf Coast Museum of Art in the Pinewood Cultural Park, I joined a class learning the rudiments of painting with watercolors, the 8-hour course costing just $155, all materials included. The dedicated and articulate instructor was Suzanne McDermott, well known in her field, who can be reached at workshop@rosemared.com.The museum runs classes on different subjects up through May 24 this year, in April alone offering workshops on Japanese ceramics (raku, $110), basics of 35 mm photography ($60), landscape painting ($100), basics of digital photography for beginners ($60), basket weaving ($35), mosaic ($100), hand painted floorcloths ($100) and pen & ink drawing ($80). They're having a Spring Master Artist Workshop on transfer etching systems May 18 & 19, 2002, 8 hours daily, costing $215, deadline for registering April 26. Phone the museum at 727/518-6833 or view the Web site, www.gulfcoastmuseum.org.
After you've learned to be a painter in 8 hours (!), you can drive over to the Salvador Dali Museum, where the largest number of that master's works is on display. Yes, dripping watches and all. Admission $10 for adults, seniors $7, students $5, children under 10 are free. The museum is celebrating its 20th anniversary throughout March with special exhibitions and events. Located at 1000 Third Street South, St. Petersburg, phone 727/823-3767, online www.salvadordalimuseum.org.
Better yet, get yourself over to the small town of Gulfport, also on Tampa Bay, and check out the 40 galleries, studios, boutiques and restaurants (all within a few short blocks). Drop in the Small Adventures Bookstore, crammed mostly with used books (about 20,000 of them), and chat with the owners, Mr. and Mrs. Dutton, who are proud of their town and don't mind saying so. There may be a neighbor out in the front yard playing and singing old favorites on his keyboard in the evening.
Golfing Around
There are several golf schools, of which I have room to mention only two: At the Westin Innisbrook Resort in Palm Harbor, a three-day (2 night) session will run you $999 for each of two persons, $1,179 if you learn alone. Prices are based on one room (either single or double) at the Resort, and there is a 10% discount between June 1 and September 30. (You'll have to add 11% for taxes and resort fees, though.) They use high-speed video equipment in order to correct your mistakes, among other techniques. Jim Linkin (1999 PGA Standard of Excellence Award) and Pat Livingston (a PGA 2001 Teacher of the Year) will be your instructors. (If you commute, the fee is only $799.) There are classes lasting 4 and 5 days, too, at higher prices. Contact them at www.nationalgolfschool.com/innisbrook.htm.
At the Dunedin Country Club in Dunedin, where you stay at the Harbor Inn (on the bay), a 3-day (2 night) package costs $979 each if there are two persons, $1,159 if you are a single student. Included in the price is a signed copy of Jim Linkin's book, The Link to Senior Golf. There are also classes of 4 and 5 days' duration, again at higher prices. Contact them at www.nationalgolfschool.com/dunedin.htm.
Sailing & Lessons
If you're itching to sail, go to Dolphin Landings and ask for the affable and insightful Captain Dan, who will arrange a dolphin watch, a sailing cruise on the protected Boca Ciega Bay, or other water sports. Using the American Sailing Association (ASA) standards, the Charter Boat Center here offers classes for all levels, including beginners at $395 for a two-day course, minimum of 2 students required, maximum of 4. There is also an all-female class. They offer a 10% discount on off-season (May through September) bookings, and for groups of 3 or 4 students. 4737 Gulf Boulevard, St. Pete Beach, phone 727/367-4488, www.dolphinlandings.com.
Sailing Florida Charters & Sailing School also has ASA-approved courses, starting with a beginner's program for $375 for a two-day course, including classroom and on-the-water instruction. 14321 Bay Street SE, St. Petersburg 33701, phone 727/823-1155 or 800/879-2244, Web site www.sailboatcharter.com.
Steve & Doris Colgate's Offshore Sailing School offers 3-day Learn to Sail packages that include a 3-night stay at the cozy Mansion House B&B (phone 727/821-9391, www.mansionbandb.com; breakfast included), starting at $1092 per person from April 15 through December 20, $1359 the rest of the year. Contact them at 800/221-4326 or www.offshore-sailing.com.
At St. Petersburg Yacht Charters & Sales, they will instruct you at a $100 per day cost (8 hours) or $150 for overnight plus the cost of food. Contact them at www.stpeteyachtcharters.com.
Lodging
The Renaissance Vinoy Resort is pricey (rooms $179 and up), but worth a stay, if only for the history of the place (it's on the National Register and is a member of the Historic Hotels of America) and the outstanding service. If you're not taking a room here, sign up for a tour and lunch in their splendid Terrace Restaurant, the two costing only $20 (main course and cheesecake!). They throw in a small book about the hotel's past, as well. Without lunch, the tour costs $7, for hotel guests $5). They are at 501 Fifth Avenue NE, St. Petersburg 33701, phone 727/894-1000 or (for reservations) 800/HOTELS-1, www.renaissancehotels.com.
You go to the Don Cesar, the huge pink palazzo on St. Pete Beach, to experience a romantic getaway, plus access to two huge swimming pools, the beach itself and a plethora of activities and amenities scattered in and about the resort. Rates start at $179 off-season and go up and up, but there are some promotional rates starting at just $129 (ask for them). Refined elegance, resort ambience. 3400 Gulf Boulevard, St. Pete Beach 33706, phone727/360-1881 or 800/282-1116, www.doncesar.com.
Dining
Among the best seafood restaurants in the area is The Lobster Pot, 17814 Gulf Boulevard, Reddington Shores, phone 727/391-8592. Since 1978 they have been serving fresh finny food simply (as in black grouper at $18.75) or in a complicated fashion (e.g. scampi Provencale at $22.50). Warm atmosphere, humorous signs, and friendly staff. All main courses are served with mixed garden greens, potato and vegetable. They add an automatic 15% tip so you needn't figure it out.
At The Boat House in St. Pete Beach you are right on the water--in the middle of a marina, no less. Be prepared for huge portions and prices for fish in the $12.95 to $19.95 range (catfish to seafood platter), each with a choice of 2 side orders, plus salad and hot rolls. They serve Sunset Specials between 3 and 6 PM that range from $7.95 for pot roast to $9.99 for a 30-piece shrimp dinner. Served with choice of one side dish, plus salad and bread. 9555 Blind Pass Road, phone 727/367-9993.
At Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish, you can guzzle draft beer at $1.75 (it comes in frozen mugs). A hamburger here runs just $3.95, but I recommend the huge amount of baked salmon at $15, the mullet at $10.95 or the mackerel (when they have it) at $11.95. Main courses come with German potato salad and a big slice of tomato and onion. Contact them at 1350 Pasadena Avenue, South Pasadena, phone 727/381-7931.
In Gulfport, try the Backfin Blue Cafe, located in a converted bungalow on the main street of the historic district. The specialty is crab cakes at $15.95 (with salad and choice of veggie). Don't miss their corn and crab chowder, thick enough to walk on and only $3.50. At lunchtime, sandwiches with one side go for $6.95. 2913 Beach Boulevard S., St. Petersburg, phone 727/343-3583.
Summing Up
Getting around without your car can be fun, especially by using the Suncoast Beach Trolley, which runs every 20 to 30 minutes from 5:45 AM to 9:30 PM, daily, with longer hours on Friday and Saturday. They operate from the southernmost part of the beaches (Pass a Grille) to the northernmost (Belleair). Get exact times at 727/530-9911 (hearing impaired 727/533-4411) or click on www.psta.net. Exact change of $1.25 per ride, or you can purchase a GO card, which gives you unlimited trips on any PSTA vehicle (bus, etc.). The daily GO card is $3, 7-day $12.50. Seniors and disabled persons pay half fare.
For more information on the area, contact the St. Petersburg Clearwater Area CVB at 727/464-7200, fax 727/464-7222, e-mail info@floridasbeach.com, Web site www.floridasbeach.com. For hotel reservations other than for lodgings noted above, phone 877/FL BEACH (same as 877/352-3224).