Tourism in Argentina is booming. The country is a terrific bargain for most travelers. The peso is still weak, almost 3 to a dollar, and with the euro even stronger, Europeans are flocking here in droves. Hotels, restaurants, and national parks are full of Spaniards and Italians. Increasingly, however, there are "foreign visitor" rates and "resident" rates (especially at hotels and national parks), which can be frustrating for the traveler on a budget. Hotel rates are frequently posted in U.S. dollars, though Argentines get unadvertised lower rates in pesos. Beware of hotels charging for sundries in U.S. dollars, which can be confusing, since the $ sign is also used for pesos. (Just remember that if it's in U.S. dollars, the $ sign should be followed with USD, for example: $USD.) It never hurts to always double-check what currency is being used. A bottle of water from your minibar may cost as much as $4.50. Make sure that it means pesos, not dollars, if you're watching your budget!
Foreign visitors pay three times as much as Argentine residents to enter national parks and some other sights. The only place where prices are usually strictly in pesos are the restaurants (except for a few hotel restaurants), where everything is in pesos and, therefore, quite affordable.
Flights to Argentina are so full that more airlines are adding service. Delta (www.delta.com) began daily service from Atlanta to Buenos Aires in December 2004. United Airlines (www.ual.com) began flying a daily flight from Chicago in November 2004, in addition to the daily arrival from Washington Dulles. And Aerolíneas Argentinas (www.aerolineasargentinas.com) is expanding rapidly -- adding more flights from New York, Miami, Sydney, and Auckland. In late 2005, Aerolíneas Argentinas will launch the first nonstop flights from the U.S. West Coast to Buenos Aires. Flights will depart from Los Angeles International airport two or three times a week.
Flying is the most efficient way of getting around the world's eighth-largest country. Aerolíneas Argentinas remains the leading carrier after gobbling up LAPA's routes (LAPA went bankrupt and shut down in 2003). Aerolíneas is currently upgrading its domestic fleet after completely overhauling its international aircraft. Newer Boeing 737s are being added throughout 2005. Southern Winds (www.sw.com.ar) is an excellent domestic carrier that is adding more routes and frequency every few months. American Falcon (www.americanfalcon.com.ar) flies older planes but offers some of the cheapest last-minute fares from Buenos Aires to Bariloche, Salta, Iguazú, and Puerto Madryn (gateway to the Peninsula Valdes).
Buenos Aires
Travelers will find that Buenos Aires continues to be a bargain, now that the peso has stabilized at about 3 to the U.S. dollar. However, since the world has taken notice of Buenos Aires and her charms, tourism has boomed, without hotel construction keeping pace. Because of that, you will find that some hotels that were bargains in previous years have now gone up a notch in category as their prices rose. We have, however, included many new and previously unlisted three-star hotels and hostels to make sure you don't spend any more than you want to while in Buenos Aires. Restaurants continue to open at a breakneck pace in the Palermo Viejo neighborhood, so there will always be new places to eat. Plus, new museums are also opening throughout the city, so it's a very exciting time to be there.
A brand new tower has opened for the Crowne Plaza PanAmericano (Carlos Pelligrini 551; tel. 11/4348-5115; www.crowneplaza.com), more than doubling its capacity. This hotel, on Avenida 9 de Julio overlooking the Obelisco, has one of the best locations in the city. Its rooftop gym, in a glass box on the roof of the tower, gives the impression of exercising or swimming in mid-air, and has to be seen to be believed. The Four Seasons Hotel (Posadas 1086/88; tel. 11/4321-1200; www.fourseasons.com) is upgrading its already luxurious property, completing a conversion from being a Hyatt until just a few years ago. Along with room renovations, the spa has been completely rebuilt, using a native Argentine theme. To keep pace with all the tourists coming in, many locals have decided to open their own minihotels and hostels. Among them is Palermo Viejo's Casa Jardin (Charcas 4416; tel. 11/4774-8783; www.casajardinba.com.ar). It was opened as an arts hotel and often has exhibits by local artists as well as the owner herself, Nerina Sturgeon.
The peso crisis has lead to an explosion in new places to dine out and for young Argentine chefs to test out their skills. Palermo Viejo and nearby Las Cañitas continue to be the main neighborhoods for these new restaurants, many of which continue to pay homage to beef, the main ingredient in any Argentine dish. El Estanciero (Báez 202; tel. 11/4899-0951) in Las Cañitas offers an alternative to some of the more chic locations surrounding it. It's all about the beef here, arguably the best in the neighborhood, and there is rarely a crowd. A great bargain choice with wonderful beef is Juana M (Carlos Pellegrini 1535; tel. 11/4326-0462), near the La Recova area of Recoleta, where Avenida 9 de Julio hits Libertador. Here, for less than $5, you get something from the parrilla, a drink, and unlimited access to the salad bar, all surrounded by some of the city's most expensive real estate.
Maybe it is hard for visitors to Buenos Aires to believe, but it took more than 50 years after Evita's death for Argentina to finally have a museum in her honor. The Museo Evita (Calle Lafinur 2988; tel. 11/4807-9433; ievaperon@uol.com.ar) is located in a Palermo mansion where she once opened a halfway house for single mothers. See her hats, dresses, shoes, and many other personal effects and items from the era here. Be aware that if renovations continue on schedule, 2005 may be the last year that you can see a show or visit the inside of the spectacular Teatro Colón (Calle Libertad 621; tel. 11/4378-7100; www.teatrocolon.org.ar) until 2008. An intense renovation is ongoing, and will eventually move to the interior of the theater, meaning shows and visits will be impossible.
Mendoza
Mendoza's newest hotel and the city's best bargain is the elegant and affordable Hotel Argentino, Espejo 455, 5500 Mendoza (tel. 261/405-6300; www.argentino-hotel.com). Opened in mid-2004, it commands a perfect location facing the Plaza de la Independencia, steps from the ritzy Park Hyatt at a third of the price: Doubles go for $50.
The Wine Country
New in 2005 are Familia Zuccardi's (tel. 261/441-0000; www.familiazuccardi.com) "Come To Harvest" wine excursions from February to April. For $67, you'll get a crash course on grape harvesting followed by 2 hours out in the fields picking grapes. Lunch and a tasting follow.
Club Tapiz, Pedro Molina Ruta 60, Maipu (tel. 261/490-0202; www.newage-hotels.com), opened in 2004 and is the most elegant place to stay in the Wine Country. There's a pristine pool, a spa, and a fantastic restaurant. Rates begin at $77 for a double.
Cordoba
The city's newest hotel opened in 2004 and commands a great downtown location. The King David, General Paz 386, 5000 Córdoba (tel. 351/570-3528; www.kingdavid.com.ar), is an all-suite hotel with fully equipped kitchens, spacious bathrooms, and living rooms with sofas. Rates are $60 for a double.
Salta
Salta's newest museum opened in November 2004. The Museo de Arqueológia de Alta Montaña (Andean Archaeological Museum), Mitre 77 (tel. 387/437-0499), was built to house the three incredibly preserved 500-year-old mummies that were found buried in the ice on a nearby volcanic mountain. The locals have taken to affectionately calling it the "museo de las momias," although the mummies are still not on display. They soon will be. Until then, there's a good documentary showing the amazing discovery.
The Casa Real Hotel, Mitre 669, 4400 Salta (tel. 387/421-5675; www.hotelcasareal.com.ar), is Salta's newest downtown hotel. Opened in 2004, it has spacious, modern rooms and large-screen TVs. There's a nice indoor pool and a good restaurant, too. Doubles begin at $87.
The House of Jasmines, Camino al Encon, La Merced Chica, 4407 Salta (tel./fax 387/497-2002; www.houseofjasmines.com), was opened in late 2004 by American actor Robert Duvall and his Argentine wife, who own this gorgeous farmhouse a short drive from the center of Salta. Surely destined to be featured in some of the world's leading design magazines, this hotel gives you a taste of estancia living without compromising on luxury. The antique-filled rooms with four-poster beds, plush mattresses, and fluffy duvets are filled with roses and jasmine (from the farm's private gardens) prior to a guest's arrival. The talented chef uses local ingredients to create delicious, healthy meals served on the pristine patio overlooking 120 hectares (300 acres) of lush grounds.
What may very well be Northwest Argentina's most talked-about restaurant opened in Salta in 2004, serving Andean cuisine with modern flair. Jose Balcarce, Mitre and Necochea (tel. 387/421-1628), is where you can sample llama carpaccio or llama filets in an elegant, refined setting. Main courses begin at $6.
The Argentine Lake District
San Carlos de Bariloche's newest hotel is the breathtaking Design Suites, Av. Bustillo Km 2.5 (tel. 11/4814-8700 for reservations in Buenos Aires; www.designsuites.com), opened in 2004. If you stay here, expect minimalist luxury, attentive service, and a hip and happening youngish clientele hailing from Europe and Brazil. There's a fantastic spa and a great restaurant here, too. Doubles begin at $125.
Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego
The Southern Hemisphere summer (Dec-Mar) of 2005 has proven to be a record-breaker for visitor arrivals in this blessedly beautiful area of Patagonia. Flights have been so heavily booked that Aerolíneas Argentinas (tel. 0810/222-86527; www.aerolineasargetinas.com) has just announced the addition of twice-weekly 747-400 (the largest aircraft flying now) flights nonstop from Ezeiza to El Calafate. This is the first time Aerolíneas has used their largest wide-body jets on a domestic route. Not only are the flights full, but hotels are heavily booked, too, so I advise making your reservations as early as possible. Avoid Patagonia from mid-December to early March (when the hordes arrive), and come instead in the relative calm of October or November, or from mid-March to early May.
Finally, a deluxe accommodations option in Chalten. Opening in mid-2005 is the intimate Los Cerros (tel. 11/4814-3934; www.loscerrosdelchalten.com), a small boutique inn built by the owners of the celebrated Los Notros (which overlooks Perito Moreno Glacier). Expect rustic luxury and exquisite service. Two-, 3-, and 4-day packages include your choice of treks, hikes, and 4*4 rides, in addition to gourmet meals.
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