The Alps weren't only good for slowing the progress of Germanic hordes invading the ancient Roman Empire (or your summer rail trip between Italy and Munich, for that matter), the mountains were also the birthplace downhill skiing. Here are four destinations in four countries where racing down an trail is just as much about delving into history as indulging in an Alpine thrill ride.
Cortina d'Ampezzo, Italy
Cortina is Italy's leading ski resort, and it lives up to its reputation with eight exceptional ski areas that are easily accessible from town. Two of the best, Tofana-Promedes and Faloria-Tondi, are accessible by funiculars that lift off from the edges of town, as are the novice slopes at Mietres. You can enjoy these facilities fairly economically with one of the comprehensive Dolomiti Superski passes that provide unlimited skiing (including all chairlift and funicular fees, as well as free shuttle bus service to and from Cortina and the ski areas) at all eight of Cortina's ski areas and those at 10 outlying resorts.
Where to Stay: Lodging during the winter is expensive everywhere, so why not go for the best? Miramonti Majestic Grand Hotel ().
St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria
The snow in this area is perfect for skiers, and the total lack of trees on the slopes makes the situation ideal. The ski fields of St. Anton stretch over some 16 sq. km (6 sq. miles). Beginners stick to the slopes down below, and for the more experienced skiers there are the runs from the Galzig and Valluga peaks. A cableway will take you to Galzig (2,092m/6,860 ft.), where there's a self-service restaurant. You go from here to Vallugagrat (2,649m/8,685 ft.), the highest station. The peak of the Valluga, at 2,812m (9,220 ft.), commands a panoramic view. St. Christoph (see later in this chapter) is the mountain annex of St. Anton.
Where to Stay: Located in a quiet residential section named Oberdorf, Hotel Kertess (www.kertess.com) is an address jealously guarded by its devotees. Because it's located in a residential neighborhood away from the town center, the hotel runs a shuttle bus service to St. Anton and its ski areas.
Read more about Arlberg or or learn about some of the other great ski destinations in Austria.
Megève, France
The area is home to The French Ski School, 176 rue de la Poste (tel. 04-50-21-00-97), one of Europe's foremost, with 300 instructors for adults and 32 for children. Classes include the complete French skiing method, modern ski techniques, acrobatic skiing, cross-country skiing, and ski touring. A similar option is the Ecole de Ski Internationale, 273 Rue de la Poste (tel. 04-50-58-78-88). Facilities include a Chamois gondola, which takes skiers to the mountain from the center of town; the Rocharbois cable car, linking the ski areas of Mont d'Arbois and Rochebrune; and a gondola and chairlift at the Rochebrune Massif. Skiing here appeals to both intermediates and experts.
Where to Stay: Designed like an enlarged chalet, Le Fer à Cheval (www.feracheval-megeve.com) is the finest hotel in the center of the village.
Grindelwald, Switzerland
This is one of the few resorts in the Bernese Oberland that occasionally mistakes itself for a genuine city rather than an artificial tourist creation. It offers a healthy dose of restaurants, bars, discos, and, unfortunately, traffic. There are a lot of affordable accommodations here -- it's not nearly as snobby as some of the other resorts. Many skiers use it as a base camp for long-haul excursions to the slopes of First, Männlichen, and Kleine Scheidegg. From Grindelwald, the resorts of Wengen and Mürren are accessible by cog railway and/or cable car (no traffic!).
Where to Stay: Belvedere (www.belvedere-grindelwald.ch/index.php?lang=en) is a vastly renovated government-rated four-star hotel dating from 1904 that can claim the most spectacular view in Grindelwald. Its luxurious public rooms include a fireplace and comfortable armchairs.
Read more about Grindelwald or learn about some of the other great skiing destinations in Switzerland.