For as long as I can remember (with the exception of one anomalous situation), Killington (tel. 800/621-MTNS; www.killington.com) has been the Northeast's first ski area to crank up its lifts and the last to end the season. This central Vermont behemoth, with snowmaking on more than half of its 1,200 skiable acres, is aiming for a November 16 opening, assuming there's a period of below-freezing temperature before.
From a one-lift area in 1959, Killington has ballooned into a giant by any measure, not only in terms of acreage but also in number of lifts (32), uphill capacity (over 43,000 per hour), trails (200), length of longest trail (Juggernaut at 6.7 languorous miles), base-to-summit vertical (3,050 feet), steepest run (The Outer Limits, dropping 1,200 vertical feet in just half-a-mile) and number of separate peaks (seven). At 4,235 feet, namesake Killington Peak is Vermont's second highest. Huge and complicated, Killington skis like half-a-dozen areas rolled into one. Since getting your bearings can be tough, connect with a host-guided meet-the-mountain tour if you can.
Route 4 cuts across mid-Vermont. From there, the classic approach is via the fabled Killington access road past lodging properties, stores, restaurants and nightspots to the SnowShed beginner area on the left, the family-oriented Rams Head sector on the right, and the Killington base at the head of the road. Snowdon is sort of tucked in between Killington Peak and Rams Head, with the section between Killington and Snowdon offering some of the gnarliest steeps. Bear Mountain, reached by its own challenging access road, boasts Killington's most demanding mogul skiing and its best spring skiing scene.
The Skyeship Base Station, directly along Route 4, is the base area of choice for anyone squirrelly about mountain driving. The Skyeship gondola, one of three with blissfully heated cabins, takes off from there to the summit of Skye Peak, a largely intermediate section and therefore some of Killington's most popular parcels. The tradeoff for easy access and comfortable uphill transport is long lift lines, especially on weekends. Sunrise Mountain, Killington's "far east," is a small beginner pod.
Killington's mega-terrain actually comprises two separate ski areas -- the aforementioned main lift/trail complex and smaller (but not small) Pico Mountain. Several resort owners have contemplating physically connecting them, but as of 2007-08, that has not happened. Though no longer independent, Pico celebrates its 70th anniversary with a bargain season pass: $399 for adults, versus $1,149 (through October 9) for an unlimited Killington/Pico pass. Viewed one way, Pico will operate only Thursdays through Mondays (seven days during holidays). Viewed another way, Pico's 48 runs are nearly one quarter of Killington's total, and the 750-odd bucks saved can buy some $74 one-day lift tickets if you wish to ski on a Tuesday or Wednesday.
Getting There
Visitors from the Northeast (whether weekenders or vacationers) often drive (Boston, 150 miles; Albany, 110 miles; New York, 250 miles). From New York, other options are Amtrak's Ethan Allen Express (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com) between Penn Station and Rutland 16 miles), and Adventure Northeast's shuttle (tel. 917/861-1800; www.adventurenortheast.com). Vans or buses, sized according to passenger demand, depart from Manhattan -- daily if required. Friday northbound and Sunday return are the most popular. Fare is $79 one-way; $149 roundtrip. The most economical air service is to Manchester, NH, Southwest (tel. 800-I-FLY-SWA; www.southwest.com). Once at the resort, Killington's shuttle system will get you around.
Accommodations
Lodging options abound at and near the resort and as far as Rutland, including townhouses, condominiums, hotels, country inns and motels. Killington's reservations service (tel. 800/621-MTNS; www.killington.com) can book them all. Package prices will be available in September each year.
Slope Stats
Lifts: Gondolas (3 heated express gondolas), 12 quad chairlifts (6 express), 6 triples, 4 doubles, 7 surface lifts; uphill capacity, 43,446 riders per hour
Trails: 200 (25% easier, 35% more difficult, 40% most difficult)
Terrain Parks: 3
Superpipe: 1
Vertical: 3,050 feet
Skiable Acres: 1,215 (snowmaking on 752 acres; 141 acres of tree skiing)
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