Planning Your Trip To Boston
Good news if you're driving to Boston from the north: FastLane (Massachusetts) and EZPass (New York, among other states) transponders now work at Maine and New Hampshire tolls.
Free wireless Internet is busting out all over. To find a hospitable hotspot, check an online locator (I like www.wififreespot.com/mass). Pay locations are proliferating, too; check ahead (try https://mobile.yahoo.com/wifi) for details.
Whether you're a trendsetter or a wannabe, you have to tip your hat to the tireless sleuths at Daily Candy (www.dailycandy.com). Sign up for the daily e-mail newsletter or visit the website to check the archives for the latest in shopping, fashion, dining, and more.
New England's shellfish suffered one of the worst outbreaks of red tide in recent memory in 2005. The danger -- from a toxin that afflicts humans but is harmless to its shellfish carriers -- has passed, making it perfectly safe to pig out on fried clams.
Getting To Know Boston
MBTA Silver Line bus service to and from Logan Airport and South Station is up and running. For just $1.25, passengers zip through the Ted Williams Tunnel and right to their terminals. This is an excellent option for travelers whose destination is downtown or Cambridge (on the Red Line from South Station).
Where To Dine
The South End landmark Bob the Chef's Jazz Café has a new name: Bob's Southern Bistro. It has a new website (www.bobssouthernbistro.com), but the old one (www.bobthechefs.com) works, too.
The projected opening date for the new Ruth's Chris Steak House, 45 School St., in Old City Hall (tel. 800/544-0808; www.ruthschris.com), is now October 2005.
What To See & Do
The pressure is off: The Boston CityPass (www.citypass.com) is now good for 1 year (rather than 9 days) from the date of purchase, becoming an even better deal.
Tours of Fenway Park no longer definitely include a walk on the warning track; visitors may venture out to the Green Monster only when the field is available.
Boston by Boat (tel. 617/633-9240) is a new weekend-only water-taxi service that serves eight stops around the harbor at a bargain price. City Water Taxi vessels connect locations in Charlestown, downtown, and South Boston; an all-day pass costs $10 for adults, $5 for children 6-12, free for children under 6. If you're not sightseeing, the one-way fare is $6 for adults, $3 for children. Show your ticket to receive discounts at local businesses and attractions (see the website for specifics). Note that this is not a cheap way to get to the airport -- all of the stops are around the Inner Harbor. The environmental advocacy group Save the Harbor Save the Bay (tel. 617/451-2860; www.savetheharbor.org) coordinates the summer-only service.
The renovation of Christopher Columbus Waterfront Park added an enticing water feature: a fountain that operates on demand. Seek out the stone circle at the southeast corner of the grass (facing the harbor with the grape arbor behind you, it's on the right) and press the metal circle on one or more of the four short columns arrayed around the edge. Each one starts a timed plume of water. When the splashing ends, press the circle again as many times as you like.
Shopping
Two terrific new markets are brightening up the local scene. The Boston Public Market (tel. 781/893-8222; www.bostonpublicmarket.org) is the first major step in a drive for a permanent public market à la Philadelphia's or Seattle's. Open Monday and Thursday 11:30am to 7pm from July through November, it offers a tasty mix of farm products and specialty foods in an enticing location: the pedestrian-only Northern Avenue Bridge, near Atlantic Avenue and the federal courthouse (T: Red Line to South Station or Blue Line to Aquarium).
The funky, fashionable South End Open Market (tel. 617/481-2257; www.southendopenmarket.com) operates Sunday 10am-5pm from May through September in the parking lot at 540 Harrison Ave. in the South End (T: Orange Line to Back Bay). It features numerous craftspeople as well as food merchants.
The luxury jeweler Shreve, Crump & Low (tel. 800/324-0222; www.shrevecrumpandlow.com) has announced plans to move its flagship store up the street to 440 Boylston Street. The shift into the former home of FAO Schwarz was scheduled for fall 2005.
The first Boston-area branch of the legendary Penzeys spice stores is officially open at 1293 Mass. Ave., Arlington (tel. 781/646-7707; www.penzeys.com) -- and it's awesome.
The merger of the Federated and May department store chains will spell doom for the venerable New England brand Filene's. The Boston store will keep the name for a while, but suburban locations will close or become branches of Macy's. The consolidation will mean a major retail vacancy at Downtown Crossing, where Filene's and Macy's sit across the street from each other, but it doesn't affect Filene's Basement, which is part of a separate company.
Both of the major travel bookstores in the immediate Boston area have closed. Cambridge's Globe Corner Bookstore continues as a thriving online entity (www.globecorner.com) while management explores the possibility of reopening elsewhere in Harvard Square. The Rand McNally Map & Travel Store near Faneuil Hall is becoming -- say it with me -- a Starbucks.
Boston After Dark
Boston University's Agganis Arena, 925 Commonwealth Ave. (tel. 617/353-4628; www.agganisarena.com) is booking concerts as well as sporting events. The brand-new facility seats 6,300 to 7,200 people.
The FleetCenter is no more. The name, that is, not the sports and entertainment arena. On July 1, 2005, it officially became the TD Banknorth Garden, 100 Legends Way (tel. 617/624-1900; www.tdbanknorthgarden.com).
The fetish club Man-Ray has closed its Central Square location but plans to reopen in the area. Check the website (www.manrayclub.com) for updates.
Coyote Ugly has closed its Boston location. If you need your ogling chain-style, there's an option right up the street: Hooters (222 Friend St.).
Day Trips From Boston
Liberty Ride tours of Lexington and Concord (tel. 781/862-0500, ext. 702; www.libertyride.us) now operate on an extended schedule: mid-June to mid-October, daily from 10am to 5pm. Tickets are good for 48 hours.
The celebrated Gloucester Stage Company (tel. 978/281-4099; www.gloucesterstage.com) no longer depends on ocean breezes for ventilation; the East Main Street Theater is now air-conditioned.
After decades of abstention, Rockport has legalized liquor sales, which began in July 2005. Town law requires that alcohol be served with a meal.
Talk with fellow Frommer's travelers about what's new and what to do in Boston on our Massachusetts Message Boards.