In Barcelona, the slopes of Montjuic, site of the 1992 Olympics, are in the throes of a big planting spree at the time of writing (March 2007), and the shrubs and flowers sown at the Jardi de la Primavera (Spring Garden) on its easterly ridge above Poble Sec are due to be in full bloom by May 2007. The greening of the city continues from here way beyond Port Vell and the Vila Olímpica to the far eastern end of the city's beaches where the Parc de la Pau (Park of Peace) was laid out at the end of 2006 beside the Platja Nova (New Beach) and between the Forum's stylish yachting marina and the Besòs River. The park's array of palms, bushes and lawns are a brave attempt to counter the chimney stacks and ugly metal structures of neighboring industrial Sant Adrià de Besòs at the terminus of the modern tren ligero tram line.
Planning Your Trip
In the fall of 2006, Spain's National Railway Network, Renfe (tel. 904/24-02-02; www.renfe.es), introduced a new half hourly train service (line 10) connecting the airport with Sants railway station in central Barcelona. Trains now run from the airport to Sants between 6am and 11:44pm and from Sants to the airport between 5:25am and 11:55pm. A one-way ticket costs 3.95 €.
Getting Around
From January 1, 2007, travel prices on the combined Barcelona subway (metro), tram (tren ligero), bus and FGC cercanías or rodalies network (suburban railway line) rose to 1.25 € for a single ticket and 6.90 € for a combined ten-in-one ticket.
If you feel like visiting Madrid but don't want to fly, the link is becoming easier and quicker every year. Just half a decade ago the 500 kilometer trip took over seven hours. As of the end of 2007, the new AVE service operating direct non-stop between Madrid and Barcelona is scheduled to do the trip in a stunning two and a half hours, reaching speeds of just under 300 kph. A second station just northeast of central Barcelona at Sagrera -- proposed site of a Frank Gehry twin project of office blocks and a Mobility Museum -- is also due to be finished at the end of 2007 to further accommodate travelers using this new service. Check Renfe's website, www.renfe.es, for up-to-date timetables and prices.
In April 2007 a final extension of the funicular ride up from the city is due to be completed at the summit of Montjuic, where you'll step out of a brand new terminus right next to the 17th-century hilltop castle. The walk up the cliffside pathway amid the pines from the current Jardi del Mirador stop will no longer be necessary if you're feeling lazy. Note that this funicular route is from the Parallel metro stop between Poble Sec and Raval and not to be confused with the teleféric cable car trip that rises high above the harbor from port-side Barceloneta and ends at the gardens of the enviably located Hotel Miramar lower down Montjuic Hill.
Where to Stay
The Onix Liceo (Calle Nou de la Rambla 36; tel. 93/481-64-41) opened in the lower part of Raval district in March. Located just around the corner from its sister hotel the Onix Rambla (Rambla Catalunya 24; www.theonixramblahotel.com), the Onix Liceo provides tasteful minimalist decor with satellite TV and free wi fi connections in each of its 45 rooms.
A further innovative highlight in the bustling heart of La Rambla is the majestic H 1898 hotel (La Rambla 109; tel. 93/552-95-52; www.barcelonahotel1898.com), located in a fine converted 19th-century building that was tastefully and colorfully renovated in late 2006. Accommodation ranges from "classic" peaceful rooms (at the rear) to sumptuous "colonial suites" with their own pool, jacuzzi and private terrace overlooking the famed paseo.
Food Markets
Not so very long ago Barcelona's traditional covered markets were gritty down-to-earth foodie bastions where you could browse for colorful Mediterranean fare amid a heady blend of smells and noises. Today -- in keeping with the city's switched-on, cutting edge image -- the city's markets are being smartened, themed, de-odorized and gentrified one by one. A typical recent major renovation was in 2005 at Sant Pere barri's Santa Caterina Market (tel. 93/319-57-40; www.mercatsantacaterina.net), which now also houses one of the city's trendiest new wave eating spots: the eclectic Cuines Santa-Caterina (tel. 93/268-99-18).
In March 2007, a similar transition took place in the once solidly working class area of Barceloneta, when its rejuvenated central Barceloneta Market (tel. 93/221-64-71) re-opened after months of construction work to eager queues of local shoppers. While still retaining the original 1884 structure designed by Antoni Rivera i Trias, the remodeled version -- planned by Josep Mias -- boasts a gleaming converted interior of bright tiled floors, pristine counters where genial ladies serve you everything from aubergines to anglerfish, and a number of elegant delicatessens that carry vintage olive oils, balsamic vinegars, and tins of truffles and foie gras. A step ahead of Santa Caterina, it's the first city market to provide two quality restaurants, one of which -- the Lluçanès -- is helmed by the 1 star Michelin awarded chef Àngel Pasqual.
The face of Barcelona's markets is undoubtedly changing. Next in line for renovation at press time is the Sarrià Market (tel. 93/203-02-91), a covered market in residential Sarrià high up at the back of town.
Shopping
The much loved Hibernian bookshop (tel. 93/217-47-96; www.hibernian-books.com) -- whose selection of English language books from hardback classics to paperback Dan Brown and J. K. Rowling holiday reading is probable the largest in Spain -- moved at the end of 2006 from its Carrer Pere Serafi address in trendy Gràcia just round the corner into Carrer Montseny at number 17.
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