Things are looking up in Buenos Aires. The economy continues to improve, much of it because of people like you are coming to visit. More tourists have come than were predicted, according to the National Tourism Office. Fast on all of this, though, are the sly and smart Porteños, who know that all of this means they'll have to do even more to impress you than ever before. Travel agents continue to expand their offerings, with new and great add-ons, hotels are finishing room renovations, and completely new ones are opening up, bring even more rooms online for travelers who come to this fantastic city. The national and city tourism boards are also continuing to spend money on improving tourism, creating more pamphlets and maps on various themes. In addition, tourism is creating more gentrification pressures in the south of the city, in San Telmo and in La Boca, meaning that formerly dodgy zones are getting safer to wander around in, though caution should be advised at night. Even with all these improvements and changes, you'll still find the city to be an incredible bargain. And though there are more of you visiting than ever before, the locals are still welcoming you with open arms.
I am always headed to Buenos Aires, so I will continue to look out for more new things that are going on in this exciting and wonderful. Like any great metropolis, it's always changing, and as more and more tourists come, many new offerings will be reported on.
Recent News
We had reported in the book about a terrible tragedy that occurred in Buenos Aires on December 30, 2004: a dance club fire left about 200 people dead. At the time that the book was being written, all dance clubs were closed while mass inspections and new procedures for fire safety and inspection were put into place. We can report that most things are back to normal. You will find, however, better lit fire exits and a greater concern for safety than before. In addition, clubs are better about listing their contact information, something most were reluctant to do. For instance, Opera Bay, one of the city's most popular clubs, located in Puerto Madero, now has a public information number, tel. 11/4315-8666.
Getting There
New York City-based Borello Travel, owned by Argentine native Sandra Borello, has added services to their core Buenos Aires trips. Soft luxury extensions, like Andean horseback riding options and new Brazilian destinations can be added. Sandra is an excellent resource for travelers. (7 Park Ave South Suite 21; tel. 800/811-6027 or 212/686-4911; www.borellotravel.com)
Airlines
LanChile has changed its name from when the book went to print, but continues the same great service. As they have expanded all over South America, they now simply call themselves LAN. Connections to Buenos Aires via Santiago, Chile for North America, Europe and Australia (tel. 866/435-9526 or 11/4378-2222; www.lan.com).
Aerolineas Argentinas has changed its services, moving its flights and planes around. There are now only two flights a week connecting Buenos Aires and New York City, but Miami service and Madrid service have increased. In addition, because many deals were made between Argentina and China during the writing of this book, Aerolineas Argentinas has made new flight patterns connecting South America with Asia through Europe. The world is changing (tel. 800/333-0276 in the U.S., 0810/222-86527 in Buenos Aires, or 1800/22-22-15 in Australia; www.aerolineas.com.ar).
Where To Stay
New hotels and new renovations are really the big news in Buenos Aires. Unfortunately, the expected opening of the Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, which will be in the old Palacio Duhau, and an adjacent new specially constructed high rise, has been delayed a few months. The new opening is in December, not September as reported in the book (Avenida Alvear 1661, 1014 Buenos Aires; tel. 11-5171-1234; www.parkhyatt.com).
The Four Seasons has completed its low-key renovation and upgrading to bring the hotel, once a Park Hyatt a few years back, closer in line with other Four Seasons properties around the world. You'll still find impeccable service throughout (Posadas 1086/-88, 1011 Buenos Aires; tel. 800/819-5053 in the U.S. and Canada or 11/4321-1200; www.fourseasons.com).
The renovations and expansions at the NH Florida have also been completed. Now this hotel, once an office building, looks more like home away from home than ever before. It's still the closest for shoppers who cannot get enough of Galerias Pacifico (San Martín 839; 1004 Buenos Aires. tel. 11/4321-9850; www.nh-hotels.com).
The upgrades at the Hotel Castelar, the historical hotel associated with literary genius Lorca, have now been finished, but this also means that all prices across the board are about $6 to 10 higher than reported in the book (Av. de Mayo 1152, 1085 Buenos Aires; tel. 11/4383-5000; www.castelarhotel.com.ar).
Where To Dine
Tons of excellent places to eat exist all over Buenos Aires, with beef as the centerpiece. That as a whole has not changed, but one of the very best places to eat in Buenos Aires has closed. Catalinas Restaurant, a parilla that we listed as a "don't miss," was at Reconquista 850 in the Microcentro. According to my sources in the travel industry and in the tourism offices in Buenos Aires, it seems that one of the business partners had died and so the chef/owner Ramiro Rodriguez Pardo decided to simply close down. If we get any more updates on this once incredible place, we will keep you posted in future editions. In the meantime, there are parillas all over town that are certain to impress.
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