Water skiing was invented in Minnesota in 1922, but practically nobody knows or cares these days, especially in Central Florida, where Cypress Gardens and its pyramids of athletic skiers have been wowing visitors for years (since 1943). Well, actually, somebody cares, as the skis Ralph Samuelson rode on Lake Pepin north of Minneapolis are on display at the Water Ski Hall of Fame (see below).
Ecotourism and the great outdoors compete with Cypress Gardens for travelers' attention here, openly and with gusto. You can visit a working ranch (from the 1800s) at Kissimmee Cow Camp, near Lake Kissimmee, for instance. There are guided trails at the Lake Region Audubon Nature Center near Winter Haven, allowing you to observe more than 140 species of birds, 26 kinds of butterflies, 21 types of reptiles, and the like. You can also go canoeing in its five rivers, bike along an abandoned railroad corridor converted to a cycling trail or just wander.
Residents of Orlando and visitors there can reach Winter Haven easily on I-4 in less than an hour, though it's more fun to travel along State 17, taking only half an hour longer (if you don't stop en route).
Highlights
You must see Cypress Gardens if only for the four-tier human pyramid on water skis and the rest of the 20 minute show, which is included in your entrance fee. There's a Water Park, "Wings of Wonder" butterfly conservatory, an Island in the Sky aerial ride, and reptiles at Gator Gulch. You can cruise Lake Eloise on a steamboat replica and dine in one of the park's four eateries. The flowers, of course, are what it all started with, so be sure to walk one or more of the several trails meandering through the property. There are concerts--for an extra charge--throughout the year, featuring mostly Golden Oldies (Tommy Dorsey, Guy Lombardo, etc.), and special displays at the "World's Largest Mum Festival," and ditto Poinsettia and Spring Flowers festivals. Prices $34.95 for adults, children 6 to 17 $19.95, under 5, free. You may rent an electric cart to get around in for $32 and you don't have to be disabled to do so. You can water ski yourself, with a professional coach, for just $24.95, free photo included. Locate them at US Highway 27, Winter Haven, phone 863/324-2111 or 800/282-2123, Web site www.cypressgardens.com. Their mail address is PO Box 1, Cypress Gardens FL 33884.
Second only to Cypress Gardens as a favorite tourist target is the Bok Tower Gardens, located on the highest point in the state (298 feet, lower than the highest point on New York's Long Island, which is 350 feet). Constructed by a New York magazine publisher in 1929 (and named for him), the Bok Tower houses ones of the world's greatest carillons. Its 57 bells are played in live recitals daily at 3. If you can't be there at 3, listen for the recorded carillon sounds, at 30-minute intervals throughout the day. In either live or recorded sessions, you'll hear everything from Bach to Broadway. More important are the 128 acres surrounding the tower, planted with beautiful gardens, and housing a colony of wood ducks and 126 other wild bird species. Bok Tower Gardens is on the National Register of Historic Places and is just three miles north of Lake Wales, off County Road 17A (Burns Avenue). Open daily from 8 to 5. Special programs in early 2002 include Panoramic Photographs of Florida through February 28, Jewels of Nature (paintings by Stephen Koury) from March 2 through May 2, and Florida's Treasures (paintings by Thomas Brooks and Jerry Smith) from May 4 through June 28. Admission is $6 for adults, $2 for children ages 5 to 12, under 5 free. Free to everyone Saturdays before 9 AM. Location: 1151 Tower Boulevard, Lake Wales FL 33853, phone 863/676-1408, Web site www.boktowergardens.org.
Bass fishermen head here for large-mouthed versions of the fish, weighing more than eight pounds in many cases. A favorite spot is Mary Holland Park in Bartow, boasting 26 acres with a five-acre lake.
True fans of skimming the waves will want to visit the Water Ski Hall of Fame & Museum. Among other things, you'll see the skis of the "Father of Water Skiing," a fellow who created the sport in Minnesota, of all places, back in 1922. Location: 1251 Holy Cow Road, Polk City 33868, phone 863/324-2472.
If you have enough money ($150) you can take a flying leap out of an airplane going 120 miles per hour at 13,500 feet with the Florida Skydiving Center. Now celebrating 30 years in business, it is open daily and can organize a tandem jump (you and an instructor, together, you on his/her back) or let you dive on your own (if you're already licensed). They will video your performance for an extra $93. Especially for Frommer readers, President Betty Kabeller says, she will throw in a free wedding if you pay for the jump. Don't fret too much--the owner says only about 30 people die out of three million jumps made per year around the country (which works out to one per 100,000). Contact them at 440 S. Airport Road, Lake Wales FL 33853, phone 863/678-1003, fax 678-1409, Web site www.skydivelakewales.com, e-mail info@skydivelakewales.com.
A series of concerts in late winter and spring of each year is the feature of the Bach Festival, ranging from vocal and keyboard concerts through ensembles to major works for full chorus and orchestra. Contact them at 863/324-7535 or go to the Web site, members.aol.com/bachfest/main/index.htm.
Antique lovers should check out the Antique Mall in Winter Haven, with about 20 shops featuring Americana and more. There's another grouping of shops in the town of Lake Alfred, nearby.
Lodgings
At the Budget Inn, prices for two persons in a room start as low as $42 and go to a high of $48. Breakfast is not included. They've been in business for 20 years, in downtown Winter Haven at 401 6th Street NW (State 17), ZIP 33881, phone 863/294-4191 or 800/659-5229, fax 299-5791. Rooms are fairly large, the heated outdoor pool average in size. Each room has cable TV, refrigerator and direct dial phone. Some non-smoking rooms available.
A room for two persons starts at $45 and runs up to a high (in March) of $71 at the Ranch House Motel, halfway between Cypress Gardens and downtown Winter Haven. The fairly large rooms come with choice of two double beds or a king, with double and twin or pill-out couch for larger families. Some rooms are designed for the disabled, all have cable TV, phone 863/and the usual amenities. Hotel facilities include a large heated outdoor pool, miniature golf course, guest laundry, IHOP restaurant and an alternative therapy center. Free coffee in the lobby. Ask for Pedro Rodriguez, the owner. Staff speak German and Polish fluently, they say. 1911 Cypress Gardens Boulevard, Winter Haven 33884, phone 863/324-5994 or 800/366-5996, fax 324-0537, Web site www.ranchhousemotel.com.
Best bargain, I think, is the Lake Roy Beach Inn, right on the water, with a small pool and white sandy beach-plus, boats are for hire from the hotel's own pier. A room for two persons runs from as low as $48 to $68 in the low season, from April through December (when a suite can be had for as little as $68 or $78), and from $86 to $96 in high season (January through March). All 28 rooms are non-smoking and overlook the lake, says owner and manager Ms. Yung, a cheerful lady. They are at 1823 Cypress Gardens Boulevard, Winter Haven 33884, phone 863/324-6320 or 866/557-6994, fax 326-1133, Web site www.lakeroybeachinn.com.
The Best Western Admiral's Inn is one of the, umm, best I've seen in this chain's properties. It's located just across the street from Cypress Gardens, "33 steps," as they like to put it. There are 155 spacious rooms with phones (dataports and voice mail), coffee makers, ironing boards, blow dryers and more. Hotel facilities include an exercise room and business center. A deluxe (make that "expanded") continental breakfast is included in the rates, and there are non-smoking rooms available. There's a big outdoor pool, too, and a fancy Italian restaurant, Antonio's (he will sing for you on request). A room for two (two Queen beds) starts at $75, with King bed $85 in high season, $64.80 and $73, respectively, in low. (When the Cleveland Indians are in spring training nearby during March, prices rise to $95 and $105, respectively, however.) Highly recommended. They are at 5665 Cypress Gardens Boulevard, Winter Haven 33884, phone 863/324-5950 or 800/247-2799, fax 324-2376, Web site www.bestwesternadmiralsinn.com.
Staying in someone's gorgeous home can be fun, especially if you're part of a large group. Large homes with three bedrooms and a pool go for $700 a week, says Sunsplash Vacation Homes in Davenport, just north of Winter Haven and on the road to Orlando. Houses go for as little as $70 a night in low season, and there are 90 units available. They say that grocery shopping and restaurants all lie within a five-minute drive, and golf courses within 15 minutes. Management provides one set of linen and towels. Cleaning is extra, $35 each time. Phone them at 863/324-3591, fax 424-1259, e-mail rentals@sunsplash.com, Web site www.sunsplash.com.
Eating Out
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week is a local favorite, Schack's Bar-B-Que, with hours from 6:30 in the morning to 9 in the evening. An egg sandwich at breakfast runs $2.25, regular two eggs with choice of grits, home fries or hash browns, plus toast or biscuits, $2.45. Luncheon specials start at $5.25 (sliced pork or beef with Cole slaw or beans, choice of potato and garlic bread), sandwiches from $2.25 (grilled cheese), burgers from $3.10. Dinner plates run from $8.40 (sliced pork or beef, half a chicken, etc.). They are at 3000 Cypress Gardens Road, phone 863/324-1537.
The All-Star Grill is a sports bar, true, but there are a couple of quiet corners if you just want to eat well for only a little cash outlay. Sandwiches at lunch start at $4.85 (tuna melt), with fries. For dinner, you could order smothered chicken (mushrooms and onions) or hurricane chicken (mesquite barbecue sauce and melted cheese) at $8.99. They are open daily, at 1300 3rd Street SW, phone 863/299-0782.
Authentically retro (1951, to be exact) is Andy's, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner at low prices. Two eggs with grits or hash brown, choice of bacon, ham or sausage, plus choice of toast or biscuits, cost $2.75 during the 9 to 11 breakfast hours. Burgers at lunchtime cost just $1.40, with fries and Cole slaw $2.65, barbecue sandwiches from $2.35, hot dogs only $1.20. For dinner, you might want a top sirloin steak for $5, with choice of salad, choice of one vegetable, choice of dinner roll or hush puppies. Their banana split is only $2.45! Contact them at 7033 3rd Street SW, phone 863/293-0019. Closed Sundays.
If you like something different, try the Bread Bowl Cafe at the Gift Mill. Open for lunch or dinner only from 11 to 6:30, the place is closed on Tuesdays. "Sandwich meals," including choice of potato, slaw, beans or salad, range from $5.39 to $5.99 and include choice of Cuban, Cordon Blue, Reuben, Philly or Hot Dog. Soup and half a sandwich costs $6.59. You'll find them at 823 US 27 South in Lake Hamilton, phone 863/439-5075. Big signs indicate Gift Mill Factory Outlet, small sign reads Bread Bowl.
At the Bok Tower Gardens, there's a small Carillon Cafe, with hot dogs at $2.25, cheese sandwich at $3.65, salads at $5.25 and up, cookies baked on the premises from 55 cents. Lunch only.
Summing Up
For more information on the Winter Haven area, contact
Central Florida Visitors & Convention Bureau
PO Box 8040
Cypress Gardens FL 33884
Toll-free 800/828 POLK (same as 800/828-7655)
Local 863/298-7565
Fax 863/298-7564
Web site www.sunsational.org