Instead of opening new resorts and restaurants, many islands of The Bahamas spent a good part of 2005 recovering from massive hurricane damage in 2004. By the time of your visit, all the properties should be up and running again at peak capacity -- that is, unless another fierce hurricane strikes, which is always a possibility in the autumn season. The biggest development this year puts one more thing in your suitcase: Your passport. Don't forget it. Under new Homeland Security regulations, Americans traveling to The Bahamas must show passports starting December 31, 2005, upon their return to the United States. Those returning to Canada will have to show passports starting December 31, 2006. A driver's license or a birth certificate will not be acceptable.
Here are the other changes that might affect your vacation decisions.
New Providence Island (Nassau/Cable Beach)
One of the most famous hotels on the island, South Ocean Golf and Beach Resort, has closed until further notice. The property had grown both tired and stale. Look for future developments to be announced.
On Cable Beach, and bowing to pressure mainly from Britain and Canada, Sandals Royal Bahamian Hotel (tel. 800/SANDALS; www.sandals.com) was forced to change its former antigay discrimination policy and now admits "any couple in love," regardless of sexual preference.
Also on Cable Beach, the flashy megaresort of Wyndham Nassau Resort & Crystal Palace Casino (tel. 800/222-7466; www.wyndham.com) continues its decline, drawing fire from many guests, who find the bedrooms and general maintenance disappointing. Some clients continue to be faithful to it, whereas others are looking elsewhere for a place to spend their vacation dollars.
As for dining, many old-time favorites -- long a mainstay of the culinary scene (including, for example, Sun And . . .) -- have bit the dust, but others have emerged. The most recent opening that impressed us was Provence at Old Town Sandyport (tel. 242/327-0985), bringing the Mediterranean cuisine of sunny Provence to Cable Beach. Dishes are prepared with superb simplicity, and first-rate ingredients are used.
Paradise Island
Expect big things from Atlantis Paradise Island Resort & Casino (tel. 800/ATLANTIS; www.atlantis.com). Work continues throughout 2005 and 2006 for a massive expansion, including a 600-room all-suite luxury hotel and a 400-unit condo hotel. During the life of this edition, Atlantis is expected to open a branch of the world-renowned Nobu chain, funded in part by actor Robert DeNiro. And that's not all. Atlantis has purchased a former Paradise Island hotel -- Club Med -- and has closed the property for future development.
The big shakeup in the hotel scene for 2005 was when the Sheraton Grand closed in 2004 and blossomed again as the all-inclusive Hotel Riu Paradise Island (tel. 888/666-8816; www.riu.com). It's basically the same beachfront hotel with minor improvements, but now it's a one-stop destination, offering all meals and entertainment.
Grand Bahama Island (Freeport)
After a major building boom, this island suffered massive damage in the storms of 2004 and spent most of 2005 restoring already existing properties instead of opening new ones. Hardest hit was the most famous hotel on the island, the Crowne Plaza Golf Resort & Casino at the Royal Oasis (tel. 800/545-1300; www.theroyaloasis.com). This mammoth resort limped through much of 2005, not operating at full capacity, but is expected to be fully operational by the time of your visit in 2006.
Berry Islands
In the remote and little visited Berry Islands, known only to the discerning few (often yachties), there is activity on sleepy Great Harbour Cay. The long-running Great Harbour Cay Yacht Club & Marina will be closed for most -- or all -- of 2006 as it's turned into a more luxurious and elegant resort. Check its status before heading here. But don't worry if you're planning to visit soon: Those wanting to experience the special charm of Great Harbour Cay can book into accommodations through Tropical Diversions Resort (tel. 800/342-7256; www.tropicaldiversions.com), which isn't a real resort but a booking agency for a series of beach villas, town houses, and private homes. These often elegant living quarters can be rented when the owners have returned to their mainland homes.
The Abacos
At Marsh Harbour, a yachting center and chief port in the Abacos, the culinary news centers around the opening of the Conch Crawl (tel. 242/367-4444), at the ever-popular Conch Inn. Serving the resort's best Bahamian cuisine, this new restaurant was immediately adopted by the visiting yacht set as their favorite place to dine on local food such as fresh fish, especially grouper and conch.
Harbour Island
If you want to visit Harbour Island, off the "mainland" of Eleuthera, it is now easier than ever, providing you are already in Nassau. From Potters Cay Dock in Nassau, Bahamas Fast Ferries (tel. 242/323-2166; www.bahamasferries.com) takes you to remote Harbour Island in just 2 hours transit. The ferry company operates a speedy 177-seat catamaran.
The Exumas
George Town, the capital of this mini-archipelago, is becoming the kayaking center of The Bahamas. You can rent kayaks at Starfish Activity Center (tel. 242/336-3033; www.kayakbahamas.com) and set out on your adventure, including taking time out for snorkeling on deserted beaches. Another good outfitter is Ecosummer Expeditions (tel. 800/465-8884; www.ecosummer.com), whose staff is skilled at guiding you through the government-protected nature reserve, Exumas Cays National Land and Sea Park.
Long Island
Just south of the Tropic of Cancer, Chez Pierre (tel. 242/338-8809; www.chezpierrebahamas.com) has been opened by two Canadian expats, Pierre and Anne Laurence. Set on 3.2 hectares (8 acres), their complex consists of comfortable bungalows. Pierre is a first-class chef, and his cuisine -- a combination of French, Italian, and Caribbean -- is the finest on this sleepy island.
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