Despite a recent resurgence that saw the value of the U.S. dollar drop from an average of C$1.57 during 2002 to an average of C$1.40 during 2003, the strength of the U.S. dollar against the Canadian version continues to make British Columbia a bargain for U.S. travelers. The following offers a few hints about what awaits them when they head north.
Cariboo Prospector Passenger Rail Service to Resume
Passenger rail service from North Vancouver to Prince George was suspended after BC Rail abruptly terminated the service in late 2002. The action left towns such as Prince George and popular tourist destinations such as the historic gold-rush and guest-ranch areas in central BC's Cariboo Country without rail service. More critically, the rail closure also left Whistler, the site of the 2001 Olympic Winter Games, without a rail link. With only narrow two-lane highway currently linking Vancouver to Whistler, and a boom in construction at Whistler-area resorts, car and truck traffic is frequently nightmarish between the two centers (major freeway routes are planned, but not yet complete).
After a spike in automobile accident deaths during the 2003-2004 ski season, community and government leaders are working to provide better public transport, including a resumption of the Cariboo Prospector service in the near future.
Although details are not yet public, the Cariboo Prospector will resume service in 2005 between North Vancouver and Prince George. Expect that the train will be operated as a private scenic rail service, on the model of the Rocky Mountaineer Railtour, which operates a highly successful private rail service between Vancouver and the Canadian Rockies. To monitor progress of the new rail line, check the Prince George Visitor Info Centre Web site atwww.tourismpg.com.
Mad Cow Disease in Canada
In May 2003, a single case of Bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), or mad cow disease, was discovered in Alberta. In December 2003, a Canadian-born cow slaughtered in Washington State was found to have BSE. BSE is a chronic, degenerative disorder affecting the central nervous system of cattle, and human ingestion of BSE-infected beef has been linked to the occurrence of a similar and fatal degenerative disease in humans called Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease. In cattle, it is normally spread through ingestion of feed contaminated with bovine carcass derivatives such as bonemeal.
The proteins that cause BSE occur only in organ and spinal tissue, and aren't present in muscle tissue which make up common cuts such as steaks, roasts and hamburger. To be extra safe -- in both the U.S. and Canada -- stay away from organ meats and meat products that might include spinal membranes.
For travelers who had planned on enjoying famed Canadian beef during a trip to Canada, the question presents itself: Is it safe to eat Canadian beef while in Canada? In almost all cases, eating beef in Canada presents no more health risk than eating beef in the U.S. -- in fact, Canadian-grown beef is currently available in the U.S. The U.S. and Canada have had identical policies to prevent the occurrence and transmission of BSE since 1997, which means that only cattle born before that date would have had the occasion to eat infected feed. Nearly all beef in the human food chain is derived from cattle less than three years of age.
Myra Canyon Trestles Rebuild Set for 2005
The catastrophic central BC wildfires of 2003 destroyed millions of acres of forest, plus burned hundreds of homes and business. However, few landmarks were grieved as widely as the Myra Canyon Trestles (www.great-trails.com/myracanyon.shtml), built in the 1910s as part of the Kettle Valley Railroad. In the 1990s, sections of the abandoned rail line were converted to a hiking and mountain bike trail. The most popular rails-to-trails byway was Myra Canyon, where 18 historic wood trestles spanned chasms and edged around cliffs.
However, the wildfires of 2003 destroyed 14 of the 18 trestles. After the smoke cleared, local leaders called for the rebuilding of the trestles, as the popularity of the Myra Canyon trail had grown markedly in recent years; Myra Canyon mountain bikers alone contributed an estimated C$3 million annually to the local economy. In 2004, the Myra Canyon trail will reopen, but will detour around the former trestles on forest service roads. The province has pledged C$15 million to rebuild 12 of the burned trestles; about half will be rebuilt in summer 2004, with the remainder completed in 2005. At that point, the original trail will reopen to hikers and mountain bikers.
Banff & Lake Louise
Storm Mountain Lodge, built in 1922 as a Canadian Pacific Railroad camp, had a long history as a rustic, high-altitude lodging that featured accommodations in period log cabins. That changed in 2003 when new owners brought the property. They kept all the charm of the vintage cabins while updating their comfort and amenities. The Storm Mountain Lodge, Boc 3249, Banff, AB, T1L 1C8 (tel. 403/762-4155, fax 403/762-4151; www.stormmoutainlodge.com), offers 14 cabins just 20 minutes from Banff and Lake Louise, and an hour east of Radium Hot Springs, at the crest of Vermillion Pass in Banff National Park. The charmingly renovated cabins contain claw-foot bathtubs, down duvets, pine bedsteads, and rock fireplaces. The lodge restaurant specializes in Alberta beef, game and Rocky Mountain cuisine.
Remodeling is the word at resorts in the Canadian Rockies. The much-loved Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise (tel. 800/441-1414; www.fairmont.com/lakelouise) recently added a number of rooms to its already sumptuous array of accommodations. Its fellow Fairmont Banff Springs (tel. 800/441-1414; www.fairmont.com/banffsprings) finished a multimillion-dollar renovation of its already renowned Willow Stream Spa. And the Deer Lodge (tel. 800/661-1595; www.crmr.com) at Lake Louise is scheduled to undergo massive upgrading and renovations over the winters of 2004 and 2005.
Calgary
The finest hotel in Calgary, The Fairmont Palliser (tel. 800/441-1414; www.fairmont.com/palliser), is a landmark historic hotel that's looking even spiffier after undergoing a C$30-million (US$21.6 million) renovation, which installed new carpets, upholstery, and furniture throughout.
The city's newest hotel, the Sheraton Suites Calgary (tel. 888/784-8370; www.sheraton.com), offers striking, modern rooms with quality furniture, and an excellent location just north of central downtown.
Cranbrook
The St. Eugene Mission Resort (tel. 888/778-5050; www.deltahotels.com) in Cranbrook fully opens in 2004. The resort, which includes a highly praised golf course, casino, First Nation's cultural center, and a luxury hotel operated by Delta Hotels, is noteworthy as it's built on the grounds of a historic Indian residential school and mission. The old mission buildings are incorporated into the resort, with a number of luxury suites now found in the old residential school itself. The resort is owned by the Ktunaxa Kinbasket band.
The Okanagan Valley
The summer of 2003's wildfire season in British Columbia witnessed the fiery destruction of trestles and rail lines on the historic Kettle Valley Railroad in the Okanagan Valley. This turn-of-the-20th-century, 174km (108-mile) rail line was constructed to link mining operations in the remote and rugged canyons above Lake Okanagan. In the 1990s, the deserted line underwent a rails-to-trails conversion and became popular as a biking and hiking destination. However, many of the line's historic trestles and bridges burned, forcing the closure of the trail. Local officials and business leaders are seeking funds to rebuild the rail line.
Vancouver
Formerly the Ouest, the newly redecorated and renamed West (tel. 604/738-8938), excels at producing intriguing combinations of French and Pacific Northwest cuisine. Vancouver Magazine's 2003 Restaurant of the Year offers top-quality ingredients and superb service.
The Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre's (tel. 604/659-FISH; www.vanaqua.org) just-opened Tropic Zone showcases a breathtaking array of colorful tropical fish from all over the world, including an ultra rare collection of seahorses.
Poet's Cove at Bedwell Harbour (tel. 888/512-7638; www.poetscove.com) finally opens in 2004. This upscale resort on a remote harbor on South Pender Island includes a marina, health center, restaurant, spa, and luxury-level accommodations. The resort has been under construction for nearly a decade. The new destination resort promises to be the largest tourist development in all the Gulf Islands.
Out on the Pacific Coast, The Wickaninnish Inn, Osprey Lane at Chesterman Beach (tel. 800/333-4604 or 250/725-3100; www.wickin.com), has had such success in attracting guests with its combination of summer beach walks and winter-storm-watching that it's virtually doubling in size. Careful attention is being paid, however, to ensure the new complex blends in as seamlessly with the wild west coast as the old.
Victoria
The most popular day trip out of Victoria, the Saanich Peninsula's world-renowned Butchart Gardens (tel. 250/652-5256; www.butchartgardens.com) celebrates its 100th anniversary in 2004. Numerous events have been scheduled throughout the year to mark the event, and a special anniversary tea will be offered in the gardens' restaurant.
Whistler
With the news that Vancouver had been selected as the site of the 2010 Olympicand Paralympic Winter Games, construction cranes again began to rise above Whistler. The ski resorts on Whistler and Blackcomb peaks will play host to the Olympic alpine events; in preparation for a surge of visitors, new hotels and tourist facilities are shooting up in and around Whistler Village, the dining and lodging center of the ski area. New highways are also under consideration to link Whistler to Vancouver, replacing winding and overcrowded Highway 99, also known as the Sea-to-Sky Highway (which is currently being widened as part of a massive renovation project).
The exclusive Four Seasons hotel and resort chain is opening a new resort in Whistler's Upper Village. Four Seasons Resort -- Whistler, 4591 Blackcomb Way, Whistler, BC, V0N 1B4 (tel. 800/545-4000, 604/935-3400, fax, 1604/935-3455; www.fourseasons.com/whistler), will offer 273 guest rooms, suites and townhouses, all with fireplaces, and balconies or patios. In addition to luxury level rooms, the resort features Fifty Two 80 Bistro serving fresh BC seafood, a full service spa, outdoor heated pool, and a fitness center. The resort is slated to open in late summer 2004.
The municipality of Whistler is working with a local Internet service provider V-Link Solutions to offer wireless high speed Internet service throughout the Whistler Village and resort area. When "Yodel," the 802.11b network service, is completed in late 2004, it will offer wireless Internet links to all areas in greater Whistler, including over 100 hotels and 6,500 guest rooms. To access Yodel will cost C$10 (US$7.20) per day.
The culture and history of local Squamish and Lil'wat First Nations will be featured at a new cultural center to open in Whistler in 2005. The center will feature a museum, crafts market, theater, restaurant, and art gallery. The design will also include a First Nations village, interpretive trails and a ceremonial gathering area. The center will be located on 1.6 hectares (4 acres) of public land across from the Fairmont Chateau Whistler.