Planning Your Trip
With the euro getting more expensive by the minute, an increasing number of tourists are making for the cheaper horizons of Southern Italy, and they are welcome by an exuberant local tourist industry, with new gourmet restaurants, top-notch modern hotels, and charming B&Bs opening every month. The local administration is also keeping up its efforts and the new Unico Campania 3T transportation pass is a good example: valid 3 days, it gives you access to all public transportation to and within all major destinations in the region, including the Amalfi Coast, the islands, Naples, Salerno, Paestum, Caserta, Avellino, and Benevento, as well as the Alibus airport shuttle from Capodichino airport to Naples for €20 ($30).
Naples
New year, new hotels, new restaurants. Lodging and food offerings multiply in ebullient Naples. We love a new addition in the moderate-price range (a blessing with the current exchange rates), right in Chiaia, some 30 feet from Piazza del Plebiscito: MH hotel defines itself as a "design" hotel, and offers rooms that are not large, but are done in a modern sleek décor, with pastel colored walls and carpeting in muted tones, and bathrooms with extra-large showers and extra-pleasant rain shower heads. The superior rooms are the way to go, with Jacuzzi tubs in each bath. Rates range from€200-€220 ($300-$330) for a double (Via Chiaia 245; tel. 081-19571576; www.mhhotel.it). Another pleasant addition for those traveling by air, Charming International Hotel is a new hotel located five minutes from Capodichino airport, and a great option for those who are planning to rent a car from the airport and explore the region. Far from being the usual soulless chain, this is a traditional rural casale (a farm house) which has been finely restored and now offers comfort and charm, with nicely decorated carpeted rooms (Viale Umberto Maddalena 35; tel. 081-2311004; www.charminginternational.it).
We could not wait to share our latest finding among the restaurants in the historic district: Palazzo Petrucci (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 4; tel. 081-5524068) is a gourmet restaurant with very affordable prices. The setting is picturesque -- the restaurant is housed in the former stables of the palazzo -- and the service and approach is modern.
If you are planning an extensive visit of Naples' archeological sites, you'll be happy to know of the newly introduced pass: the biglietto integrato circuito flegreo includes the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Naples, Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei in Baia, Zona Archeologica di Baia, Anfiteatro Flavio, Serapeo, and scavi in Pozzuoli, and Scavi di Cuma for €8.50 ($13) and is valid three days, a great saving. Note that the Parco Archeologico Terme di Baia in Campi Flegrei as well as the Cappella Palatina inside the Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino) in Naples have closed for restorations.
Pompeii & Herculaneum: the Vesuvian Archaeological Era
The Terme Suburbane in Pompeii is closed for restoration, and the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum is still closed. Also, Archeobus service in the Campi Flegrei has been suspended until further notice.
Campania's Well-Kept Secrets: Caserta & Avellino
In Caserta, a welcome addition to the city's accommodation, H2C Hotel Caserta is about to open its doors just across from Caserta's Reggia (Piazza Vanvitelli 12; tel. 0823-355520; www.h2c.it). A new hotel of the Italian chain ClassHotel, it features streamlined elegant design décor, state-of-the art tiled bathrooms with shower, fitness center and restaurant.
We also recommend the newly introduced silk bus in Caserta, a guided tour to the Belvedere di San Leucio departing from the Reggia. You can visit the historic silk manufacturing plant with the original looms as well as the showroom where you can buy the luxury products that are still being manufactured. Call Arethusa (tel. 0823-448084; www.arethusa.net) or Reggia Travel (tel. 0823-354433) for reservations; the tour costs €7 ($10.50).
In Avellino, a new gourmet restaurant, Il Patriota (Via V. De Napoli 71, Valle, Avellino; tel. 082-533991), has opened its doors. Run by two young friends, it is away from the historic district, and not far from the main post office. The chef has strengthened his skills at another great restaurant in the region, Il Gastronomo, in the little town of Montemarano (tel. 0827-67009), which we also recommend. The daily menu is based on market offerings; we loved the spelt and barley risotto with porcini mushrooms and black truffle, and the lamb with wild fennel and balsamic vinegar.
If you are exploring the surrounding countryside, you can also consider stopping at the Certosa di San Giacomo (Via Nazionale 1, 83023 Lauro; tel. 081-8240932; www.certosasangiacomo.it) This hotel is housed in an old monastery (originally from the 12th century) which was turned into palatial villa in the early 19th century. Public spaces include a 40 hectare park with swimming pool, long panoramic garden-terraces, as well as a delightful cloister and a 17th century church. Guest rooms are large, many with fireplaces and are comfortable with modern, functional furnishings and carpeted floors. Bathrooms are good-sized and modern. A double runs about 180€ ($270) with buffet breakfast.