California’s coastal Highway 1 gets all the attention (and the tourists), but U.S. Highway 395 may be California’s best-kept road trip secret.
This 1-week itinerary follows an open stretch of 395 (free of that infamous Golden State gridlock) from the mountains of Lake Tahoe to the shores of San Francisco. Along the way, we’ll stop to explore psychedelic lakes in the hip ski town of Mammoth Lakes before heading west through Yosemite National Park to the Bay Area, ending this nature escape with a visit to one of America’s most fascinating cities.
This quieter alternative to the usual tourist trail connects some of Northern California’s most impressive highlights at a more relaxed pace.
Days 1–2: Lake Tahoe
While Lake Tahoe is often associated with skiing, you could make a case for summer and fall as the best times to visit this gorgeous alpine lake straddling the California–Nevada border in the eastern Sierra Nevada mountains.
The destination is split between North and South Lake Tahoe, with the northern end offering a laid-back, serene alternative to the hustle and bustle of the more party- and casino-centric South Tahoe.
Tahoe City makes a great base of operations on the northern shore’s California side, where you can start your excursion with a beer and pizza at Za’s Lakefront before stepping out onto the adjacent Tahoe City Lakeside Trail for an easy stroll along Commons Beach and the Tahoe City Marina, where views of the lake’s sun-dappled waters lapping against the mountain-rimmed landscape seem endless.
Over on the Nevada side, Sand Harbor State Park is easily one of the Silver State’s most underrated attractions, not to mention one of America’s most beautiful state parks. The rest of the vicinity showcases a fun Rat Pack–inspired vibe at old-school joints like Crystal Bay Steak and Lobster House, where you can even sit in the “Sinatra booth.”
Rent a boat from the nearby Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort and cruise the coast for some unexpected finds, including the Secret Cove nude beach.
Days 3–4: Mammoth Lakes
Accessing both the highest point in the contiguous United States (Mount Whitney) and the lowest point in North America (Death Valley), Highway 395 serves as an epic reminder of the Golden State’s stunning landscape diversity. Traverse the open mountain roads as you travel south from Lake Tahoe about 140 miles to Mammoth Lakes, another regional ski resort turned summer stunner.
Most folks stay in the main town of Mammoth Lakes—home of Mammoth Mountain Ski Area—although there are plenty of worthy stops along Highway 395.
The otherworldly Mono Lake, featured on the inside cover of Pink Floyd’s 1975 album Wish You Were Here, is number one on the list. The strange saline lake, with its unusual limestone formations known as tufa towers, gives you an eerily beautiful step outside the ordinary; hike the South Tufa Loop Trail for some trippy views.
A bit farther south, the cute little resort town of June Lake offers a family-friendly atmosphere and postcard-perfect views along its June Lake Loop Trail.
Back in Mammoth, the outdoor patio of Mammoth Brewing Company is an excellent choice for lunch near the town center. Those looking for a more unique dinner option will enjoy the off-the-grid energy of Dos Alas CubaRican Café, a popular local haunt where Cuban and Puerto Rican flavors take over the plate in unexpectedly delicious ways.
Continue late into the night at the friendly dive bar Clocktower Cellar (located beneath Alpenhof Lodge), where you can recount the day’s adventure with a cast of new best friends.
Day 5: Yosemite National Park
You’ll want to get up early for the 100-mile drive from Mammoth into Yosemite National Park’s iconic Yosemite Valley via Tioga Pass (usually open from late May to late October, weather depending), but it’s well worth it.
And despite how many photos you may have seen or how big the crowds are (especially now that Yosemite’s reservations requirement has been dropped), there is no alternative to the feeling of standing in the valley surrounded by towering granite peaks, gazing at the reflection of Half Dome in the water while listening to the soothing sounds of windswept alpine breezes through the trees.
You’re not going to be able to do the entire park in one day, so focus matters. Spend your time in the easily accessible yet wide open Cook’s Meadow Loop section of the park, watching the deer and other wildlife.
If you’re lucky, stay the night at the nearby Ahwahnee hotel. This historic (and historically expensive) property located on park grounds is a bucket list–worthy experience, as is dinner in the landmark Ahwahnee Dining Room (where you may even get a special song from the staff on your birthday.)
Days 6–7: San Francisco and Berkeley
A 4-hour drive through the Central Valley from the peaks of Yosemite to the shores of San Francisco is a perfect way to cap this unique mountain-lake-to-urban-ocean experience. Base yourself in Berkeley for proximity to all that the area has to offer, starting with Berkeley’s own draws, from the funky hippie vibes of Telegraph Avenue to the showstopping collegiate vistas of the University of California’s Greek Theatre.
With limited time, skip the temptation to cram in every major attraction in San Francisco, focusing instead on a few neighborhoods and local hangouts: catching a show at the iconic Fillmore, eating Mission burritos at El Farolito, lounging in the sun with locals at Dolores Park, or browsing the shelves at The Booksmith in the legendarily weird Haight-Ashbury. (Frommer’s 1-day San Francisco itinerary has some more ideas.)
When the sun goes down, the Presidio Yacht Club under the Golden Gate Bridge is a fun, lesser-known alternative to many of the more fancy bars around town, while tropical tiki drinks at SF fave Smuggler’s Cove offer a livelier start to the evening downtown.
Those seeking views of the city paired with vibrant nightlife could do worse than dinner and drinks on the rooftop of the sexy San Francisco Proper Hotel, an ideal spot to toast one last Northern California sunset.