Standing in the rotunda at the top of the Monument at the San Jacinto Battleground in a Houston suburb, I was told that we were in a 570-foot-high tower, erected in 1939. "It was supposed to be lower than the Washington Monument in our nation's capital, which stands at 555 feet, but a mistake was made in the calculation," said the spokesperson, "and it ended up being taller. But, um, well," she said, "This is Texas, after all." It was the first of many jokes about Texas that I was to hear during my trip, all from Texans themselves.
Yes, they sure do have a good sense of humor in the Lone Star State. They also have a great sense of fair-play, at least when it comes to pricing. Traveling the Independence Trail can be downright cheap. It wasn't hard to find dozens of places with inexpensive breakfasts and lunches and moderately priced dinners, or many B&B lodgings where double rooms were well under $75. I'll let you in on my finds at the end of the article. But first, the history and sights you won't want to pass by.
The Independence Trail from Houston to Goliad
This stretch of the trail is bookended by famous battlegrounds: San Jacinto, where victory was won, and Goliad, where ignominious defeat was compounded by treacherous slaughter of the imprisoned Texas soldiers.
San Jacinto Battleground State Historic Site, where one of the most decisive battles in world history took place, is in Deer Park, a suburb of Houston. It's just 22 miles east of downtown Houston off Texas 225 East, then north on Texas 134. Here, you can visit a replica of the cabin where peace was negotiated between Texas and Mexico after the battle. Just to the east is the San Jacinto Monument, containing a small San Jacinto Museum of History at its base, both constructed directly over the battleground site. From the top, you can see clearly the grove of trees (many still standing) where Sam Houston's army of 820 men camped until they were able to catch Mexican General Santa Anna's troops (numbering more than 1,200) off guard, actually taking their siesta, on the afternoon of April 21, 1836.
The Mexicans were routed in 18 minutes, facing Texan troops who came in with the sun at their backs and the wind blowing from the Mexican side, thus hiding their advance in a blinding light and disguising its progress by lack of any sound from their side. Partly to avenge the massacre at The Alamo six weeks earlier, Houston's troops carried on the slaughtering of Mexican forces for hours after the battle was decided, until 630 were dead, 700 taken prisoner. Only nine Texans were killed.
The battle was important not only to Texas, but to the future of the United States. As a result of Texan independence and later annexation by the US, the Mexican War was waged (1846-48). Winning that conflict, in turn, gave the American nation the states of Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, California, Utah and parts of Colorado, Wyoming, Kansas and Oklahoma--almost one-third the present area of our county, nearly a million square miles.
Admission to the monument is free, but you have to pay $3.50 (for adults, less for kids and seniors) to see the 35-minute multi-image presentation of "Texas Forever" in the museum's theater and a nominal fee (usually $1) to ride the elevator. You can also picnic on the site, fish or birdwatch, follow markers tracing the battle, or shop. For information only, phone 800/792-1112 or 281/479-2431.
(Just to set the record straight, "The Yellow Rose of Texas," also known by her real name, Emily Morgan, may have dallied with Santa Anna at some point during the War of Independence, but there is no evidence whatsoever that she was with him in his tent during that fateful siesta at San Jacinto, or that the general was caught with his pants down. The Mexican Army, having no medical orderlies or commissary, had a following of women who cooked, laundered and nursed the ill, and Emily was one such person. So much for racy stories!)
Note: On April 21, 2001, there will be an admission-free ceremony at the site, featuring a reenactment of the battle. The Acting Lt. Governor will speak, the San Jacinto College Band will play, and the period-costumed Texas Army Fife and Drum Corps will play the same song, Will You come to the Bower?, Texan troops played during the battle. Ceremonies start at 10:30, the "battle" begins at 1:30.
This is also the permanent mooring place of the battleship Texas, a star in both world wars. It's painted dark blue, not the traditional battleship gray, as it was when the Navy wanted different ships with different colors, in order, allegedly, to confuse the enemy. A temporary exhibition on African Americans in the Navy, part of a group of rotating displays, can be seen for an indefinite period in the officers' wardroom. Admission to the ship is $5 for adults. Volunteer-guided tours are often on weekends only. Open daily except Christmas. Call 281/479-2431 for information or reservationsl; online at www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/battlesh
Galveston Island
You can linger in Galveston, at the southern end of I-45, if you wish, but the city has nothing to do with Texan Independence aside from being a hiding place for the retreating government during the Runaway Scrape, when men, women and children had to flee the oncoming Mexican Army in 1836. Prior to that, it was a convenient hangout for noted pirate Jean Lafitte in the early 19th century.
However, you might want to take time out for a visit to the Galveston Island State Park (take FM 3005 southwest from the city), one of the many focal points along the Great Texas Coastal Birding Trail, itself a favorite of birdwatchers from around the world. At nearby Surfside in 1973, a 12-hour bird tally set a new US record with 226 species. Velasco, as Surfside was then known, was briefly a Texas Republic capital.
Varner-Hogg Plantation and Westward
The Varner-Hogg Plantation State Historical Park, on FM 2852 north of West Columbia, is a beautiful and well-preserved spot, although to really appreciate its significance, you must go into the details of the miseries inflicted on this sugar Plantation's enslaved workers (1830-1850). Interestingly, at one point during the plantation's operations an African-American woman named Rachel (last name unknown) became de facto mistress of the house during its ownership (1835-1846) by Columbus R. Patton, a widowed white man.
The house and plantation have seen a lot of history since Martin Varner founded the ranch in 1824. Santa Anna was held prisoner here in 1836, for instance. Today, you can take guided tours Wednesdays through Sundays, hike along the trails or picnic. Admission is $4 for adults, less for kids and seniors. Contact them at 979/345-4656.
Ima Hogg, daughter of the gentleman (and later governor of Texas) who bought the property in 1901, donated the buildings and land to the state in 1956. (And no, Ima did not have a sister named Ura--Ima was named for the heroine of a Civil War poem written by her uncle, and her father never dreamed children would laugh at his baby's name for the better part of a century. She never married and lived to 93, dying in 1975.)
Nearby West Columbia was the Texas Republic's first capital in late 1836. In town you can visit a replica of the cabin where delegates met (at 14th and Hamilton streets). In East Columbia, across the Brazos River, many old river houses can still be seen.
Francophiles may want to visit Magnolia Beach in Indianola (take State 35, then 316 out of West Columbia), a formerly busy port town destroyed in the hurricanes of 1875 and 1886. Here, you'll find a large statue of Robert Cavalier, Sieur de La Salle, who thought this was the mouth of the Mississippi back in 1685, and established a colony, Fort St. Louis, here. LaSalle is more famous for his prior exploration (1671-1681) of the Great Lakes, the Mississippi River and the Midwest, as a result of which France claimed half the continent for Louis XIV.
Victoria and Goliad
Victoria (up State 35, then 185 from Indianola) has been settled since 1824, but a blockhouse had been built and settlers carried on cattle ranching as early as the mid-1700s in this area. Just to the west of Victoria on US 59 is the Fannin Battleground State Historical Park (admission $1) where the Mexican Army surrounded Col. James Fannin and 400 volunteers during their retreat from Goliad. Surrendering on March 20, 1836, the men were marched to the Presidio La Bahia at Goliad. The 342 survivors were later executed upon Santa Anna's order.
The Goliad State Historical Park, further west on US 59, is one of the Trail's most important sites, preserving a restored Spanish presidio and two missions, among other memorials. On the park's 178 acres, the twin highlights are the reconstructed 1749 Mission Espiritu Santo and the walled Presidio La Bahia (a National Historic Landmark).
At the mission, you can see demonstrations, often by members of the Arama Native American tribe, of how corn was ground, wool was spun, colored and woven, and how baskets were made. During my visit recently, the jovial padre of the mission, Father Luiz Cazarez-Rueda, ground a lot of corn on his hands and knees and invited audience participation (too much work for me!). Demonstrations are conducted mostly on Sundays, when volunteers are available. In the mission church, children may ring the bell, but not adults. The reason is simple: adults pull too hard and may strain or break the rope. To contact the park, phone 800/792-1112 for information. For mission information, the phone is 361/645-3405, the Web site www.tpwd.state.tx.us. Admission to the park is $2, free for children 12 and under.
The Landlocked Presidio By the Bay
Across the San Antonio River at the imposing Presidio La Bahia, owned by the Catholic Diocese of Victoria. One of North America's few surviving examples of a Spanish colonial crown and church community, it gives you a fascinating insight into how inextricably religion and conquest were linked in the early years of Texas. If you're lucky, you may have the same volunteer guide as I, an intelligent fellow impersonating a member of the Alabama Red Rovers, who swears he has photographed five ghosts hovering above a teepee on the site during an anniversary encampment. This, after all, was the scene of the slaughter of 342 Texas patriots on Santa Anna's direct orders the night of March 24, 1836. Admission $3 for adults, $2.50 aged 60 and over, $1 ages 6 to l11, free age 5 and younger. Phone them at 361/645-3752.
Why is the presidio named La Bahia, "The Bay"? Well, it was once on the Gulf of Mexico but had to move inland, twice. Rather than confuse everybody, the church and army bosses just kept the same name.
A Side Trip to Shiner
The highlight of Shiner, just up Routes 77 and 111 a goodly piece from Victoria, is its Gaslight Theatre, in the town's historic Opera House (1895). A local nun, Sister Michelle Belto, revived the place in 1975 (it was being used as a warehouse at the time). In spring, summer and fall (usually April, August and November), local productions are presented (the last was "A Texas Romance") three times each, twice on weekends and once midweek. The play and dinner (e.g., roast beef) cost $12.50. Phone or fax them at 361/594-3999.
Also in Shiner is the Spoetzl Brewery, Texas' oldest independent brewery and one of the nation's largest specialty beer makers, making five different brands. You can tour on weekdays at no charge. Contact them at 800/5SHINER, 361/594-3383 or at their Web site, www.shiner.com.
A final sightseeing stop could be made at the attractive (and large) Saints Cyril & Methodius Church (1891), listed in the National Register of Historic Places, with both German and Czech inscriptions on its many stained glass windows. Note also the vividly painted walls and ceilings, typical of the Czech tradition, in particular. Learn more about them by phoning 361/594-3836 or visiting their Web site, www.shinercatholicchurch.org.
If you're lucky, you will be in town on July 7, when the community celebrates its birthday. Shiner, which calls itself "the cleanest little city in Texas," has more information on its Web site, www.shinertx.com, or you can phone them at 361/594-4180.
Hotels
In Shiner, consider staying at a group of units called the Old Kasper House, where double rooms go for as little as $59 for a Queen-sized bed, with TV. Most bedrooms have private baths and phones. Lodgings are available in a Victorian House, a Pink Granite House, a Honeymoon Cottage, Marenka's Cottage and a (wait for it) Czech Me Inn. Pricier rooms ($80) have a whirlpool tub. The owners are Hank and Mary Ann Novak. Hank entertains guests with his accordion music on Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings. Find them at 219 Avenue C, Shiner 77984, phone 361/594-4336, Web site www.shinertx.com/kasperhouse/index.htm.
In Victoria, you won't do better than a chain motel, the Holiday Inn, at 2705 E. Houston Highway, phone 800/HOLIDAY or 361/575-0251, fax 575-8362. Facilities include an indoor/outdoor pool, fitness and game rooms, restaurant and bar. Rack rates during high season are about $81 for a double room, but specials are available from time to time, so be sure to inquire.
The Wildflower Inn B&B in Cuero, about 25 miles north of Victoria on US 87, offers double rooms from only $75. Cuero calls itself the "wildflower Capital of Texas," and there is plenty going on during April and May, including specimen exhibits at the DeWitt County Museum, open daily except Easter. The museum's Web site is www.dewittwildflowers.org. Contact the Inn at 407 E. Broadway, Cuero 77954, call toll free 866/275-0250.
To gild the lily and splurge a bit, consider staying in La Bahia Presidio itself. It has a suite carved out of the former officers' lodgings, and known now as The Quarters, sleeping four persons in two bedrooms, going for $150 a night in season. In addition to the bedrooms, there's a spacious living room and a full kitchen, as well as a big private bathroom with shower, no tub. You get a key to the front door, on the outside of the presidio wall, but once in your site, you have access to the entire complex, even at night. (Maybe you'll also see some ghosts!) Phone for rates and reservations at 512/389-8900.
Restaurants
In West Columbia, stop in at either the Feed Store or Sweet P's Eatery, both recommended heartily by locals, for lunches that cost between $4 and $5, including a soft drink. The Feed Store is at 333 West Brazos, phone 979/345-6997. Sweet P's is at 979 West Brazos, phone 979/345-4330.
In Victoria, the Feedlot Steakhouse, out by the airport, specializes in surf as well as turf for lunch and dinner, though it is closed on Sundays. Main courses run from $5.95 to about $12.95 for dinner. Contact them at 361/575-3031.
For old-time décor and homey atmosphere (along with excellent eats), try Rosebud, 102 S. Main, phone 361/573-5111. Breakfast taquitos here are only $1.25 and up, pancakes $2.75, or a two-egg, ham/bacon/sausage choice, with hash browns and Texas Toast (don't ask!) breakfast combo for $4.25. Sandwiches (such as a BLT) start at $3.95, platters (like grilled chicken) at $6.95.
At Kemah's Boardwalk, just south of Houston on the Trail, is a spectacular restaurant, the Aquarium, with New York-style prices. But it's worth a splurge (if you don't want to make do with a hamburger for $6.95 or some soups and appetizers for $4.99) in order to see the huge aquarium (50,000 gallons), three stories high, filled with exotic fish and other marine life. The replica (don't worry, not real) coral reef makes the fish feel at home so that you can view them through four-inch-thick acrylic panels, floor to ceiling. More than 100 species are here. There's another aquarium, this one only 15,000 gallons, inside a winding staircase from the first to upper floors. This is eight feet wide and 35 feet tall. Phone them for reservations, if you feel flush, at 281/334-9010.
More Information?
The Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (usually known as just TPW) has put out a fine and voluminous bunch of pamphlets, maps and brochures on the 119 State Historical and recreational Parks, which you can obtain by phoning toll free 866/488-5500 or 512/389-4800, fax 389-4450. You can also visit their informative Web site, www.tpwd.state.tx.us/independence. Note that there are admission charges to the parks, ranging from $1 to $5 for adults, nothing for children 12 and under.
Please note also that the text above is not a complete description of the Texas Independence Trail, which covers most of the territory between Houston on the east and San Antonio on the west, covering parts of 28 counties. The Trail is marked by arrows and by blue and white signs reading, "Texas Independence Trail."